• 한국의류학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.1-8
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• 1986

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics of human epidermal stratum corneum as protein model soils for detergency test. The stratum corneum was collected by scraping of the skin and purified with solvent. The results obtained were as follows: 1. Purified stratum corneum contained $92.38\%$ of crude protein. 2. In the amino acid compositions, contents of glycine, glutamic acid and serine were high and methionine and cystine were low. They were similar to fibrous $\alpha$-keratin consisted of stratum corneum. Whereas the content of polar amino acids was decreased, that of nonpolar amino acids was increased after enzyme hydrolysis. 3. The hydrolysis of stratum corneum with enzyme increased muck at initial reaction time and levelled off in 4$\~$6 hours. The hydrolysis with enzyme was improved effectively at its optimum temperature and pH. 4. The hydrolysis of stratum corneum with enzyme increased by the addition of surfactants. The order of compatibility with enzyme was in the order of Triton X-100>AOS>LAS.

• 한국응용약물학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국응용약물학회 1996년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.286-286
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• 1996

In order to elucidate the mechanism of action of transdermal absorption-enhancing compounds, i.e., pyrrolidone derivatives (2-pyrrolidone, 1-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1-ethyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,5-dimethyl-pyrrolidone and 5-methyl-2-pyrrolidone), multilamellar liposome was prepared from the simulated stratum corneum lipid and employed as a model system for the barrier function of the stratum corneum. The liposomal membrane of the stratum corneum lipid liposome (SCLL) behaves as an osmometer and has an excellent barrier function. In addition, its phase transition temperatures are similar to those of human stratum corneum intercellular lipid region. Therefore, SCLL seems to be a useful skin model. To estimate the barrier function of SCLL, the osmotic behavior of SCLL was measured in the presence of pyrrolidone derivatives and the effect on the phase transition temperature of SCLL was also investigated using differential calorimetry. Above a certain concentration (MLAC), enhances perturb the barrier function of the liposome. The relationship between MLACs and the partition coefficient of the pyrrolidone derivatives was observed; the greater the partition coefficients, the smaller the MLAC. This suggests that the more hydrophobic enhancers penetrate into the lipid layer more easily and reduce the barrier function of membrane more effectively. The results of differential scanning thermograms of the SCLL suggest that the pyrrolidone derivatives had incorporated into the lipid layer in the liposome and increased the fluidity of the lipid layer in the liposome. Such activity might have some correlation with the transdermal absorption-enhancing activity these compounds.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.75-82
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• 2012

