• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.99-113
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• 2018

In this study, the reality of international Gothic style was examined through the representative art of the period, such as paintings, architecture and tapestries. In particular zones of the body were examined by applying Harold Koda's methods of discussing extreme beauty to study the phenomena and characteristics of extremes in late Gothic costumes. This arrived at the following conclusions concerning the phenomena and characteristics of the extreme appearing in the late Gothic costumes. First, a mechanism of body transformation to reach the ideal and desired form of a human. Second, the complicated and various extremeness of the whole human body. Third, the reflection of 'elaborate and secular excess, decorative taste of international Gothic style. Fourth, a early advanced case of the Trickle-down fashion and international sensation. Fifth, the aesthetic insight into 'ugliness', ever pursued in 'extreme beauty'. The researcher expects that the results of this study will contribute to the preparation to renew the significance of, and to restore the status of the late Gothic costumes, in terms of costume history, that has been considered as an age of the bizarre tastes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.35-50
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• 2011

In this study, repression of the body is defined as a restriction on natural developments or movements and a modification either temporarily or permanently of the human body in shape, color, texture and odor. In addition, it involves physical and (or) mental pain. Chinese foot-binding and the Western corset are extreme examples of female body's being repressed in the history of fashion. The analysis of this type of repression will be based on historical research and theoretical concepts such as Darwin's (1809-1882) survival condition, Freud's (1856-1939) renunciation of desire, Weil's (1909-1943) privilege, and Foucault's (1926-1984) L'Usage des Plaisirs(the use of pleasure). Chinese foot-binding symbolically represents ideal beauty, the distinction of an ethnic group, and a desire for improved social status in the struggle for political power. It also represents psychology and a esthetics of eroticism and fetishism that originate from a man's desire and his individual taste. Symbolically, the Western corset represents abundance and fecundity, obedience and devotion to religion, the sanctity of God and ideal beauty as defined by political power. It also represents psychology and aesthetics of eroticism and fetishism as man's desire and a fashion icon. In conclusion, Chinese foot-binding was pursuit of power in male ideology but Western corset was a power struggle between God and mankind.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.12 s.159
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• pp.1737-1746
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to present a concrete image of the ideal beauty as shown in era preceding 1945 that effects the shaping of our aesthetic values; by analyzing its characteristics through the covers of women's magazines of that period, this research aims to promote the understanding of beauty of the human body. The scope of my research extends throughout the collection of women's magazines stored in the National Library and the Korea Magazine Information Center. The gathered research materials are: 5 kinds of Shin-Yeo-Sung (신여성), 51 kinds Yeo-Sung(여성) and 30 kinds of Ga-Jung-Ji-Woo(가정지우). The result of the research could be summarized as the followings. Before the 1920's in response to the violent opening, there was a trend of sticking to the traditional standard. In the 1920's, the prevalent images of women were meek and fragile. Japanese standard of beauty was explicitly indicated. In the 1930s, as Western movies started to be shown to the general public, western features were idealized and furthermore intelligence was required as a further condition. In the 1940s, preparation of the war led to encouragement of images of motherhood and natural beauty, and resistant to this trend led to pseudoclassicism.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.113-122
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to examine and understand body image, appearance behaviors, and eating disturbances among females in the Diet Center. Subjects for this research were 40 females enrolled at the Diet Center in Seoul. They were interviewed for this study using an interview schedule at September in 2004. As a result, most of the subjects (87%) were dissatisfied with their bodies, especially their lower body such as hip, thighs, legs, stomach. Subjects tended to use dieting and fasting (46.3%) as the most common appearance management behaviors in relation to the body parts. Make-up (32.9%) was also used as routine appearance behaviors, while 37.5% of subjects have had cosmetic surgery on eyes, nose and liposuction. Sixty percent of subjects had participated in Diet center programs more than twice. This may mean that society pressures women to have a slim body, which then will result in more self-confidence. Subjects tend to engage in unhealthy eating behaviors, such as 'fasting', 'inducing vomit', 'using diet pills or laxatives', and 'after chewing, spit out'. Based on these results, socio-cultural body image regarding ideal beauty would be discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.125-140
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• 2000

The major findings of basic women wear in genre painting were ; 1. Due to the influence of Shill-Hak (practical science) philosophy, Jeogori became shorter and a tighter fit came to be the norm. 2,. The shortening of the Jeogori influenced a longer Chima with a wider span providing comfort in movement or at work. The end of the skirt was often held by one hand to the waist adding to comfort. This was called the Go-dul-chima(Lifted Chima). 3. Because the Geo-dul-chima exposed a portion of one underwear at the bottom of the dress this influenced the "irnamentation' of underpants and underskits. 4. Collars or lapels came in the form of Dang-ko, Kal, Mok-pan and Ban-Mokpan. Among there Dang-ko style collars were the most common which allows us to conclude that this was the most popular. 5. The most commonly used colors for Jeogori were white (39.8%) and jade(18.3%) . The most commonly used colors for CHima were deep blue(34.4%) and jade(20.4%) . The lower Chima used the darkercolors to give stability to the overall costume. 6. Clothing had the function of differentiating the classes. Only the Yang-ban were allowed to wear the Samhijang Jeogori and the Gob-Chima(double layered Chima) and the knotting of the Chima to the left. But the painting show that these rules were not adhered to in the strictest manner. With the bases of these types of chima and Jeogori can look at the characteristical beauty of the ordinary women during the late Cho-sun dynasty. First is the beauty which comes from mystery of those parts of body which can not be seen. A sense of subtle and sensual beauty as well as that coming from the enlargement of reduction of the upper body, narrow waist and abundant lower body parts creating an ideal silhouette of sexual charm. An expression of emotion through clothing by those who lived during those times.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.125-133
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• 2005

