• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제16권4호
• /
• pp.722-734
• /
• 2008

This study focuses on the trend of modern society that places importance on health and happiness. By using gilsang (signs that brings good fortunes) patterns that wishes for fortune and health, the objective of this study is to design a distinct but universal fashion good that is unique to Korea and is used not only as a piece of artwork, but as part of development of new and assorted cultural products that is competitive in the international society. This study was conducted first by studying related documents for the theoretical background. In addition, in order to satisfy consumer demands, a jacquard that can procure international competitiveness was designed and fashion goods fitting to this was planned. Through this, the various possibilities of using the jacquard designs were suggested. The development process of fashion goods using jacquard was divided into 10 stages: theme setting, gilsang pattern setting, sketching, textile plan, design organization, input, simulation process, perforation and sewing, selection of design for the fashion good and goods production. Fashion materials are a very important element in creating variations and uniqueness in the fashion industry. Development of new materials has made the aesthetic and ornamental elements, together with the practical and functional aspects of textiles possible. A major issue today is rising out of the past mass production method of OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing), and developing various artistic patterns that can be used in mass-produced products and assorted production in small quantities in order to develop specialized fashion goods.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제4권4호
• /
• pp.347-357
• /
• 2002

In 1536, two Piedmontese merchants set up workshops in Lyons, and Henri IV encourged further development later in the 16th century. The development of Lyons as a centre of the silk weaving industry was helped by the perfection of drawloom weaving technique there in 1605 by Claude Dangon. In the 17th century, the French silk industry could finally compete with the dominance of the Italian silk trade. The French silk industry was promoted in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV's minister Colbert. In 1667, he published an ordinance creating La Grande Fabrique, a corporation for craftsmen within the silk industry, and Lyons became the undisputed French silk capital. Under Louis X IV, France was becoming the dominant force in Europe in matters of fashion and style. The major innovation of weaving was the Jacquard head attachment, which provided a mechanical means of raising warp threads by a series of punched cards. The are nouveau style did not have much impact on French silk design at the end of the century. Silk manufacturers began to collaborate with haute-couture designers such as the House of Worth. This collaboration with the burgeoning Paris haute-couture industry continued into the 20th century and safeguarded the future production of silk textiles in France.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제11권1호
• /
• pp.123-132
• /
• 2009

Our government has declared the "Synthetic Project for Promoting Han-style" to industrialize and globalize the original form of Korea traditional culture. Han-bok, our traditional folk costume is one of the main subject of this project. However it is the global trend not to wear their traditional folk costume. And so, the number of people wearing Han-bok, our traditional folk costume is also getting gradually decreased in Korea. For Han-style Promoting Project in the future, it is one of the most efficient way for the middle and high school students to motivate and increase the interest about Han-style and Han-bok as the middle and high school uniforms. Adolescent middle and high school students think very important their appearance. Especially, Korean middle and high school students spend a lot of time in school, and so school uniforms are very influential in their mental and physical aspects. Fabrics for this study, they were woven twill with 3 kinds of fabric patterns from the motif of Baekje relics. The colors of fabrics is the blue and brown used in general school uniform, the yellow and red used in Han-bok. Considering the school uniforms, fabric patterns adapted the similar color matching method for not to be found cleary and designed the fabric pattern's one-repeat size is $4{\times}4cm$.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제13권2호
• /
• pp.13-26
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the preference of design and body shape for korean baby-boom generation women. For this study, in-depth interviews were carried out to 11 women who were born in 1955~1963. They are called korean baby-boom generation. The results were as follows; 1) Korean baby-boom generation women care to their body shape, and they make much of the balance of body, not just looking slim. 2) Korean baby-boom generation women become more interested in their clothing, and they want to look with casual image than elegant image before. But overweight women preferred elegant image. 3) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer mix-match style for everyday clothes, but they prefer suit-set for formal wear. 4) When Korean baby-boom generation women choose of jacket or coat color, they consider more of their body-shape than season color. 5) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer plain style and jacquard with metal yarn. 6) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer out-door cloth fabric, at special time, they choose pure wool and pure silk. At ordinary time, they like more comfortable fabric like cotton mixed spandex or wool mixed spandex blends.

