• 연구논문집
• /
• 통권22호
• /
• pp.75-83
• /
• 1992

The beating motion of a high speed shuttleless loom is driven by cams. Two cams become one system and their shaft laid across each other. Moreover, the shape of the cams is very complex and requires high precision for successful weft insertion and good interlacing with warp yarn. The iterative contact method is developed for use in design and analysis of the driving mechanism of a disk type cam with oscillating roller follower. The optimum design is performed by utilizing a CAD program, DISKCAM. The 8th order polynomial is selected to interpolate the desired shape trajectory of the cam, the optimal shape of the cams is defined based on the demension of the follower. The kinematic motion of the beating cam mechanism is investigated. The phase angle is determined to achive harmonious cam motions

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제16권5호
• /
• pp.48-53
• /
• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Textec and Vamatex looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties using KES-FB system according to warp and weft tension differences. Fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^{\circledR$-Panter rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and P1001es rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd., respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position. The relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• 한국정밀공학회지
• /
• 제19권9호
• /
• pp.19-26
• /
• 2002

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제21권6호
• /
• pp.844-859
• /
• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제7권4호
• /
• pp.25-33
• /
• 2004

본 연구에서는 경사와 위사의 장력에 기인되는 감성 봉제용 직물의 마찰특성을 KES-FB 계측기를 이용하여 분석하였다. 직물의 마찰특성은 직물표면의 마찰계수, 마찰계수의 평균편차, 그리고 표면요철도를 측정하였다. 이들 표면특성치를 분석하기 위해서 75d/36f PET 필라멘트를 경사로 사용하고 100d/192f PET 필라멘트를 위사로 사용하여 5매 주자직 직물을 Omega와 Picanol 직기에서 각각 제직하고 이들을 같이 연결하여 염색가공 공정을 진행시켰다. 이들 가공된 직물의 직물표면특성은 제직시 측정된 경사와 위사의 장력특성과 함께 분석되어 졌으며 직물의 중앙부위와 양 셀베지 부분의 직물 위치에 따른 표면특성의 차이가 분석되어졌다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제12권3호
• /
• pp.43-55
• /
• 2010

The major advantages to use CAD System are that it reduce time and effort to manufacture products, and also can demonstrate the condition of the final product prior to the actual manufacturing process of the selected design using the simulation programs in CAD system. Specially in weave design, for use as Computer-Aided Weaving system, the complicated Dobby weave can figured out easily through calculating the complex weave plans of multi shafts. As to one of dobby weave structures, Supplementary warp is the warp threads which are in addition to the regular warps of the woven fabrics, and used for decorating the band or expressing some patterns. The purpose of this study is to research the weave design of Supplementary warp using Computer-Aided Weaving system, which is dobby weave design program of Weave Point. For performing this design study, it was researched the classified woven fabrics depending upon weaving processing, Computer-Aided Weaving system, and the characteristic of Supplementary warp fabrics. On the basis of the theoretical research, Supplementary warp was worked for the 24-shafts AVL computer dobby loom that applied to the various patterned images. The design work was done by Weave Point program of dobby weave, and simulated to fabrics before woven into the computer dobby loom. To see the visual images of fashion items, these simulated bobby fabrics were processed by three-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD system. All the patterns of the Supplementary warp in this study could be applied for decorating the fashion clothing and accessories.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제24권4호
• /
• pp.471-482
• /
• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제27권6호
• /
• pp.715-724
• /
• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• 대한기계학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 대한기계학회 2005년도 창립60주년 기념 추계 학술대회
• /
• pp.80.2-80.2
• /
• 2005

• 한국지리정보학회지
• /
• 제6권1호
• /
• pp.37-47
• /
• 2003

본 연구에서는 직기를 윈도우 상에서 컴포넌트로 설계한 후, 데이터베이스 연동 및 다양한 질의가 가능한 사용자 인터페이스를 구현하였다. 구현한 시스템은 마우스로 영역을 선택하여 선택된 컴포넌트들에 대해서만 집계 함수를 처리할 수 있는 질의 기능을 갖추고 있으며, 차트, 피벗 테이블 등 고급 집계 질의도 수행 가능하도록 함으로써, 직기 관리를 위한 의사결정 지원시스템의 역할을 수행할 수 있도록 하였다. 제안한 시스템은 현장 직기에 일시적 혹은 상존하는 문제점 등을 쉽게 파악하고, 그에 따른 적절한 대응을 가능하게 함으로써, 제직 관련업체의 생산성 향상 및 경비 절감을 위해 유용하게 활용될 수 있다.