• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제34권10호
• /
• pp.1632-1646
• /
• 2010

This article is an analysis of the fit preference of the knitted jacket according to body types for 30's and 40's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point likert scale was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. The data were analyzed with t-test and ANOVA using statistical program SPSS 17.0. The results are as follow. 1. The real and virtual fit preference of the knitted jacket according to body types indicates that respondents preferred pattern 2 for body type N than the rest of the patterns; however, respondents preferred pattern 3 for body type A and H. 2. There were no significant differences between real and virtual fit preference. 3. It is necessary that the knitted jacket follow a similar size tolerance like a woven jacket. The results show that the next generation of virtual try-on systems need the development of a minus clothing ease scale.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제14권3호
• /
• pp.475-483
• /
• 2005

The ready-made clothes for obese women are not manufactured systematically due to the diversity and scarcity of their body shape. In this study, we first analyzed and classified 104 obese women's body shape to select four representative subjects. Then, the four subjects participated in wearing test to evaluate the performance of the jacket patterns which are available in the market and widely-used at the same time. The characteristics of the jacket patterns for obese women were also investigated. As to the highly rated jacket in terms of body motion, it was found that difference between the breast width to axilla and the breadth to anterior midaxilla is larger than the other jackets, and the breast width of front body is wider than what of back width. It was noted, however, that the armhole depth and the width of obese women' jackets should not be determined indirectly by the magnitude of the girth around bust, waist or hip as in the case of regular sized women's. It is because body proportion of obese women is different from that of standard sized women.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제26권3호
• /
• pp.116-137
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop jacket patterns that could fit well for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome body shape and to present a pattern drafting method. As a research method, an educational pattern was chosen through a preliminary experiment. Fit problems of the educational pattern were derived by wearing it on a virtual model with a turtle neck syndrome body type for each neck angle. Based on the three types of experimental patterns developed by supplementing these problems, a development pattern drafting method was developed for each neck angle. Three development patterns were compared and evaluated with the educational pattern using 3D virtual fitting. Fit problems of the educational pattern included: 1) insufficient ease amounts for hip, hem, bicep, elbow, and sleeve hem circumference; 2) horizontal items could not be leveled due to insufficient back length; 3) the shoulder line went backwards; and 4) the front center line did not form a vertical line. To solve these problems, an experimental pattern was developed by increasing the insufficient ease amount, increasing the insufficient back length, and correcting the position of the shoulder line. Measurements that differed in the pattern drafting method of the three types of development patterns by neck angle were positions of back center line and back neck point, front length, and front neck width. Through appearance evaluation of the development pattern and educational pattern by neck angle, the development pattern was highly evaluated, indicating that problems of the educational pattern were improved.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제29권1호
• /
• pp.91-102
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the range of variation for commonly accepted ease in a business jacket and thus to find solutions to the problem of fit and ease in ready-to-wear jackets. This study was based on anthropometric measurements, pattern measurements, which were used to calculate ease amount according to each jacket part. The survey subjects were 493 males, between 25 to 59 years old, buying a jacket at stores in Seoul. In the results, the aesthetic purpose of a business jacket(custom-fit jacket) was clearly observed by the means of controlling the ease amount at chest, waist and hip. The ease at chest and waist(ready-to-wear) clearly revealed a difference among prototypes. This result can be explaned by the regular drops and the similar length-width proportions between sizes in ready-to-wear Jackets. Therefore, customers with varying body drop differences, who had to choose a homogeneous jacket drop, experienced too much ease at the Waist and Hip compared with custom-fit customers. In addition, the height could be an integral factor to affect the ease of jacket length and sleeve length. The ease at these parts was significantly different among height groups and showed negative relationships.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제22권2호
• /
• pp.19-28
• /
• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제23권1호
• /
• pp.118-128
• /
• 2021

