• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권8호
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• pp.828-836
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• 2012

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.93-103
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• 2010

The results of comparison and analysis of dynamical features according to Jacquard structure are as follows. Regarding elongation(E) value in tensile property, the value in the direction of course was found to be larger in all Jacquard structure, except floating Jacquard, than the direction of wale. It could be found that, as to bending strength(B) in Bending Property, the value of bending strength in the direction of course smaller in all the textile(structure) except floating than the direction of wale, so that the ability of curve formation is excellent. And in case of floating Jacquard, it showed the smallest value in the direction of course and wale, so that it was interpreted as Jacquard having a soft feel. Blister Jacquard showed the highest value in both directions of course and wale, so that it was evaluated as Jacquard having the hardest touch. With regard to shearing character(G) and shearing hysteresis(2HG) in Shearing Property, Jacquard indicated the lowest value, so it was evaluated as the textile(structure) having high drape the transformation of whose fabric is easy. In addition, normal Jacquard, transfer Jacquard, blister Jacquard showed a high value, so that it could be known they are Jacquards having stiff touch. The study implies that normal Jacquard, bird's eye Jacquard, etc., which well stretch in the direction of a course like tubular Jacquard course, is better to make the margin a little shorter than the basic margin, and Jacquard that well stretches in the direction of wale like ladder's back Jacquard and floating Jacquard is better to make the margin longer and the length shorter than the basic margin.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 2009년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.235-238
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• 2009

최근 생활수준의 향상으로 의복의 기능성이 중시되면서, 건강, 감성, 쾌적 등에 대한 욕구를 충족시킬 수 있는 건강 소재 개발에 대한 연구와 니트에 관한 선호도 및 감성연구는 활발히 진행되고 있다. 그러나 현재까지 건강 니트 소재의 감각 및 감성이미지에 관한 연구는 부족한 실정이다. 본 연구는 키토산 섬유와 서스 섬유의 니트 소재를 편성한 다음 최종 소비자의 감각과 감성이미지에 미치는 영향을 연구하여 실제 건강 니트 소재를 기획하는데 필요한 정보를 제시하고자 한다. 본 연구에서 키토산 섬유와 서스 섬유를 회색계열로 변화를 주어 10 게이지의 컴퓨터 자동 횡편기로 5 종의 평편 시료를 편성하였고 20 대 남녀 대학생 69 명을 대상으로 5 종의 시료($20\;cm{\times}15\;cm$)를 랜덤한 순서로 제시하여 눈으로 시료를 보고 직접 만지면서 평가하도록 하였으며, 감각 18 개와 감성 22 개, 선호도 3 개의 총 43 개 형용사로 이루어진 7 점 척도를 사용하였다. 건강 니트 소재의 감각 및 감성 이미지를 요인 분석한 결과, 감각요인은 '부피감', '요철감', '신축감', '현시감', 변형감'의 5 가지 요인, 감성요인은 '온유감', '안정감', '고급감', '활동감'의 4 가지 요인으로 분류되었다. 색 속성 중 명도 수준별 감각요인 및 감성요인 중 '요철감'과 '안정감'의 매우 유의한 차이가 나타났다. 고명도, 저명도 수준은 울퉁불퉁하고 오톨도톨하지만 안정적이고 깨끗한 이미지로 느끼는 것으로 나타났고 중간 명도수준은 '요철감'과 '안정감'이 감소되었다. 차콜색의 키토산 100%와 연회씩의 서스 100%의 경우 울퉁불퉁하고 오톨도톨하지만 안정적이고 깨끗한 이미지로 느끼는 것으로 나타났고, 차콜색 키토산섬유와 연회색 서스섬유를 혼방하여 편성한 경우 '요철감'과 '안정감'이 감소되었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권12호
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• pp.1477-1485
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• 2011

Dyeability and colorfastness of the blended knits of cotton/rayon (40/60; C/R) and wool/tencel (10/90; W/T) are examined using the natural dyestuff ($Pinux^{TM}$) manufactured from Pinus radiata pine bark extract. In addition, pre-treatments (such as bleaching, mercerization and cationization) are performed to improve dyeability and colorfastness. The $Pinux^{TM}$ powder dyestuffs produced by Pinux Co., Ltd. are used as dyestuffs and their properties are examined for dyeing concentration (0.5-2% (owb)), dyeing time (30-120 minutes) and dyeing temperature (30-$90^{\circ}C$). Dyeability is evaluated with K/S value at 400nm, which is the maximum absorption wavelength for $Pinux^{TM}$. The results show the dyeability of W/T sample containing protein fiber with $Pinux^{TM}$ is superior to all cellulose fiber C/R. A concentration of dyestuff greater than 1.5% (owb), dyeing time 120 minutes and dyeing temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ are the most optimized conditions. It shows that the dyeability of C/R and W/T samples are high in the condition of an acid-dyeing bath and that dyeability highly declined in alkaline bath due to the instability of the proanthocyanidin pigment. After analyzing the effect of bleaching, mercerizing and cationizing (as pre-treatments on dyeability) it was concluded that the dyeability of the C/R sample was enhanced by mercerization but no significant effect by cationization. However, the simultaneous treatment of cationizing and dyeing resulted in far improved dyeability compared to dyeing after cationizing pre-treatment. As for the W/T sample, the effect of cationization was more prominent than the C/R sample. Colorfastness to color changes in the control W/T sample was higher than that of C/R's level 1-2, and it increased to Level 2 when bleaching pre-treatment was given and when a simultaneous cationizing treatment was adopted to the dyeing process. Colorfastness to light in W/T control sample resulted in Level 3 and further increased to an excellent Level of 4 with bleaching and simultaneous cationizing during dyeing process.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.185-195
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• 1999

