• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.29-47
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• 1995

Today, we live in the fastly changing society, rapidly developing scientific civilization and repeatly confusing political culture. Therefore, man persuits the emotional rest in "eros" and sympathizes with eroticism. Such an eroticism represents too much in art and costume all over the world. the purpose of this study is to classify the ex-pressive style of eroticism which is the feature of the costume in the first year of 1990's and to analyze its expression meaning. This study will be a basic data of new design development and help predict the costume in the latter half of the yeat. The method of this study was performed by using the literature related to the eroticism and the study of preceeding researchers. To analyze the costume style the its implied meaning being used to express the eroticism of 1990's, the magazines(Elle, Vogue, WWD, Collections etc) and the literatures related to fashion were used. The styles and meaning of eroticism expressed eroticism by using the minimal design which exposes wholly or partly by using a transparent vinyl and a see-through clothing. The sexy style arose from the expression of social rebellion and the exposure of suppressive sex as a psychological repulsion against the older generation. 2) Deshabille style : This style is the conver-sion to the outer garment of an underwear. The excessive exposure which just concerns the inti-mate parts of the body by using the thin cloth or lace for an underwear. This style can be recognized as the beauty destruction and ugly 3) Glamour style : The style is made up of the high-grade cloth such as silk and velvet and expresses the bodily beauty. This style falls into a rebellious culture and comes from the inten-tional expression to escape the modern life which is straight and hard. 4) metallic style : This style uses variously the new material such as vinyl-coating, enamel and represents the eroticism through the original expressions.pressions.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.161-170
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• 1999

In the East color is deeply related to man's feelings or emotional status. This is relevant to the peculiar naturalistic thoughts of the East and concretely speaking is based upon the idea of Yin Yang and Five Elements that has dominated the spiritual world of the East. We can see costumes of the Three Kingdoms era or Koryo dynasty on the murals of ancient tomb presume their social backgrounds through remains of the past and find out the existence of Saekdong. Chosun dynasty shows a wonderful growth of fashion not only in dress but also in such accessories as patchwork wrapping-cloth and Saekdong which imply a lot on formation or color arrangement. Saekdong which we can see throughout many Eastern countries is a representative image that has been forming and expressing our race's color emotions for a long time. Saekdong to become worldwidely used. And this study has attempted modernistic expressions with Saekdong.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.1-16
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• 1999

This study in concerned with the costume accessories appeared in Sam Kuk Sa ki. The accessories of both sexes were analized. Results of this research can be summarized as follows : It was appeared that names of accessories of men were fewer in number than those of women. Men\`s accessories such as a hat, bok-du, a belt,boots, shoes, and sock were mentioned in Sam Kuk Sa Ki. Women\`s accessories appeared such as a hat, a comb, a hair pin, a belt, shoes, and sock. A bok-du, boots, and a hared belt were used exclusively by men, while a hat, kwan(冠), a comb, a hair pin, a scarf, pyo( ) were worn exclusively by women. All men from different classes including true bone class as well as the common class wore bok-du, a hat, a hard belt, boots, sock ; however, class distinctions were made from materials used for those items. Also women\`s accessories were used as means of differentiating social status of the wearer by means of materials employed for each item. Especially, woman\`s hat and scarf were a symbol of the noble class. Only two classes of women from the true-bone class and women from the sixth du-pum class entited to wear hats. Wearing a scarf was not allowed to women from the common class. Class dirrernetiations were made by the materials used for hats and scarves. Materials for a scarf such as gold and silver leaf, pecock tail, and king fisher fly feather were restricted to women from true-bone class. Such as man\`s hat bok-du( 頭), use of women\`s comb and hair pin, scarf, leggings were items drived from Tang China. It clearly showed that costume accessories of Silla were heavily influenced by the Chinese. At the same time the costume accessories were sued to make sex difference among the people of Silla. Woman wore a soft belt made of cloth while man wore a hard belt. Woman\`s hat, a scarf, a comb, a hair pin, a belt or sash for a shirt, and leggings were woman\`s sex symbol. Thus, costume accessories of Silla appeared in Sam Kum Sa Ki functioned as means of differentiating social status of the wearer such as sex,class and rank in the society. Also, they showed that Silla kingdom had close cultural relationship with Tang China.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.124-136
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• 2009

