• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.559-575
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• 2021

The popularity of K-pop, the development of diverse media and communications, and rapid globalization are increasing consumers' attachment to celebrities. These celebrities, called "Human brand", have a growing impact on consumers. However, research on idol celebrities has been conducted mainly on teenagers. Furthermore, there are limits to the studies on consumers' attachment to idol celebrities who do not advertise specific products and intention to purchase products which are not advertised but related to the idol human brand. Therefore, this study has been conducted on 301 out of 400 adult women in their twenties to forties in Korea to examine the relationship between the characteristics of the idol human brand, attachment to the idol human brand, desire to imitate the idol human brand, desire to identify with the idol human brand and its fandom community, and the effect on purchase intention. For the statistical analysis, SPSS and AMOS were used. The study found that the characteristics of the idol human brand which are trust, professionality, social attractiveness, and physical attractiveness positively influenced attachment to the idol human brand. The attachment to the idol human brand positively affected the imitation desire toward the idol human brand, and the identification desire with the idol human brand, and to identify with its fandom community. Additionally, the desire to imitate and to identify with the idol human brand and its fandom community positively affected the intention. Furthermore, the relationships between all variables were found to have a significant mediating effect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.687-699
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• 2011

Folk costumes in East Asia are characteristic in their colors of the five-element colors based on natural colors or achromatic colors (such as white or black) that imply the beauty of nature or the beauty of naivety. The Asian look adopts forms of Asian costumes into western costumes in terms of structure, silhouette, ornament, pattern, and color; in particular, color had very limited attributes. This study is a comparative study on colors, shown in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look. It discovered the differences of color in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look to discuss the backgrounds of difference. For research, it simultaneously conducted literary reviews and empirical research based on the Asian look. Asian colors that appeared in some costumes of the Asian look were influenced by East Asian costumes, while the primary color of playfulness or color for low chroma or black exuding a contemporary nuance (common in the western fashion) were prevalent. This revealed that the costume that had the attribute of playfulness in terms of structure, ornament, or patterns is adopted in western fashion through the fusion of eastern forms and pastiche. Colors of the Asian look are different from those of East Asia with superficial imitation, in which all the East Asian spirits and symbolism are lost. While folk costumes of East Asia hold symbolism derived from Asian spirits, the Asian look disintegrates the ideology of East Asian costumes and replaces it with a Postmodern playfulness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.102-119
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to develop various designs through renewing and changing perception of accessories by examining various and arbitrary Kitsch. For the method of this study, literature review was mainly used for research of formative characteristics in Kitsch fashion. 798 pieces of work from fashion magazines and website with a focus on Milan, Paris, London and New York collections, in the decade of 2000-2010 were collected. The results of this study are as follows. First, the characteristic of exaggeration is classified into two types: the visual exaggeration, which is characterized by psychological expression through excessive images and (2) the collecting exaggeration, which is not simple but a want of large quantities. Second, the characteristic of satire is classified into two types: (1) the imitation-satire, which satirizes messages to societies with creative humor by using easily consumed materials and (2) the resistance-satire, which is destructive and offensive against isolation and desolation of a capitalistic society. Third, the characteristic of amusement is classified into two types: (1) the playful-amusement, which raises a laugh slyly by using clever materials and (2) the childish-amusement, which involves childish imagination and humor-sense because of desire to be a child. Fourth, the characteristic of nostalgia is classified into two types: (1) the romantic character expressing a departure from modern society, which is desolate because of the urbanization process, and (2) the intermediate character recreating an esthetic category by interacting with different and relative elements. Fifth, the characteristic of inappropriateness is expressed through a deliberate mistake, and it denies existing senses of beauty by overturning common sense and creating new senses of beauty, expressions in distortion and modification of stereotype.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.137-144
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• 2006

