• 제목/요약/키워드: korean traditional dress

검색결과 321건 처리시간 0.024초

20세기 동양모드의 변화 연구 (A Study on the Oriental Mode in nth Century Fashion)

  • 조영아;유혜영
    • 복식
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    • 제51권5호
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    • pp.17-28
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    • 2001
  • The purposes of this study were to arrange and analyze the Oriental Mode in 20th century fashion and to clarify that Oriental dress and its ornaments appearing as the main subject of Occident fashion gradually The results were as follows : First, Oriental Mode in 1900-1950s was prescribed as the 'Orientalism' to be expressed Occidental imperialistic viewpoint. Therefore, the Orient was used as the simple recording mark of the imperialism product or commercial motive and it was reflected in fashion. Second, it was explained in 1960-1970s as the 'Folklore Orientalism' that focus was moved into the folklore costume of Orient. Third, in 1980s, 'Ethnic' was conspicuous that reflected the traditional costume in the area of non-christianity. Especially, it was the decade that the Middle East attracted attention. Fourth, Oriental Mode in 1990s appeared as the 'Fusion' that Oriental and Occidental elements were mixed and compromised on equal terms. Fifth, it was expressed as a word 'Zen' that had natural fiber, moderate color and silhouette to be most basic and concise about human body at the end of 1990s. This study could confirm that the center of fashion was being converted into the Orient gradually. This may be understood as the pluralistic culture phenomenon. Namely, eclectic principle to recognize mutual style and individualistic nature and to utilize and mix was made, and this brought the conversion into Oriental sense of value.

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모던 시대와 포스트모던 시대의 샤넬 스타일 특성 비교 (Comparison of the Characteristics of Chanel Style between Modern and Postmodern Period)

  • 박숙현;이관이
    • 한국생활과학회지
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    • 제13권1호
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    • pp.159-171
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study was to compare the characteristic of Chanel style between modern and postmodern period. The documentary research method was used for this study. The modem period was limited from around 1920 through 1939 and the postmodern period from 1990 through present for this research. The results were summarized as follows: The characteristics of clothing style in modem period were 1) the preference of slim & straight body figure as ideal one and slim & straight clothing silhouette, 2) the high fashion image for the elite by simple & basic design, 3) the emphasis on the harmony by the unity, 4) the tendency of eliminating ornaments on clothing, 5) the discontinuation of traditional way of dress code & style, and 6) the modern style. The characteristics of clothing style in postmodern period were 1) the emphasis on erotic aspects of female body and sexy design, 2) the popularization of high fashion and certain social group's fashion, 3) the tendency of harmony by mix-match, 4) the preference of ornaments in clothing, 5) the preference of retro-fashion, and 6) the continuation of modem style.

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Amish의 종교관과 의복 (A Study on the religion and costumes of the Amish)

  • 박금주
    • 복식
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    • 제32권
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    • pp.57-68
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study was to understand the effects of religion on Amish costumes. For this study I twice visited Amish village in Lancaster Pennsylvania U.S,A in July 1993 and August 1996. The methods of study directed direct observation and literature re-search. The results of this study were as follows: The Amish was livid practically by strict princi- ples of simplicity diligence piety and mutual cooperation. The Amish behavioral code of laws known as ordnung dictated appropriate dress agricultual methods and a routine for daily life. The Amish costumes originated with the 17th century Puritans traditional apparel the European farmer and the clothing style of 19th century Americal,. Amish costumes was fastened with hooks and eyes instead of decorative buttons a diret influence of Puritanism does and did non con-tain ornamental outer pockets. This distinctively simple costumes served as a boundary outsiders to and as a direct ex-pression of their faith. An Amish doll had neither facial features nor fingers and toes as described in scripture "You do not become corrupt and make for yourselves an idol an image of any shape whether formed like a man or a women or like any animal on earth or any bird that flies in the air or like any creature that moves along the ground or any fish in the waters below" In this way Amish costumes was affected by their religion and faith.

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느릅나무껍질과 꼭두서니 복합추출물을 이용한 천연염색 한복형 휴식복 디자인 (Design of Natural Dyeing Hanbok-Type Leisurewear Using Elm Bark and Rubia akane Nakai Composite Extracts)

  • 장현주
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제23권2호
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    • pp.151-158
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    • 2021
  • The purpose of this study was to develop high-quality naturally dyed leisurewear with images of traditional Korean clothing that keeps a psychologically comfortable and physically pleasant environment at home and in vacation spots. The root bark of elm trees, the atopic skin, is also known to be effective for the relief of rhinitis and atopic diseases as well as stress and insomnia. However, there is insufficient color in the bark for the dyeing of fashion products, so to compensate for the lack of color, for dyeing purposes it was combined with a composite extract called Rubia akane Nakai resulting in a relatively bright red color. Except for the light fastness, all the fastnesses were rated 4 to 5, showing excellent results. Through complex dyeing using elm bark and pods extract the author produced four high-quality vests, one-piece, a gown, and jeogori-pantsuits of silk materials with Korean images that are suitable wear for relaxing comfortably at home and during breaks and which provide a comfortable and physically pleasant experience. The vest was made with the formal style of Bae-ja and Dang-eu, the dress is made of Cheok-lik, and the gown is made of Wonsam. It will be meaningful at a time when the importance of rest is increasing due to the healing clothes worn by busy modern people.

