• 한국의사학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.17-30
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• 2011

King Hyeonjong, the 18th king of the Chosun Dynasty, reigned for 15 years. During his reign, he underwent a political incident named the Controversy about the Confucian Funerary Rituals. This incident was carried out 2 times: 1 time during early days of his reign and 1 time during later days. Although it started out as a trivial dispute over the period Queen Dowager Ja-eui(stepmother of King Hyojong, Hyeonjong's father) had to wear a mourning dress, it advanced to a political incident concerning the acknowledgement of King Hyeonjong's legitimacy and political pride of the king and the vassals. Although existing researches focus on the historical context of this incident, this study focuses on the relationship between this incident and King Hyeonjong's disorders. During the First Controversy about the Confucian Funerary Rituals, King Hyeonjong was treated for various symptoms concerning hypochondria. During the Second Controversy, he suffered from septicemia as well as diabetic complications. This study is based on the texts of "The Daily Records of Royal Secretariat of Chosun Dynasty".

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.37-49
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• 2001

The purpose of this research was to investigate the influential factors to wear or not to wear \"Hanbok\" in Korean society. Twenty six individuals who wear Hanbok relatively often, and twenty seven individuals who dont were purposively sampled and interviewed for the study by structured depth-interview method. A domain analysis, a method of qualitative study, was employed to find out the influential factors from the results of the depth-intervews. From the analysis, fifteen encouraging or discouraging factors to wear Hanbok emerged and were categorized into five domains, which included \"interpersonal relationship\", \"life-style\", \"image\", \"practicality\" and \"decorative function\". The personal involvement in traditional culture, tradition-oriented family background, good images related to Hanbok, and affordable life-style appeared to be encouraging factors to wear Hanbok. Meanwhile, social norm and role-expectation adjusted to westernized criteria, unaffordable life-style, ill practicality of Hanbok and negative cues associated with Hanbok were the factors influencing people to turn away from Hanbok. The study also revealed complex interactions between these factors explaining individuals choice of wearing or not wearing Hanbok in industrialized modern society of Korea. Some suggestions to promote wearing Hanbok were made based oh the results of this study.wearing Hanbok were made based oh the results of this study.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.42-53
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to study doll's symbolism representing our social culture and the characteristics of clothing design. The ball joint doll was selected, that are pretty much resembled to human body in terms of facial expression, body proportion, joint movement, etc. Results of research are summarized as follows: the ball joint doll is indicated a doll whose joints are free to move with a round shaped joint, which originated by Yochilya simon, who adopted German Hans Bellmer's method.'rho ball joint doll, first, there appeared state of human isolation due to the material civilization and industrial revolution, and trend of adhering to one's own world made human possess dolls. Second, according to the doll play became a representing play culture among Kidult culture, dolls, that are resembled with human being, were recognized as personalized objects. Third, along of expanding digital culture that makes easy to exchange information via Internet, so, ball joint doll market is growing fast, for which various levels of mania are being formed. Take a look at the doll fashion in modern society. In accordance to form of Look, it is largely categorized Young Casual look, Office look, Ethnic look and Military look. When take a look at design specialty, young casual look was presented as a comfortable silhouette and also made of elastic materials and expressed vivid bright tones. Office look image was expressed as a suit of jacket with skirt, and cotton wool polyester materials and acro-matic colors. Ethnic look was represented by Japanese traditional dress and Chinese traditional clothing. The Military look was generally emphasized army uniforms of straight silhouette and shoulder straps.

• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.166-182
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to reinterpret sexuality represented in fashion since the latter half of the 19th century in a contextual view, on the basis of Foucauldian idea of post-structural sexuality. As for research methodology, literary research was undertaken from the conception of sexuality to a historical review of the culture and dress. Foucault maintains the view of plural sexuality, which floats by power relationship between dominant and oppositional discourses in a specific historical context. In contextual approach sexual ideology codified in fashion since the latter 19C shows the following aspects: First, the traditional sexual ideology in the latter 19C is a capitalist value, which gives a priority to bourgeois man's profits, and the Victorian discourses of sexuality constructs the dichotomized fashion of the period. Next, the former half of the $20^{th}$ C is regarded as the period of conformity rather than opposition with various alternatives appropriated to the mainstream, so the traditional sexual ideology in fashion of this period is still preserved. Finally, in post-capitalism period of the latter 20C a variety of anti-fashion visualized plural sexuality from the enormous oppositional discourses. Although it doesn't all mean deconstruction of sexuality in fashion by the anti-fashion re-appropriated without oppositional meanings, pluralization of sexuality implies dynamics of sexual discourses in the next historical period. As a result, fashion since the latter 19C has been changed as a means for expressing age and sexual desire out of gender and class. And mainstream fashion in even postmodern period keeps the modern value on the center of the hegemonic heterosexual masculinity though the increase of Androgynous Femininity in women's fashion may connote the meaning of femininity. The plural sexuality represented in fashion has a contextual flexibility, thus sexuality floats with a specific socio-cultural context and fashion represents a masquerade as an identity vehicle.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.91-101
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• 2014

String, as clothing material, has played a functional, symbolic and decorative role in garment traditionally. The string has a shape of continuous line, which is one of the basic elements for the design: points, lines and sides. It can effectively represent the silhouette by making our vision flow to a certain direction. This study reinterprets the traditional form of string in a new modern way by developing "Tube-Shaped String" which has an empty hole in the middle. As a creative attempt, the new tube-shaped string can be used for fashion design by applying it to unique shapes, colors, textures, and draping expressions. In a role dimension, this string can become the main fabric material. The methods of the study are as follows. First, it examines the traditional shape and role of string in the history of garment. Second, it studies modern designers, such as Christian Dior, Ann Demeulemeester, Dolce & Gabbana, and 3.1 Phillip Lim, who have applied the string to their design, and have explored the various potentials of the string in the past four years. Finally, based on the theoretical research and practical analysis, this study creates a new tube-shaped string, applying its own technique to fabricating three garments: jacket, dress, and body suit. As a result, each garment shows unique silhouettes, rich texture and color, and rhythmical movement. The unique silhouettes reflect the shape and movement of different bodies. The texture and color are created through the shades of the string which come from the overlapping strips. The garments come with an unbeatable aesthetic design compared to conventional uniform design. As a new material in clothing, this tube-shaped string can be developed to satisfy the public, which has widely varying tastes in fashion.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.85-96
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• 2005

The purposes of this study were to examine young women's fashion and their values in South Korea in the 1970s and to explore the dynamics of how the changes in values affected fashion. Fifteen Korean women who were college students in the 1970s were interviewed. With industrialization and acculturation to Western customs in the 1970s, Korean women's fashion reflected the permeation of new ideas and behaviors into the culture. New ideas of 'pursuing a career' or 'gaining professional success' rooted in the women's movement were most important and were reflected in the prevalence of casual and comfortable styles. However, 'having a good husband and being a good wife' was also important. In addition to the transition in gender roles, Korea was fast moving from a collectivist to an individualistic society and underwent the process of melding traditional and newly-adopted values in their acculturation to the West. This study helps us better understand Korea's acculturation process through dress and the dynamics involved between fashion and value changes.

• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.139-152
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to consider what influences the Spanish folk costumes had on the ones of Latin America on Acculturation Phenomenon during Spanish reign over Latin America. As a method of doing this, the researcher compared and analyzed the style of dress such as color, material, design and accessories of Spanish folk costumes and the ones of Latin America, classifying them by male costumes and female ones respectively, by studying reference books, literature, and photographs related to the folk costumes and visiting this areas. The results of the study were summarized as follows; First, we can find out Spanish folk costumes were accepted to the folk costumes of Latin America just as it were. Second, Spainish folk costumes have been developed to be suitable for the climatic, geographical cultural characteristics of Latin America. Third, the folk costumes of Latin America become much simpler by the influence of Spainish culture. Fourth, as a result of cultural contact, mixture with Spainish culture, native folk costumes of Latin America had more various style. In conclusion, Spanish government over Latin America had given a cultural homogeneousness and colonial culture of Spain and traditional culture of Latin America have been mixed and created the present unique folk costumes of Latin America. Therefore good understanding and use of the sense of beauty of folk clothes of Latin America influenced by Spain culture will be helpful to enlarge creativeness of design of modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.29-46
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• 2009

