• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.31-37
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate the causes of clothes phenomenon of the ruling class women on the Heian period of Japan in the aspects of politics, economics, society, culture, and religion. The findings of the study are as follows. The main characteristics of the Heian period of Japan may include a rare sense of internationalism, low sense of nationalism, and frequent cases of political intrigue. However, noble culture, centered on royal court, was flourished and it enabled to develop sophisticated and graceful culture. During the Nara period and the Heian period (from $8^{th}$ to $12^{th}$ century), there were enormous changes in the clothes, starting from the mid $10^{th}$ century. The clothes of the ruling class in the Heian period underwent changes from the imitative clothes-imitating the clothes of the Tang age of China- to Japanesque clothes-adding the aesthetic consciousness of Japanese ruling class people. Particularly, the clothes of the ruling class women became massive, majestic, and decorative. The changed clothes had also features such as layered look, utilizing underwear as outer garments, using a wide variety of colors, and using hard and solid materials to make clothes. It can be concluded that the clothes of the ruling class people in the Heian period were affected by plural factors such as national and international political situation, economics, society, culture, and religion. The clothes were used by ruling class people as means of expressing their noble and sophisticated beauty, which led to produce humanistic beauty. The Heian period can be described as an era of the highest reach of humanity.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.26-34
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• 2014

This study considered movie costumes shown in 'Alice In Wonderland' by Tim Burton based on the Theory of Fantasy in Literature by Tzvetan Todorov and Rosemary Jackson. The research method used was a case study on expression types of fantasy used in movie costumes with a literature research based on the Theory of Fantasy in Literature. The Theory of Fantasy in Literature has significance in suggesting a new theoretical approach for understanding a visual perspective and aesthetic characteristics shown in fashion as well as movie costumes. The conclusions of the study are as follows. First, fantasy can connote characteristics of the marvelous, the uncanny, and the imitative through a consideration of Theory of Fantasy in Literature. Second, the marvelous is what is not beautiful, not ugly, but is strange and surprising, and what escapes from the existing norm. The characteristics of the marvelous in movie costumes are expressed through cross-dressing or displayed by allowing the personified animal to wear clothes. Third, the uncanny is something that causes grotesque, disgusting, comic and recreational responses. The characteristics of the uncanny in movie costumes are expressed through exaggerating and artificially transforming the body. Fourth, the imitative is the property of trying to imitate or follow other things. The characteristics of the imitative in movie costumes are indicated by dismantling and expanding a form through borrowing costumes from various ages.