친환경 패션산업 동향과 쓰레기 발생 감량화(Zero Waste)를 위한 실험적 디자인 사례 연구 (Eco-Fashion Industry Trend and Creative Fashion Design Technic for Zero-Waste)

  • 박혜원
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제16권4호
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    • pp.29-45
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

의생활 영역 학습자료 개발에 관한 연구(제7차 교육과정 중학교 2학년 기술ㆍ가정을 중심으로) (A Study on the Development of Learning Materials for Clothing Behavior)

  • 전은주;이희현
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제4권3호
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    • pp.65-73
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study was to prepare lesson plans, study aids and multimedia learning materials for the clothing units in TechnologyㆍHome economics of the 7th national curricula. It's also meant to utilize these materials in instruction in order to provide students with more direct and practical learning experience and make them capable of leading a successful life in the 21st century. 1. The teaching plans were mapped out for the clothing units in TechnologyㆍHome economics class for middle school grade 2, which were all covered by eight textbooks: clothing and life(the function of clothes, my attire, wearing a suit, and wearing Korean traditional dress), the preparation of garments(the type of fiber, understanding of stuff, and preparing garments), and cloth care and storage (washing, storage, alteration and recycling). 2. The lesson plans included information on the name of units, period, learning objectives, teaching environment, materials, learning content, introduction, development, remarks, topping off, announcement for next session, and related Web sites. 3. To raise the effect of education, study aids were developed to be appropriate for the units. The lesson plans and study aids for the clothing part of TechnologyㆍHome economics class for middle school grade 2 would serve to help students build the right clothing habits, and are expected to serve as good teaching materials.

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고구려 고분벽화의 복식을 응용한 현대 한복 디자인 연구 (A Study on Mordern Hanbok Design Applied by the Costume in Koguryo Mural Painting)

  • 김옥순;진경옥
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제8권2호
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    • pp.161-167
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

현대 패션에서 나타난 블랙의 미의식에 관한 연구 - 20세기 후반을 중심으로 - (A Study on the Aesthetic Consciousness of Black on Contemporary Fashion - Concentrating on the Late Twentieth Century -)

  • 송명희;조규화
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제1권1호
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    • pp.110-126
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    • 1997
  • This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

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조선시대(朝鮮時代) 유교사상(儒敎思想)과 의예복연구(儀禮服硏究) - 남자(男子) 포(袍)를 중심(中心)으로 - (A study on ceremonial costume and Confucianism is Chosun Dynasty - Focusing on Men's Po -)

  • 이선재
    • 복식
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    • 제16권
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    • pp.221-229
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    • 1991
  • This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

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국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》 속 등장인물의 복식 고찰 (Analysis of Clothing in a Painting Album of a 60th Wedding Anniversary Feast in the Collection of the National Museum of Korea)

  • 이은주
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제56권3호
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    • pp.76-98
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    • 2023
  • 국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》(덕수6375)에 묘사된 남녀 등장인물의 복식을 분석하고 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 추정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 주인공 노신랑은 <전안례도>와 <교배례도>에서는 평소 관원으로 착용하던 흑단령을 착용하였다. 그 외 <헌수례도>와 <접빈도>, <중뢰연도>에서는 패영 없는 자립에 옥색 포, 홍색 세조대를 둘렀다. 기럭아범은 자립에 귀 옆에 묶은 패영을 달고 흉배를 부착한 무문 흑단령을 착용하였다. 성인 남자 자손과 하객들은 도포 등 당시의 대표적인 포 종류를 착용하였는데 특히 무관으로 추정되는 인물들은 철릭, 직령을 착용하고 붉은 색 띠와 청색 계통의 띠를 신분에 맞추어 착용하였다. 징씨(徵氏) 등 안내자는 중치막과 홍단령을 착용하였으며 어린 동자들과 시동(侍童)은 중치막을 착용하였다. 술을 따르고 음식을 나르는 총각들은 땋은 머리에 소창의(小氅衣)를 입고 성인들은 전립(氈笠)에 소창의를 착용하였다. 군영 소속의 세악수들은 소색 소창의에 흑색 전복, 그리고 허리에 남색 포대 등 군복을 착용하였다. 둘째, 노신부는 <교배례도>에서는 거두미와 초록원삼 차림을 하였고 <헌수연도>에서는 남치마·옥색저고리 차림이 확인되었다. 여자 자손들은 어여머리에 비녀와 반자, 진주댕기 등의 칠보장식을 하였고 다양한 색상의 저고리에 남색과 홍색, 옥색 등의 치마를 입었다. 남치마에 초록 장옷을 입은 부인도 확인되었다. 홍치마에 초록색 회장저고리를 입은 <교배례도>의 동녀(童女) 4명은 낭자머리에 비녀 꽂고 도다익 댕기를 길게 드리웠으며 칠보족두리를 썼다. 비자(婢子)들은 어여머리에 가리마를 썼으며 양반 부인들과 유사한 치마·저고리를 착용하였으나 색상이 연했고 치마의 길이가 짧았으며 치마의 부풀림 정도가 약하였다. 기녀는 양반 부인과 비슷한 모습이었으나 색상이 덜 화려하였으며 어여머리에는 칠보장식이 없었다. 셋째, 주인공의 자립 착용, 철릭과 직령을 입은 하객들, 군영 소속 세악수 참여 등에 근거하여 회혼례의 주인공이 병조나 군영과 관련된 인물이었을 가능성을 제시하였으며 군영 악대의 전복의 소매 길이와 잠화 사용, 어여머리의 형태와 댕기, 저고리의 길이와 치마의 부풀린 형태 등에 근거하여 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 1760년대~1780년대로 추정하였다.