• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.1111-1121
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• 1998

The objectives of this study were to identify the dimensional structure of female impression formation based on ornaments and color of jacket, and to analyze the effect of ornaments, color of jacket, and perceiver's gender on impression formation. The experimental design was 3$\times$4$\times$2(ornaments$\times$color of jacket$\times$gender) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli of color photographs of female model and the semantic differential scale were used. Samples were 288 college males and females. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, ANOVA, duncan's multiple range test, and t-test. Four factors derived to account for the dimensions of impression formation. These were potency, elegance, evaluation, youthfulness, and feminine. Wearing of large ornaments(a necklace and earrings) had a negative effect on impression of elegance and positive on potency. Red jackets increased the impression of positive evaluation, potency, feminity, and youthfulness. On the jackets of achromatic color such as white and black, wearing of large ornaments increased the effect of potency, and large ornaments increased matured impression on black jacket. The results of this study mean that perceiverss used large ornaments and red jackets as a salient cue.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.79-89
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• 2017

Sensory attributes and preferences that contribute to consumer satisfaction with artificial leather were measured by subjective evaluation, and subjective hand and preferences were analyzed in relation to its use. Using tactile and visual senses, 50 experts in fashion and textile industry evaluated leathers classified into two categories, suede and polyurethane coated, according to different manufacturing methods. They answered questions on subjective hand and preferences of different artificial leathers of various fashion items (jackets, purses, bags, shoes, boots, furniture, etc.), using specific adjectives to describe the hand properties. As a result, it was found that the subjective hand properties of artificial leathers were related to 'Thickness', 'Fullness/softness', 'Surface contour', 'Stickiness', and 'Elasticity'. The leather type from different manufacturing methods influenced their perceived hand and preferences relating to use. By use, different hands were preferred. The preferences for jackets and furniture of suede type leathers were related to their surface properties, whereas the preferences for items of the other type of leathers were associated with their resilience. On the other hand, in the case of polyurethane coated leathers, the preferences for jackets were significantly affected by their thickness, while those for the other items were influenced by their resilience and surface properties.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.156-166
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• 2011

This study investigated the casual jacket design preferences of women aged 50s and 60s and suggested a prototype design for functional clothing. All age groups liked the casual jacket with a length between the waist and hip, a convertible collar, and a single-breasted design. Those in their 50s preferred fitted or semi-fitted casual jackets while those in their 60s preferred semi-fitted casual jackets. Although, there were significant differences between the preferred jacket designs and ready-made brand jacket designs, most brand jacket designs were casual, semi-fitted, middle-hip length, single-breasted, and with stand-rolled or convertible collars. The analysis of the sleeve styles in brand jackets showed that consumers needed designs that are more decorative. Fashion designers for senior citizens need to design elderly clothing that is comfortable, fashionable, functional, and considers a universal design for ease of clothing function. It will also make the senior citizen fashion market more appealing to consumers. To provide jacket designs for senior citizens, we suggested casual jacket designs for embedding a functional device as well as a new jacket design library for women in their 50s and 60s.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.15-29
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• 2014

Setting the ease amount takes the important part to the fit that consumers satisfies. Therefore, it is required to create a pattern for off-the-rack jackets that considers the proper amount of ease. However, few studies have been done previously regarding the ease amount of jacket pattern for the women in their 20s whose demand for jacket is high and who are sensitive to the fit. Therefore, this study selected top five brands in terms of sales and preference among the national female apparel brands. It obtained a tailored jacket pattern for basic size (55 size) and made the jacket. Then, an expert panel group put the pattern on Hani body, a torso dummy for education made by the anthropometric data of Size Korea for females in their 20s and conducted an evaluation on the ease amount and analyzed the results. As a result, the ease amount of the Pattern A was evaluated as proper and that of the Pattern B was found to be lease proper. From the fact, we can see that each of the top 5 off-the-rack brands has different ease amount, though they are of the same basic size (55 size).

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.55-70
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• 2017

This study researched transition process of fur costume from ancient times to 20th century, extracted esthetic characteristics, and then understood how the esthetic characteristics appear in the recent fur collection. The result is as follows. First, magical meaning was revealed on leopard fur that ancient chief priests wore on top of shenti to symbolize immorality and fur tunics to which christian symbol was added in Byzantine. During middle age and the Renaissance, extravagance appeared on sable and amin jackets that the noble decorated to show off their high status. During the rococo age and mid-20th century, sensuality and elegance appeared on the fur dresses that the female body was emphasized. Second, in recent collection, extravagance appeared on over-sized and voluminous fox-coat, sexsuality and elegance were revealed through mink-dresses and jackets with soft touch and gloss that curved-silhouette was emphasized. In addition, practicality and functionality were shown through short length and light, soft material, and activeness was in the mink jacket to which functional elements such as zippers and rubber were added. To pursue uniqueness and fun, fox jackets were made with over-sized vivid green color. Besides, abnormality and vulgarness appeared through the fashion with abnormal and distracted images with ambiguous forms and new processing methods applied.

