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A Study on Traditional Costume of China's Minorities(II) - Centering Around Yunnan Province Minorities - (중국소수민족(中國少數民族)의 민족복식(民族服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究)(II) - 운남성(雲南省)의 소수민족(少數民族)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kim, Young-Sin;Hong, Jung-Min
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.65-80
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    • 1999
  • In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

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A Change of fashin IIIustration by the Ideal Type of Human Body Beauty (인체미의 이상형에 따른 패션 일러스트레이션의 변화)

  • 전경숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.28
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    • pp.65-84
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    • 1996
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.

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Classification of Sizing System for Women′s Upper Clothes According to Body Type and Age Group (성인 여성의 체형별 연령층별 상의 치수 체계)

  • 정명숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.521-529
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    • 2000
  • This paper proposed the sizing system for women's upper clothes in order to improve clothing fitness and raise the productivity. The sizing system was classified according to 5 body types and 5 age groups. The size intervals of the basic dimensions were established at regular intervals centering around their means. The size interval of stature was 8cm centering around 158cm and that of bust girth 4cm centering around 84cm and that of hip girth 4cm centering around 92cm. Frequency distribution on the size of upper clothes showed that the most frequent size were 96-96-150 in the longest-fattest type, 88-96-158 in the long-fatter type, 84-92-158 in the medium length-fat type, 84-92-166 in the Short-balanced type, and 76-88-158 and 80-88-158 in the medium length-balanced type. The number of the sizes of upper clothes, which had frequencies more than 5%, was 32 and each size was presented with waist girth, back waist length and sleeve length. The size system classified by age group had 22 cases in the early twenties, 15 cases in the late twenties, 21 cases in the early thirties, 19 cases in the late thirties, and 15 cases in the forties.

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Optical characteristics of the UV intensity distribution in a non-contact type UV photoreactor (비접촉식 자외선 반응조에서 자외선 강도 분포의 광학적 특성)

  • Jeon, Hwa-Bong;Yun, Jung-Won;Kim, Sung-Hong
    • Journal of Korean Society of Water and Wastewater
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    • v.26 no.2
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    • pp.257-264
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    • 2012
  • The concept of a non-contact type of UV disinfection system was introduced in this study. UV lamps and their quartz sleeves hang over the water surface and there is no interface between the sleeve and water. Obviously, there is no fouling. Based on optical laws and other UV distribution models, a detail mathematical model for a non-contact type UV disinfection system was developed in this study. Pathway length of UV light in a non-contact type photoreactor is longer than that in a submerged type photoreactor because the light is more refractive while passing through 3 interfaces of medium. But the pathway length passing through the water media is not significantly longer than that in a submerged type photoreactor so, the absorption of UV light by water is not significantly different from the other system. Due to the reflection effect, UV intensity is rapidly decreased as the horizontal distance from the light source is increased. The reflective attenuation in a non-contact type photoreactor is higher than that in a submerged type photoreactor. These mean that the short photoreactor is advantageous than the narrow-long photoreactor for the non-contact type photoreactor in an optical point of view.

A Study on the Changes of Shape for Children's Saenghwal Hanbok Jeogori (어린이 생활한복 저고리 형태의 변화양상에 관한 연구)

  • 정혜경;이미정
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.75-87
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    • 2003
  • The objectives of this study are to consider the shape for children's Saenghwal Hanbok and to analyze the trend up to date. Conclusions are described as follows: 1. Children's Saenghwal Hanbok was found in magazine about Hanbok from 1994. The design was various, for it was influenced by adult's Saenghwal Hanbok. From 1997, design of children's Saenghwal Hanbok was come to stay in a revival mood. 2. The Jeogori shape for children's Saenghwal Hanbok was as follows: Git was used several traditional git and western color from the initial to the recent period: Dong-Jeong was not attached in the initial period, but mostly attached with its ends sauare from 1997; Seop was not attached or transformed in the initial period, but attached in a traditional way (trapezoid-shaped) or a new way(rectangle-shaped) from 1998. The front was fastened on the right chest; the sleeves wert long or above-elbow or three quarter sleeve; Baerae was a curved shape in the initial period, but changed into a near-straight line with a slight curve; Jin-Dong line was straight for boys, but curve or not to be tot girls; Pocket was attached for boys, not attached for girls.

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Studies on Family Caregiving, Clothing and Nutrition of Disabled Elderly -(Part I) A Study on the Motor Ability Traits of the Hemiplegic Aged and their Clothing- (거동불편 노인의 가족관계와 의.식생활에 관한 연구 -(제1보) 편마비 노인의 운동능력 특성과 의생활-)

  • 김순분
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.29 no.2
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    • pp.17-34
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    • 1991
  • The purpose of this study was to find out problems which occured between clothes and motor ability traits of the hemiplegic aged. The samples were 32 hemiplegic aged men and were compared with 43 healthy aged men. Motor ability of the samples were measured by ROM test, muscle power test and finger function test(grip strength, hand's coordination, lateral pinch, 3pt. pinch). Design of the clothes consisted of 25 variables and the analysis of dressing and undressing motion consist of 10 motions of dressing and undressing dress shirts and 8 motions of trousers. The results were as follows: 1. There were significant relationship between ROM and muscle power and finger function of the hemiplegic aged(P<.001). 2. There were significant differences between the nomal side's finger function of the hemiplegic aged and that of the healthy group(P<.001). 3. The designs of clothes such as tutle neck line, long sleeve, button cuffs, fastening lace, open zipper and belt of trousers gave much difficulty to the hemiplegic when dressing and undressing. 4. The most difficult motion of dressing and undressing was fastening when dressing both dress shirts and trousers. 5. There were partly significant relationship between design of clothes and ROM, muscle power, finger function of hemiplegic aged man. 6. There were partly significant relationship between the degree of difficulty in dressing and undressing motions and ROM, muscle power, finger function of hemiplegic aged man.