The purpose at this study was to examine and understand shopping behaviors and body image among Korean females in U.S. Subjects for this research were 20 Korean housewives. They were interviewed for this study using an interview schedule. As a result, most at the subjects have enjoyed shopping in U.S. stores. They showed that they go shopping more often in U.S. than in Korea due to more time to shop. They considered refund policy and kind salespersons as th positive characteristics in U.S. stores, while they complained about size, quality, and style in even their favorite stores. Also, subjects tend to be dissatisfied with their bodies. Compared to how they feel in Korea, they especially feel lower body image and lower self-esteem in the U.S. Ninety percent of subjects considered their body affected their shopping behaviors. To compensate how they felt about their bodies, they responded that they limit or change clothing styles or colors when they shopped. Based on these results, socio-cultural body image regarding ideal beauty and shopping behavior would be discussed.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.431-444
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• 2008

Today people obtain much information about appearances through movies. The stars' body images in movies have been created through total fashion as they play the roles of an ideal model to create actual body images. This study examined the relations between the body images in the film media in terms of appearances or total fashion and actual body images based on the simulation theory by Jean Baudrillard. It conducted a literature study by collecting and analyzing film media-related picture images from books, papers, periodicals and the Internet home and abroad. The research scope was limited to the stars who made appearances in movies and the ones who starred in movies in addition to their other lines of work. As a result, the following conclusions were drawn; the stars' body images went hyperreal between their actual body images and the ones of their roles in movies and then were simulated in fashion. To be specific, 1. the stars' actual body images went hyperreal and were simulated in fashion in the following cases; 1) the stars in the heyday of film; 2) fashionistas; and 3) pictures taken by paparazzi. 2. The body images of their roles went hyperreal in the following cases; 1) through brand participation; 2) through changed body images; and 3) through cyber body images. Their body images became hyperreal and were simulated in fashion by the input of fashion designers and the techniques of other areas. The body images in film are the object of desire to the audience. They go hyperreal and become the ideal body image to real people. The various kinds of hyperreal images in the film media create new beauty as a reference and object of comparison for people to change their body images in reality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.5-20
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• 1995

The fashion of late Yi dynasty had explored a possibility of new fashional beauty from its own experiences throughout the history of Korean fashion excluding any interference of foreign fashions, and brought out some characteristics ; first, the aesthetical value focused on the more human fashion resulted in the exposure of waist. This aesthetical change in the fashion of late Yi dynasty produced out results as follows ; the length and width of jacket became short and narrow maintaining the basic form, while the width of skirt became increased to be contrasted exceptionally with the upper coat. This mode of fashion reveals the transitional movement from the emphasis on balance to that on unbalance in the late period of Yi dynasty. But regarding the fact that the proportional change by the ways of putting on skirt became to be similar to the golden ratio, we can see many examples throughout the folk paintings by Shin Yun bok, we find that the fashional beauty of that age pursued ideal harmony and unity all the time being in spite of its tendency toward non-refinement. Second, we see another peculiarity in the mode of woman's fashion from the paintings by Shin Yun-bok who always depicted the hu-man nature frankly. For example, the jacket became shorter to emphasize lady's slim waist, and underwears began to be exposed after the upper part of skirt had been to expose lady's waist while the bottom line pulled up highter than before. Thus, as the function of robe had changed from a mere means of covering into an expression of beauty, the fashion of late Yi dynasty began to express a perfectly new beauty possessing an erotic mood and sensu-ality of a woman, which was its inner aesthetic need. Third, this emergence of new fashional beauty made the mental value of man and the aesthetic views of that time quite different from the previous ones, and finally there came various expressions of a new beauty. There-fore, the woman's fashion of late Yi dynasty is noted for the exposure and emphasis on the body line of a woman after the aesthetic view-point had changed of time toward pragmatism and humanism, while upholding the traditions of Korean clothes and pride for the nation. And our ancestors realized very Korean fashional beauty by pursuing the expressional ways of gentle, indirect emphasis upon the feminine and natural beauty to exclude and ar-tificial, direct and straightforward exposures and images.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.193-210
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to compare the similarity of clothing between Modern and Gothic, and between Post-Modern and Renaissance Period. The results are as followes: The beauty of ideal body was changed from unemphasis of body line to emphasis of the erotic espects of body. The style of clothing was changed from simple and functional in order to give freedom in action, to various and complicated in from, and even uncomfortable in order to emphasize individuality. Decoration on clothing like details, trimmings, and various accessories were not prefered in Gothic and Modem Period, but very popular in Post-Modern and Renaissance Period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.24-36
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• 2006

The consumption became a virtue of social in 20th century, and this consumption culture created an ideal body image through mass media. Sexual image became a new standard of 'beauty' in a modern fashion, and designs which expressed sexual image appear every season. Individuals were fascinated with some parts of human body. These body parts are different based on the time period and the culture that the individual belonged to. This study focused on the erotic body parts and expression on the editorial fashion photography. Eroticism represented in the editorial fashion photographs can be divided into the expression by clothing design and by creating erotic atmospheres. Erotic expressions by clothing design can be presented by 1)exposing directly 2)exposing indirectly 3)emphasizing the body parts. The most frequently presented erotic body parts in fashion photographs were legs(25%), followed by the bodice with breast (21%), the waist (16%), the hip (12%), neck & shoulder (10%), arms (9%), and abdomen (7%). The results indicated that legs were considered to be a erotic body parts often than the traditionally referred erotic body parts, such as bodice with breast or hip. While direct exposing method (e.g., adhesion, see-though) was frequently used for other body parts.