• 전기학회논문지
• /
• 제66권7호
• /
• pp.1141-1148
• /
• 2017

Generally, a thermistor made by sintering a metal oxide is widely used to measure the ambient temperature. This thermistor is widely used not only for industrial use but also for medical use because of its excellent sensitivity, durability, temperature change characteristics and low cost. In particular, the normal body temperature is 36.9 degrees relative to the armpit temperature, and it is most closely related to the circulating blood flow. Previous studies have shown that body temperature changes during biomechanical changes and body temperature changes by anomalous signs or illnesses. Therefore, in this study, we propose a Lock-In-Amp design to detect minute temperature changes of clothing and thermistor wired by a preacher as a method to regularly measure body temperature in daily life. Especially, it is designed to measure the minute resistance change of the thermistor according to body temperature change even in a low-cost microprocessor environment by using a micro-processor-based Lock-In-Amp, and a jacquard and the thermistor is arranged so as to be close to the side, so that the reference body temperature can be easily measured. The temperature was measured and stored in real time using short-range wireless communication for non - restraint temperature monitoring. A baby vest was made to verify its performance through temperature experiments for infants. The measurement of infant body temperature through the existing skin sensor or thermometer has limitations in monitoring infant body temperature for a long time without restriction. However, it can be overcome by using the embroidery fabric based micro temperature monitoring wireless monitoring device proposed in this study.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제12권5호
• /
• pp.737-746
• /
• 2003

This research was designed to investigate the preference for underwear and textiles of college students according to season. One hundred and nine subjects majoring in fashion design were surveyed about the most favorite materials among underwear textiles according to each season. The extent of preference was compared by season. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The most important purpose of wearing underwear was the hygienic performance in summer and the insulation in winter. 2. The most favorite textile of underwear was cotton regardless of season and the most favorite type of underwear was fashionable underwear in summer and insulating underwear in winter. 3. The most preferred material underwear was white jacquard knitted with cotton 30's yarn for summer and white and gray melange plain knit made with cotton and polyester blended 38's syro-spunned yarn for winter. 4. From the results about the factors influencing on the preference for the textiles of underwear, color, touch and cool sensation were the positive factor in summer, while insulation and pattern were comparatively affirmative factor in winter. 5. From the results about the sensibility factors influencing on the preference for the textiles of underwear, 'comfort', 'refined', 'naive' were the positive factor in summer, while 'comfort', 'naive', 'refined' were comparatively affirmative factor in winter. From the above results, hygienic and fashionable underwear is required in summer and thin and insulating underwear in winter for young people. Additionally, in textiles, cotton and cotton blended, comparatively light and simple patterned material is recommended for underwear.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국감성과학회 2009년도 춘계학술대회
• /
• pp.223-226
• /
• 2009