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Research of the Exotic Fashion Observed in Chinese Dancing Costumes - From Han to Sui Tang Dynasty- (중국 무용 복식을 통해 본 이국적 취향의 이입 현상에 관한 연구 - 한대부터 수당대 장수의과 우의를 중심으로 -)

  • Yoon Ji-Won
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.4 s.94
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    • pp.124-137
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    • 2005
  • Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

Rest Costume Design with Traditional Image of Korea for Tourist Industry - Centering on Hotel Supply -

  • Chae, Keum-Seok
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.3
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2003
  • This study aims to recognize the value of traditional culture and to create 'Korean style rest costume' i.e. in-door clothes for comfort's purpose designed for hotel or other tourist accommodations with its own image. In so doing, national pride and identity will be exalted for Koreans, while an opportunity of cultural expose will be provided for foreigners through the symbols of Korea, which will contribute to the international introduction and representation of Korea. First, this study investigates the external characteristics in forms and structures of Korean style rest costume. Second, questionnaires regarding consciousness of Korean style rest costume and preference in design are distributed to the hotel guest and staff-both domestic and international- to be fir out. Lastly, designed rest costume representing Korean image, based on the results of the survey. Upon investigation, users and employers both preferred two piece style which is separated to upper garment and lower garment. While employers preferred short sleeve, users preferred long sleeves. In colors, employers preferred blue while users preferred white. In garments, both of. the employers and users preferred cotton, towel and cotton flannel. In addition, when introducing rest costume, it will be efficient to distinct the strategy between natives and foreigners, and also distinguish where the rest costume will be used.

Primary Laparoscopic-Assisted Endorectal Pull-Through for Hirschsprung's Disease (히르슈슈프룽병의 일차성 복강경 보조 Endorectal Pull-Through 술식의 임상적 고찰)

  • Park, Byung-Soon;Sul, Ji-Young
    • Advances in pediatric surgery
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    • v.19 no.2
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    • pp.130-139
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    • 2013
  • The application of laparoscopic techniques for the surgical management of Hirschsprung's disease is the recent trend. We described the surgical technique and postoperative long-term outcomes of the one-stage, laparoscopic-assiseted endorectal pull-through operation for Hirschsprung's disease. The technique uses three to four small abdominal ports. Laparoscopic mobilization of the sigmoid colon and rectum is performed and marginal artery-preserving colon pedicle is prepared. The rectal mobilization is performed using a transanal endorectal sleeve technique. The anastomosis is performed 0.5~1 cm above the dentate line. The age at surgery ranged from 6 days to 4 years. The average operative time was 144 minutes. Almost all of the patients passed stool and flatus within 36 hours of surgery. The average hospital stay after surgery was 6.5 days. Among 42 patients, 32 patients older than 3 years old were evaluated for function on defecation. All 32 patients have been continent, of those who needed laxatives were 11 (34.3%) due to constipation and overflow incontinence. Four children (12.5%) have remained dependent on laxatives. Laparoscopic-assisted endorectal pull-through operation for Hirschsprung's disease appears to be safe, provides the less pain, shorter time to full feeding, shorter hospital stay, and excellent cosmetic outcomes. Helping patients and parents ensure the quality of life, they should be provided with counseling, education, and longer-term follow-up care.

The Study on Technique and Design Appeared in Textile of Miaos in China (중국내 묘족의 직물에 나타난 기법과 문양 고찰)

  • 부애진;홍정민
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.37
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    • pp.149-162
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    • 1998
  • This study is thed Embroidery, Cross-stitchery, Weaving, Wax-Printing of technique and design appeared in textile of Miaos dwells in south-west among the minority people of china. The study is as follows. First, the technique of textile1) satin stitch, couching stitch, french-knot stitch, etc. using anther silk thread or cotton thread color 2) cross-stitchery 3) hand-weaving technique which is shaped other warp or weft using simple loom 4) the technique of dyeing of pattern using effect with wax. These methods are singly used mixing together, therefore doubled beauty. Second, these technuque of ornament have other independence, specially ornament apron, sling, sleeve borders, slack borderss, edge of upper garment, take off and put on easily, heighten effect of various ornament, can preserve many years. Third, Maker, female born in this country fashion by need of herself, used liberal method shown in unique creativity of life. This texture make standards capable female proud of intelligent and skill of herself. Fourth, Design appeared in textile like as pattern flying bird in the sky, strolling beast in the field, lion rolling gem, laughing dragon winding snake at gem, birks, flowers, fish, butterfly is used as the wish of long life, a lucky sign. They expressed creativity and unique conception using formation : the technique transform other shape using by omitting or adding or overestimating. Geometric pattern of tartan, revealing, Fifth, composition structure having balance and symmetry or contradiction towards center and circumstance of the center harmonized repeatedly method, expressed unique artful attraction by full composition.

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