This study was carried out to improve the skin care property of the polyester fabric by finishing with sericin. It was known that skin care function, anti-oxidation, anti-tyrosinase activity and anti-elastase activity can be achieved from sericin finish. But, the moisture regain of the finished fabric was measured simply, because the major cause of the discomfort from polyester fabric has been anounced to be wetness. The effects of various treatment conditions on the properties of the finished fabric were measured, and obtained results were as follows: 1. The moisture regain at 40$^{\circ}C$ 90% RH were increased with the sericin uptake increasing. while it was not significant for the effects on the moisture regain depending on the treatment conditions like the degree of polymerization and treatment concentration of the binder. The moisture release of the fabric having sericin uptake 1%, 2% was faster than non treated fabric. The change of the moisture regain of the finished fabric from 40$^{\circ}C$ 90% RH to room temperature was 4∼5 times higher than that of knitted cotton fabric. 2. The frictional static charge was decreased with the degree of polymerization of the binder increasing. While the sericin uptake and treatment concentration of the binder were not significant. 3. The whiteness value of the fabric was slightly decreased by finishing with sericin and binder. In that cases, W values of the finished fabrics were above 90 while that depending on the degree of polymerization of the binder was not significant. 4. The major cause of the yellowness of the finished fabric was proved to be catalyst. The yellowness of the finished fabric with sulfur containing catalyst was lower than that with amine group containing catalyst. 5. The effects of the treatment concentrations of the cross-linking agent, catalyst and drying time on the wash durability were not significant.

• 한국지반공학회지:지반
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.157-178
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• 1996

기존의 보강토벽체에 주로 이용되어온 steel strict등 고강도 인장보강재는 주변 뒤채움흙에 비해 상대적으로 변형이 작기 때문에, 설계검토시 과강재 자체에서 유발되는 변형의 크기에 대해서는 크게 유의할 필요가 없었다. 그러나 비교적 저강도인 섬유보강재의 경우, 한계상태에서 예상되는 섬유보강재 자체의 변형량은 주변 뒤채움흙의 소성변형 유발에 필요시 되는 변형량을 종종 초과하게 되며, 이와같은 크기의 과도한 변형량은 보강토벽체 구조체 자체의 안정성 확보 측면에서 허용할 수 없는 경우가 대부분이다. 결국 보증토벽체 구조체의 전면부 발생변위에 대한 일반적인 허용조건을 충족하기 위해서는, 극한강도 보다 훨씬 작은 크기의 강도가 섬유보강재의 경우 발휘하는 것으로 보아야 할 것이며, 따라서 최종적인 구조체 안정검토를 위해서는 보강재 자체의 예상변형량에 대한 평가가 섬유보강재의 경우 특히 중요시 된다. 보강재의 인장응력 -변형률 관계는 강보강재의 경우 선형탄성거동으로 가정할 수 있으나, 섬 유보강재의 경우에는 일반적으로 비 선형거동을 나타낸다. 본 연구에서는 쌍곡선 함수를 이용하여 섬유보강재의 비선형 거동특성을 모델링하였으며,또한 뒤채움흙 다짐으로 인한 유발응력등을 고려하기 위해 Ehrlich SE Mitchell, Duncan등이 제안한 방법을 수정하여 섬유 보강토벽체의 안정 해석법을 제시하였다. 본 안정 해석법 에서는 침투수압의 영향 및 뒤채움흙의 구속효과에 따른 섬유보강재의 부분적인 상대강성 변화 등을 고려하였으며, 이를 토대로 깊이별 각 섬유보 강재의 최대인장력 및 변형량 등의 예측이 가능하다. 본 연구에서는 제시하리라 하는 안정해석법의 적용성을 위해, paraweb polyester fibre multicord, non-woven polyester 지오텍스타일 및 knitted polyester 지오그리드 등 3가지 종류 보강재의 인장응력-변형률 관계 실험결과를 회귀분석하여 쌍곡선 함수형태로 이와같은 섬유보 강재의 비선형거동을 모델링하였다. 또한 이를 토대로 한 븐 연구 해석법의 적합성 검토를 위해, Ho & Rowe가 제시한 유한요소해석결과 및 LCPC, FHWA등에서 시행한 시험결과와 깊이별 각 섬유보강재의 최대인장력,변형량 및 지점별 변형률 등에 대해서도 비교하였다. 아울러 섬유 보강재의 상대강성, 뒤채움흙의 깊이별 구속효과의 정도, 다짐정도 및 침투수압 등이 각 섬유보강재의 변형량 및 전체적인 변형형태 등에 미치는 영향을 종합적으로 분석하였다.