• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.159-165
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• 2004

This study described about method that forms liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in O/W emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following, to form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by 4.0wt% of HL as a booster. Moisturizers contained 2wt% of glycerin and 3.0wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), 3.0wt% of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), 3.0wt% of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions (pH=4.0-11.0). Considering safety of skin, pH was the most suitable 6.0${\pm}$1.0 ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in 32 dyne/$\textrm{cm}^2$. Particle of LCG is forming size of 1-20$\mu\textrm{m}$ range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in 1-6$\mu\textrm{m}$ range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi -layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased 36.6%. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.2 s.51
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• pp.141-146
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• 2005

Unstable cosmetic active ingredients could rapidly break down in chemical and photochemical process. Therefore, it has become a very important issue to encapsulate active ingredient for the stabilization. 7-Dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC), a precursor of vitamin $D_3$, has been shown to increase levels of protein and mRNA for heat shock protein in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. However, topical dermal application of 7-DHC is restricted due to its poor solubility and chemical unstability. In this study, 7-DHC was incorporated into nano-emulsion (NE), solid lipid nano-particle (SLN), and chitosan coated solid lipid nano-particle (CASLN), respectively. In order to prepare NE and SLN dispersion, high-pressure homogenization at temperature above the melting point of lipid was used Hydrogenated lecithin and polysorbate 60 were used as stabilizer for NE and SLN. CASLN was prepared by high speed homogenizing after adding chitosan solution to the SLN dispersion and showed positively charged particle properties. Decomposition rate of 7-DHC in NE, SLN and CASLN was studied as a function of time at different temperature. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and X-ray diffraction (XRD) studies were performed to characterize state of lipid modification. It appeared that CASLN is the most effective to stabilize 7-DHC and may be used for a useful topical dermal delivery system.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.279-294
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• 2004

This study described about a liquid crystalline technology that is used in cosmetics industry. Various intermediate phases may exist between solid and liquid. At high surfactant concentration, several liquid crystalline phases can be made to have formed. Although molecular arrangement with crystallization is not regular, it is known that more relative regular state is liquid crystalline or meso-phase than liquid phase. Usually, it described in detail about manufacturing method that explained about a kind of liquid crystalline technology in cosmetics, a new liquid crystalline technology, and makes liquid crystalline. Specialty, it introduced about kind of special an emulsifier to form liquid crystalline. There were hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, DEA-cetyl phosphate, Gemini-surfactant in representative raw material to form liquid crystalline. Liquid crystalline extent that used polarization microscope to observe formation, and appears best from 400times, 600times, 1,000times well appeared. Also, droplet particle size that liquid crystal is made best 1.0-10.0$\mu\textrm{m}$ be. General emulsion more than superior result that measures the skin moisturizing effect to take advantage of liquid crystalline technology of vitamin was seen. As presence at a clinical result, wave and general emulsion more than superior result (more than 20%) that measures skin moisturizing effect about liquid crystalline of vitamin B$\_$5/ were seen (ANOMA t-test, p<0.05)

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.178-191
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• 2003

OMC is essentialiy necessary compound in sun goods as organic UV protecting products. But the skin-trouble problem is raising because of skin penetration of OMC. In this study, non-capsulated pure OMC was compared with Organic-Inorganic-Nano-hybrid OMC for skin penetration force and SPF degree. Organic- Inorganic Nano-Hybrid OMC is OMC trapped in the pore of the mesoporous silica synthesized by the sol-gel method after OMC is nanoemulsified in the system of the hydrogenated Lecithin/ Ethanol/caprylic/capric triglyceride/OMC/water. OMC- nano- emulsion was obtained by a microfluidizing process at 1000bar and then micelle size in the nanoemulsion solution is 100-200nm range. Mesoporous silica nano-hybrid OMC was prepared by the process; surfactant was added in dissolved OMC-Nanoemulsion, then the rod Micelle was formed. OMC-nanoemulsion was capsulated in this rod Micelle and then silica precursor was added in the OMC-nanoemulsion solution. Through the hydrolysis reaction of the silica precursor, mesoporous silica concluding OMC-Nanocapsulation was obtained. The nano-hybrid surface of this OMC-Nanoemulsion-Inorganic system was treated with polyalkyl-silane compound. OMC-Mesoporous silica Nano-hybrids coated with polyalkyl-silane compound show the higher sun protecting factor (SPF Analyzer: INDEX 10-15) than pure OMC and could reduce a skin penetration of OMC. The physico-chemical properties of these nano-hybrids measured on the SPF index, partical size, strcture, specific surface area, pore size, morphology, UV absorption, rate of the OMC dissolution using SPF Analyzer, Laser light scattering system, XRD, BET, SEM, chroma Meter, HPLC, Image analyzer, microfluidizer, UV/VIS. spectrometer.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.268-279
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• 2003