최근 의생활에 있어서 가장 큰 변화는 쾌적성의 추구와 건강을 중심으로 한 기능성 소재에 대한 소비자들의 욕구가 증대된다는 것이다. 천연 섬유 중 모시는 통기성이 우수하고 감촉이 깔깔하여 고온 다습한 우리나라의 여름철 옷감으로 좋으므로 현대 의생활로의 도입이 요구되고 있다. 그동안 모시직물은 심미적인 욕구에도 잘 맞아 한국인의 정서에 좋은 이미지로 자리 잡고 있지만 수공예적 생산방식을 그대로 답습하고 있어 전통모시직물로는 많이 이용이 되어왔으나 현대 방적모시직물을 이용한 새로운 직물디자인 개발은 이루어지기 어려운 실정이었다. 그러나 최근 방적모시섬유에 대한 연구가 활발하게 진행되기 시작하면서 현대 방적모시직물의 생산이 가능하게 되었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 원사의 특성과 제조공정 특성에 의해 미세한 감성촉감의 차이를 유발하기 좋은 폴리에스터를 경사로하고 방적모시와 라이오셀을 위사로 하여 현대 모시직물의 개발을 시도하였다. 모시의 소비를 증가시키고 현대인의 감성에 맞게 심미성을 향상시킬 수 있도록 직물문양을 디자인하였다. 직물의 복잡한 문양을 컴퓨터로 디자인하고 자동으로 제직이 가능하게 하는 시스템인 EAT 프로그램을 이용하여 자카드 직물 특유의 고급스러움을 살리며 공정과정에서의 실의 밀림 등을 고려하며 조직을 설계하였다. 설계된 직물은 제직 후 염색 가공하여 쿠션, 방석, 테이블 러너 등의 시제품으로 제작하여 고부가가치 모시제품의 개발가능성을 살펴보았다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제7권3호
• /
• pp.157-165
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this research is to investigate the actual conditions of the manufacturer's design processes. Questionnaires were sent out, and 57 interviews were used as research methods including designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, followed by a frequency analysis using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: knitted fabric goods were the top choices in casual wear. Brand image depended on 'elegance', 'modernity', and 'romanticism', among other lifestyle pursuits. The distribution ratio of the 'basic' and the 'trendy' knit was at 3:7 or 7:3, while the ratio of 6:4 or 4:6 was more common. Knit structure was proven to be the most important factor in the changes in designs. Style and yam ranked second and third, respectively. In addition, details (embroidery and beading), color, pattern, and processing were among the other factors, in order of importance. Based on the difficulty in designing and manufacturing knitted fabric goods, 'manufacturing cost:' 'lack of a manufacturing facility for small production,' and 'limited delivery time' were among the reasons cited in the questionnaire. These results appeared to have been caused by small-scale manufacturers or small-scale manufacturing facilities that made small volume production difficult. The results of the interviews on knitted fabrics that were most frequently used and with the highest sales volumes showed that plain, lace, links & links, miss, and 1:1 rib were ranked accordingly for S/S use, while jacquard, cable, 1:1 rib, links & links, milano, plain, and half cardigan were ranked accordingly for F/W use.

• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제14권2호
• /
• pp.163-174
• /
• 2001

월리엄 모리스(1834-1896)는 19세기 영국의 지식인중에서도 가장 다재다능한 사람이었다. 그의 사후 백년이 지났지만, 화가 디자이너, 제조업자, 상회경영자, 시인, 작가, 출판인, 인쇄업자, 수집가, 교사, 자원보호론자, 사회운동가, 환경보호론자 둥으로 활약했던 그의 삶과 일은 아직도 전세계에 영향을 미치고 있다. 모리스는 오늘날 그의 매력적인 컬러풀한 패턴으로 가장 잘 알려져 있다. 1861년 모리스는 모리스 마샬 포크너상회(1875년부터 모리스상회)를 설립하여, 스테인드 글라스를 비롯한 타피스트리, 카펫, 프린트물, 직물 둥을 생산해 냈는데, 그러한 디자인은 영국 디자인의 향방에 큰 지침을 주었다. 모리스의 초기의 텍스타일 디자인은 비전문가로서 자신의 필요에 의한 자수작업이었으나, 곧 상업적인 기초를 갖고 텍스타일 제품을 생산해내기 시작한다. 모리스는 제작을 적절히 콘트롤하기 위해서 다양한 텍스타일의 테크닉을 배웠는데, 처음에는 염색, 블록 프린팅, 수직 자카드 둥을 배웠고, 나중에는 카펫과 타피스트리까지 배웠다. 이러한 비상한 제작에 대한 직접적인 참여는, 모리스와 당시의 다른 디자이너들과의 차이점이었고, 그의 성공에도 크게 기석하게 된다. 모리스의 텍스타일 디자인은 자수, 염색, 직물, 카펫 타피스트리 둥의 작품으로 상업적으로 생산되어 널리 상찬을 받았고, 오늘날에도 복제되고 있다. 이것은 그의 디자인이 시대를 초월한 질과 테크닉으로 존중되고 있기 때문이며, 또한, 그의 패턴의 세부에서도 볼 수 있는 자연에 대한 사랑의 중요성 때문이다.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제18권2호
• /
• pp.277-289
• /
• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.