Though old generation criticizes on costume play that it is accepted by young generation without any criticism, it is gaining popularity and is settled with unique Korean characteristics. The study is to understand the characteristics of costume play and investigate on the attitude of costume players enjoying it. For this study, a survey was conducted on costume players who order tailor-made costumes or rent them by using references, existing papers and internet sites. The results are as follows. 1.37% of costume players live in Seoul and Gyeonggi area, 37% in Gyeongsang-do and Busan with 21% in other areas. Two areas shows higher rate than any other regions, as Seoul Comic and Busan Comic are held regularly and there are faster exchange with Japanese culture in these areas with enough money 2. Among costume players, female accounts for 73.7% with 26.3% male. It shows that female likes costume play more than male. It is because woman responds actively to what she likes than man does. The number of male is steadily increasing. By age, high school student is 40%, middle school student is 36%, older than 20 is 16% with 3% of elementary school student. 3.61% of them like the reproduction of character costumes, 14.7% like Pancos and another 14.7% likethe reproduction of character costumes and creation. 69.5% participates in costume play both in groups and individuals, 26.3% in groups and 4.2% in individuals. 45.3% participates in comic more than 8 times in a yew, 43.2%, 1-2 times and 11.6%, 3-4 times. Mostly they want $50,000{\sim}80,000$ won costume. 4. on the criticism of old generation that costume play is nothing but the imitation of Japanese culture, 87.4% of the respondents answered 'absolutely not' They think costume play is one of their favorite cultures. 5. on the parents response to costumeplay, 87% of the respondents answered 'Ethey understand', 13% said 'they cannot understand and dissent'. The respondents said costume play didn't affect their school records with 25% respondents who said they got better grades.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.125-135
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the present state of e-business according to the establishment year and the sales approach of Dongdaemun clothing market and to present problems according to e-business activation of it and its developmental direction. The subjects for this study were selected out of Dongdaemun clothing markets being considered as more fashion-oriented markets and were divided into two categories both according to the establishment year and according to the sales approach. As a result, Dongdaemun clothing markets are mainly divided into traditional wholesale market, eastern wholesale & retail market, and western retail market and having dealings with each other according to the market's characteristics. The utility percentage of on-line e-business according to the establishment year and the sales approach showed that traditional wholesale market was 42%, eastern wholesale & retail market 0.75%, and western retail market 11%. This result indicated that the utility percentage of traditional wholesale market showed much higher than eastern wholesale & retail market and western retail market. This would be because the structural characteristics of clothing market delayed the utility of e-business. For the problems on the utility of on-line e-business through counselling, traditional wholesale market showed much higher than wholesale & retail market and retail market because it had little problems on design imitation in retail market due to export by order and mass production. The problems of low utility of on-line e-business in Dongdaemun clothing market would result from well-timed on-line update according to rapid goods cycle, constant satisfaction for additional order, standardization of size and quality, and inexpensive internet purchase despite of express expense.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.218-230
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is -under the post-modem situation- to emphasize the role of women which has various several logic on feminism, to look forward to division of men's consciousness of women, and to reflect a trend to accept the role of sex which is occurring in the system of sex, that is, 'The Third Gender and Homosexuality'. The category of biological and sociocultural on feminism discussed, meantime expressed the sexual logic under post-modern situation, and probed the sexual logic on feminism which was expressed in modem dress and its ornaments by redefining some characters as follows; Imitation-it was to attain masculinity by imitating the body of the opposite sex. Interaction such situations like...... masculinity in women, feminity in men was demonstrated as transvestism of cross-dressing and the symbolic meaning of homosexuality was demonstrated in the shoes of sociocultural on Feminism. Dispersion appeared as a moderation charm and a resistance against the men-ruling culture. Destruction-expressed the fetishism of punk of porny image and maternal affectional image of biological trend as playful satire. Therefore, It is conceived that Feminism would be created true human-phase come true in the men's world as long as the realization of women themselves make the phase of women higher; and further not only propose new image of women but the system of gender.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.1085-1099
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• 2016

