• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.709-724
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• 2012

This study examined the characteristics of costumes worn at Halloween parties, a form of cultural entertainment commonly seen in the U.S. The Halloween party culture involves children and adolescents wearing costumes, decorating their bodies, and mimicking famous characters. Furthermore, the types and motifs of Halloween costumes have become a means of expressing individuality. This study conducted empirical research on how such motifs were reflected in modern Halloween party-wear in order to provide basic data regarding the development and design of Halloween costumes and the formation of the related entertainment culture. This study researched the shape of costumes and the type of traditional motif presented in these costumes, as well as analyzed the symbolic meaning of each motif. The research process was as follows. First, this study investigated the origin and evolution of Halloween by researching precedent studies, books, and internet data. Second, this study extracted the types of traditional Halloween motifs by analyzing the characteristics and symbols of Halloween costumes commonly presented in such materials. After collecting 547 Halloween-related images from U.S. and Korean Internet websites, this study sorted and analyzed images that could represent traditional Halloween motifs. According to the results, representative traditional Halloween motifs included black cats, white rabbits, tridents, scarecrows, skull and bones, ghosts, witches, vampires, bats, werewolves, and jack-o-lanterns(pumpkins, etc.). The sentiments for such traditional Halloween motifs changed according to era and race. The symbolic meaning would continuously change - from positive to negative and vice versa - to reflect various socio-cultural phenomena. The results of this study are expected to be used as basic data for developing Halloween costume designs and the related entertainment culture.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.15-33
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• 2011

The late $19^{th}$ and early $20^{th}$ centuries of Korea were the times when the Confucianism (牲理學) ideology was shaken heavily under the influences of modernism and capitalism by Western and Japanese military and political-economic forces. Under such circumstances, alteration of clothing was much influenced by ideologies than changes in social structure or technological advance. In this study, an ideology was defined as "the force which drives people into a particular social order". Ideologies were postulated as an ongoing process of socialization with dialectic features rather than being a static state. Comparative analyses on conflict structures and different clothing patterns symbolizing the ideologies of the Ruling (支配) and the Opposition (對抗) were conducted. Investigating dresses as representations of ideologies is to reconsider the notion of dichotomous confrontation between the conservatives (守舊派) and the progressives (開化派) and a recognition of Koreans' passively accepting modernity during the Japanese occupation. This may also have contributed to enlightening Koreans about modernization. Here are the results. First, the theoretical review found that ideologies were represented by not only symbols of discourse, but also dresses, and that dresses embodied both physical and conceptual systems presenting differences between ideologies and their natures, Second, during the late 19th century Korea, conflict between conservatives' Hanbok (韓服) and progressives' Western suits (洋服) was found. Moderate progressives showed their identity by "Colored Clothing" (深色衣), and radical progressives by black suits with short hair (黑衣斷髮) or by western suits (洋服). The ultimate goal of both parties was a "Modern Nation". With these efforts, pale jade green coats and traditional hats symbolizing the nobleman class was eliminated within 30 years from 1880 to 1910, and then simple robes and short hair emerged. However, the powerful Japanese army had taken over the hegemony of East Asia, and Korea was sharply divided into modernization and pro-Japanese camps. Third, during the time of Japanese colonial rule, the dress codes having set by the modernization policies during the time of enlightenment were abandoned and colonial uniforms for the colonial system was meticulously introduced. During this period, Western or Japanese-style uniforms were the symbol of the ruling ideology. In the mean time, Hanbok, particularly "White Clothing (白衣)", emerged as a representation of the opposition ideology. However, due to Japan's coercive power and strong zeal for "Great orient (大東亞)", white clothing remained as a mere symbol. Meanwhile, Reformists (實力養成論者) movement toward improving quality of life followed a similar path of the Japanese policies and was eventually incorporated into the ruling ideology. Fourth, dresses as representations of ruling ideologies were enforced by organizational powers, such as organizations and laws, and binding policies, and changes in such dresses were more significant when the ruling ideologies were stronger. Clothing of the opposition ideology was expressed as an aggregation of public consciousness. During the period, the subjects of ruling ideology and the objects who were granted modernization benefits were different although their drives for colored clothing with short hair (色衣斷髮) for modernization were similar.