Aiming at finding symbolistic meanings and characteristics of makeup in Chinese Beijing Opera("BO"), this study formulated a theoretical framework mainly from literature in the Symbolism and symbolistically analyzed materials related to BO makeup from literature, internet web pages and illustrated news concerning performing arts. Main objects to analyze are the characteristics of four main roles in BO and the patterns, symbols, ornaments and traditions of Beijing Opera facial makeup("BOFM"). Four main roles are Sheng, Tan, Ching and Chou, categorized by gender, age, social position and personality. The result to analyze symbolistic meanings and characteristics of makeups for the roles in BO are as follows: the patterns and colors of BOFM function as explanations to help audiences understand each role's personality and dramatic situations as well as provide hints about the development and ending of an opera: that is, BO makeup is a communicative intermediary between audiences and actors in BO. It tends to follow the stereotypes, which conventionally dress and exaggerate the characters of roles, and copy the traditional Chinese perception about colors. Thus, by the metaphysical and typical expression of BOFM, Chinese people have not been pursuing the realism in opera but applying BO makeup to a mutual communication method between audiences and performing artists as to share their collective cultural heritages and spirits. Threfore, BO makeup has been an interacting language between the two entities and grown within the history of BO as a beauty art to highlight a BO by its unique systems, ornaments and beauty.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.179-199
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• 1999

Indeterminancy is one of the thought systems which explains all things with not 'either-or' but 'both-and' the conditions and qualities of human identities and inner state. A view of the world of Dionisos of Nietzsche's and the character of Manneristic trend which has resolved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression has succeeded to romanticism surrealism and postmodernism. 1. Cross-dressing has increased under contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in the past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereotypes and give rise to the cultural insecurities in contemporary conditions. 2. The indeterminancy of status that is wealth versus poverty impacts on variations of contemporary dress. This has been represented by neglecting traditional code which is related to wealth in costume by conversion of the symbols of wealth and poverty as disguise with moderation simplicity and additionally poverty image instead of ostentation. 3. In the cultural aspect that is mother culture/ subculture the author has investigated black street fashion which has newly become visible. The black street fashion is wide spread in black popular music such as jazz Rhythm & Blues Reggae and Rap which is subculture against white. The external values of indeterminancy in fashion are n대-manneristic tendencies as deformation eclectic friction and irrational structure and graffiti method. The inner values by indeterminant expression in fashion are irony and paradox grotesque satire and amusement.

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.153-167
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to supply the opportunity of being used as a material which can predict future fashion. This study had been divided the symbolic meaning into three parts. The first part was the symbolic expressions in the materials of modern fashion, and the second part was symbolic meaning which was expressed in the accessories, and the last part was the symbolic meaning which was expressed in the physical ornament. The results could be summarized as follows. First, among the forms of heraldry were expressed in modern Fashion, were such as animals like a lion and eagle, which evoked the powerful and lively mood. A vegetable heraldry was expressed on a pattern of textile fabric to pursue the beauty of dress, represented female and classical beauty. A inanimate object heraldry was included all natural material that didn't have all lives the world, represented the mystery and intensity of nature as using the design that sets off the idea through color and figure. Second, in the case of being the forms of heraldry used as a mark or logo in modern fashion, it was visualized the fashion of traditional sense, marine look and military look. This mark or logo had important characteristics of symbolic in that the product had a special meaning and function by trade mark. Third, tattos were used to heighten the people's union in the various subordinate cultures. By ornamenting their bodies, they expressed their special identity and consciousness. Tattos represented a unique menas, which effected a mood of fashion.