천연보습인자(NMF, natural moisturizing factor)는 정상 피부 내의 각질층에 존재하는 수용성, 친수성 성분을 총칭하는 말로 외부로부터 수분을 흡수하고 각질층의 수분보유능을 증가시키며 피부가 건조해지는 것을 방지하여 피부의 유연성과 가수성을 유지하는 기능을 한다. NMF는 주로 아미노산과 아미노산의 대사산물로 구성되며 이들은 필라그린(filaggrin)이 분해되면서 생성된다. 본 연구에서는 피부 각질층의 22종의 개별 아미노산의 함량분석을 통하여 피부보습능과 개개의 아미노산과의 상관관계를 연구하였다. 15명의 건강한 지원자들의 전박과 이마로부터 tape stripping한 각질 시료 중 22종의 아미노산 함량을 UPLC-PDA를 이용하여 동시 분석하였다. 그 결과 각질 표면보다는 안쪽에서의 아미노산들의 함량이 높음을 확인하였다. 또한 신체 부위별 비교에서 전박이 이마에 비해 아미노산 함량이 1.5배 정도 높음을 확인하였다. 전박부위의 아미노산 총 함량과 보습능(TEWL)과의 상관 관계분석을 통해서는 보습능이 클수록 총아미노산 함량이 높은 것으로 확인되었으며 특히 Ser, Glu, Gly, Ala 및 Thr은 각질 내 존재하는 주요 아미노산 성분으로 보습에 긍정적인 영향을 주는 성분으로 확인되었다. 이상의 결과로써 NMF의 주성분인 아미노산의 함량은 각질 생리기능과 밀접한 관련을 가지고 있음을 확인할 수 있었으며 본 연구를 통해 얻은 각질층의 아미노산의 통합적인 분석법은 보습, 노화, 미백, 피부 염증질환 등 다양한 피부 상태와 아미노산류들의 변화와의 관계를 깊이 이해하고 피부 기능과 관련된 새로운 분자적 타겟을 발굴하고 증명하는데 기초적인 방법으로써 사용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.151-161
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of hydrophilic finish for polyester (PET) fabric and hydrophobic finish for cotton fabric on the water transport and comfort properties. Polyester fabric was treated with 10% sodium hydroxide solution to impart hydrophilicity. Cotton fabric was sprayed with Scotch-gard$^{(R)}$ water and oil repellent finish to impart hydrophobicity. Porosity, air permeability, contact angle, wickability and water vapor transport rate (WVTR) were measured to determine the water transport properties of fabrics. To compare the comfort properties of treated and untreated fabrics, wear test was performed by putting fabric patches on the upper back: stratum corneum water content (SCWC), subjective wettedness and comfort rating were determined. The results were as follows: (1) The contact angle of water on treated polyester fabric was decreased and that of treated cotton fabric was increased. Also, the wickability of treated polyester fabric was increased and the wickability of cotton fabric was decreased. (2) Although each finish did not change porosity, the water vapor transport rate of treated polyester fabric was increased and that of treated cotton fabric was decreased slightly. (3) The results of stratum corneum water content measurements showed good agreement with the results of the contact angle and the wickability, i.e., the better the liquid water transport properties are, the less the stratum corneum water contents were resulted. (4) The realtionship of subjective wettedness or comfort and stratum corneum water content was independent. Therefore, it was concluded that human perception on the subjective wettedness or the comfort is affected by the skin contact of wet fabric rather than by the stratum corneum water content.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.131-138
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• 2019

Carbonylated proteins (CPs)은 단백질의 염기성 아미노산 잔기들과 지질 과산화 중 생성되는 알데히드 화합물과의 화학적 반응을 통하여 만들어진다. CP는 UVA와 청색 광선 영역의 빛을 흡수하여 흥분하며, CP의 감광 반응을 통해 superoxide anion radicals ($^{\cdot}O_2{^-}$)이 생성되고 각질층(Stratum corneum, SC)에서 reactive oxygen species (ROS) 생성을 통해 새로운 protein carbonylation이 진행되는 것이 알려졌다. 또한, superoxide anion radicals이 SC에서 CP를 생성하며 색상과 수분 기능을 포함한 피부 상태에 영향을 미치는 것으로 보고되었다. 따라서, 본 연구의 목적은 피부 각질층에 존재하는 stratum corneum carbonylated protein (SCCP)의 생성량과 피부 탄력 개선의 상관정도를 알아보는 것이었다. 이를 위하여 46명의 건강한 피험자들을 대상으로 8주간 피부임상실험을 진행하였다. 8주간 진행한 피부임상시험은 피험자를 두 그룹으로 나누어, 한 그룹은 아무것도 함유하지 않은 크림을 사용하고, 다른 그룹은 탄력개선 원료가 함유된 크림을 사용하였다. 임상시험 측정 항목은 DUB scanner를 이용한 진피 치밀도 측정, Primos를 이용한 주름 측정을 진행하였으며 탄력 측정은 dermal torque meter (DTM310)와 Balistometer (BLS780)를 통해 진행하였다. SCCP측정은 피험자의 뺨에서cyanoacrylate를 이용한 skin surface biopsy (SSB)방법을 이용하여 각질을 채취한 후, 비침습적인 검출 방법을 이용해 SCCP의 양을 조사하였다. 측정은 0주, 4주, 8주 총 3회에 걸쳐서 진행하였으며 각 주차의 측정값을 각각 분석하여 종합적인 결과를 비교하였다. 그 결과, SC에 존재하는 CP의 양은 피부 주름 및 피부 탄력성과 관련된 생물학적 인자의 수치가 개선됨에 따라 감소하는 것을 확인하였다. 이를 통해 항노화 효과에 있어서 탄력 개선과 CP양의 상관관계를 확인하여, 차후 피부 항노화 시험방법에 응용할 수 있음을 확인하였다.