• 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.6-10
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• 2006

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.76-90
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• 2015

This is a basic study of the two remaining armors (artifacts number K2366, K2368) from the late Joseon dynasty that is part of the Korean costume collection, which is preserved in the Mission Museum of Saint Ottilien in Germany. The armor No. 1 (artifacts number K2366) is a coat-styled armor with brass studs. It has a U-shaped neckline with the non-overlapping collars and sleeve straight-lined inseam. The armor No. 1 has the Mu to the sides and is not back slit. Both its inner and outer material are padded with cotton. Leather mails are attached on the inner lining, and studs are attached on the outer lining to match the leather mails. For this reason, the armor No. 1 can be named MyeonPiGab (brass studded armor consisting of a cotton coat with internal leather mails). The outer material is faded to have the natural white, or antique white look and the patterns on it are indigo blue. The inner material is blue, but the original color is unknown since it is faded. The lotus blossoms and vine patterns are dyed on the surface of the outer material and a name is written on the inner material. The armor No. 1 was worn between the late 17th century and the 19th century. It is estimated that it was worn by military officers who were above the mid-rank in the end of the Joseon dynasty. The armor No. 2 (artifacts number K2368) is a coat-styled armor with brass studs and a low-cut U-shaped neckline. The armor No. 2 has a slit on the left armpit and a string around it. Studs are evenly attached on the armor. The iron mails are attached to the left chest area on its inner lining. It seems that it was designed with both formality and functionality in mind. The outer material is red flannel, the inner material is blue satin and the pads are cheesecloth. The side of its collars, cuffs, front lines, sidelines, back slit, and bottom lines are trimmed with fur. There are armors called "JeonCheolGap (brass studded armor consisting of a felt coat with internal iron mails)," which is similar to the armor No. 2, however, the similarities are limited because they are not made of the same material nor do they follow the same principle of nomenclature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.84-96
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• 2011

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge. The Museum holds a total of eleven items of koran dresses that were donated by two anthropologists in the first half of the twentieth century. Male dresses consist of a white cotton jacket (Jeogori), a under-vest (Deungbaeja) made of light wisteria rings, a headband (Manggeon) made of horsehair, a broad brimmed top hat (Gat) made of black horsehair gauze, an oilskin cover (Galmo) drawn over the hat in wet weather, and a hemispherical hat box (Gatjib). Female dresses comprise a pink silk jacket (Jeogori), a blue silk skirt (Chima) with pleats, a pair of woman's white cotton trousers (Sokgot), a black silk cap (Jobawi) decorated with pink tassels and imitation pearls, and a pair of green and magenta silk shoes (Danghye) with leather soles and metal rivets. Theses Korean dresses show what the western anthropologists had interests in. When collectors collect the folk objects, they thought much of the specificity of shape and material, the esthetic appreciation, and the representation of daily life. In terms of the value as the historical materials in the history of Korean dress, the under-vest of wisteria, the hat box, and the female dresses are worth paying attention to. The under-vest is one that was produced in earlier time among the remaining under-vests. The hat box represents that the hat belonged to the merchant classes. The female dress items show daily dresses worn by women of higher classes of the society in the 1920s.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.30
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• pp.245-262
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• 2013

This paper analyzes three feature films that are based on Brothers Grimm's "Snow White": Disney's Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs (1937), Tarsem Singh's Mirror Mirror (2012), and Rupert Sanders' Snow White and the Huntsman (2012). Disney's animation, not the original literature, is the archetype of the later films. Grimm's fairy tail does not include the kiss of Prince Charming that saved Snow White which is, in fact, borrowed from "Sleeping Beauty", nor Snow White's rapport with animals. In Snow White and the Huntsman 's case, the costume of protagonist is similar with Disney's film and some shots are almost identical with Disney's version in terms of composition and angles. Nevertheless, these films show their originality with markedly different visual styles. Mirror Mirror and Snow White and the Huntsman have achieved reasonable success at the box office despite of relatively simple and predictable narratives due to the power of spectacle. While Disney's Snow White displays the model of witch that later becomes prototype of many movies, Mirror Mirror represents the unique magical world, a trompe-l'oell that can only done by director Tarsem, and Snow White and the Huntsman successfully visualizes Freudian concept of 'the uncanny' itself.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.1-21
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• 2005

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costumes that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde an. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the style of art that Larionov and Goncharova introduced in the 20th century. The research method defined the formation and the progress of the development of the Rayonism centering the works of art by Larionov and Goncharova. Based on this method, larionov and Goncharova designed the set and the costumes for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing an. The result were as follows. First of all, Larionov's costumes of art were all manufactured based on the theme of nature and genesis. In other words, Larionov represented the sun as a humanistic god through the white night, the natural weather condition of northern Russia. His costumes also displayed the symbolic meaning of the personification of animals like birds and cats, which emphasized the importance of both nature and tradition. However, he used Rayonism expression when he designed costumes by applying the nature themes. On the other hand, Goncharova applied the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art lubok, and goldern cockerel or religious icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume design. her design displayed the Rayonism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, whic defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Larionov and Goncharova had one realize that Rayonism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Larionov and Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the 20th century in their costume designs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.57-76
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• 2001

