• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.83-92
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Fagopyrum esculetum extracts were investigated. Fagopyrum esculetum used for this study is hulls and dehulled seeds. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activities($FSC_{50}$) and reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions from Fagopyrum esculetum were measured. The aglycone($3.5{\pm}0.0{\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fractions($0.2{\pm}0.1{\mu}g/mL$) of hulls showed the most effective scavenging activities. The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect(${\tau}_{50},\;771.7{\pm}9.9 min$ at 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction of hull and dehulled seeds on tyrosinase were examined ($53.6{\pm}0.5{\mu}g/mL,\;35.6{\pm}0.4{\mu}g/mL$, respectively). And The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction of hull and dehulled seeds on elastase were investigated($3.7{\pm}0.4{\mu}g/mL\;and\;6.0{\pm}0.7{\mu}g/mL$ respectively). But 50% ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tyrosinase and elastase. (+)-Catechin and (-)-epicatechin were contained in ethyl acetate fraction of dehulled seeds. And ethyl acetate fraction of hull contains flavonoids of hyperin, quercetin, rutin and so on. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Fagopyrum esculentum can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Fagopyrum esculentum extract could be used as a new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.189-200
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Quercus glauca extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity $(FSC_{50})$ of extract I fractions of Quercus glauca leaf was in the order: 50% ethanol extract $(12.45{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(10.47{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(8.57{\mu}g/mL)$. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities $(OSC_{50})$ of some Quercus glauca leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was 50% ethanol extract $(OSC_{50},\;4.2{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(1.58{\mu}ug/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(0.66{\mu}g/mL)$. Ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Quercus glauca leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Quercus glauca leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a dose dependent manner, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect $({\tau}_{50}$, 398.67 min at $50{\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Quercus glauca leaf extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments (360 nm) as well. Two components were identified as quercetin (55.77%), and kaempferol (44.23 %). TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Quercus glauca leaf extracts revealed 6 bands $(QG1{\sim}QG6)$, Among them, isoquercitrin (QG3), hyperin (QG4), and rutin (QG6) were identified. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on tyrosinase $(IC_{50},\;73.5{\mu}g/mL)$ and elastase $(IC_{50},\;16.2{\mu}g/mL)$ was high. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Quercus glauca can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Quercus glauca leaf extract and inhibitory activity on tyeisinase and elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.233-244
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase, and component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities $(FSC_{50})$ of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf were in the order: 50% ethanol extract $(7.05{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(3.36{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.24{\mu}g/mL)$. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities $(OSC_{50})$ of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50% ethanol extract $(OSC_{50},\;2.17{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(0.64{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.39{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Psidium guajava leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner $(1{\sim}10{\mu}g/mL)$, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect ${\tau}_{50}\;107.5min\;at\;1{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Psidium guajava leaf extracts, showed 1 band in TLC and 1 peak in HPLC experiments (360 nm). One component was identified as quercetin. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Psidium guajava leaf extract revealed 5 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 5 peaks, which were identified as quercetin 3-O-gentobioside (10.32%) , quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-glucoside (isoquercitin, 13.30%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-galactoside (hyperin, 11.34%), quercetin 3-O-${\alpha}$-L-arabinoside (guajavarin, 19.70%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-L-rhamnoside (quercitrin, 45.33%) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of Psidium guajava leaf extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on tyrosinase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(149.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(30.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(17.10{\mu}g/mL)$. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on elastase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(6.60{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(5.66{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(3.44{\mu}g/mL)$. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf can function as antioxidants in bioloigcal systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.259-268
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Castanea crenata leaf were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Castanea crenata left was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($13.6{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.2) < aglycone fraction (2.1). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$ of extract / fractions from Castanea crenata leaf extract / fractions on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was in the order: aglycone fraction (0.8) < 50% ethanol extract (0.5) < ethyl acetate fraction (0.3). The scavenging activity ($IC_{50}$ for ${O_2}^{{\cdot}\;-}$ (superoxide anion radical) generated by NBT method was in the order: ethyl acetate fraction (145.5) < aglycone fraction (65.5). The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, $191.9{\pm}12.2\;min$ at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($9.1{\mu}g/mL$) on elastase was higher than oleanolic and ($13.7{\mu}g/mL$). And the inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($21.6{\mu}g/mL$) on tyrosinase was higher than arbutin ($226.2{\mu}g/mL$). But 50% ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tryosinase and elastase. Flavonoids were contained in Castanea crenata left (96.3 mg / 100 g dried Castanea crenata leaf). And flavonoids contained in ethyl acetate fraction were kaempferol, quercetin, quercitrin, and so on. Quercitrin is the most abundant component. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Castanea crenata can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging free radical and ROS, Castanea crenata leaf extract/ fractions could be used as new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.