The nano capsulation of the ceramide was a technique that capsulated ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate at the mono-vesicle, so as to act the horny layer in skin. It was used 0.5-5.0 wt% of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.01~2.00 wt% of lysolecithin as the membrane-strengthen agents of the mono-vesicle, 5.0~10 wt% of propylene glycol and 5.0~10.0 wt% of ethyl alcohol made by high-pressure Microfluidizer. To enhance the moisturizing efficacy and treat an atopy skin, used ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate as the active ingredients, and it was made the nano-capsule that synthetic emulsifiers were free. The optimal condition of capsulation of nano ceramide was as follows. The conditions were 3 times at 1,000bar and 60-7$0^{\circ}C$. The particle size showed 63.1$\pm$7.34 nm such as the transparence water as the results for measuring by the laser light scattering. A zeta potential value was -55.1$\pm$0.84 ㎷. The result of the clinical test, the moisturizing effect (in-vivo, n=8, p-value<0.05) was improved 21.15% compared to control, as well as it was improved 36.31 % before the treatment. Moreover, the effectiveness of atopy skin indicated positive reaction that patients were 10 volunteers.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.419-426
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• 2004

The nano-ceramide capsulation is a technique that capsulates ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate at the mono-vesicle to act on the horny layer in skin. In this technique, $0.5{\~}5.0\;wt\%$ of hydrogenated lecithin and $0.01{\~}2.00\;wt\%$ of lysolecithin are used as the membrane-strengthen agents of the mono-vesicle and $5.0{\~}10.0\;wt\%$ of propylene glycol and $5.0{\~}10.0\;wt\%$ of ethyl alcohol are used as solvents. Active ingredients such ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate are utilized to enhance the moisturizing efficacy and treat atopy skin. These materials do not contain synthetic emulsifiers. The optimal conditions or nano-ceramide capsulation are such that particles pass Microfludizdizer 3 times at 1,000 bar and $60{\~}70^{\circ}C$ and pH of nano capsules is $5.8{\pm}0.5.$ The average size of particles is $63.1{\pm}7.34\;nm$ showing lucid state like water by the laser light scattering. A zeta potential value is $-55.1\pm0.84\;mV.$ Through clinical tests, the moisturizing effect (in-vivo, n=8, p-value<0.05) showed $21.15\%$ of improvement comparison to comparison-samples and $36.31\%$ of improvement compared to the state before treatment. Moreover, the effectiveness of atopy skin showed positive reaction from 10 volunteers.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.369-375
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• 2004

In this study, liquid crystalline (LC) is formed using Gemini surfactant (GS) type and moisturizing effect in vivo is measured. $3.0\;wt\%$ of sodium dicocoyl ethylene diamine (PEG)-15 sulfate (SCD-PEG-15S) is used as GS and $4.0\;wt\%$ of hydrogenated dimer acid esters (HDAE) as booster. For stabilizers, $2.0\;wt\%$ of behenyl alcohol (BA) and $1.0\;wt\%$ of Iyso-lecithin (LyL) are utilized. It is stabilized in pH from 4.0 to 10.5 and the best condition is in pH 6.5. The value of viscosity is $8,000\pm500$ cP. The most excellent particles are formed within the range of 4.0 to 15.5 um. Formed LC is observed around LC particles using polarization microscope. It is also observed that lamellar gel network structure is formed around LC particles. Moisturizing effect is improved by $13.6\%$ (P<0.05) compared to control when measured 30 min later after coating samples. After 1 h, moisturizing effect is improved by 1$12.6\%$ (P<0.05) than control while showing $28.3\%$ (P<0.05) of improvement after 4 h. These results may be caused from that manufactured LC forms lamellar structure so that it has better water-holding ability and absorbance of oil increases. This formula could be utilized by delivery system (DS) on skin so that this technology can be applied for manufactuing pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.592-599
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• 2019

