• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.293-312
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• 1997

Deconstructionism is a philosophical stream in the latter half of 20'th century which goes against western metaphysics and tries to deconstruct the dualism e.g. eastern/west-ern man/woman. Its main concepts are 'indi-vidual' 'other' 'difference' 'restoration of the repressed' 'decentralization' 'Today it shows strong influences in literature art, and other social fields. This study investigated inner meanings and exterior forms represented in clothing on the base of Jacques Derrida's theory in order to re-search modes of deconstruction in is. And it compared clothing with architecture among other genres of art in order to discover similarities between through and modes of art in a certain period. For illuminating concept of deconstruction I referred to the literatures of preceding studies and for deconstruction's characteristics in both clothing and architec-ture I referred work's collection book $\ulcorner$collec-tions$\lrcorner$ and other related books dealing from 1960's to this point. As a rsult there are four modes of decons-truction in both clothing and architecture as follows; 1) Differenance which is a concept of the dif-ference in time and space as being trace. 2) In termeaning of meanings which is not present in reality but re-interpreted a new in the future. 3) Interxtuality in which a texte is not alone but with others 4) Dis.De phenomenon in which distortion and fragmentation forms occur as the result of the denial of perfection and reson. There are characteristics of modes of de-construction in clothing as follows; 1) Differance; R.Gigli, P. Rabanne. G.Bersace, V.Westwood are representatives of the cloth-ing which is combined with the past the pres-ent and the future or is re-viewed as the clothing of the past in the present point of view. J. Watanabe R. Dawakubo I miyake are representatives of the clothing which is out-date but re-viewed in the sense of recollec-tion and re-usage. 2) Intermeaning of meanings: R. kawakubo I, Miyake Y,Yamamoto are representatives of the clothing which is incomplete but re-interpreted in the future and appears to be new-fashioned according to ways of bnding wearing throwing on and tying J.C. Castel-bajac K.Hamnett S.Sprouse are representa-tives of the clothing which is made up of ab -stract forms scribbling or symbolic letters which appears to be different according to view-point of observers. 3) Intertextuality ;J.P.Gaultier K.Hamnett, Comme des Gar ons are representatives of intertextuality of gender which avoids the 여-ality of man/woman J.P Gaultier G,Versace J. galliano are representatives of the intertex-tuality of time place and occasion which mixes temporality extensity and purposiveness. J.P Gaultier G,Versace are representatives of the intertextuality of coordination which combines items different in image purpose and use. P.Rabanne A,Courr ges R,Gernreic I,Miyake are representatives of the intertextuality of mat-ter which uses heterogeneous matter different from cloth. 4) Dis.De-phenomenon: R, Kawakubo I.Mi-yake J.P.Gaultier are representatives of the de-composition which discloses distortion and exag-geration of form through destructing the estab-lished way of construction J.Galliano R.Kawa-kubo Devota Y Lomba arte representatives of the decentring which restores the repressed and the alienated on the one hane and shows front-centrality on the other. Comme des Gar ones is representative of the discontinuity because of which right and left up and down are not in har-mony with one another. J,Galliano J.P,Gaultier T,Mugler are representatives of the disruption by way of which one makes one's body exposed through intentional slashes or holes. As a consequence deconstructionism enabled us to investigate similarities between through of deconstruction and modes of art interms of diffrance Intermeaning of meanings intertextuality and Dis De-phenomenon. And we found that deconstruction was a phase of development in that it as a all-comprising and multiple concept tries to pursue the new through deconstruction.

• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.221-232
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• 1995

