• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.18-34
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• 2013

This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.80-97
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• 2012

This study empirically examined Seo Yu-gu's views on constumes that are based on 'Boksikjigu[服飾之具]' of Seomyongji[贍用志] in Imwonkyungjeji[林園經濟志]. In 'Boksikjigu', Seo Yu-gu explained different situations and problems that were related to costumes and proposed solutions for the problems. This study examined the contents, and divide the items into caps, accessories, and clothes. The results of this study were as follows. First, Seo Yu-gu in he rited the tradition of erudition. Seo Yu-gu classified various costume items systematically, and explained in detail about the origin, history and materials of the costume items. Second, he emphasized frugality, effective use, and welfare. Seo Yu-gu argued that the sleeves should be shortened for convenience and tried to improve practicality in the functional aspect. Also, he wanted to enrich people's life by improving the convenience of goods used in daily life. Third, he tried to establish identity as a Confucian intellect. This idea was clearly shown in 'costumes'; therefore, they served as evidences that Seo Yu-gu used to correct wrong practices through precise historical investigation and review of Shim-ui[深衣], the symbol of the practice of Jujagarye[朱子家禮]. In his later years, he discovered the plain dress that was worn as a casual wear by ZhuXi[朱熹]and tried to wear it in dailylife.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.12 no.9
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• pp.3815-3826
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• 2011

TThis study was undertaken to make trial costumes of ball jointed dolls for promoting the beauty of Korean cultural product with historical research of upper class ladie's costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon, the very unknown period in the Korean costume history. The ladies' costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon are characterized by their full silhouette, fusion with clothings of Yuan and Ming, revival of early Goryeo styles, well-developed weaving skill of ramie, a showy costume from Buddhist civilization. After investigation of researcher with literature, painting, and relics in 13-14C, 8 clothing items were outsourced totally. Items were formed as a set concept, but consumer can choose each costume as an single item and can make varied mix also. Dart, small ties, and thick fabrics were used in doll costumes partly because ball jointed doll's body has different characteristics from that of human beings. Developing research of manufacturing company's system for ready-made product remains to be considered in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.77-93
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the stage costumes of Michael Jackson, and how it was reflected in contemporary fashion. The study reviewed fashion related articles, book, journals, and online fashion sites in order to look at the stage costumes used by Michael Jackson from 1979 to 2001 from 'Off the wall' to 'Invincible'. The study examined the 2001 S/S~2016 S/S seasons of the world's 4 major $pr{\hat{e}}t$-${\acute{a}}$-porte collections to identify cases that used at least two fashion factors of Michael Jackson's style. The study result is as follows: First, Michael Jackson wore black tuxedoes with bow ties, ankle-length pants, white socks, black loafers, arm bands and other various accessories. Second, many of Jackson's fashion traits, such as military style golden embroidery detail and emblems, Brandenburgs, and also appeared in many collections. Third, Jackson's glitter style included spangle and cubic accessories, which were used along with hologram and metallic materials. Accessories, such as cubic gloves and socks, and fedoras were worn with the costume. Lastly, his diverse style, which included fencing shirts, letterman jacket and magic suits, can be found in different forms in modern fashion. Michael Jackson was one of the trendsetters in popular fashion in the 1970s~1990s, and continuously inspires fashion designers in the 21st century. In this aspect, the Michael Jackson style is deemed highly significant in the fashion history.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.407-423
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-27
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• 1994

This result of the study on the costume of Osman Turkey are as following. 1. Empire of Osman Turkey(129∼1922) exerted an almost limites impact and influence on Europe and Asia during their regime 600 years. The distant ancestors of the Osman Turks were nomadic peoples, who wandered I tribal groups through the Central Asia. Therefore their costumes were based on nomadic culture. They had trade with West and East were influenced by Hellenism and Byzantium and grew, to a strong Islamic political power polygamy with which influence their clothing along with other culture. 2. Topkapi Saray was one of he principal residences of the Osman sultans and his court. Late 17 century, Topkapi Saray found many of kaftans of Osman Turks Empires of 14∼17 centuries. Otherwise we studied by the minatures of 16∼17 centuries, Since the Topkapi Saray became a museum in 1924, a program of careful restoration has made it possible to some pars of it to the public, after centuries neglection. 3. Osman Turkey Empire had important role in between West and East(silk-road). Economic, commercial, social and political factor of Turkey led to a development in the art of weaving (kema, kadife, catman, seraser, zerbeft, hatayi, kntnu, atlas)parallel to the rise and development of the Osman Turkey Empire itself, one which raised the art to a level attained nowwhere else in the world. Fabrics woven from gold and silver thread occupied a very important place in the court life of the time. This was due as much to their symbolic as to their material value, reflecting as they did the power, glory and magnificence of the Empire. 4. In order to study Eastern or Western history of costume one must study Turkey history of costume in advance. Also there is a great need of comparison to study of western, central and north eastern area history of costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.151-164
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• 2004