• Structural Monitoring and Maintenance
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.165-180
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• 2015

In this paper lead zirconate titanate transducers (PZT) are employed for damage detection of four reinforced concrete (RC) column specimens retrofitted with carbon fiber reinforced polymer (CFRP) jackets. A major disadvantage of FRP jacketing in RC members is the inability to inspect visually if the concrete substrate is damaged and in such case to estimate the extent of damage. The parameter measured during uniaxial compression tests at random times for known strain values is the real part of the complex number of the Electromechanical Admittance (Conductance) of the sensors, obtained by a PXI platform. The transducers are placed in specific positions along the height of the columns for detecting the damage in different positions and carrying out conclusions for the variation of the Conductance in relation to the position the failure occurred. The quantification of the damage at the concrete substrate is achieved with the use of the root-mean-square-deviation (RMSD) index, which is evaluated for the corresponding strain values. The experimental results provide evidence that PZT transducers are sensitive to damage detection from an early stage of the experiment and that the use of PZT sensors for monitoring and detecting the damage of FRP-retrofitted reinforced concrete members, by using the Electromechanical Admittance (EMA) approach, can be a highly promising method.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.934-950
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• 2018

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men's tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer's movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer's activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권6호
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• pp.943-961
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• 2018

This study was to develop an ergonomic Korean male military winter jackets (inner and outer) pattern. First, we developed a prototype pattern and sample jackets based on a previous investigation for fitness and motion suitability of Korean male military winter jackets and evaluated fitness and motion suitability by a wearing test. The evaluation results were positive with an over 3.0 (5.0 Likert scale) for both the inner and outer jacket. However, a relatively low score was shown in the sleeve length and collar front height at the inner jacket and shown in hem circumference, neck circumference, elbow and front neck at the outer jacket. Next, we developed the secondary pattern and sample jacket reflecting the prototype evaluation result and executed expert evaluation. The result showed that the ease amount was appropriate (except for the collar back height) and the appearance was good. Finally, we developed a final pattern that showed good results after evaluation at a Korean military army base.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.315-324
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• 2022

This study aims to verify the sewing technology and the expression of the virtual garment program by comparing the appearance similarity between the real and the virtual power shoulder jacket. To this end, the H and the X silhouettes of the power shoulder jacket were selected as the reference designs. After making the reference designs into real jackets by applying the human body dimensions of women in their twenties, virtual avatars and jackets were produced using CLO 3D programs. The results showed that the H-type with only expanded shoulders and less design variation had a high similarity between the reference photo and real garment, the real and virtual garment, and the reference photo and virtual garment. The power shoulder jacket of the reference picture was well reproduced in the real and virtual garments. Conversely, the X-type jacket, which is a tight fit and has many design variations, showed somewhat low similarity in the circumference items and the basic construction line. Especially in tight-fitted power shoulder jackets, the fact that shoulder angles and the essential items for pattern making cannot be reflected in reproducing virtual models was found to be a limitation in increasing the similarity of virtual clothing. Furthermore, the sewing system gap between the real and the virtual clothing exposed a difference in the appearance of virtual clothing.

• Earthquakes and Structures
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.97-109
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• 2023

This experimental study investigates the effectiveness of applying carbon fiber reinforced polymer (CFRP) jackets for the retrofit of short reinforced concrete (RC) columns with inadequate transverse reinforcement and stirrup spacing to longitudinal rebar diameter equal to 12. RC columns scaled at 1/3, with round and square section, were subjected to axial compression up to failure. A damage scale is introduced for the assessment of the damage severity, which focusses on the extent of buckling of the longitudinal rebars. The damaged specimens were subsequently repaired with unidirectional CFRP jackets without any treatment of the buckled reinforcing bars and were finally re-tested to failure. Test results indicate that CFRP jackets may be effectively applied to rehabilitate RC columns (a) with inadequate transverse reinforcement constructed according to older practices so as to meet modern code requirements, and (b) with moderately buckled bars without the need of previously repairing the reinforcement bars, an application technique which may considerably facilitate the retrofit of earthquake damaged RC columns. Factors for the estimation of the reduced mechanical properties of the repaired specimens compared to the respective values for intact CFRP-jacketed specimens, in relation to the level of damage prior to retrofit, are proposed both for the compressive strength and the average modulus of elasticity. It was determined that the compressive strength of the retrofitted CFRP-jacketed columns is reduced by 90% to 65%, while the average modulus of elasticity is lower by 60% to 25% in respect to similar undamaged columns jacketed with the same layers of CFRP.