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.195-207
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to observe the rapidly changing men's fashion style in the contemporary society and to analyze the features related to the major-subject groups, male university students. This information could be used for clothing companies to plan commodities, divide markets, and develop designs. The results are as follows. First, several opinions were varied among students' majors. For the opinion about the male students focusing on their external appearance, the students from all majors said that it depends on individual preference. For 4 reasons of external appearances, students from all majors frequently said that they should adjust their external appearance for employment. For the opinion about what is considered the most in the purchase of clothing, most of the students considered about the design of the cloth. For the opinion about influences on the purchase of clothing, major of the students were influenced by their friend or colleague. on the other hand, the students from artistic talent and physical education mentioned other opinion that it depends that it depends on situation and own intention is most important. Second, for the question about clothing behavior, with regard to monthly average shopping control expense, the students from all majors mentioned the amount less than KRW 50,000. For the opinion about the number of shopping, most student mentioned once a season. For the opinion about the store to purchase dress, most students mentioned the use of large shopping mall but the students from business administration and economy mentioned the use of discount store. Third, for the question about preferred style and preferred brand, with regard to the opinion about usual style, the students from all majors have worn casual style. For the opinion about the preferred style, most students mentioned casual style. For the opinion about man's accessory wearing, the students from all majors mentioned that it is good and for the opinion about coordination item, most students mentioned bag.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1979

This is a study on angels' costumes in religious paintings, especially as this relates to the questions of concepts and theological symbolism. Angels, as spiritual creatures in Christian thought, play the role of praising God's glory, as messengers of God, the role of guarding Israel and the Church, and protecting or punishing human beings. Sometimes the angels appear in incarnate form. They display no sexual differences and are not able to procreate. The angels' funtional classification being thus; nevertheless, they are pictured in various costumes and appearances according to characteristics of the paintings. The angel Michael appears as a man of dignity when pictured as a guard; the angel Gabriel in the annunciation is often portrayed as a woman of mystical beauty. Under the Renaissance, the mighty cherubim and seraphim at Yahweh's throne are degraded as plump child-angels, or winged child-heads looking alike Eros or Cupid. They have become playful and all too obviously non-heavenly chrubs, accepted features of the Temple decorations. However, cherubim are often depicted as naked or wrapped around with a piece of cloth and accompanied with wind, which symbolizes the Glory of God. The angels, costumes without seam are hung over or wrapped around the body, and when sewn they are simple and ample enough that they fall in a great many folds. However, by the 14C. angels are mostly dressed in costumes common to all Europe, and after that angels gradually appear in folk costumes; for example Italian, Flemish, etc. Dalmatic, the typical costume of Byzantine often shows up as angels' dresses even after the period. Originally the dalmatic was the Roman tunic to which Eastern influences added. The Roman clavus on the tunic had gradually lost distinction until, by the Imperial epoch, it was worn by the lowest servants. It was proudly therefore, as 'The servants of God', that the early Christians are shown wearing the clavus on their wide, ungirdled, sleeved dalmatics. In addition to their costume, angels have some other distinct charateristics. First, angels have a halo around their head; this symbolizes their holiness. Second, angels wear a narrow diadem or a queen's crown that seems to denote their glorious status close to God's throne. Third, the cloth band across the breast resembles a priest's stole, which suggests the sacred role of a priest and symbolizes the grace santified. Fourth, lilies in the annunciations are symbols of Mary's virginity. chastity, innocence and heavenly bliss. Angels hold palms or olives in their hands. The former denote prosperity. beauty and the Christians' reward after death; the latter represent peace and amity. the imperial crown made of olives means victory. Fifth, angels in paintings always have a pair of wings, which can be traced to scripture where cherubim and seraphim are described as having pairs of wings. Angels' wings often have colors of the rainbow, and the rainbow is compared to God's glory. Sixth, generally artists paint angels' costumes as white, blue, green, gold and purple. Other colors such as red rarely appear. According, to scriptures it is believed that angels should be depicted 'as white as snow'. According to the biblical expressions of angels as lightning, sun or a pillar of fire, angels should be described as creatures of light. Nevertheless being a form of art, religious paintings may differ in their presentation according to an artist's inspiration and intention. Since religious paintings illustrated above were almost all done before the Reformation, symbols of colors used in the Catholic Church will also be mentioned. The white color symbolizes chastity, purity, brightness, delight and divinity. Green represents new birth, eternal life, spiritual revival and the expectance of the grace of God. Blue, the color of sapphires, denotes chastity and truth. Red, the color of rubies, represents divinity, love and religious passion. Violet is the color of dignity, indicating the sovereign, royal or imperial power and the great Sacrifice of Christ. As mentionad above, angels' costumes were expressed in accordance with contemporary patterns or as indicated in the Bible, and accesories and colors correspond with Christian symbols. Therefore these facts should be taken into consideration when it comes to the study of costume history.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.93-101
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• 1998

Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.205-224
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• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the thirty pictures of Bud-dha to hang on the wall among the existing Buddist paintings. The costume to study were made about 64 years during the King Chung-yol(1286) to the King Chung-jong(1350) which style was mostly related in Won Dynasty. 가) Men's wear ; 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan Kun and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knot-s, and tied up with a hair ribbon, A kinds of Kuan-mo were Mine-lu-kuan Yuan-yu-kuan, Nong-kuan, Hae-chi-kuan Pok-du Yun-wha-kuan Yip-mo- and Tu-ku(Helmeto) 2. clothes ; 1) Colour of Koryo King's Mien-ku Kuan costume was not agree with blue and reddish black colour which was used in Yo, Song, Kum and Won Dynasty, however black and greenhish blue colour was agreed with. 2) The king wore T'ung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and the government officials wore Chin-hien-kuan Hae-chi-kuan and Nong-kuan as a court dress. In general the king and the Crown Prince wore a hats which was used in T'ung-t'ien system however sometimes they wore small hats which was cited in literature. 3) Gate guard and upper garment wore colourful costume figured gold colour pattern which was distin-gtive costume system of Koryo. 4) A monk wore big sleeve long skirt big sleeve long jacket long skirt and shoulder scar-f full shoulder scarf or right hand shoulder opened scarf. 5) The Soldiers wore helmet shoulder or scarf pee-back hung-kap, pok-kap, yang-dan-g-kap we-yu-kap kun-kap, and boots and they carried arms. 6) The young boys wore scarf, loin cloth, long skirt, belt neckless, wan-silk, boots and foots wear and wristless. 나) Women's wear ; 1. Hair style and hairs and tied up with a hair ribbon and wore precious ston decorated hair dress wheel shape hair dress pan shaped head dress handkerchif covered hair dress decorated precious stone hair pin silk chippon made of head dress muf-fler shaped hairdress. Boots mocasin hae lee, suk and sandle wored as a shoes depends on the classes. They wore neckless, earing wres-tless and wan-pu-sik. 2. Closthe 1) High rank lade's wore un-kyun attached jacket and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated long skirt apron back apron knot belt, scarf this type is the same with Dang Dynasty five dynasty of china Song, Kum Won, Myung Dynasty and our cos-tume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dynasty.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.85-90
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• 1999

A shroud is clothes for giving a dead person a bath and being finely dressed:though our routine clothes have been western, putting on a shroud has been kept comparatively well as a tradition of a conventional ceremony garments. This study is about the current using of dressing a shroud, and for presenting foundations of a way about dressing a shroud in order to make the most of this by everyone, therefore this research will be worthwhile to preserve the traditional custom of giving a dead person a bath and being finely dressed. 1. We must confirm the death of a person before we do Su-Si for controlling rightly a corse. Su-Si is ways of changing a clean clothes after bathing the dead person, tieing up hands, feet and ankles with a string, filling up a mouth, a nose and ears with a wad of cotton, laying down the dead person with his head toward east, and setting up a screen after covering the dead person with a bed sheet. 2. Here are processes of putting on a shroud. After the day of death, first of all, you must untie the string to control rightly a corpse, take off the clothes, and give a dead man a bath. You trim the dead person's fingernails and toenails, put them in O-nang, then put his hands and feet in five pouches, finally put feet in korean socks and wrap with Ak-su. You put a underwear in a overwear in order to put on the clothes easily, and then put on an upper garments after putting on trousers. And put on Sb-sin After you wash the dead person's face and his hair, you put gems and raw rice in his mouth, wrap head with cotton fabrics, and put hairs into five pouches, then put on a headgear which is filled with five pouches. 3. You tie up with hem cloth the dead person dressed a shroud after wrapping with Dae-ryum-km and So-ryumkm. 4. After you encoffin the dead person, you weave coffin strings with cotton fabrics in order to lift up the coffin easily, and lay down a red fabrics having white letters about the dead person's name or social position onto the coffin, then cover the coffin with a coffin cover : finally you leave the coffin at the former place and set up screen.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.