This Studies on 20th century fashion was carried out according to the classification of the times as made up Belle Epoque, New Look, Big Look, and Body-Consciousness. Aside from research in literatures, research into 20th fashion also include the analysis of photo had been taken from various collection. The enlargement beauty of costume had been place under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness. the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To conclude, this study finds there are between the aesthetic characteristic differences in the aesthetic consciousness of the costumes in history and the present-day fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the present-day was found to have the following characteristic ; (1) History-oriented tradition (2) Metaphorica autonomous (3) Freedom of breaking with restriction (4) Dismantling the irregularity (5) Hedonistic play instinct (6) Psychological compensation (7) Sexual sensuality (8) Ideal of the times (9) Aesthetic ornament (10) Feeling of satisfaction through self-enlargement. From list above. metaphorical sensuality, aesthetic ornament and the feeling of satisfaction driven by Self-Enlargement are the same characteristics found in the aesthetics consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costume In history in that they are the aesthetic consciousness above time and space. It is metaphorical sensuality which transform woman's body in to distorted images as influenced by both capitalism and materialism in the last 20 years. These are represented by the sadomasochistic and fetish images as the woman's metaphorical voluminous enlargement is apparently becoming more positive, radical and obscene especially in terms of expression.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.78-86
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• 2005

Marek(말액) is the headgear, which is a form of hempen hoods[Geon(건)] and the origin of it is Pa(파) of band form. A history book of an old Chinese country Post-Han $\ll$ History of HouHan (후한서)$\gg$ had recorded that a soldier wore a red band around his head that was called Pa(파). In the Han dynasty(한대), Pa had been transformed into Chaek(책) or a kind of a hemp rap(건) while e headgear had still remained as the band form and called Marek from e Tang era(당). The literatures of the Tang era had referred the red Marek of soldiers, and other literatures of the later period had recorded that of the previous headgears of the band form were related with Marek. Since the Tang era, white or yellow Marek except red one fer soldiers had been were by soldiers, musicians, dancers and singers in Yuan(원) and Ming(명) of China. The colors was recorded in red on documents mostly, this red implicated soldiers for symbol of terror. This fart was documented in an old history book $\ll$The history of 25 Eras(이십오사)$\gg$, On the other side, a wall painting in Princess Jeonghyo(정효공주)'s tomb of the Parhae(발해) period described the portraits of twelve persons, and among them, two Siwui(시위) put on the red Marek. Quoted from the record of a history book of the Tang era system , a history book of Three Kingdoms(삼국시대) of ancient Korea $\ll$Samguksaki(삼국사기)$\gg$ described that four dancers of Kogryo(고구려) wore Marek on their heads with the costumes of Koguryo, one of those Kingdoms. In consideration that the book of $\ll$Tongjun$\gg$ was the literature of the Tang era so that Marek mentioned in this book was followed by their name, the Marek of Koguryo dancers shown in the history book $\ll$Samguksaki(삼국사기)$\gg$ might be a kind of Koguryo style hemp cap[Geon(건)]. The Marek of Parhae had succeeded to the headgear of Koguryo and the identity was on Koguryo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.27-42
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• 2004

Music videos provide for many others images, alluring the audience to fall in another emotional world, while the sexual images shown in them suggest new images of man and woman. Today, men's images are being interpreted from various viewpoints. As interests in men's fashion are visualized through music video clothing, not only juveniles who want to be identified with the music video images but also adults try to imitate them, and proceed to wear the clothing, obliterating the boundary between 'reality' and 'illusion' and creating new images of men. This study is aimed at reviewing the male images shown in the music videos, particular their clothing, produced between 2000 and 2002. The results of this study could be summarized as follows : 1. Since beginning of the human history, men's image has been characterized by patriarchal system, capitalism, bourgeois class which emerged after industrial revolution and other man-dominant socio-cultural phenomena, such male image are shown in the music video as conservative and dominant image. 2. However, due to the post-modern culture, the power began to be decentralized. while feminism and men's liberation movement gain strength. As a result, women or heterosexuals began to regard men as sexual objects, and such a phenomenon is featured as sexual, bisexual or decadent images in the music videos. 3. On the threshold of the 21st century, music videos have begun to creatively describe men's life, their social conflicts, dreams and hopes and death and thereby. feature men's such images as being destroyed in view of existentialism. The numerous creative men's images interpreted in this way are featured in many music video works only to create playful, cyborg or demonic images using the senses. After all, men's images are featured in the music video costumes in diverse ways ranging from the conventional images to acquiescent images. In addition, various male images are combined with the characteristics of the music videos to be re-created anew. The young men in the our modern age tend to imitate or apply such images to create their own images or individualistic styles. All in all, men's image can be fixed no longer but diversified and fragmented in the new age.