This study is to stabilize insoluble and unstable active ingredient which is Idebenone (INCI name: hydroxydecyl ubiquinone) in a multi-lamellar vesicle (MLV) and to stabilize it in the skin care cosmetics. Idebenone is good effective raw material in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease in the medical field and a powerful antioxidant in dermatology. It is well known as a substance that inhibits the formation of melanin and cleans the skin pigment. However, it did not dissolve in any solvent and it was difficult to apply in cosmetic applications. Niosome vesicle was able to develop a nano-particle by making a multi-layer of idebenone encapsulated with a nonionic surfactant, hydrogenated lecithin and glycine soja (soybean) sterols and passing it through a high pressure microfluidizer. Idebenone niosome vesicle (INV) has been developed to have the ability to dissolve transparently in water and to promote transdermal penetration. The appearance of the INV was a yellowish liquid having specific odor, and the particle size distribution of INV was about 10~80 nm. The pH was 5~8 (mean=6.8). This capsulation with idebenone was stored in a $45^{\circ}C$ incubator for 3 months and its stability was observed and quantitatively measured by HPLC. As a result, the stability of the sample encapsulated in the niosome vesicle (97.5%) was about 66.3% higher than that of the non-capsule sample of 32.5%. Idebenone 1% INV was used for the efficacy test and clinical trial evaluation as follows. The anti-oxidative activity of INV was 38.2%, which was superior to that of 12.8% tocopherol (control). The melanin-reducing effect of B16 melanoma cells was better than INV (17.4%) and Albutin (control) (9.6%). Pro-collagen synthesis rate was 128.2% for INV and 89.3% for tocopherol (control). The skin moisturizing effect was 15.5% better than the placebo sample. The elasticity effect was 9.7% better than the placebo sample. As an application field, INV containing 1% of idebenone is expected to be able to develop various functional cosmetic formulations such as skin toner, ampoule essence, cream, eye cream and sunblock cream. In addition, it is expected that this encapsulated material will be widely applicable to emulsifying agents for skin use in the pharmaceutical industry as well as the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.1285-1297
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• 2020

In this study, we report the results of a study on the clinical evaluation of wrinkle improvement by developing a method for liposome of high-purity Centella asiatica extract used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, and a cream using the same. In order to make Centellasome-10EX stabilizing centella asiatica extract in liposome lamella vesicle, it could be completed using 5% hydrogenated lecithin and 2% sucrose distearate. The appearance of Centellasome-10EX was a creamy form of low viscosity, the color was pale yellow, and the odor had the inherent odor of the raw material. The pH was about 6.12, the specific gravity was 1.09, and the acid value was about 0.35. The content of the main constituents of centella asiatica extract contained in the liposome vesicle contains 10,800 ppm of asiatic acid, 10,900 ppm of asiaticoside, 6,000 ppm of madecasic acid, and 1,600 ppm of madecassoside, and long-term storage. There was no discoloration even at the time, and it was found that the main component remained stable thermodynamically. To mechanistically analyze the structure of the liposome vesicle of Centellasome-10EX, as a result of observation with a transmission electron microscope (Cryo-TEM), the multilayer vesicles are formed and filled with moisture, and there are 10 to 60 multilayers around it. It was confirmed that the liposome lamella vesicle was formed. As a clinical trial (in-vivo) test, the moisturizing effect of centellasome cream after application for 5 weeks was 28.3%, which was significantly increased compared to placebo. The skin elasticity effect was 13.6%, which significantly increased the moisturizing power than the placebo. The effect of improving fine wrinkles around the eyes was improved by 23.52% compared to placebo cream. Through the results of this study, it was possible to study the formulation and manufacturing method for encapsulation and stabilization of the developed Centellasome-10EX in the liposome vesicle. It is expected that the results obtained through clinical research on the wrinkle improvement effect of the cream using this can be widely used to study skin science in the cosmetic industry and to develop high-quality cosmetics with high efficacy.