This study was intended to make a comparative analysis of the plastic features of Korean and Japanese dragon patterns found in the process of recreating traditions in comtemporary fashion based on the investigation into the style of expression in relation to the origin, formative evolution, symbolism and traditional costume of the dragon. The form of the dragon has evolved with some similarity and peculiarity between both countries and been changed into many kinds and diverse forms such as the humorous dragon pattern of the Yi Dynasty and the simplified and designed dragon pattern symbolizing the Japanese family crest and the like, Its symbolism has lasted in terms of the sacrificial object, royal power, good omen, Buddhist guardian and the like. There is a difference in the aesthetic sense due to the different traditions and cultural background between Korea and Japan, and the dragon pattern found in the process of recreating the tradition in comtemporary fashion manifested itself as the peculiar aspect. An attempt was made to make a comparative analysis of the dragon pattern found in comtemporary fashion between Korea and Japan. The following results were obtained: First, the commonality between both countries was to make a contemporary expression of the dragon pattern, which was expressed in a realistic form because of a traditionally inherent strong image of the dragon. On the other hand, the designed dragon pattern rarely found expression. It can be said that carefully treating the dragon pattern is attributed to the Oriental thinking like this. Second, Korean people have arranged one or more simplified dragon patterns taking on a form of the coiling dragon in the composition of the scattered point and made a comtemporary expression of them by the contrast of black and white shading in Korea. And the humorous form of the dragon pattern manifested itself in the Yi Dynasty. On the other hand, the case of printing the dragon pattern in the black dragon sword of all over the Kabuki costume in a pictorial composition has frequently appeared in Japan. And Japanese people have expressed its lightness and briskness rather than the dignity and strength that the dragon pattern gives with the use of strong color tones and new materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.125-140
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• 2000

The major findings of basic women wear in genre painting were ; 1. Due to the influence of Shill-Hak (practical science) philosophy, Jeogori became shorter and a tighter fit came to be the norm. 2,. The shortening of the Jeogori influenced a longer Chima with a wider span providing comfort in movement or at work. The end of the skirt was often held by one hand to the waist adding to comfort. This was called the Go-dul-chima(Lifted Chima). 3. Because the Geo-dul-chima exposed a portion of one underwear at the bottom of the dress this influenced the "irnamentation' of underpants and underskits. 4. Collars or lapels came in the form of Dang-ko, Kal, Mok-pan and Ban-Mokpan. Among there Dang-ko style collars were the most common which allows us to conclude that this was the most popular. 5. The most commonly used colors for Jeogori were white (39.8%) and jade(18.3%) . The most commonly used colors for CHima were deep blue(34.4%) and jade(20.4%) . The lower Chima used the darkercolors to give stability to the overall costume. 6. Clothing had the function of differentiating the classes. Only the Yang-ban were allowed to wear the Samhijang Jeogori and the Gob-Chima(double layered Chima) and the knotting of the Chima to the left. But the painting show that these rules were not adhered to in the strictest manner. With the bases of these types of chima and Jeogori can look at the characteristical beauty of the ordinary women during the late Cho-sun dynasty. First is the beauty which comes from mystery of those parts of body which can not be seen. A sense of subtle and sensual beauty as well as that coming from the enlargement of reduction of the upper body, narrow waist and abundant lower body parts creating an ideal silhouette of sexual charm. An expression of emotion through clothing by those who lived during those times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.53-64
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes of western men's underclothes in the first half of the 20C and analyze functions and features of men's underclothes. This study was to utilize many literatures in the analysis of historical changes of western men's underclothes. In the 1900's, the attached collar was giving place to the detachable, and the coloured shirt for day wear was becoming accepted. The correct wear fur various occasions was given. Double collar was the favourite for day wear. The dress-shirt protector worn over the dress-shirt front. Men preferred to vest and pants in one as a combined garment. In the 1910's, underclothes were permitting freer movement, but what was still more significant was the glowing inclination to reduce the layers which covered the body. The new conception of decency which was beginning to appear continued to characterize underclothing the symbols of social rank, expect for formal occasion, were declining. For day the white shirt was being displaced by the soft-fronted shirt. In the 1927-1930's, Underclothes were reduced in number, extent and thickness. Underclothing had lost two of its original function : it no longer preserved the warmth of the body, nor did it disguise its essential shape. Both sexes discarded the use of white underwear, In the 1930's, men saw an increasing preference for the coloured shirt. Combinations became increasingly popular and the singlet were displacing the under-vest in the 1930's. All undergarments were very commonly in natural colours. In the 1940's, for evening dress. shirt was plain linen front and square cuffs. Short trunks reached to mid-thigh, had a front waist yoke with three button fastening. Underclothes were pursued ease and activity.