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A Study on Style of the Hip-hop Fashion (Hip-hop Fashion에 나타난 스타일 연구(硏究) - 국내외(國內外) Hip-hop 뮤지션을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Lee, Ji-Hyoun;Chung, Eun-Sook
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.116-127
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    • 2002
  • The hip-hop fashion of the nineteens is just as important in hip-hop as in rapping, breaking, or graffitiwriting to young people. Hip-hop fashions major influences range from martial-arts moves, to street-gang uniforms and paraphernalia. Hip-hop fashion grew and evolved with the subculture. The identification with street-gang culture is important to hip-hop in general and still set the pace for hip-hop fashion. There are things that are necessary fashion components for each segment of hip-hop life. So even prisons are now selling prison clothes. Explaining the look, The rawest street element is a jail element, so the strongest statement is a uniform with shirts and trousers that match perfectly, like a jail piece. Insiders can detect the away of gang and prison culture on the iconography of seemingly innocuous brands. Hip-hop glam is part of an evolution of hip-hop style. Rap's gone luxe, and it is women who are leading the high-fashion charge. They wear in diamonds and fur. Now it is a very glam. Now, many brands are upping their marketing activities through a focus on their women's lines in advertising, and featuring hot celebrities. There is also a lot of rethinking of looks going on. Sexy and tight is emerging as the style of choice in this market and fabrications are becoming more important, as designers refine and upgrade their women's line. The clothes of hip-hop glam were the ordinary with the extraordinary: Designer fur and leather with athletic team jerseys, Nike sneakers, diamond bracelets and mall brands like Guess and Fubu. The hip-hop musician's sporty hip-hop looks has amply young people. The hip-hop looks of baggy jeans, oversized shirts and rugged outerwear have become a part of mainstream fashion. Hip-hop fashion has the characteristics of being sporty. In the 90s, Military look has got one of the fashionable hip-hop fashion style. It does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents a fashion trend and revival fashion. Not only fashion designer but also hip-hop musician selected the trend for hip-hop fashion style.

The Characteristics of Croatia Folk Costumes by Regional Groups (크로아티아 민속복식의 지역적 특성)

  • Cho, Woo-Hyun;Lee, Ho-Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.59-71
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    • 2006
  • This study contemplates Croatian traditional costumes with focus on its geographical characteristics and acculturation with neighbor countries as a member of old Yugoslavian Union. Therefore, it contains the information from field works based on Croatian language, native costumes and folk materials wildly. Men usually wear wide linen pants ($ga\'{c}$), shirt ($ko\v{s}ulje,\;rnbina)$, vest (lajbek), hat and jacket ($kro\v{z}et$). Also they sometimes wear scarves or aprons. Women put on blouse, long skirt, apron, headgear with various decoration and scarf ($pe\v{c}a$), shawl (tibetui robe) or necklace together. Croatian folk dresses fall into three different styles by provinces, such as Pannonia, Dinar and Adria, according to the basic environmental and racial characteristics of each province. People of Pannonia plain generally wear white linen clothing and often use flounce and lace, which are influenced by Serbia and Hungary. In the Dinar mountain province, aprons with tassel, knitted vests made of leather and fur are very popular. The clothing of Dinar province has much commonness with those of Bosnia - Herzegovina and Montenegro which have metal buttons and belts. And the clothing of Adria coast is influenced by Italy a lot. There are many splendid silk clothes in its folk dress code. As mentioned above, there are a lot of foreign influences in Croatian history. Although there were severe cultural invasions in many times through its history, Croatians didn't just surrender to these cultural influences. People in Croatia comply with these new coming culture and reconcile these into their own tradition and dress code in their own way.

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The Effects of Fashion Product Salesperson's Emotional Labor, Self-Efficacy and Burnout on Customer-Oriented Selling Behavior (패션 제품 판매원의 감정 노동과 자기효능감 및 탈진감이 고객지향적 판매 행동에 미치는 영향)

