• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.562-570
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• 2006

Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.41-51
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• 2018

Cable knitting, one of the most representative structures of knitwear has been applied to a number of knit items in a variety of expressions every season. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various types of expressions applied with cable knitting techniques to make the necessary data for planning cable knit designs. The types of cable knitting were devide into two categories which are based on the cable knitting pattern and structure. Based on the pattern, firstly, formal type is a reproduction of traditional Aran knit style and is usually applied to a practical and comfortable timeless knit product. Secondly, informal type is irregular applied to patterns and directions to highlight the dynamics of cable patterns. Thirdly, contrasting type emphasizes the cable pattern by contrasting the color of the part of the cable pattern. Fourthly, figurative type is the expression of the conceptual motifs and using the cable knit pattern itself as motif. Based on the structure, firstly, open type is to emphasize patterns and spaces by utilizing open spaces created by the intersection of cabling stitches. Secondly, decorative type is to enhance the ornamental effect of cable knitting by various methods and other subsidiary materials. Thirdly, avant-garde type is applied in various ways with exaggerated volumes or textures using the three-dimensional effects of cable knitting. Through this study, we look forward to the possibility of expressing the unique aesthetic characteristics of each of the various knitting techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.61-71
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• 2008

Knit wear with comfortable feeling of wearing and various coordinations gives new values to the modern people, who seek activities and individualities, and the demand for knit wear is on the rise. This article aims to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Korean knit fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in Korea from 2005 to 2007 had been analyzed. The knitting techniques, and designing characteristics and aesthetic values of Korean knit fashion had been studied. The major conclusions of the study are the following: 1. Korean knit fashion applies various knitting techniques. The knitting techniques used in Korean knit fashion are hand-knitting technique, crochet techniques, lace techniques, plain stitch, rib stitch, and purl stitch technique. 2. Decorations by trimming and matching with different textile materials are used more frequently than decorations by knit material itself. Decorating methods include fringes, spangle, beads, Rhine stone, motif and embroidery decorating. Matching with different textile materials made contrasting decoration effect. 3. Patterms by knitting structure and by arranging colors are applied. Cubic effect by knitting structure patterns, and geometric patterns by arranging colors are emphasized. 4. The formative feature beauties are natural beauty, feminine beauty, and decorative beauty. Korean knit fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various knitting techniques and decorating techniques. As individual activities may be increased in the future, the designs and applications of knit fashion may be diversified.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1436-1442
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• 2002

In this paper, the effect of the loess and mud of an inorganic substance dyed on cotton knitting fabrics have been studied The structure and chemical composition of loess and mud was analyzed. And the Far-Infrared emissivity and emission power, colorfastness, anti-bacterial properties cotton knitting fabrics dyed with loess and mud were also evaluated. The structure and chemical composion of loess and mud was almost identical structure and to be alike main components were SiO$_2$, Al$_2$0$_3$ and Fe$_2$O$_3$. The cotton hitting fabrics dyed with loess and mud have good colorfastness and anti-bacterial properties. when the dyed fabrics was after-treated with diphenyl ether, the anti-bacterial property were improved. Far-Infrared emissivity and emission power cotton knitting fabrics dyed with loess and mud have very good.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.59-64
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• 2006

Knifing parameters specially related to lint generation in the knitting zone such as knitting needles, yarn feed angle and yarn feed speed were investigated with a developed test rig, which simulated the hutting area on the knitting machine. Three different types of needle counts and feeding angles affected tension and the amount of lint that was caused by frictional forces between the yarn and the morphological structure of the needle. However, the yarn feed speed did not affect the lint generation. The results implied that a more advanced test rig was necessary for further study. Also, chemical and mechanical modifications of the kilting elements may be necessary to improve the lint problem.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.77-86
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to characterize physical and tensile properties according to a knitting method as basic materials for solving the difficulties that occur due to the fact that the crosswise elongation is most different among knit stitch at the time of measuring elongation of knitwear. The sample used for this study was wool $100\%$ and was knitted into two, that is, controlled loop length controlled to properties of structure and fixed loop length by using Shimaseiki SES-124S 12G computer automatic flat knitting machine with DSCS device. Also, the density of rib fabric was 12gauge and its quantity was a total of seven of $0{\times}0,\;1{\times}1,\;2{\times}1,\;2{\times}2,\;3{\times}3,\;4{\times}4$ and including plain fabric, and knitted 2 pieces of sample of 300 wale${\times}400$ course. In conclusion, rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.282-291
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• 2010

Digital textile printing(DTP) is becoming more important because the production trend of textile printing goods is adapting to small-lot multiple items. Recently enhanced use of DTP is closely connected with production of high value-added products in fashion industry, which is also appropriate for quick response system(QRS). Quality of DTP depends on pre-treatment, after-treatment, ink, media, printer, etc. One of these parameters, Selection of good media is very important to obtain high quality of DTP products. Especially, the effects of media on printing quality of DTP according to yarn twist and structure of knitting fabric were examined in this study. Two types of yarn twist of 830 t.p.m and 1630 t.p.m for cotton knit were used and five types of media structures were knitted with single circular knitting machine. First, MIU, MMD, SMD's values are closely related with surface roughness of sample as well as printing quality. The hard twist samples were higher values than normal twist samples in the same media structure. In case of SMD, the values increased from plain to corduroy types. Second, aspect of line sharpness, line area, and line width values of hard twist samples decreased from plain to corduroy than those of normal twist samples. Third, line deviation values of hard twist samples, blurriness of line, also decreased than those of normal twist samples.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.334-345
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• 2011

A study on compressive garments guarantee the required pressure and form depending on the type of disease and the state of injury can be used in the preventive treatment of cardiovascular disease. This research is to provide a preliminary data to develop medical clothing products, especially knitted compression garments. Starting from analyzing knitted structure of imported pressure goods to apply to test samples, 11 kinds of knitted stretchy fabrics were manufactured under the various knitting conditions, then their tensile, mechanical and hand properties were measured. In comparison size changes by knitting structure, tuck stitch applied structure showed an increase in course direction and decrease in wale direction. Float stitch applied structure indicated the contraction of size in width because of unformed loops and floated yarn on the technical back of fabric. As a result of tensile properties in tuck and float applied structure, tensile strength was increased in the course direction. On the other hand, the more loops overlapped due to the tuck and float stitch, the more decreased their elongation and elastic recovery were. In case of mechanical properties, as the tuck and float stitch were overlapped double or triple the bending and shearing properties were risen. Accordingly, the drape of fabric becomes stiff, and its surface becomes rough and uneven. The measurements of hand properties showed that the value of KOSHI, FUKURAMI NUMERI in tuck and float applied structure are higher than the plain structure. This results from the relationship between the mechanical and hand properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.35-42
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• 2011

For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre- and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. This study investigated the effect of types of fabrics(media) as a DTP parameters. Especially, the effects of media properties such as yarn twist and knitted fabric structure, on printability and color difference were examined. Two types of cotton yarn twist(830 and 1630 twist/meter) and five knitted structures of media were prepared with a single circular knitting machine. The K/S values of hard-twist samples were higher than those of normal-twist samples in every media structures. It is more effective to use the knitted fabrics of a hard-twist yarn to obtain dark color in the printing above input level value 60 where the printability improvement was most pronounced in case of plain structure. Among the five media structures a plain structure was the highest and that of corduroy was the lowest in terms of K/S values. Also ${\Delta}E$ values and lightness of the hard-twist yarn samples were smaller than that of normal-twist yarn samples when ${\Delta}E$ values were tested by using a standard of a normal twist yarn sample with a plain structure, which was increased in the case of corduroy structure.