This Study is on the Punggongyubodoryake. Punggongyubodoryak was the records and pictures written by Ohgyeongmun(吳景文, Painter) and Gangbonpungeon(岡本豊彦, a Japanese painter, 1773~1745). in 1832. Those records and pictures were about the gifts which Korea's King(宣祖, 1567-1608) sent to Doyotomi Hideyosi(豊臣秀吉, Pungsinsugil) in 1590. Most of the gifts were of the Korean costume, which meant that Korea recognized Doyotomi Hideyosi as the new general of Japan, Tokugawa Shogunate(幕府將軍). The pictures of every Clothing in punggongyubodoryake described forms of every cloth and delineated ornamental patterns and sizes of clothing as closely as actual, they were clothes of the Middle period of Chosun. the author of the study inferred that it would be one of the impotent materials in the history of the Korean traditional costume. Among the clothes, there were several danryeongs(단령, ceremonial coat), okgwan (玉冠 woman headdress with) and paeok(佩玉, pendents with jade stings) and choongdan(中單 ceremonial undercoat) and Sang(裳, ceremonial Skirts for man), gyeontongsuseulran (肩通袖膝襕, chinese coat) was recorded in punggongyubodoryake. they were not a set of clothes for ceremonial costume but a mixture of men's and women's costume, of korean and abroad styles. the author inferred that this phenomenon was actually a good proof that the gifts were sent to Hideyosi only as courtesy, which meant for downgrading the receiver.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.68-84
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• 2006

The aim of this study is to examine a structure of trousers worn by males in the western world during the 17th and 18th centuries in order to understand the characteristics of evolution in construction. it mainly examined engravings from these era because they provided me fine and detailed portrayals of what it needed to observe. Then, it classified them into models according to each era. it supplemented a flaw of depending on single type of studying material by examining other types of historical materials such as historical paintings and documents for comparative analysis of materials and decorations and previous studies on preserved historical documents to observe the examples of structures of trousers. Secondly, it studied both historical documents and previous studies on the trousers patterns used back in those days, analyzed the characteristics of each designing method by actually draping these patterns, and observed the differences in these completed patterns to understand the characteristics of changes in fashion design skill. As for the changes in length, these patterns show only a slight difference around above and below the knee line. However, the widths of waist, hip, girth and hem were significantly altered over the years to reduce wrinkles and the cutting lines became more refined to make the clothes fit to the body. As a result, a simple but fine patterning technique was born. In particular, new methods in cutting and sewing were invented for detailed parts such as waist, pocket, front and slit.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.10-20
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• 2003

The object of this research is to develop the designs with aesthetics and function for making the uniforms of specialty restaurants of Korean dishes in pursuit of the image of excellent dignity and its result is as follows: As for designs, this research chose the traditional image as the basic concept and made visual Korean lines, colors, and patterns. As for lines, it made visual the curve of the eaves, the straight line of polls, and the fret of windows and doors represented in architecture and applied them, as for color tones, it chose traditional 'Obangsaek', five direction colors. As for the patterns, it symbolized 4 trigrams( Geon, Gon, Gam, and Yi), the cloud pattern, also it tried to get the formative beauty from traditional patchwork wrapping cloth and windows and doors. The expectant effects on the design of Uniform are as follows: First, it offered basic clothes for male and female employees working in the hall and suggested two kinds of skirt and pants for the latter. It tried to find out both the function of pants and the female beauty of skirts by wrapping on pants to eliminate the feeling of rejection towards the style of them, the use of which have been recognized for man only in spite of many merits of them. Second, it sought for the characteristics of shape on collar, breast-tie, and fold etc. of Korean clothes and designed clothes according to each employee's role and finally emphasized their traditional aesthetics.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.

• 동아시아식생활학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.53-75
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• 1991

To examine the main party of royal family in the Man Kyong Jeon, the authors analyzed“Jin Chan Eui Gue”, which is a historical record published in 1887(King Go-Jong). The results obtained from the study were as follows, 1. The dining tables were divided into two:fixed arranging tables(131) and taking-away tables. 2. Food and flowers were distributed to the 1238 attendants. 3. According to the status or class of the attendants, the pattern or size of table settings were differentiated in the kinds of food, hights of food, flowers china ware etc. 4. The seat of the King's Grand Mother was located facing the south. 5. Red silk table cloth was used in the main party. 6. At the main party for the King's Grand Mother, dishes were arranged in the following sequence, the first line : cakes made of flour, oil and honey etc. the second : oil and honey pastry the third : fruits the fourth : rice cake etc. the fifth : cooked meat and fried fish etc. the sixth : sliced raw fish and beverage etc. the seventh : noodles, soup and soy bean sauce the eighth : spoon and chopsticks. 7. In the arrangements of tables for the King's Grand Mother, the heights of food on the dishes were as following level, a dish : 1 chok and 5 chon (1척 5촌) 27 dishes : 1 chok and 3 chon (1척 5촌) 7 dishes : 1 chok. (1척)

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.59-82
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• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.