• Archives of Pharmacal Research
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.143-147
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• 1989

The urea effect on skin permeation of clonidine was investigated to reduce a log time and to increase a permeability. ICR mouse skin and human skin were used and were assumed to be a two-layer membrane consisted of stratum corneum and viable epidermis. The urea acted as a skin denaturant and humectant in the whole epidermis. Also it enhanced the skin permeability of clonidine about 3.5 times. On the other hand, it enhanced the skin permeability by acting as a humectant in the viable epidermis. But the urea effect on the whole epidermis was shown to be greater than that on the viable epidermis. Therefore, it was found that the effect of urea was greater on the stratum corneum than the viable epidermis. Variation of enhancing effect according to the concentration of urea was not found in the range of 1% to 20%.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.491-505
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• 1993

The influences of protease on the removal of various protein soils from cotton fabrics were studied. The human epidermal stratum corneum, hemoglobin and casein were used as protein soils. The soiled fabrics were denatured by steaming for 30 min. before washing and laundered using Terg-O-Tometer under washing conditions. The removal efficiency was evaluated by analysis of protein on the fabrics before and after washing by means of copper-Folin method. The relations between the removal and the characteristics of protease were discussed. Also the degradation of protein were examined by microscopy. The seperation of human epidermal stratum corneum after hydrolysis was examined by SDS-PAGE. The results obtained were as follow : 1. The protein from the soiled cotton fabric was removed effectively by adding protease. The removal of protein was increased in proportion to increasing of the enzyme concentration up to a certain point, but it began to decrease above the point. The removal effect was high in the order of casein>human epidermal stratum corneum>hemoglobin. Especially the protein was more effectively removed in ADS solution(pH 9.5) containing enzyme. 2. When protease was used with ADS. the removal of protein was efficiently showed in relatively short time(5~15min.) compared to using ADS only. It is due to the properties of this enzyme that reacts with very short time. 3. Even at low temperature the removal efficiency of enzyme was relatively higher compared with the activity of enzyme. The removal of protein soil was increased up to a maximum near $50^{\circ}C$, and then decreased. 4. The removal of protein by protease was improved with the increase of alkalinity in the pH range from 9.5 to 11.0 but it began to decrease above pH 11.0. 5. According to the increase of mechanical agitation, the removal effect was increased. But the removal efficiency of protease was more effective compared with the agitation in detergency. 6. According to the SDS-PAGE separation and micrograph it was confirmed that the human epidermal corneum was effectively hydrolysed by the enzyme added. So the fragments of protein were removed more efficiently by means of the interfacial reaction of AOS.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
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• pp.387-412
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• 2003

