• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제25권11호
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• pp.167-178
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• 2020

본 연구는 소재 특성, 맞음새, 여밈 등을 고려하여 변화되고 있는 신한복 저고리의 패턴을 비교 분석해봄으로써 시판 신한복 브랜드 간의 저고리 패턴의 차이를 알아보고자 하였다. 6개 제품을 구매, 분해한 후 분해 패턴을 가지고 분석을 실시하였다. 저고리 형태의 경우, 1, 3, 6브랜드의 경우 다트가 없는 형태를 나타냈고 5브랜드는 프린세스라인으로 인체의 입체감을 표현하였다. 외관 평가결과, 5브랜드가 앞품너비의 여유량, 뒤소매진동의 군주름을 제외한 대부분의 항목에서 가장 높게 평가되어 외관이 가장 우수한 것으로 분석되었다. 의복압은 1브랜드의 경우 다른 브랜드의 제품보다 가슴둘레가 작고 어깨폭이나 길이도 짧아 착용 후 당김 현상이 발생하였다. 신한복에 대한 수요가 증가됨에 따라 기성복화하여 사이즈 체계에 대한 확립이 필요할 것으로 생각된다.

• 복식
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• 제62권8호
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• pp.149-165
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• 2012

This study is to understand the characteristics of women's Hanbok fashion in the modern Korea by investigating the features of colors and color arrangements of remaining relics. The summary of findings from the researches and analysis from over 1840 pieces of Hanbok relics in modern Korea are as follows: First, since western-style cloth were introduced and utilized for Hanbok from 1960, the number of colors have drastically increased. However, the most commonly used colors and parts throughout all the periods remained the same. These are Y, R and white colors for Jeogori and Y, R and PB colors for Chima. And, as for the representative color of each of the six periods, significant changes of color were found Jeogori in the 1960~1970s. While no clear color changes were found in the period prior to the 1960s and after the 1980s. Secondly, as for the color tones, although the high luminosity-low chroma were generally used over the periods, it was observed that various colors of low luminosity-high chroma began to be used from 1960 and so Jeogori became more colorful. And lastly, Y and white color were taking up the highest percentage in the solid color arrangement. When composing 2 colors, the Y tone color dominants with R tone as sub-color was the most prevalent, and when 3 and 4 colors were combined, the extra color were increasingly seen in the upper garment cuff and collar so that the arrangement of different colors increased the aesthetic symbols when combined with the colors of the Chima.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.172-183
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.67-75
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is to conserve of golden decoration(Jikgeumdan) of Chima(skirt) and Jeogori(Korean jacket) of the costumes excavated from Hangju Gi' tomb(17th Century) of Joseon dynasty$(1392{\sim}1910)$ and to focus on the development of conservation skill to prevent flakings of gold leaves in gilt paper strips. Up to the present, in case of golden decorations of costumes excavated from tombs of Joseon dynasty, some of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of costumes were flaked away by deterioration of adhesives in tombs. However, most of gold leaves were flaked away and totally lost by wet cleaning for eliminating contaminants after excavation. In order to prevent flaking, preliminary experiments for re-adhesion of gold leaves have been carried out. Firstly, simulation was performed using gold leaf which was available in the market. Adhesives used in this research were water-soluble adhesives(hide glue(cow, rabbit), glue made from air bladders of sciaenoid fish and Primal AC-3444 of acrylic emulsion) and solvent-soluble adhesives(acrylic adhesive Paraloid B-67 and B-72). Because of difficulty in wetting and spreading of adhesive solutions into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, water-soluble adhesives were not proper for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Solvent-soluble adhesives were easily infiltrated into interface between gold leaf and Korean paper and the adhesive force was also satisfied. From this result, the researchers chose more flexible Paraloid B-72$(Tg\;40^{\circ}C)$ 1% solution than Paraloid B-67$(Tg\;50^{\circ}C)$ for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Secondly, using Paraloid B-72 1% solution, the estimations of re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Jeogori were carried out. When Paraloid B-72 1% solution was injected three times into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, the re-adhesion was most effective. On the basis of the results in these preliminary experiments, re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Chima and Jeogori were carried out on condition of three times injections of Paraloid B-72 1% solution before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were survived, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.139-147
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• 2008