This article is designed to establish fundamental design criterion for theme park cast costumes in accordance with play type and space. There is an understanding that theme parks act as a play space that is designed to meet diverse playing desires. To analyze cast costumes, the theme park - 'Everland' in South Korea as an example, area was divided into attraction space and non-attraction space. Attraction space is mainly for full-scale play content areas and the non-attraction space is to enforce the attraction space experience. Roger Caillois's play theory states that there are 4 play types; Illinx, Mimicry, $Ag{\hat{o}}n$, and Alea. All 4 play types were shown through attraction and Mimicry at non-attraction. Each cast costume was analyzed in terms of apparel design elements - silhouette, textile, color, detail, and props - related to play type facility and cast role. Criteria for theme park cast costume designs were suggested based on the results. Illinx cast members who fulfill a safety-checking role wear high chroma warm color costumes with the accent on details in bodice cutting lines, collar edges, pockets, buttons and decorative ornaments. A complementary contrast is also used. The guidance cast in Illinx may wear a suit in bright/vivid color. Mimicry guidance cast costumes show meticulous perfection in imitation with the figure in its space. From head to toe, color, textile, and silhouette - every detail and even props should match the character. $Ag{\hat{o}}n$ cast costumes are strictly limited in detail and decorative ornament usage as well as in color, since they are in charge of the management and operation of a competition. Alea cast's role is a self-demonstrator. Alea cast members should be a real tarot card reader. However, a manual should control their costumes. A total of 10 cast roles at a non-attraction space should be designed to show job patterns clearly in accordance with the whole theme at the park.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.113-123
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• 1998

This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.400-410
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• 2017

Bactria was the intersection of transportation between Greece-Iran and Central Asia at the Silk Road. This kingdom was Greek in all of its ruling classes. Because the Greek culture of Bactria spread to India and the east, Bactria was a very important place in ancient civilizations. The purpose of this study is to understand the life and the various cultures of Bactria and the influence of Greek culture on the costumes of Bactria. The research method was approached through the analysis of the empirical data. Data on antiquities were analyzed in European exhibition catalogs and secondary data collected from Internet. The results of this study are as follows: First, the original costume of Bactria was identified in two styles in the reliefs of the Persian Achaemenid. One is the tunic jacket sarapis that goes down to the knee and wide trousers with half-length boots. The other is the Scythian style trousers that looks like a barrel in a Sarapis. Second, in the Bactrian coin depicting the bust of the Bactrians, the hair styles and headgear of the Bactrian kings were analyzed. The Bactrians wore braids with short curly hair and wore Macedonian hats and helmets on them. Third, the relics excavated from the ruins of Ai-Khanuom depicted the forms of the ruling classes of Bactria. The dress styles and hair styles of gods and priests were imitating the form of the Greek costume as it is.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.13-30
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyzed the types of Deformation dipicted on the late 1990s western costumes. The late 20th century cultural experience or lifestyle is interpreted with 'popular culture' ,popular culture is described as cultural phenomenon in postmodern condition. Contemporary popular culture may no longer be strictly 'working-class' as the idealistic purists of political formalism would like to , but does emerge from subordinate cultures, from the inventive edges of the consensus, and from the previously ignored and suppressed. It gestured through a widening democratization of styles, sounds and images, to an important remarking , to new possibilities , new perpectives, new projects. The growing importance of popular culture as a source for change of expression in the art, expecially new desire and will of artists has been caused lots of ' Deformation' in their works. Deformation, doesn't mean to represent object faithfully as it were seen through the artist's eyes. In a sense it implies that artists deform it with conscious or unconscious form. So in this study , the phenomenon of the postmodern western costumes is to describe ' formative language' called 'Deformation.' and it is classified three types, that is, 'Deformation of human-body image.' , Deformation of silhouette.' 'Deformation of detail.'. First , Deformation of human-body image is represented by deconstructive , subversive image in western costumes, a lot of costumes types of deconstruction have been shown by fashion designers are emphasized empathy with Deformation of human-body image. Second, Deformation of silhouette is also represented subversion of traditional manner and ultiity, underwear and outwear structure and ugly image. parody image of postumodernism , and so on. Above all, the late 1990s western costumes with Deformation of silhouette was an infinitely larger and more complex world than it appeared from outside and has expressed as a rejection against the values which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued, And parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about parodox, irony, contempt, satire , unexpectedness by applying the original to inapproporate subject through its substition, inversion. Third, Deformation of detail is represented overdecoration, exaggerative distortion of for , overlapping and fetish image, parody image, kitsch image, and so on , Once fetish achieve a certain' style factor' among trendsettler, they are picked up by internationally famous fashion designers, The characteristics of kitsch are overdecoration , unfitness , imitation , used western costumes.