• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.32-42
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• 2005

This paper aims to propose fashion designs based on the application of art flower technique to translucent clothing material. For study method, firstly I looked into art flower applications occurred in modern trend since 2000 as well as theoretical research on art flower and transparency expressed as artificial beauty. Second, I attempt to express transparency in a variety of unique ways by using the art flower technique in producing clothes. Third, I utilized transparent flower with translucent clothing material and tried to suggest fashion design attempting mixture of new materials. As a result, firstly transparent image and material are well fitted in with modern trend and especially it was very suitable for expressing feminine beauty. Second, transparency was the element to suggest creative formative world in fashion design in regard to flower's beauty, various shapes and colors and to provide infinite materials as design motive. Third, the combination of knit clothing and plastic art flower displayed a new form of material combination. Especially as translucent material is fitted with trend such as function, lightness and variableness in modern times of the $21^{st}$ century, it presents beautiful combination with transparent flower. Fourth, Silk flower technique is variously used in art flower techniques. Various possibility ranges are presented such as flower was recreated with artificial image by silk flower technique to be newly expressed and various materials like aesthete film can be also expressed with silk flower technique.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.87-102
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• 2004

By introducing Mondrian's creative world into the field of fashion design, I examined how its application can satisfy not only visual expressions but also the desire of fashion design for its simplicity, individuality, and sensitivity. As a program developing designs and guiding how to produce, the textile CAD system helps to develop a variety of textile systems. In case of dying or textile printing, a variety of free expressions of print patterns and functional color simulations are possible by the configuration of colors or enlargement of design. It can also confirm the flexible simulation with a variety of color changes through the monitor by treating the knit design with dots. Especially in case of consulting for the design with ordering customers, the system is very speedy and effective, because it is possible to correct on the spot those complicated elements of designs and color sensation and see the prints in the light of marketing, processing and artistic value. Mondrian's Art, beauty of balance and proportion in the Mondrian's plastic forms, the changes of coloring and texture were added into vertical and horizontal lines and the divisions of faces for the dressmaking. Whether they were the reciprocal action of human body, texture and color or the reciprocal action of human body and colors, these changes will be interpreted differently, depending on the individuals' experiences and psychological moods of situations. The emphases of the sense are also different, depending on the activity and functionality.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.41-50
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• 2013

This study aims to contribute to development of sanitary pad meeting customers' requirements by examining types, sorts, sizes and specifications of cloth sanitary pads currently sold in the market, and the results are as follows. First, with respect to materials of inside cloth of cloth sanitary pads, in most cases, 100% cotton knit was used as materials of the inside cloth and the pads were finished with knit cotton(including organic cotton) and woven cotton bias. Second, for the structures of the cloth sanitary pads, the Jacquard knits in the shape of beehive or waffle are mostly used. Third, the sizes of cloth sanitary pads were classified with 7 sorts were discovered that can be divided into liner, small-size, medium-size, large-size, overnight, extra overnight, accounting for the most percentage among cloth sanitary pads. Fourth, 11 sorts among cloth sanitary pads whose front and back shapes are the same were discovered, accounting for the most percentage. Fifth, cloth sanitary pads can be largely classified into a wing type, all-in-one type and insertion type, which includes subsidiary absorption layer. 9 sorts were wing types and all-in-one types, accounting for the most and percentage. Compared with the scope of the market for women's articles, there is no relevant study, so this study is expected to provide basic materials for women's articles and contribute to development of environment-friendly products as an alternative to a disposable sanitary pad which not only causes environment pollution but also has bad effects on women's health.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.46-55
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• 2021

