• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.155-167
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• 2009

This study reviewed the basic principle of "Maximalism" fashion and analyzed the properties of fashion types with found the frequencies of various styles and design factors of "Maximalism" fashion in collection. The limits of this study is from 2001, s/s, maximalism was embossed in a modem fashion, to 2007, f/w, and collected the fashion collection pictures from www.samsungdesign.net and www.style.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most frequent style of "Maximalism" design showed in International fashion collection was "exaggerated style." Second, the design factors of "Maximalism" fashion were also examined. In case of silhouette, "hourglass silhouette" was the most frequent silhouette. In case of pattern, "solid" color was the most frequently used. In case of materials, the soft materials were the most frequently used. Third, the frequencies of design factors of maximalism by presentation types was compared and analyzed. In case of expansion, "bulk silhouette" was the most frequent silhouette to be appeared, and about multi-ethnic, futurelism, and elegance, "hourglass silhouette" was frequent appeared. In case of pattern, "solid" color was the most frequently used in all types. In case of materials, the hard materials were the most frequently used in expansion, multi-ethnic and futurelism. "Maximalism" fashion which is most splendid trend would grow up rapidly in the modem fashion market and influence on the other fashion trend in our every day life. Consequently, this research can be referred as practical information in fashion marketing and it will contribute to the future fashion research as well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.31-42
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• 2008

The fashion of the 19C had been through many diverse styles, i.e. Empire style, Romantic style, Crinoline style and the Bustle style. These styles had emphasized a certain figures, such as exaggerated hourglass silhouette of crinoline style or S silhouette of bustle style. Following the trends, corsets became more than underwears. Actually they supported the fashion of the 19C. Apparently, the corsets had been evolved in many aspects. Patterns, materials and trimmings were developed and refined to make torso figures desirable. The initial purpose of the research is to find out how they developed corset patterns to make such a diverse figures, so that the techniques can be adopted in contemporary pattern design. The 16 corsets and their patterns were quoted from books related the subject. The patterns were redrawn of same scale for the comparative study concerning cutting lines and measurements. Coming to the late, more curved lines and more segmented cutting were used to make body more of glamour and natural. Gussets were another key technique to make them work. Various sized and shaped gussets were used to follow the trends of ever changing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.235-247
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• 1999

The influences of Art nouveau and Art Deco are as follow: The first, in the side of silhouette, hourglass style and bell shaped skirt influence on mordern fashion chiefly and S-curve style was mollified. Empire style, hobble style in art deco age are all showed diversely, in these styles especially boyish style give an outstanding trasts to modern fashion. The second, the color of art deco, characterized by pastel in art nouveau's color tone, original color and black and gold was reflected on the textile design and showed diversely in the color fo modern fashion. The third, in the field of textile and pattern, flower and plant which was a motive of art nouveau style, organic curve and geometrical pattern and exotic motive was seperately used with motive in the pattern and design of mordern. Textile of goldish and silver tone, metal stuff, lace embroidery, fur, artifical flower, feather etc. showed up on the many parts of clothing. Like this Art Nouveau and Art style not only had a great effect on the costume but also decorations and formative arts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.42-58
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine actual design cases of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, and create designs and fashion works to meet our contemporary fashion trends by means of over-decorative style, a characteristic of decorative detail. The characteristics of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style can be outlined as follows: First, pleats appear with two major feels of solidity, undulated and curvilinear solidity based on gather(ruffle, frill/ flare and flounce) and regular and linear solidity based on linear pleats or tucks. Second, embroidery appears in various patterns developed with stitch of solid feel as well as a variety of coloration effects. Third, attachments are expressed by means of independent motif(applique, gloss effects(beads, sequins), affluent texture and mobility(fur, feather). Moreover, according to technical characteristics and expressive aspects of pleats, embroidery and attachments, it is found that decoration detail in the era of Art Nouveau is over-decoration style. Indeed, it appears in major expressive aspects such as rhythmical solid type, detailed prominence type, superficial touch type and profound volume type.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.91-100
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of check dresses shown in collections from 2011 to 2014 and to extract main expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette of block check dresses. The results of this study are as follows: 1) 120 check dresses shown in collections were composed of 57 straight silhouette dresses, 38 fitted silhouette dresses, 23 hourglass silhouette dresses, 1 barrel silhouette dress, and 1 atypical silhouette dress. And check pattern mostly used in the current collections a square pattern of block check, tartan check that is a Scotch traditional lattice pattern, a small lattice pattern of gingham check, over check that other check patterns are arranged on check pattern, star-shaped hound tooth check, glen check mixing small pattern and big pattern. The visual image for check dress differs according to changes in the check pattern and silhouette of the dress. 2) Main expressional words of visual images for block check dresses differ greatly depending on the silhouette of dresses. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'graphic', 'simple', 'hard', 'modern' for straight silhouette of block check dresses. The words of 'lively', 'girlish', 'feminine', 'cute' are ranked for hourglass silhouette of block check dresses. And the words of 'confident', 'feminine', 'modern' are marked down for fitted silhouette of block check dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.117-126
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on the past costume is getting more importance and as the methodolgy of the study the accu-rately approached study through the rehabili-tation of the past cosume is more needed than the simple rearrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The general silhouette is the style to emphasize the waist and to widen skirt at the lower part of the body. The front shows hourglass silhouette but the side shows S-line silhouette. The dress is two-piece composed of bodice and skirt. 2) Color and Fabric: The main color is dull powder blue end the sub color is ivory. The dress is made of wool crepe and cotton and partly silk crepe satin and taffeta. 3) Pattern and sewing: The dress is combined with lining and fabrics, The patterns. or overbodice. The skirt is gored skirt. The skirt is gored skirt. The dress has various effect not only to decorate but also to conceal seams support hemlines nd affect the depth and length of front panel. 4) Datail: The braid black velvet ribbon frill and tucks in bodice skirt sleeves front panel collar cuffs are repeatedly used to dec-orate the dress. Finally the 1902-3 day dress has the characteristics of transitional stag in which the chatacteristics of the costume of 1900s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the charac-teristics of day dress well in terms of the style color and fabric pattern and sewing and detail.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.65-84
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.382-396
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the transition of glamour style expressed in modern fashion throughout the history. The glamour style in modern fashion was categorized into five periods which are Hollywood glamour(H), Feminine glamour(F), Rich glamour(R), Decadent glamour(D), and Trash glamour(T). These categories were analyzed and compared in the viewpoint of aesthetic values deduced on the previous study. As a method of analysis, literature study and case study through the publications in aesthetics, history and preceding theses were used. The results of analysis are: Ostentatious luxury was suggested by extravagance of the movie star in H, the splendid American lifestyle in F, conspicuous consumption in R, fin de siecle bad taste in D and self-assured exposure in T. Mysterious idolatry was studied as exaggerated goddesshood of the movie star in H. It was expanded to celebrities including fashion models, television actresses, pop singers and young couture designers in the other periods. Artificial sensuality was originated from the femme fatale image of the courtesan as well as the traditional femininity of Victorian era in H. It was developed through exaggerated hourglass silhouette of the wife dressing in F. But an aggressiveness in R, a hyper-sexual femme fatale in D, an independent and defiant image of the showgirl in T were observed. Playful queerness stood out clearly by the fin de siecle phenomena. Though it was embodied in sexual perversive subculture, it emerged as hi fashion by young designers in the late R and became a crucial aesthetic value throughout D and T. It is more connected with the origins of glamour which arouses sexual ambiguity, crudity, aggressiveness and death. The continuity and discontinuity of the glamour style based on the theory of 'linked solution' were also analyzed.