• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.751-765
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.

• 한국컴퓨터그래픽스학회논문지
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.15-24
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 주어진 옷감 시료의 정적 드레이프 모양으로부터 해당 옷감을 시뮬레이션하기 위해 필요한 시뮬레이션 파라미터를 추정하는 데이터 기반 학습법을 제시한다. 정적 드레이프의 모양을 형성하기 위해 의류 산업계에서 옷감을 물성에 따라 분류하기 위해 사용하는 쿠식 드레이프 (Cusick's drape)에서 착안한 방법을 사용한다. 학습 모델의 입력 벡터는 특정 옷감의 정적 드레이프 모양에서 추출한 특징 벡터와 옷감의 밀도 값으로 구성되고, 출력 벡터는 해당 드레이프 결과를 도출하는 여섯가지 시뮬레이션 파라미터로 구성된다. 실제에 가깝고 편향되지 않은 학습 데이터를 생성하고자 먼저 400가지의 실제 니트 옷감에 대한 시뮬레이션 파라미터를 수집하고 이로부터 GMM (Gaussian mixture model) 생성 모델을 만든다. 다음, GMM 확률분포에 따라 대량의 시뮬레이션 파라미터를 무작위 샘플링한다. 샘플링된 각각의 시뮬레이션 파라미터에 대해 옷감 시뮬레이션을 수행하여 가상의 정적 드레이프 결과를 만들고 이로부터 특징 벡터를 추출한다. 생성된 데이터를 로그선형회기(log-linear regression) 모델로 피팅한다. 학습의 수치적 정확도를 검증하고 시뮬레이션 결과의 시각적 유사도를 비교하여 제시된 방법의 유용성을 확인한다.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.99-106
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• 2007

In this study, the mechanical properties related to the fabric appearance of well being functional bamboo knitted fabric before and after loess dyeing were evaluated. The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-F system, that is, shape retention, draping, wrinkle recovery, compression property, and surface properties, and total hand value of three types of knitted fabric, 100% bamboo, 100% cotton, and bamboo / cotton blend (60 / 40) were evaluated before and after loess dyeing. As a result, it was found that appearance density, shape retention, and drape coefficient of cotton knitted fabric were greater than those of bamboo knitted fabric. After loess dyeing, shape retention and drape coefficient, wrinkle recovery of bamboo knitted fabric improved and WC/C and MMD/SMD decreased. According to THV, the hand of bamboo/cotton blend knit is the best among three samples by compensation the weak properties of the two fiber. Therefore, loess dyeing seemed to be a good method for improving shape retention and hand value of 100% bamboo and bamboo blended fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.460-464
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• 2009

The purpose of the study was to investigate the changes of drapability and mechanical properties with folded yarn conditions. The samples were knitted 100% cotton yarn with hand-knitting machine. Mechanical properties were measured by Instron and Kawabata tester. Drapability was measured by Drapemeter. The differences in each sample were observed in the experimental results. This study showed that folded conditions were important conditions for fabric handle and properties.

• Composites Research
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.44-52
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• 2002

To study numerically the mechanical behaviors of advanced composite materials considering the microscopic phenomena as well as the macroscopic properties and behaviors, a multi-scale modeling and analysis by the mathematical homogenization method with the help of the finite element method(FEM) are reviewed. The hierarchical modeling strategy and the formulation are briefly described first to give some idea of the multi-scale framework. The latter half of this article focuses on the verification of the multi-scale analysis by the homogenization method in its applications to real advanced materials. The first example is the verification of the predicted macroscopic(homogenized) properties based on the microstructure of porous ceramics. In spite of the complexity of the random microstructure, the error between the predicted and the measured values was only 1%. Next, two applications to the process simulation of fiber reinforced polymer matrix composites are presented. The permeability characteristics are evaluated for sheared weave fabrics for resin transfer molding(RTM) simulation, and the thermoforming of FRTP sheet is analyzed considering the large deformation of the knit structure during the deep-draw forming was verified by comparison with the experimental results.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.629-634
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• 2012

Knitted fabric using acrylic/wool blended yarn (A/W) is increasingly used in the knit industry; subsequently, research on knitted fabric using A/W has increased. This study presents an scientific database from evaluating physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W. In this study,$1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were made at various knitting tensions (dial no. 2-6) and the number (4-6) of ply yarn. The physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were measured and analyzed. The density was in the range 5.5-6.4 wales/cm and 4.0-5.6 courses/cm, respectively. The density increased when less plying yarns and more knitting tension were added during knitting. The thickness was in the range of 1.592-2.362 mm and the tensile strength was in the range 32.75-53.63 Kgf/mm. The burst strength was in the range 107.8-139.2 $N/cm^2$. Thickness, tensile strength, and burst strength increased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The elongation and the recovery extension rate were in the range 102.29-112.13% and 96.4-97.7%, respectively. The heat retention rate was in the range 59.3-65.1%. There was no difference of the elongation and the recovery extension rate and the heat retention rate by the knitting tension and the number of the ply yarn. The permeability was in the range 170.5-396.3 $cm^3/cm^2/sec$. Air permeability decreased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The pilling properties were excellent for all $1{\times}1$ rib stitches.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.270-282
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to inquire into lounge wear and Jeff Koons and to design lounge wear in which the works, Balloon Dog(1994$\sim$2000) and Hanging Heart(1994$\sim$2006), of Jeff Koons was applied. The concept of design was appealed as sensuousness, activeness, and comfort. The target of design was teens and those in their 20s. Knit or woven fabric in 100% cotton/silk and cotton blended was selected. The design had fitted silhouette and the items were bras, panties, pajama pants, shorts, robes, slippers etc. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for the design. In the lounge wear in which Balloon Dog applied, main color was red, blue, and green with pale tone and frills and pleats were selected for the details. Elastic blended fabric was used for the comfortable. Variety application of color and patterns were conducted for rhythmical visual. In the lounge wear design in which Hanging Heart applied, main color was also red, blue, and green with pale tone. Halter neck and robes were selected for the sexy looking. Cool and soft feelings were pursued through use of cotton and silk blended fabrics or stripes patterns. The result of this study may give valuable information to merchandisers and designers who develop lounge wear. It may also provide designers who use computer program such as Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop as design tools with useful examples.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2019