This study aims to investigate and analyze sewing methods according to the shape of the inner collar among women's jeogories in order to understand such sewing techniques, which has emerged during modern Korea, and has utilized diversly for the shape of the jeogori's inner collar and as part of the inner collar. The study was conducted on relics possessed between 1900 to 1990, or 515 pieces of jeogories. Jeogories were classified into single-layered and double-layered jeogories according to the shape of their composition. Inner collar shapes of jeogories have also been categorized. It was found that single-layered jeogories comprise 49 inner collars with shapes identical to those of the outer collars. Double-layered jeogories comprise of the following three types: 43 pieces of godae close, 18 pieces in which the inner collar of the outer bodice are cut without a connecting line and the inner collar of the godae and inner bodice are suspended, and 405 pieces in which the share of the inner collar is identical to that of the outer collar. From the shapes of inner collars mentioned above, the following sewing methods have been derived: 1. To sew the inner collar of single-layered jeogories, a seaming technique had been used. 2. Among the inner collars of a double-layered jeogori, godae close was sewn with only a short part of the godae by using a lining, and then finished with overage and blind stitches. Godae close was a covenient way to attach inner collars, and also saved much time. 3. Inner collars with shapes identical to the outer collar are divided into two groups: those with outer collars cut out fellowing the cloth without seam and shifted towards the linings and used as an inner collar, and those with outer collars made of outer linings and inner collar of inner linings. To sew the collar, paste and needlework had been employed, where the methods of needlework were divided into blind stitch, overage stitch, and catch stitch. In sewing with paste, only godae was blind stitched or overage stitched, and the remainder had been painted with paste or the collar had been finished with heated soldering iron after the entire inner collar was painted with paste.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.129-138
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• 1998

Recently much attention is paid on the interest in putting Korean traditional clothes into practical use with reviewing a traditional culture. Thus, this study was made of clarifying the difference from sex and group by investigating morderns' consciousness, manner, purchasing and wearing state of Korean traditional dress. - It shows that since about the half of the person inquired doesn't wear the clothes once in a year, its frequency of wearing is very low. - The main reason for not wearing that clothes is due to its uneasiness of wearing. - In purchasing the clothes, color, tinning, quality of the clothes are important in order, and bright and luxurious colors are much favored. - About the half of the inquired possess that clothes, with most of them having about one or two dresses. - In a sort of their possession, man has Jeogori and Baji etc. and woman has only Chima, Jeogori and Sochima, or so. - It shows that while their interest in Korean traditional clothes is high, the interest in its practical wearing point of view is low. - In case of adult, interest in that clothes is relatively high in comparison with other group.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권4호
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• pp.657-675
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• 2020

This study suggests a direction for design development through an analysis of the experiential rental Hanbok design in Jeonju Hanok Village. As a research method, 268 outfit photographs of tourists wearing experiential rental Hanbok for women were collected as design analysis data from Jeonju Hanok Village. Frequency analysis was then performed by dividing into form, color, material·pattern, and detail. The controversy over the design of experiential rental Hanbok revolves around how and how much tradition is reflected. This is a very important part of the design analysis and development direction. If necessary, traditionality was discussed using the Hanbok style of the Joseon Dynasty as a standard. Development directions derived from the analysis are summarized as follows. First, avoid the distorted shape of skirts. Second, develop underwear for traditional silhouettes. Third, expand traditional colorations and avoid the excessive use of accent colors. Fourth, it is necessary to develop rental Hanbok materials with decorative features. Fifth, there is a need to design flat pattern construction for rental Hanbok that reflects a standardized production method and a changed aesthetics.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.225-235
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to find out the changes for the first birthday's costume in westernizing Korea society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analysed the related literature for the first half the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 136 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, first birthday's costume for girls dressed up was more different than those for boys. But first birthday's costume items for boys were more than those for girls. Generally first birthday's costume consists of Bokkon Jeonbok Jeogori(Sackdong) and Baji for boy's, Chima and SackdongJeogori for girl's. Because the meanings and look of Hogun, Durumagi, Sagusam, Busun and Baeza are good, those items might be to used for first birthday's costume in the future. To establish better first birthday's culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people involved in related business for traditional costume. Because most of first birthday's costume are usually borrowed for photographs. Also item and design for the first birthday's costume should be studied in order to improve traditional cultural products.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.106-114
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• 2006

This research aims to identify the recent changes in construction, design, and technical vocabularies between North and South Korea of the Korean woman's top(Jeogori), which is a main part of her traditional costume(Hanbok). After Korea War, Korea was divided into two countries(the division), and there was little communication between the two until 1972(the interexchange). Thus, this study will compare two time periods: 1953-1972 and 1972 to recent times. Hanbok construction books published in both Koreas are evaluated here to see what similarities and differences existed during these two periods. Women in the North continued to wear their traditional costume(renamed the Chosunot in the North) as daily clothing, but women in the South began saving the Hanbok only for parties and ceremonies. As the North Korean government controlled its peoples dress and continued to make changes, the North kept developing new technical vocabularies, but the South continued to use the same terms fur the Hanbok. From the end of the 1990s, the Chosunot had become more and more similar to the Hanbok in colors, shapes, and materials.