  • Lee, Kyung-Bok;Chung, Myung-Sun
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.33-47
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    • 2008
  • The purposes of this study were to extract the effects of emotional labor, self-efficacy and burnout on customer-oriented selling behavior of salesperson by literature review and to examine the effect variables on customer-oriented selling behavior empirically. The questionnaire was administered to 400 salespersons who were selling clothes, cosmetics, shoes, leather products and accessories in department stores located in Kwang-ju city during August 18-24, 2006. Data collected from 307 salespersons were analyzed by using descriptive statistics, factor analysis, t-test, ANOVA, Duncan-test, correlation, regression analysis and path analysis. The results were as follows: First, Salesperson's emotional labor was composed of two factors; emotional labor toward the customer and emotional labor toward the organization. Second, Salesperson's emotional labor had negative significant influence on customer-oriented selling behavior. Specifically, the emotional labor toward the organization negatively influenced on customer-oriented selling behavior, but the emotional labor toward the customer positively influenced on customer-oriented selling behavior. Third, Salesperson's emotional labor positively influenced on burnout. Specifically, emotional labor toward organization significantly influenced on burnout, but emotional labor toward customer did not influenced on burnout. Fourth, Salesperson's self-efficacy positively influenced on customer-oriented selling behavior. Fifth. Salesperson's self-efficacy negatively influenced on burnout. Finally, Salesperson's burnout negatively influenced on comer-oriented selling behavior. The direct effect of salesperson's self-efficacy on customer-oriented selling behavior was large than the indirect effect of salesperson's self-efficacy mediate burnout. But the indirect effect of salesperson's emotional labor mediate burnout was large than the direct effect of salesperson's emotional labor on customer- oriented selling behavior.

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The Improvements of the Clothing and Textiles Field in the 5th Edition of KDC (한국십진분류법 제5판 의류학 분야의 수정 전개 방안)

  • Kim, Jeong-Hyen
    • Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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    • v.43 no.3
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    • pp.101-120
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    • 2012
  • This study investigated general problems concerning the clothing and textiles field in the KDC 5th edition based comparative analysis academic characteristics and classification system, and suggested on some ideas for the improvements of them. Results of the study is summarized as follows. First, the classification system of the clothing and textiles field is generally divided by costume, dyeing engineering, leather & fur processing, textiles and textile industries, manufacturing clothes, management of clothing, and textile arts. Second, I proposed improvements based on analyzing problems of KDC 5th to the clothing and textiles field from the collection database at the National Library of Korea. Third, basically improvements of KDC system was based on the knowledge of the clothing and textiles field. I tried to maintain as the KDC existing classification system was to retain as much as possible, and to move between items was minimal.

The Impact of TV-home shoppers′ fashion-life style on fashion goods purchasings (TV 홈쇼핑 이용자의 패션 라이프스타일이 패션제품 구매에 미치는 영향)

  • 이수인;박혜정;정혜영
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.28 no.1
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    • pp.54-65
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study was to identify the impact of fashion life styles of TV-home shoppers on their fashion goods purchasings. This study analyzed TV home shoppers grouped into clusters based on their fashion life styles and identified their product-related evaluative criteria and purchasing intention according to clusters. This study also analyzed whether there are differences in clusters according to their socio-economic status. Utilizing the convenient sampling method, the sample of the study is composed of women aged over 20 living in the Seoul metropolitan area. Of 380 distributed, 196 useful questionnaires were returned. The data were analyzed using factor analysis, cluster analysis, $\chi$$^2$analysis, and One-way ANOVA. The results are as follows: Regarding fashion life styles, 5 factors, 1) fashion leadership, 2) shopping-involvement, 3) fashion image, 4) economics and 5) anti-fashion attitude were obtained. Based on the factor scores, 4 clusters, 1) aesthetic-orientation, 2) economics and fashion innovation-orientation, 3) conspicuous consumption-orientation and 4) anti-fashion attitude, were identified. Regarding the product-related evaluative criteria, there were significant differences in price, fashionability, design, size, brand reliability, refund policy, and appearances when worn according to clusters. There were also significant differences in purchasing intention when purchasing low price products and fashion items such as under wears, night and home wears, suits, leather and fur clothes, purse and bags, and shoes. Regarding the socio-econmic status, age, marital status, and occupation were significantly different according to clusters.