WKSF (Warp-knitted spacer fabrics) knitted using a double Raschel machine is the three-dimensional knit that has vertically connected separate layers in loop structures. Because of its unique structure, the fabric is light, compressible and breathable. Owing to the high production speed, the use of the fabric is increasing in various areas. The purpose of this study is to establish the design process in the utilization of WKSF program and analyze the difference between WKSF and Neoprene as garment materials.. The study on the design related to WKSF has rarely been carried out because of the complexity of WKSF structure and the difficulties encountered in analyzing the structure and thread. Therefore, checking beforehand the simulation results similar to a final knit using the CAD program for WKSF can only enhance the efficiency of the design for the light knits. The conclusion drawn after designing the light knits using the CAD program and analyzing the pros and cons of WKSF through the various property evaluation techniques is as follows. The tension characteristic analysis results indicated that Neoprene specimen has the elastic transformation and resilience, thus behaving like an elastic product such as rubber. By contrast, in the event that clothing and fashion accessories are designed with WKSF, these products are kept in a boxy style fit so that the fabric can be applied flexibly to a curvy body line. In addition, WKSF is good in forming noticeably around a curvy body, because its resistance shear deformation is lower than that of Neoprene.

• 감성과학
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.385-394
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• 2011

본 연구의 목적은 20대 표준체형 여성을 대상으로 하여, 소재에 따른 플레어 스커트의 실제착의와 가상착의에 따른 시각적 이미지를 비교 분석하고, 시각적 이미지와 역학적 특성간의 상관관계를 분석하는 데에 있다. 본 연구는 드레이프 특성이 확연히 다른 5종류의 소재를 사용하였다. 실험에 사용되어진 플레어 스커트의 실제착의와 가상착의의 이미지는 사진으로 제공되었으며, 피설문자는 20대의 의류학 전공의 여성이었다. 자료의 분석은 SPSS Ver.12.0 프로그램을 사용하여 통계 처리하였으며, 연구 문제별로 요인분석, 일원변량분석(One way ANOVA), T 검정(t-test), 던컨테스트(Duncan test)를 실시하였다. 시각적 이미지에 대한 요인분석 결과 '드레이프성', '매력성', '신체 보정성', '부피감', '활동성' 의 총 5 가지 요인이 분석되었다. 시각적 이미지중 '부피감'의 경우 G, 무게, 두께와 같은 역학적 특성들과 밀접한 상관관계를 나타냈으며, 3차원 의복 시뮬레이션과 실제착의간의 시각적 이미지는 소재에 따라 유의한 차이점을 나타냈는데, 실크나 폴리에스터 소재와 면, 린넨, 양모소재간 이미지 차이는 소재의 무게와 두께에 따라 영향을 많이 받는 것으로 나타났다.

• 감성과학
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.117-126
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• 2011

이 연구는 감성의류용 형상기억 메모리직물의 제조 방법과 물성을 조사하기 위해 저온열처리와 정장열처리 가연법을 폴리프로필렌 POY와 SDY에 각각 적용하고 이들 사를 사용하여 PP형상기억메모리 직물을 air-jet직기에서 제조하였다. 물성비교를 위해서 PET와 PTT형상기억메모리 직물도 같이 제직하여 4가지 형상기억 메모리 직물시료를 만들고 이들의 여러 가지 물성을 측정 비료분석하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. PP형상기억 메모리 직물에 사용하기 위해 저온가연법과 정장열처리법에 의해 만든 PP가연사의 물성은 절단강 신도가제직성에 문제가 없는 값을 가졌으며 특히 열수축율이 습열은 1.5% 이하 건열은 3~5% 범위를 가짐으로써 PTT의 5~8%의 높은 열수축율에 비해 열적 안정성을 가졌다. PP형상기억 메모리 소재의 변형된 형태를 유지하는 소성적 성능 특성 평가법인 Toray 방추성 평가는 PP소재가 PTT와 같은 5급을 나타냄으로써 우수한 변형 유지특성을 보였다. 또한 PP형상기억 메모리소재의 보온성은 PTT소재보다 약 56% 향상된 결과를 보였으며 스프레이법에 의한 발수성은 PTT소재에 발수처리한 소재와 동일하게 5급의 우수한 발수성을 보였다. 그리고 PP형상기억 메모리소재의 형상기억 특성을 평가 할 목적으로 3D 이미지 방법과 카메라 측정결과 PTT소재와 비슷한 형상기억 특성을 보임을 확인 할 수 있었다.