• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.18-34
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• 2001

Statistical analysis oflong-tenn wave data resulted from HYPA(HYbrid PArametric wave model) for the eastern coast of Korea was performed. Subsequently a simple approach for predicting the global annual and seasonal littoral drifts has been derived to estimate littoral sediment budget.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 1983

The wave and hydrologic climate at a beach location are everchanging and coastal engineers have always been interested in the deformation of the natural beach caused by wave action over short or long interval of time. The drift of sand on a beach particulary manifests itself when blocked construction of seawalls, jetties, breakerwaters and groins etc.${\cdots}$ For this reason, the understanding and evaluation of littoral drift has been especially important to the coastal engineers. The resulting of the sand drift movement, such as the type of beach profile, width of beach, storage volume of the littoral sand over the profile are rapid everchange. We have studied the geological changes due to the littoral drift on a beach with field investigation and model tests in laboratory. But, it is impossible to make quantative correct analysis because of the factors are everchange and complicate. And then, most of study are incline to qualitative analysis. In this paper, authors studied mainly on the transition of beach profile and sediment storage on the profile using statistical field data as qualitative analytical method. The used theoretical beach transition model by Sonu and Beek have developed to obtain the change of HAEUNDAE beach backed with seawall. Results of this study indicate that the transition model are useful in the analysis of beach profile changement and the littoral drift movement on the beach. Qualitative analysises for HAEUNDAE beach are as follows. 1) Transition sequence of profile has 4 major transition for one cycle. 2) Storage sediment model of beach profile by Sonu and Beek well coincided with HAEUNDAE beach. 3) Seasonal cycle has ill-balanced process for the 5-yr. investigation.

• Water for future
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.65-74
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• 1975

The east coast seems to have remarkably different features from the west and south coast in the geographical, geomorphological, and oceanographical senses. In this paper the auther wishes to introduce some results of investigation morphological characteristics of the river mouth in the east coast an of analysis of it's causes. There are various closing form in river mouth by many causes, but the east coast hs the same closing form(the ratio of closing; roughly 0.18), as well known, by the sand spit, and has not hydrological but littoral drift background. The river of the east coast is proved mature age from hypsometric analysis. The wave and longshore current must be principal factor to be considered, in the analysis of the closing phenomenon owing to littoral drift. The research of the blown sand is considered valuable for the next study of this subject.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.150-156
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• 1994

Shoreline change due to the littoral drift in Suyeong bay, especially the Gwanganri and Haeundae beaches, was investigated. Average monthly frequency. speed. and direction of winds blowing from between east and south for the last 15 years were analysed, and offshore significant waves were hindcasted using the JONSWAP model. Wave refractions, shoaling, and breaking weir also investigated for the calculation of littoral drift. At the Gwanganri beach major longshore transport of sands occurs from the southwest to the northeast and the shoreline seems to advance in the northeast while it recedes in the southwest. At the Haeundae beach the sands mainly move from the east to the west and the shoreline retreats in the east and advances in the west.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.247-258
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• 2014

To evaluate the influence of the external force components on the littoral currents in the Gusipo beach, Jeonbuk, West Coast of Korea where a wide tidal sand flat developed, a coupled hydrodynamic model considered real time tidal currents and wave-induced currents was constructed in which the EFDC for tides and tidal currents, the SWAN for waves and the SHORECIRC for wave-induced currents were used as the hindcasting models. A series of field observations for tides, tidal currents and incident waves were carried out and especially to observe the littoral currents in the tidal sand flat, the GPS mounted and light weight drogues were used. Also wind data were collected from the adjacent weather station. To analyze the littoral current components, the numerical drogue tracking results considered real time winds, tides and waves were compared with the field drogue data. The drift speed of numerical drogues was reproduced as the range of 68.0~105.2% compared with the field data and the velocity error of main direction component showed a good result as -16.7~10.0%. As a result, in the mild slope tidal flat including wide surf zone, the tides and winds were the major affection component of the littoral currents, on the other hand, the wave-induced currents seemed the minor component when the incident wave heights were relatively small.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.308-320
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• 2021

An integrated sediment management approach that includes the recovery of the amount of declined sediment supply is effective as a fundamental solution to coastal erosion. During planning, it is essential to analyze the transfer mechanism of the sediments generated from estuaries (the junction between a river and sea) to assess the amount and rate of sediment discharge (from the river to sea) supplied back to the coast. Although numerical models that interpret the tidal sand bar flushing process during flooding have been studied, thus far, there has been no study focusing on the formation and development processes of tidal sand bars. Therefore, this study aims to construct wave deformation, flow regime calculation, and topographic change analysis models to assess the amount of recovered sediment discharge and reproduce the tidal sand bar formation process through numerical analysis for integrated littoral drift management. The tidal sand bar formation process was simulated, and the wave energy and duration of action concepts were implemented to predict the long-term littoral movement. The river flux and wave conditions during winter when tidal sand bars dominantly develop were considered as the external force conditions required for calculation. The initial condition of the topographic data directly after the Maeupcheon tidal sand bar flushing during flooding was set as the initial topography. Consequently, the tidal sand bar formation and development due to nearshore currents dependent on the incident wave direction were reproduced. Approximately 66 h after the initial topography, a sand bar formation was observed at the Maengbang estuary.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.123-130
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• 2018

The present study investigated the validity of an equilibrium shoreline empirical formula for real phenomena. Among three types of equilibrium shoreline formulas, Hsu's parabolic type static formula was employed, which is well-known and the most practical for shoreline estimation after coastal or harbor structure construction. The wave data observed at Maengbang beach and the CERC formula on longshore sediment transport were used in the present investigation. A comparison study was only conducted for the case of a shoreline change after the construction of a groyne. Reasonable agreement was seen between the observed wave data and the data obtained under a wave angle spreading function S = 3.5. However, significant changes were observed when S increased. Thus, careful application is required when using Hsu's formula.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2004.05b
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• pp.490-495
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• 2004

안목항의 방파제 확장 건설로 인하여 항남측에 심각한 침식현상이 광범위하게 발생하고 있는 데 이를 규명하기 위하여 현재 주변 해안선 변형 현상을 기초로 연안 표사 이동(littoral drift)도를 정성적으로 작성하였으며 수치 모형실험을 통하여 상세할 표사이동의 변화를 살펴보았다. 수치모형 실험은 파랑 변형 및 해빈류 예측 모형인 WADEM-P, DISEM-R로 수행되었다. 항 내 매몰 및 하천 폐색을 근본적으로 해결하면 해안선 침식문제를 완화 시 킬 수 있는 장치로서 모래운송장치(sand transfer)의 필요성이 언급되었으며 앞으로 연안 표사량이 많은 동해안에서의 항만 건설시 꼭 필요한 부대장치임을 강조한다. 또한 주기적인 연안관측 프로그램을 수립하여 연안 표사량 및 해안 침식율을 산정한 후 모래이송장치의 설치 여부 및 그 규모를 판단할 필요가 있다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.233-239
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• 2003

Coastal wave and tide information is very important in various occasions for port and harbor engineers, in the stages such as port and harbor planning, maritime structure design, maritime construction management, and coastal disaster study This paper introduces recent improvement of Japanese coastal wave-tide observation and information system named as NOWPHAS (Nationwide Ocean Wave information network for Ports and HArbourS). Development and improvement of the NOWPHAS has been achieved during recent decade in the following points of view (Nagai,2002a,2002b). (omitted)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.