• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.43-54
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• 2006

In the history of fashion, the category of knitted items was traditionally associated with ordinary clothing products like undergarments and socks. However, in a mere century Chanel has changed that idea by bringing into fashion consciousness items such as sports sweaters, jerseys, and suits, and so it has been necessary to upgrade this notion. As the needs of the times and new inventions have an inseparable relationship, knit fashion was also born with a close relationship with the zeitgeist of the time - the feminine movement, the rise of sports fashion and the world war - adapting itself up to the present time through continuous changes. Most brands are elevating knit from a mere decoration into a collection piece in a large number of collections every year. The number of brands that cannot exist without knit is increasing, such as Sonia Rykiel, Missoni, and so on. This essay is written with the purpose to study the birth, growth and future potential of knit items. The first stage concentrates on the age of knit's appearance (1910s-1930s). Contingent upon the collection of further data, this essay will be continued through the second stage (the 1960s - 1970s) and the third stage (after the 1980s).

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.253-263
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• 2003

The purposes of this study were to find out an evaluation scale that could predict wear comfort and to investigate the effect of the skin-contacting fiber type on the subjective sensation and microclimate. Sensorial evaluation was basically followed by the Human Perception Analysis (HPA) interviewing 144 consumers. Sixteen female subjects were participated in the sleeve wear test with and without wearing vapor permeable water repellent outerwear. Experimental sleeves were constructed using the same double knit by turning inside out to control other material effects except the skin-contacting fiber type, hence each different side of double knit, cotton side and the cotton/polypropylene blend side, was next to skin in each trial of the experiment. As results, it was noted that the term representing a combined feeling of thermal and wetness sensation, and muggy appeared to be a powerful language to measure perceptual responses of human subject among five dimensions of evaluation. although the ordinary users did not use the term very often. As for the comfort properties of double knits, it seemed that subjects slightly more preferred polypropylene/cotton blend to cotton as the skin-contacting fiber type when they wore outerwear and their skin were covered with sweat, although the result was rot statistically significant and need to be confirmed under higher work load.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.10
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• pp.1633-1643
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• 2009

The knitwear industry requires ways to satisfy a changing environment. This study suggests a knitwear design process using a knit CAD program. Such a process needs to implement a CAD system that develops a sufficient knit design system to advance the knitwear industry in both planning and manufacturing. In order to contextualize this research, this study reviewed the current state and problems of the knitwear industry and the market, and investigated the actual condition in which the CAD system is used in knit design by CAD system service providers. The findings of the study are as follows: First, All brands had individual ways to reduce the amount of lead-time. The knit designers pointed out that any given sample product is made in the form of a swatch; after the knitting step and prior to the manufacturing process. In women's wear brands, basting was inserted into the production process in order to reduce the amount of sample losses. Second, a CAD program enables the uses of swatches to see the adequacy of yams, textures, and style that simulate the completed style. Third, this study examined the efficiency of knit design process conducted by the knit design CAD system based on expert assessments, showing that the use of a knit CAD program in commercial knit design proved to be more efficient than in previous models.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to find out more usages in today's fashion industry where various designs and changes of production required. And this research will also suggest new products and new directions to enhance the efficiency of product planning and production in knit industry using SDS-ONE program. Ethiopia in East Africa, knit already has been used as a school uniform. There is a big difference in temperature spread due to. Knit is a proper item to initiate the textile industries of underdeveloped countries. So this research can develop knit industry and lead the trend of introducing fashion in school uniforms. In this research, we use Paint of SDS-ONE to transform the patterned item into color jacquard, and show it on the designed clothes using simulation. It is shown that body painting pattern is suitable conditions for knit jacquard and simplified pattern can be applied as an excellent knit. And it is discovered the simulation feature of SDS-ONE program has a high efficiency and can be used effectively in African textile industry the future mass production base; SDS-ONE simulation can show various patterns and colors with constrained kinds of threads. Since the body painting designs can be applied in various fields, and from women's wear to men's wear, without limitation, we can take advantage of the broad.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.896-909
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• 2005