This study used a preliminary survey to help develop an ergonomic flight jacket that is suitable for the working environment and mission performance. The results are as follows. The ergonomic sleeve pattern was designed with a forward 165° incline that considers a shoulder joint direction suitable for the motion; in addition, a closely design opening provided warmth and safety from fire. As a result of the dimensional suitability, pilots evaluated that sleeve length and total length of the developed flight jacket were a little long (p<.01), while flight engineers and crew evaluated that those of the developed flight jacket were appropriate (p<.01). Pilots evaluated that chest circumference and waist circumference were large (p<.05), while flight engineers and crews evaluated that those of the developed flight jacket were appropriate. The evaluation of the motion suitability indicated that pilots, flight engineers and crew found the developed flight jacket more comfortable than the current flight jacket (p<.05, p<.01, p<.001). The evaluation of the usability of pockets and penholders indicated that pilots, flight engineers and crew found the developed jacket easier to use (p<.01). The flight engineers and crew evaluated that the appearance of the developed flight jacket was better than the current flight jacket (p<.05). The results of this study show that the difference of environment and mission performance has a significant influence on evaluation; therefore, it is necessary to develop separate military uniforms that included a winter flight jacket to reflect the needs of each group.

• Human Ecology Research
• /
• 제52권1호
• /
• pp.55-62
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women's jackets from the end of the 19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns. The experimental sleeve patterns were selected from the English costume source books that provided women's costume patterns from the 1890s and 1900s. These experimental sleeve patterns were drafted on the basis of the directions given in the source books. The sleeve lengths, widths, and angles of each sleeve pattern were measured. The results of this study showed that the silhouette of the two-piece sleeves of women's jackets in the 1890s had a tight fit; further, they had a sharper elbow curve than that of 1900s' sleeves. The sleeves of the 1890s' women's jackets were 6-11 cm shorter or narrower than the sleeves of the 1900s' jackets. The under-sleeve inseam angle of the 1890s' sleeve was greater than that of the 1900s' sleeve. The outseam angle of the upper sleeve was greater than the under-sleeve angle of the 1900s' sleeve pattern. The elbow curve of the women's jacket sleeve pattern appeared to be a sluggish silhouette. This change happened as the outseam angle of the under sleeve was reduced. This shows that the elbow curve silhouette of the women's jacket sleeves of the 1890s and 1900s has controlled the change in the under-sleeve outseam angle.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제10권6호
• /
• pp.947-954
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제23권5호
• /
• pp.778-792
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify women (aged from 49~59), who have recently emerged as consumers, and their clothing preferences, and it suggests how to make jackets provide better fit and wearability. The results of the study are as follows. In drafting a pattern for size 66 tailored collar jacket with an X-silhouette, it was made with front waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, a back length of B/4+1.3 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 34.5 cm, to allow for easy movement. In drafting a size 66 high neck collar jacket, it was made with a front and back waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 35 cm. In drafting a size 66 sports collar jacket with an A-silhouette, it was made with front and back waist lengths measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, and a side dart of 1.3 cm, to provide raglan sleeves. The last experimental jacket pattern improved the appearance and moving fitness evaluation especially for shoulder and arm movement. Based on analysis, jackets were made and subjected to an appearance evaluation using multi-modules to test the level of wearing satisfaction for each fabric and silhouette. the results of the multi-module wearing tests indicate that the preferred silhouettes caused less stressful situations in terms of both psychological and physiological signals.

• 한국자동차공학회논문집
• /
• 제6권3호
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 1998

In this paper, we investigated the improvement of characteristics of knock, emission and fuel consumption rate by optimizing the location and size of water transfer holes in cylinder head gasket without change of engine water jacket design itself. The cooling system was modified in the direction of reducing the metal temperature in the head and increasing the metal temperature in the block. The optimization of water transfer holes in cylinder head gasket was obtained by "flow visualization test". The water transfer holes were concentrated in front side of the engine in order to reduce thermal boundary layer in the water jacket of No. 2 and No. 3 combustion changer in the cylinder head, which would have a large knock intensity, and increase thermal boundary layer in the water jacket of the cylinder block. When the modified coolant flow pattern was applied as proposed in this paper, the knock characteristic was improved. The spark timing was advanced up to 2$^{\circ}$ in low and middle speed range at a full load. In addition, HC emission at MBT was reduced by 5.2%, and the fuel consumption rate was decreased up to 1% in the driving condition of 2400 rpm and 250 KPa. However, since this coolant flow pattern mentioned in this paper might deteriorate the performance of vehicle cooling system due to the coolant flow rate reduction, a properly optimized point should be obtained. obtained.