Seam puckering and the seam strength of conductive threads used to produce smart clothing were analyzed according to stitching methods and fabrics. Samples were prepared in a lock stitch and zigzag stitch on plain woven and jersey knit fabric, using one type of polyester sewing thread and three types of commercial conductive threads that consisted of two types of stainless-steel conductive threads (TST and MST) and one type of silver conductive thread (SSV). Seam pucker percentages, shapes, and seam strength were measured. On plain woven fabric as well as jersey knit fabric, three-ply TST and MST showed a higher SP percentage compared to a polyester sewing thread. Meanwhile, single-ply SSV showed the lowest SP percentage. In addition, the SP percentage of the zigzag stitch decreased along the weft and course directions of the fabric, and decreased significantly as the number of fabric layers increased. Moreover, there was a marked tendency for a higher SP percentage in jersey knit fabric compared to plain woven fabric, and the two-dimensional cross-section waveforms of stitches obtained using three-dimensional data that showed increased irregular waveforms and peaks in the zigzag stitch. There were no correlations between seam strength and tensile strength.

• 복식
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.582-598
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• 2019

Intermedia is a term that refers to the convergence of different media. It has not only enabled the delivery of brand message but also developed interactive communication in a contemporary fashion show context. This study investigates the presentation methods of contemporary fashion shows affected by intermedia. We examined the research and theory related to intermedia and fashion shows by accessing articles since the 2000s concerning 252 shows by 30 designers that tended to demonstrate the use of intermedia. Our analysis highlighted four particular characteristics: "medium scalability" (the unity of art and fashion and the unity of life and fashion); "synesthetic flow" (the audience's emotional immersion, represented by the actual performance and performances of the models); "participatory accessibility" (performance participation through action and instrumental support); and "immaterial symbolization" (an intuitive symbol that emphasizes both the direct outward appearance and the metaphorical symbolism so that the object is expressed in a figurative sense). From these results, we identified considerable synergy between the characteristics of intermedia and contemporary fashion shows. Therefore, it might be useful to conduct an experimental study on this area of research.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.126-141
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.69-78
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to investigate of fabric characteristics in women's wear as reviewing the fabric trends in 1990's domestic fashion. As a method to accomplish this research, I have examined the articles related to fashion fabric and fashion trend magerzines. This study considered women's wear relatively used diverse fabrics, there was not previous study regarding the fabrics used in domestic, since the 1990's. The social fators for the 1990's fashion were the influence of the informed, the increased concern for the ecological environment, the sattlement of young popular culture, the increase of resonable consume and social anxiety. To understand the fashion trends of the 1990's women's wear, it is divided three periods. The traditional period is from 1991 to 1993, the mixed period of the naturalism and the technology is from 1994 to 1995, the retro period is from 1996 to 1999. The charateristics of the fabrics used in 1990's women's wear were the appearance of various functional fabrics, the development of new synthetic fabric with high sensitivity, the popularization of circular knit, the fabrics with a retro mood toward traditional feminine mood and the blending of fabrics. The fashion of 1990 have had the characteristics of various utilization of the materials on the base of reasonable and practical trends than the changes of design and detail.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.39-44
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• 2023

As the number of companion animals reaches 15 million in 2022, the pet wear market is expected to grow at an average annual rate of about 14.5% from KRW 1.5684 trillion in 2014 to a market size of over KRW 6 trillion in 2027. However, most of the pet clothing and various supplies currently in circulation are either cheap, low-quality products imported from China or other countries, or expensive products released by overseas luxury brands. Therefore, it is urgent to develop a brand that can compete with luxury products coming from overseas by developing premium pet fashion products using high-end functional fabrics produced domestically. This study seeks to propose ways to revitalize the domestic pet fashion market by examining the current status of global pet fashion, the domestic textile industry, and the current status of the pet fashion market. The suggestions and expected effects are as follows. First, active support is needed for the development of products using domestically produced fabrics, such as raising awareness through various subsidy projects and contests. Second, it is expected that small and medium-sized businesses will be revitalized through the production of pet fashion products using high-quality functional knit fabrics produced in northern Gyeonggi Province. Third, it is necessary to produce high-quality premium products through continuous and intensive support from the government and collaboration between large corporations and small and medium-sized enterprises. Fourth, there is an urgent need to provide opportunities to train experts for the expected effects of starting businesses and creating new jobs.