A Study on the Costume of Baikje Period -With Emphasis on the Influence of Korean Culture in the Ancient Japan- (백제복식연구 -일본고대사에 미친 백제문화의 영향-)

  • Cho Kyu Hwa
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.4 no.1_2
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    • pp.49-56
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    • 1980
  • Because of the scarcity of data, a study of costume during the Baikje period can be made imaginarily only with historical records as data. According to records, Baikje costume was almost the same as that of the Koguryo period. Consequently, we may well imagine Baikje costume by means of studying such materials as the mural paintings found in Koguryo tombs and the remains found in the royal tomb of Munyung. The basic form of costume of the Baikje period, therefore, might have been like this: Both male and female wore a kind of jacket(유: JEOGORI) and trousers(고: BAJI) with female-wearing skirt (상: CHIMA) thereon. Both men and women wore overcoat(포: DURUMAGI). They used to wear headdress(관모) and used leather shoes(화) Such a form of costume can be found in the costume of HANIWA(식륜) of Japan, which belonged to the costume of HOBOK (호복) of the northern area. Under the SHIMNEUK-PUM-KWAN-KE(십육품관계) system, that is, 16 grades of official ranks, officials of the Baikje dynasty wore clothes, coronets and belts, all of which differed from one another in colors, according to ranks. Such a system of Baikje might have influenced the KANI-JUNI-KAI (the 12-grade color discrimination of the coronet, 관위십이계) for the government officials of ancient Japan the Suiko period. For the study of such matters, I have tried to review the flow of the Korean culture into ancient Japan in the field of costume.

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Development of fashion design applying the characteristics of women's Hu clothing from Tang dynasty in China - Utilizing the 3D virtual clothing program - (중국 당나라 여성 호복의 특성을 활용한 패션디자인 - 3D 가상착의를 활용하여 -)

  • Ziheng Zhou;Younhee Lee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.31 no.1
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    • pp.124-140
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    • 2023
  • This study analyzes traditional women's Hu costumes of the Tang dynasty, and deploys a creative fashion design to converge contemporary and traditional styles. In this costume, women wear a robe with striped or plain patterns in the lower part of the pants, and it appears frequently in red and yellow colors. Depending on the sleeve, it is either a round collar or a turn down collar robe. In the Hu hat, the huntuomao and juanyanxumao were leather and mili and weimao were used to prevent the sand from flowing. This study uses the CLO 3D program with the "moment" theme based on the Hu costume for women to deploy 4 pairs of fashion design and to produce works for 2 pairs. The 3D virtual clothing program demonstrates important effects in design deployment and pattern arrangement through its efficiency and convenience of clothing production. The CLO 3D program was closely combined with the 2D design and the 3D affect, and it heightened the efficiency in saving the processing time and energy of the sample clothes. Through facilitating the 3D digital fashion design, the production may reduce time needed and contribute to an effective economy, and it may compare digital fashion design to actual products as well as illustrate the potential of digital fashion design.

Types and formative characteristics of the costumes worn by Northeastern Chinese minorities - Focusing on Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen and Hezhen - (중국 동북부 지역 소수민족 복식의 유형과 조형적 특성- 다우르족, 어원커족, 어르첸족, 허저족을 중심으로 -)

  • Seiyoung Park;Dong-Eun Kim;Jiyeon Kim
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.31 no.6
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    • pp.776-792
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    • 2023
  • This study aims to analyze the traditional attire of four ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China: Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen, and Hezhen, considering their natural environment, lifestyles, and cultural influences. A literature review of academic papers, books, and online resources was conducted, along with indirect investigations through artifacts. The Daur people, being equestrian, have garments with deep slits, vibrant colors, and elaborate decorations. The Ewenki people wear clothes made of fabric in the summer and primarily deer skin in the winter, and their clothing is simple and not flashy. The Oroqen people's clothing typically has slits at the front, back, or on both sides, and they wear a waist belt. The Hezhen people, an ethnic group that primarily hunts and fishes, wear two-piece clothing with a hip-length top and pants or other fur-trimmed garments. All groups incorporate symbolic patterns influenced by Shamanism, along with animal headgear and leather shoes. We observed that the traditional costumes of ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China share many commonalities in form, but there are detailed differences in material, shape, color, and decoration due to unique geographical and climatic characteristics as well as differences in livelihood. Additionally, the structure of clothing varies depending on each tribe's shamanistic practices and lifestyle.

A Study on the National Competency Standards of Fashion Accessories Production (패션소품생산 분야의 국가직무능력표준(NCS) 개발에 관한 연구)

  • Suh, Seung-Hee;Lee, Shin-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.1
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    • pp.46-60
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    • 2015
  • This study analyzed the process of development and verification of standards through the competency analysis of fashion accessories products in the development of 'National Competency Standards'(NCS), which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. The NCS for fashion accessories production was developed through three Focus Group Interviews (FGIs) and fashion accessories production was defined as "the process of design, development and manufacture intended to produce items that improve the degree of completion of fashion products that are produced from textile fabric, knitted fabric, leather and other materials such as bags, belts, hats, gloves, scarves, neckties and socks with the exception of clothes". The competency unit for fashion accessories production was analyzed in 11 categories: development of design; development of materials; production of prototype samples; calculation of cost; determination of mass production model and price; planning of main manufacture process; ordering of materials; planning for mass production; preparation for mass production; mass production; and inspection of completed products, and the verification was carried out on development outcomes through a survey carried out of on-site personnel. This study recommends the following direction for future improvements based on an analysis of the development process of the NCS for fashion accessories production. First, future development of standards should first provide a rational category system for each area of fashion good production based on the production process, which should be followed by a detailed competency survey. Second, in order to ensure a more efficient verification survey, an expert for each competency unit should be designated for the develop standard to induce a more sincere response. Also the questionnaire should require supplementation in order to collect the various additional opinions of experts of the field. Finally, this study concludes that it is urgent to procure an education infrastructure and specialized professors in order to apply the competency standard for fashion accessories production to the education sector. This study also concludes that the government will be required to provide systematic and consistent support aimed at supplementing development and forming a firm collaborative working environment for the industry and academia in order to improve the current education environment and build a more field-oriented education environment.

A study of Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments (중국 제복의 상징성에 관한 연구)

  • 이선희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.18
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    • pp.111-131
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    • 1992
  • This thesis was designed to study Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments. Chinese who regarded the life of human beings as the combination of heaven and earth considered garments as the traditional product of the movement of nature. Accordingly, they thought human beings are the center of the universe composed by heaven and earth and the chief of all things; therefore man only can utilize clothes to distinguish from all of the colours. This views of clothes led to the development of liturgical vestments esteemed courtesy than anything else, especially the thought of courtesy associated with Conficius who regarded courtesy as the highest things and since then the theory of Five Elements and courtesy were inherited by all the adherents of Conficius. Yin and Yang Five Elements in the liturgical vestments was given absolute symbolics in both formative side and in colourful side. results of research studied in this was can be summed up as follows : 1. The crown of rites was made imitating after the system of head, horn, beard, bread of birds and beasts and that form of crown is front-circ-ular and back-rectangular meant to be towards light and dark. That the upper part of faceplace is black represented the way of heaven and lower part of red symbolized the way of earth. 2. Upper vestment of liturgical rites symbolizes heaven and outskirt represented earth. So front of outskirt is YANG and back is Yin. It is why then are going to harmonize positive and negative making front part three width and back part four width. Therefore, emperor who symbolizes heaven made the subjects recognize high and low and wore Dae-gu(大 ), Kon-bok(袞服), Bel-bok, Chui-bok, and Hyonbok according to the object and position of rites so that he may rule the country based on courtesy. 3. As an accessory of liturgical vestments, Bul, Pae-ok, Su, Dae-dai, Hyok-Dai, Kyu, and Hol were used. Before Bul was used man dressed skirt as the first waist-dress in order to conceal intimate part of the body. Pae-ok, as decoration blended with jade was worn by men of virtue, so men of virtue symbolized morality and virtue by Pae-ok. Su began from Yeok, connected with Pae-su , in Chou-dynasty is said to be originated by practical needs and they are divided into large Su and small su, and maintained as decoration to signify the class positions. Dae-dai did the work as not to loose the liturgical vestments and leather belt hang Bul and Su to begin as the function of practical use are in later years it became decoration to symboliz e the class position. Kyu was a jade used when empeor nominated feudal lords and observe ceremony to God and Hol, was held in hands to record everything not to forget. These Kyu and Hol became to offer courtesy during the time of rites and in later years it became used according to class position rather than practical use. 4. As far as colours are concerned, colours based by five colours according to YIN-YANG Five Elements theory and they were divided into a primary colour and a secondary colours. Primary colours corresponded with the theory of Five Elements each other, Blue, Red, Tellow, White, and Black symbolized ive Elements, five hour space, five directions, and five emperors. Secondary colours contradict with Blue, Red, Yellow, White and Black and another as a primary colour and they are Green, Scaret, Indigo, Violet, Hun colour, Chu colour, and Chi colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour as primary colour and outskirt was used Hun colour as secondary colours. Thus symbolism in chinese liturgical vestments mainly began with heaven and earth and corresponded with YIN-YANG Five Elements Scool. They were developed as the scholary theory and Conficius and his followers in the later days and continued up to Min-dynasty.

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