In need of studies on the kinds and structure of thread, the biggest variable factor in knitwear patterns, this study attempts: to examine the physical properties by thread type to basically establish systematic data in order to utilize various mixture and structure of yarn and to contribute to the development of optical patterns by building a systemic and scientific methods to produce knit wear patterns though a statistical analysis of the relation between the variations and physical properties. The results is as follows: with time, a feature of knit, which causes instability making it difficult to maintain the original shape, related to material properties, the weight and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the variation of wale lengths, though the amount varies by material. The variation of course contraction is closely related to density, the dense fabrics showing the highest values, due to the bust of the human body, the wale length variation of the front is greater than that of the back, by a regression analysis of material properties and the variations is obtained showing the weight, density and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the wale extension and course contraction of knit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.122-128
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• 2010

This study examined several dyeing properties, physiological responses and comfort sensation of cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal. The cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and treated with chitosan showed 99.9% antibacterial property and improved deodorization, and colorfastness. Eight children with atopic dermatitis worn underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal during 4 months. Their parents reported fewer itches of children. Wearing cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and non-dyed with bamboo charcoal respectively, these eight children rested for 20 minutes, then exercised for 10 minutes, and then rested for 30 minutes in the room maintained $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}5%R.H.$ Children's rectal temperature, skin temperature and microclimate inside garment of two types of cotton knit underwear were compared. As a result, the rectal temperature and skin temperature were higher when children were wearing underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal than non-dyed underwear. The microclimate temperature and microclimate humidity at the back of children were lower when children with underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal exercised and recovered.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2008

This study aims to consolidate the qualitative growth of knit design thru the creation of high value-added brand and design, in the state of active trend for competitive promotion of professional knit brand, by collapsing the border line between the knitwear market and the woven one. In accordance with the market situation of increasing a demand of knitwear products, I wish to awaken the importance of knit design thru this study, to survey domestic knit brand products and their planning directions and to plan for the high value-added knitwear products, thru presenting the problems of knit industry and developing knitwear design. This study is focused on showing process of planning and items developed personally by me in charge of developing products practically at the job site of knit industry. From the stage of planning for goods, I suggested the 2007 s/s goods of M company as a strategy of distinctiveness caused by the problems with rival companies, and also proposed a method conducted by the actual business. Setting up M company's s/s concept of the year 2007, I suggested a plan of quantity, time of forwarding, color, fabrics, etc. as well as the process and schedule thru order, and based on the above result, I made a planning for 2007 s/s knitwear for middle-aged women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1812-1823
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• 2010

The modifiable design of clothes is significant in that a single garment can be presented in various ways and can be modified by user adjustments as well different kinds of figurative beauty can be expressed through the garment. This study departmentalized the case of knitwear in the modifiable design of clothes to propose a possibility of a variable knit fashion that makes the most of the knit characteristics. This study investigated precedent research, arranged general terms, created fundamental notions, found the background of the advent, and located specific characters in the modifiable design as well as arranged a concept, type, structure, and traits for the knit. The following results were obtained through this study. First, the modifiable design of the clothes can express the change of the silhouette and the change of the item itself or a change in the item according to the change in the mode of wearing, manipulation, and technology. Second, the results show that modifiable knit designs by open & close are mostly used according to manipulation and have no existence in this study according to the technology. Third, there was a noticeable appearance of a modifiable knit design from 2002 to 2004. However, it was increased again in 2009 after a steady decrease in 2005 and 2008. Finally, it can create effects in several dresses in the visual aspect and functional aspect.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.769-780
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• 2004

This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the direction of the knit stitch course by the difference in the way of weaving rib stitch, the most elastic stitch of all the knit stitches and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, 2/48's 2, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, l5gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results. From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the l5gf weight sample clothes of 0×0 and 1×1 rib stitches looking similar to plain stitch. For the bust, B/4-1.0㎝ knit pattern was made of 0×0 stitch, B/4-1.2㎝ of 1×1 rib stitch. In conclusion, because rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches, low stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.