• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.83-95
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• 1990

It can be assumed that the ocean waves consist of many independent pure sinusoidal components which progress in arbitrary directions. To analyze irregular sea waves, both the spectrum method and the individual wave method have been used. The spectral approach is valid in the region where the water depth is deep and the linear property of velocity distribution is predominent, while the individual wave analysis method in the region where the water depth is shallow and the wave nonlinearity is significant. Therefore, to investigate the irregular wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water region, it is necessary to relate the frequency spectrum which is estimated by the spectrum analysis method to the i oint probability distribution of wave height, period and direction affected by the boundary condition of the individual wave analysis method. It also becomes important to define the region where both methods can be applied. This study is a part of investigation to establish a systematic approach for analyzing the irregular wave transformation. The region where the spectral approach can be applied is discussed by earring out the experiments on the irregular wave transformation in the two-dimensional wave tank together with the numerical simulation. The applicability of the individual wave analysis method for predicting irregular wave transformation including wave shoaling and breaking and the relation between frequency spectrum and joint probability distribution of wave height and period are also investigated through the laboratory experiment and numerical simualtion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.586-595
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• 2007

The analytic solution of wave scattering of monochromatic waves on a pile breakwater by an eigenfunction expansion method is extended to the case of directional irregular waves. The scattering wave spectrum and the force spectrum can be expressed from the reflection coefficient, transmission coefficient and the wave forces obtained from changing frequencies and incident angles in monochromatic waves. By numerical integration of 2-dimensional spectrum which is function of frequencies and incident angles, the representative values for the scattered waves and wave forces are obtained and the dependence of the transmission coefficients and wave forces on the directional distribution function, the principal wave direction, the submergence depth, and porosity is analyzed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.356-367
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• 2019

This study evaluates the variation characteristics of irregular wave fields for two-dimensional Low-Crested Structure (LCS) by olaFlow model based on the two-phases flow by numerical analysis. The numerical results of olaFlow model are verified by comparing irregular wave profile of target wave spectrum and measured one, and their spectra. In addition, spacial variation of irregular wave spectrum, wave transmission ratio, root-mean square wave height, time-averaged velocity and time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy by two-dimensional LCS are discussed numerically. The time-averaged velocity, one of the most important numerical results is formed counterclockwise circulating cell and clockwise nearshore current on the front of LCS, and strong uni-directional flow directing onshore side around still water level.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.353-358
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• 2004

A transient irregular wave was designed based on ISSC spectrum The designed wave was generated in the towing tank and ,the roll motion of a model was measured A method to predict the maximum roll motion, expected in the short-term sea state, was investigated with comparison of the theoretical and experimental results.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.705-712
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• 2001

It is of great importance to represent the directional ocean waves in a laboratory basin for hydraulic model tests. The directional ocean waves can be expressed as a linear superposition of a large number of component waves with different frequencies and propagating directions. The aim of the study is to check the wave generating characteristics by serpent-type wave generating system in PKNU (Pukyong National University) which is composed of 10 piston-type wave generators. In the experiment, spatial variation of irregular wave heights and propagating angles are measured in the multi-directional wave maker basin. Target wave directional spectrum is reproduced in the area of multi-directional wave maker basin. The directional spreading of the generated waves varied spacially in the basin. They differed from target spectrum as the measurement point becomes far from the center line normal to the generator face, The effective generation area where that target can be reproduced is limited to the triangular area attached the generator face. According to the results, it is emphasized that the effective experiment area in the basin considered wave generator characteristics should be determined in consideration of experimental conditions including structural shapes, water depth, wave directionality etc.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.250-258
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• 2012

The distribution of wave heights is assumed to be a Rayleigh distribution, based on the assumption of a narrow band and Gaussian distribution of wave elevation. The present study was started with doubts about the narrow band assumption. We selected the wave spectra widely used to simulate irregular random waves. The wave spectra used in this study included the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum, Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu spectrum, and JONSWAP spectrum. The directionality of the waves was considered. The cosine 2-l type directional spreading function and mixed form of the half-cosine 2-s type with Mitsuyasu type directional spreading are considered here to investigate the effects of a directional spreading function on random waves. The simulated wave height distribution is compared with a Rayleigh distribution.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.266-277
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• 2023

In this study, fundamental research is conducted for the generation technique and analysis of multi-directional irregular waves in the Deep Ocean Engineering Basin (DOEB). A three-dimensional boundary element method-based numerical tank is implemented to perform wave generation simulations, and directional spectrum estimation is carried out using the results of simulations. The wave generation technique of the Snake type wave maker, generating multi-directional irregular waves, is implemented using the Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) and Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT) algorithms. The wave generation technique is validated by comparing the wave spectrum from simulations and experiments. A Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) based estimation code is developed for estimating the directional wave spectra. The multi-directional irregular waves are tested in the DOEB and the numerical tank, and directional wave spectra obtained from two methodologies are estimated and compared. A correction procedure for the directional distribution of multi-directional waves is established, and the possibility of correcting the directional spreading function using the numerical tank is validated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.395-405
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• 1993

Wave grouping, which is one of the important characteristics of the irregular wave, is analyzed by the run-length theory and the SIWEH(Smoothed Instantaneous Wave Energy History) theory. After studying the basic properties of the regular wave group synthesized using the harmonic waves. the characteristics of the irregular wave group observed at the East sea is analyzed. It is concluded that for accurate analysis of irregular wave grouping concepts of run length and SIWEH as well as spectrum analysis should In examined.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.39-50
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• 2018

In this study, the nonlinear interaction of irregular waves with wave breaking and currents around permeable submerged breakwater was investigated with the aid of olaFlow model which is open source CFD software published under the GPL license. The irregular wave performance of olaFlow applied in this study was verified by comparing and evaluating the target frequency spectrum and the generated frequency spectrum for applicability to irregular waves. Based on the applicability of this numerical model to irregular wave fields, in the coexistence fields of irregular waves and currents, the characteristics of wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater with the respect to the beach type and current direction versus wave propagation were carefully investigated. The numerical results revealed that the shape of wave breaking on the crown of the submerged breakwater and the formation of the mean flow velocity around the structure depend greatly on the current directions and the type of the beach. In addition, it was found that the wave height fluctuation due to the current direction with respect to the wave propagation is closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.189-202
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• 2012

An Oscillating Water Column (OWC) wave generation system uses the air flow induced by the vertical motion of water column in the air chamber as a driving force of turbine. It is well known that OWC is one of the most efficient devices to harness wave power. This study estimated the air flow velocity from the time variation of the water level fluctuation in the air chamber under regular wave conditions using 3-dimensional numerical irregular wave tank (3D-NIT) model that can simulate the 3-dimensional irregular wave field. The applicability of the 3D-NIT model was validated by comparing numerically predicted air flow velocities with hydraulic experimental results. In addition, the characteristics of air flow frequency spectrum variation due to the incident frequency spectrum change, and the variations of frequency spectrum and wave reflection due to the existence of converter inside the air chamber were discussed. It is found that the phase difference exists in between the air flow velocity and the water level fluctuation inside the air chamber, and the peak frequency of the spectrum in water level fluctuation is amplified by the resonance in the air chamber.