• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.92-104
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• 2005

This study aimed to reveal the concept and background of emergence of black leather jacket that began appearing in full-scale among youth sub-culture from 1950's, and to research its styles and aesthetic features on the basis of that. The researcher has intended to a theoretical frame to recreate black leather jacket which has been developing in youth sub-culture style as a resource of new design in modern fashion trend through this study There are 5 styles of black leather jacket in youth sub-culture after 1950's. Firstly, biker style black leather jacket showed ruined war heroes substituting for military uniform. Secondly, rocker style black leather jacket brought the conversion in definition of masculinity. Thirdly, greaser style black leather jacket showed the beauty of uncleanness expressing resistance and violence with tattered dirty materials and excessive metal ornaments. Fourthly, headbanger style black leather jacket was prominent in various and compound decoration due to combination of rocker and hippie features. fifthly, punk style black leather jacket was influenced greatly by Sex Pistols. There are broadly three ecstatic features oi black leather jacket among youth sub-culture. With regard to displaying terrorism, black leather jacket displayed threatening aspects with black color, formative beauty of inverted triangle, additional decoration, and animal & brutal feelings. Paradoxical trophyism showed Nihilism, disorder, and resistance through black color that symbolize bad luck and unstability, trophyism with bad flavor, tattered material effect, and destructive message painting. Masculine eroticism appeared in accordance with pursuing after pleasure and masculine sexuality through exposure of buttocks and focused penis due to jacket's short length, and fetish of black.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.181-188
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• 2005

This study attempted to investigate the plastic characteristics of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion in the cyber punk movies in order to inquire into how the influence of the cyber punk taking the lead in the spiritual culture and way of life of the humankind in the 21th century would be expressed in fashion. For this purpose, it sought to analyze the beauty of new fashion creating the cyber environment and identify its contemporary meaning. An attempt was made to investigate the image of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies. As a result, the following findings were obtained: First, the image of cyber punk fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies was simplicity, which was to express the modest silhouette and details exclusive of decoration. In addition to clean and smooth gloss, it contained the modest image of resistance', not 'revolt' by borrowing the partial motive and image from existing punk fashion. The change of cyber punk fashion into the characteristic of concise, smooth external appearance brought about the restraint of its image and symbolism as well as its plastic characteristic. Second, it was characterized by the Eroticism nature of emphasizing the body line while expressing the future and modest image or exposing the body. Cyber punk fashion expressed the avant-garde image by using materials that gave a mysterious and future feelings, as well as unsymmetrical silhouette, the slit of body-conscious line, coarse cutting, the method of do-constructing and reconstructing the silhouette, the method of applying diverse underwears such as corset, brassiere and the like. Third, cyber punk fashion was marked by the nature of mined sex. It had the masculine image by using the black color containing the image of masculinity and resistance in female clothing and expressing the suit, coat and military looks giving an masculine impression. And it expressed the image of mixed sexes with the masculine image in male clothing by borrowing feminine images such as body-conscious line, widely cut neckline, floral decoration, leggings and the like. Fourth, cyber punk fashion was marked by naturalness. It was expressed as clothing made from silhouette, knit, cotton and the like in the atmosphere expressing love, comfortableness and truth. This contained the image of naturalness, a return to the primitive, that human being wanted to return to their original figure in the future element. The cyber punk movie may contain a dismal, gloomy future image on the whole, which can be overcome, and shows the possibility that it may grow into the alternative culture, not the revolting culture. The movie of 'The Fifth Element' demonstrates the meaning and role that shows the bright future image. It is thought that designers should make efforts for cyber punk fashion to perform its role in changing the gloomy future image into the bright image of society

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.431-445
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to analyze and theorize the characteristics of femme fatale in fashion illustration since 1980. The method of this study was to analyze the documentaries for theoretical studies about femme fatale and the visual characteristics in fashion illustration works since 1980. The results of this study were as follows: Femme fatale expressed in the general realm of art was icon of fatal and seductive eroticism in late 19th century. She is composed of diverse images like mythology, exoticism, fear and sensuality. The characteristics of her image in fashion illustration were expressed into de-body image by union of animal and female body, or machine and female body, duplicity of death and sexuality, sexual decadence or abnormality and powerful masculine taste. First, de-body image by union of animal and female body, or machine and female body was expressed in transformed mythical image or bizarre and demonic image, grotesque image linked by picture of female body and painting of animal image, and cyborg image linked by machine and realistic female body by digital media. Second, duplicity of death and sexuality was expressed in juxtaposition by sexual pose, body and something metaphorical and symbolic depiction and de-constructive depiction of death. Third, sexual decadence or abnormality was expressed in fetishistic style, obscene depiction of cheap and hedonistic sexuality, masochistic depiction like antisocial and diseased sex appeal. Forth, powerful masculine taste was expressed in man's face, body, pose, masculine fashion, man's role related to crime and threatening weapon, etc. As mentioned above, femme fatale in fashion illustration was expressed in diverse images by fashion illustrator's point of view. Although she was originated by men's fantastic vision, she brings a catharsis to human being. And she is also recognized as new paradigm and positive cultural sign in our times.