Influence of gelatinase on basement membrane (BM) structure was investigated by using a skin equivalent (SE) model. The results showed that (1) gelatinase produced by cells degraded the BM and (2) the addition of matrix metalloproteinase-specific inhibitor to the SE medium accelerated the formation of BM structure, indicating that gelatinase is involved in BM impairment. The activity of gelatinase was also studied in healthy human facial skin tissues. The result of in situ zymography revealed gelatinase activity around the basal layer of the epidermis, where BM integrity was severely compromised. Therefore, this enzyme was suggested to be associated with BM decomposition in human facial skin. To assess the behavior of gelatinase in stratum corneum (SC) non-invasively, an immunological study was performed. Since positive immunostaining of pro-gelatinase B was observed in SC stripped from sun-exposed skin, whereas no positive staining detected in SC of non-irradiated skin, gelatinase in the epidermis could be non-invasively detected by measuring gelatinase in SC. Gelatinase in SC of healthy female volunteers was monitored using a special film that sensitively and conveniently detects gelatinase. Ninetr percent of SC from facial skin (l00 women, 40's-50's) was gelatinase-positive. On the other hand, SC from non-irradiated skin was negative. These results strongly suggest that (1) gelatinase is constantly produced in the facial epidermis of most middle-aged woman during their daily life, and (2) the enzyme might be involved in the aging-related degeneration of both BM and the matrix fibers of the upper layer of the dermis, acting as a very important aging factor. Strong inhibitory activity against gelatinase was found in turmeric extract and identified curcumin as the major ingredient. Topical application of cream containing turmeric extract significantly decreased the number of gelatinase-positive SC clusters in human facial skins. These results indicated that turmeric is an effective ingredient to prevent skin from photo aging by suppressing chlonically upregulated gelatinase activity by UV and to improve skin condition.

• Archives of Pharmacal Research
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.458-462
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• 2005

The water content of skin was determined using a FT near infrared (NIR) spectrometer. NIR diffuse reflectance spectra were collected from hairless mouse, in vitro, and from human inner arm, in vivo. It was found that the variation of NIR absorbance band 1450 nm from OH vibration of water and 1940 nm from the combination involving OH stretching and OH deformation, depending on the absolute water content of separated hairless mouse skin, in vitro, using the FT NIR spectrometer. Partial least squares regression (PLSR) was applied to develop a calibration model. The PLS model showed good correlation. For practical use of the evaluation of human skin moisture, the PLS model for human skin moisture was developed in vivo on the basis of the relative water content of stratum corneum from the conventional capacitance method. The PLS model predicted human skin moisture with a standard errors of prediction (SEP) of 3.98 at 1130-1830 nm range. These studies showed the possibility of a rapid and nondestructive skin moisture measurement using FT NIR spectrometer.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제42권4호
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• pp.413-420
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• 2016

하이드록시 산(hydroxy acid, HA)은 피부 각질층에 대한 박리효과로 노화방지와 피부 보습을 높이는데 효과를 보여, 피부 외용제와 화장품으로서 많은 활용을 하고 있다. 그 중에서 가장 효과적으로 빠른 시간 내에 나타나는 각질 박리는 화장품 제형 pH에 의해 효과를 보이는 것으로 많은 보고가 있다. 그러나 pH에 의한 자극, 부작용에 의한 염려로 인해 사용에 많은 어려움이 있다. 본 연구의 목적은 피부 각질층에 (1) 하이드록시 산의 농도와 (2) 종류, (3) pH를 변화시킨 화장품을 인체 피부에 도포하여 각질 박리 효과에 대한 영향을 측정하는 데에 있다. 건강한 성인 22명을 대상으로 하박 내측에 DHA (dihydroxyacetone), DC (dansyl chloride)로 피부 표면 각질을 염색하여, 시험제품을 도포한 뒤 각질박리 효과를 측정하였다. (1) GA (glycolic acid)의 농도에 따라 각질 박리 효과는 농도 의존적으로 증가하는 것으로 나타났다. (2 )하이드록시 산의 종류에 따라 pH를 산성과 중성으로 제조한 제품을 대상으로 각질 박리 효과를 측정한 결과, 중성 pH의 GA는 각질 박리 효과가 나타나지 않았다. 이에 반해 SA (salicylic acid)는 산성 pH와 중성 pH에서 모두 통계적으로 유의한 각질 박리 효과가 나타났다. (3) 중성 pH의 SA는 DHA와 DC로 염색한 피부 표면에서 모두 우수한 각질 박리 효과를 나타내었다. 이러한 결과는 pH에 민감한 사람들에게 각질 박리 효과를 기대하는 화장품을 사용할 수 있는 기회를 제공하며, 피부 장벽의 손상 없이 안전한 화장품을 제조할 수 있을 것이라 사료된다.