• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.522-537
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a knitwear design with the potential for practical use through a combination of science and design by examining the concept and formative characteristics of fractal geometry and applying them to the development of 3D virtual clothing knitwear design. This study produced five main conclusions. First, the sub-concepts of "Repeatability," "Scale variability," and "complexity," which are based on self-similarity, appear together with simple regularity in the fractal formative characteristics shown in fashion design. Second, fashion fields apply fractal geometry in three-dimensional surface textures and optical textile patterns as a method of expression. Third, it was confirmed that various expressions can be created with fractal patterns by using the SDS-ONE APEX 3-4 design system; moreover, fractal patterns are a suitable design source for the development of Jacquard knitwear patterns. Fourth, in the development of knitted jacquard fractal patterns, by arranging the patterns in perspective, the effect of emphasizing or reducing the human body by optical illusion was shown. Fifth, a knit Jacquard structure with a pattern that exhibits fractal modeling characteristics and applying it to a 3D virtual clothing sample design reduces the time required for sample production while expanding the knit design's expression area and reducing costs. Thus, the clothing sample confirmed the effectiveness of practical knitwear design development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.561-568
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• 2005

The irradiation of Ultra-Violet (UV) is an efficient treatment for polymer to improve hydrophilic properties. 4-Channel PET knit fabrics were treated with UVA and UVC to develop functional and environment-friendly fabric. The fabric was treated with various treatment times and distances from UV lamps having different wavelength. FT-IR and XPS investigated the chemical changes. To confirm the change of surface properties, contact angle, surface energy and SEM were examined. The study of UV as a treatment for PET knit fabric shows significant changes in chemical and surface properties, which is proved by analyses. FT-IR and XPS analyses prove the augmentation of carboxylic, Hydrophilic groups on the surfaces treated by UV. The increase of water contact angle and surface energy means more water wettable and surface energy of PET film was substantially increased by UV irradiation time. The ageing after surface treatment had little influence on the surface energy of the irradiated PET film. SEM proves the surface modification of PET such as etching, bubble and crack. The negative effects are increased in accordance with increasing treatment time.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.295-304
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• 2006

High-bulk worsted yams with different shrinkable and non-shrinkable acrylic fibers blend ratios are produced and then single jersey weft knitted fabrics with three different structures and loop lengths are constructed. The physical properties of produced yams and compression properties of produced fabrics at eight pressure values (50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, 1500 and $2000 g/cm^2$) were measured using a conventional fabric thickness tester. Then, weft-knitted fabric compression behavior was analyzed using a two parameters model. It is found that at 40 % shrinkable fibre blending ratio the maximum yam bulk, shrinkage, abrasion resistance and minimum yarn strength are obtained. It is also shown that high-bulk acrylic yarn has the highest elongation at 20 % shrinkable fibre blend ratio. The statistical regression analysis revealed that the compression behavior of acrylic weft-knitted fabrics is highly closed to two parameter model proposed for woven fabrics. It is also shown that for weft-knitted structure, there is an incompressible layer (V') which resists against high compression load. Acrylic weft-knitted fabrics with knit-tuck structure exhibit higher compression rigidity and lower softness than the plain and knit-miss structures. In addition, at 20 % shrinkable fibre blend ratio, the high-bulk acrylic weft-knitted fabrics are highly compressible.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Library and Information Science
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• v.57 no.4
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• pp.97-117
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to develop descriptive metadata elements of contents of oral history records. First, the meaning of contents in transcripts and detailed interview lists, as well as the characteristics of metadata for oral history records, were examined. Second, elements related contents of domestic and international oral history metadata were compared to identify 18 elements, then streamlined 12 elements were set by removing duplicates. Third, 12 elements were compared with detailed interview lists based on transcripts of 6 interviewees who had interviews on knit business in Haebangchon. The result of this study discovered 1 additional element that designated as 'basic' and these were further categorized into 15 element of 'enhanced'. These elements are expected to contribute to expanding the scope of utilization of oral history records by supporting the structure and expression of that contents.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2019

WKSF (Warp-knitted spacer fabrics) knitted using a double Raschel machine is the three-dimensional knit that has vertically connected separate layers in loop structures. Because of its unique structure, the fabric is light, compressible and breathable. Owing to the high production speed, the use of the fabric is increasing in various areas. The purpose of this study is to establish the design process in the utilization of WKSF program and analyze the difference between WKSF and Neoprene as garment materials.. The study on the design related to WKSF has rarely been carried out because of the complexity of WKSF structure and the difficulties encountered in analyzing the structure and thread. Therefore, checking beforehand the simulation results similar to a final knit using the CAD program for WKSF can only enhance the efficiency of the design for the light knits. The conclusion drawn after designing the light knits using the CAD program and analyzing the pros and cons of WKSF through the various property evaluation techniques is as follows. The tension characteristic analysis results indicated that Neoprene specimen has the elastic transformation and resilience, thus behaving like an elastic product such as rubber. By contrast, in the event that clothing and fashion accessories are designed with WKSF, these products are kept in a boxy style fit so that the fabric can be applied flexibly to a curvy body line. In addition, WKSF is good in forming noticeably around a curvy body, because its resistance shear deformation is lower than that of Neoprene.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.93-105
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• 2018

Using FDM 3D printing, yarn shape and composition were modeled and 3D printed with PLA and TPU filaments currently used for apparel. Based on this, mechanical characteristics were measured to determine 3D printing yarn according to type of filaments in the 3D printed output and deformation and recovery characteristics due to differences in structure type. As a result of examining tensile and shear characteristics of PLA and TPU 3D printing compiles, TPU overall was measured with significantly lower stress than PLA. This is due to high elasticity of TPU's character, revealing that it has better flexibility than PLA. In addition, during deformation due to external forces, the more freedom between the head and foot parts of the loop, and the lower the force associated with each other, the more flexible it is. TPU revealed that it was easier to tension and recovery from tensile deformation than PLA, indicating potential for clothing materials using 3D printing. If high-molecular materials, such as PLA flexibility, it is likely to provide some flexibility through development of styles, including degree of freedom in modeling. Based on this, we provide basic data for developing 3D printing textures that can be satisfied with textile for apparel.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society For Composite Materials Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.292-295
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• 2002

In this paper, an analytical model for the prediction of the elastic properties of multi-axial warp knit fabric (MWK) composites is proposed. The geometric limitation, effect of stitching fibers and design parameters of MWK composites are considered in the model. The elastic behavior of MWK composites was conducted by using an averaging method. The predicted elastic properties are in reasonably good agreement with experimental values. Finally the effect of stitching in the MWK composites are discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.115-125
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• 2006

The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.77-86
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to characterize physical and tensile properties according to a knitting method as basic materials for solving the difficulties that occur due to the fact that the crosswise elongation is most different among knit stitch at the time of measuring elongation of knitwear. The sample used for this study was wool $100\%$ and was knitted into two, that is, controlled loop length controlled to properties of structure and fixed loop length by using Shimaseiki SES-124S 12G computer automatic flat knitting machine with DSCS device. Also, the density of rib fabric was 12gauge and its quantity was a total of seven of $0{\times}0,\;1{\times}1,\;2{\times}1,\;2{\times}2,\;3{\times}3,\;4{\times}4$ and including plain fabric, and knitted 2 pieces of sample of 300 wale${\times}400$ course. In conclusion, rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches.