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-A Study on the Cultural Aspects of Aztec Dress- (아즈텍(Aztec) 복식문화에 관한 연구)

  • 이정란
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.29 no.2
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    • pp.1-15
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    • 1991
  • The purpose of this study was to understand the diversity and speciality of Aztec dress which has not been well known, and to overcome ethnocentrism in clothing perceptions. From 15 century to early 16 century, the Aztec empire based on the unique view of the world, most flourished in Mesoamerica. Ritualistic and official side of Aztec life was reflected well on dress. Most Aztec garments consisted of unsewn pieces of cloth, draped on the body as loincloth, mantle and wraparound skirt. Slightly more complicated garments such as women's blouses(huipils) and men's simple jackets were created by sewing together two or more pieces of material. In the sharply stratified world of Aztec, strict sumptuary laws controlled dress. The garments of lower classes were made of maguey or yucca fiber, and only the upper classes were allowed to wear cotton clothing. In addition to material, color, elaborateness and even manner of tieing the mantle were carefully controlled by government edict. As the Aztec empire expanded and became wealthier, the sumptuary laws could not actually dictate what people wore everyday but rather provided a set of rules governing clothing for ceremonial occasions. Aztec's warrior costumes, consisted of headdress, towering back devices, feather garments, were sufficient to suggest the theatrical grandeur of what must have been one of the most magnificiently attired armies ever assembled.

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Fashion Design Study by Whole Cut Way (Whole cut에 의한 패션디자인 연구)

  • Park, You Shin
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.19 no.5
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    • pp.199-212
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    • 2015
  • Environmentally-friendly whole-cut designs can minimize carbon dioxide emissions which are harmful to the earth, and reduce energy, labor force and time in cutting or sewing clothes. The design and way of wearing clothing will be investigated by classifying whole-cut clothing appearing in the history of costume and past traditional outfits such as Drapery, a Pancho, Tunic, or Loincloth. According to the results from the analysis of whole-cut methods applied in design, they were classified as follows: whole-cut, utilizing square-panels as is, pleats, smoking, lip band, origami, cutting way, and subtraction-cutting whole-cut design. The whole-cut design utilizing square panel as it is can minimize the waste of energy and material but can also maximize the possibility of circulation by recycling. In utilizing an all square panel, it broke away from the existing whole-cut in the western pattern, namely, the pattern of clothes clinging to the body, and was found to have new aesthetic value with a new approach. Due to the whole-cut method having a restriction in the use of dart and line cutting in its designing process, there were only designs that did not show the body line, such as designs clinging to the body. Therefore we developed a design similar to those that cling to the body by whole-cut, In addition, the work produced was with high efficiency and variability, which produces simple designs but can be worn in a variety of ways.

An Analytical Research on Exotic Tastes Reflected in Contemporary Men's Fashion - Focused on Collections from 2001 to 2010 - (현대 남성 패션에 나타난 이국적 취향(Exotic Taste)에 관한 분석 연구 - 2001년부터 2010년까지 발표된 컬렉션 중심으로 -)

  • Shin, Myung-Jin;Nam, Yoon-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.10
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    • pp.104-118
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.

A study on the Assyrian men's costumes from the 10th to 7th centuries B.C. (기원전 10~7세기 아시리아 남자복식에 대한 연구)

  • Hyun Jin Cho
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.32 no.5
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    • pp.696-713
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    • 2024
  • This study aims to gain insight into society and culture in the 10th to 7th centuries B.C. by exploring the clothing in Assyria, which was the most powerful force in Mesopotamian civilization at the time. As a research method, literature and empirical studies were conducted in parallel, focusing on a total of 127 Assyrian artifacts held in domestic and foreign museums. The results of this study are as follows. The basic forms of Assyrian clothing are tunics and shawls. The tunics have short sleeves and are knee or ankle length with a special type of tassel decoration. They have a wide belt at the waist, and a decorative panel is attached vertically below with a strap. In addition to the basic clothing, there are loincloths and overskirts, with some having open right sides and fringe decorations to denote a higher status. The overskirt has a third or fourth-tier skirt structure with an open front and fringe decorations on the edges. Most military members, except for archers, wore knee-length tunics as uniforms. As for armor, they wore short-chest or knee-length coat-type lamella armor. Headwear mainly consisted of cylindrical hats and headband-type decorations. In the case of bracelets, mainly rosette-shaped decorations and simple ring-shaped bracelets with three or one turn were worn. For shoes, sandals were mainly worn, and soldiers mainly wore boots. As a result, each costume element is expressed in various ways depending on the wearer's status, clearly showing Assyrian costume culture.