• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2000

The purpose of study is explaining the Historicism as a result of compromise, historical eclecticism, between historical things and current cultural background instead of regarding it as an imitation from the past. It means that external factors in history help internal esthetic value surface out as costume. Fashion s history is more than the classified thing according to the appearance with the changes of the times. Intrinsic cultural elements should be added in creating new fashion. One of the different features between Modernism and Post-modernism. When coming to the period of Post-modernism, it connected with the historical factors to make something new by fragmenting, magnifying, or minimizing them. This is calles 'Historicism'in the world of art. It revived the past, not the past itself, in new ways : quotation, reuse, metaphor, and mixture. To represent the image, parody, pastiche, or bricolage was usually used. In post-modernism fashion, parody is a technique for imitating the past or the preceding forms with artists'own critical points of view. This technique gives us shock or surprise by using satirical, ironical or paradoxical expressions. pastiche shares the same part with parody in imitating particular or unique style, and it can be renamed empty parody, because it doesn't have any hidden motivation or satirical impulse. bricolage is a mixture of quotations from other works. It contains fragments that deepen the image. Like the techniques uttered above, the revival of history through parody, pastiche or bricolage is historical eclecticism and it is included in Historicism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2012

The purpose of this dissertation is to examine the various types of hooded garments that have been worn after the $20^{th}$ century, and to analyze the aesthetic values of them. The study examined various types of hooded garments with diverse significances based on literature and case studies on the history of garments, news paper articles and the Internet. Since the $20^{th}$ century, there has been a variety of hooded garments, such as monk dresses, hoodies, anoraks, duffle coats, some protective clothing, and designers' hooded clothes. Through this research, the study found that the aesthetics of hooded garments after the mid-20th century were as follows: physical protection, anonymity, psychological refuge, fashionability and high-functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.582-593
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• 2002

Metal materials have been used in the clothing design on the spirit of ingenious experiment by fashion designers, and they have been put to practical use by several designers who work out a scheme of popular fashion merchandise. This current starting from the 1960s was weakened in the 1980s, but it was appeared with various shapes of metal materials in the 1990s due to a popularity of techno/cyber fashion. Recently, textile engineering technology causes to develop new-materials which are practical and sanitary. The development of fashionable metal materials brings about the popularization of fashion with metal materials, and it induces that mainstream of modem fashion has been changed into designers of pursuing the spirit of ingenious experiment. This study examines the formative characteristics of metal materials that are based on the spirit of ingenious experiment. As a result, it is evaluated that the formative of metal materials shown in modern fashion is futurism, visual concentration, avast-garde, resistance, precious.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.294-301
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• 2013

Sustainable fashion & textile is more than eco fashion & textile with the concepts for the next generation's happiness, prosumer value, and community responsibility. This study considers methods to enhance fashion and textile industry sustainability in accordance to clothing types (material, product life and washing properties) and to investigate company strategies. Company strategies are of redesign with stock, volunteering & measuring trash amount, participation by evaluation stores, clerk environment education, hiring QC specialist and reinforcing partnerships. For the case of daily innerwear, throwing away and recycling is more efficient for the environment than laundering in the consumer use stage; subsequently, we recommend the use of polypropylene fiber (a cheap and an eco-friendly material) for this item that can be recycled and reformed after use. For the case of single layer clothing (such as sportswear, blouse or pants) we recommend the use of thermoplastic materials with welding or fuse assembling technology instead of a sewing method of seams as well as the recycle design that is simply melted and reformed into new clothing without an after use dissembling process. Secondhand use or resale is suitable for denim/jean items if the clothing has a storytelling or private history tag. Lastly, module-type jacket or coat shows the variety of styles with one clothing worn w/o collar or sleeve details and changed into vest/coat; in addition, it is possible to add or partly tear off some jacket/coat fibers of the felt material to reform it into a new design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.2006-2021
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• 2010

An authentic national spirit in media (particularly films), traditional images, and color preferences is expressed through movies that are melted in local traditions. This study suggests a direction regarding the characteristics for historical costumes by examining traditional color images and cultural preference in the Chinese film (1987), a representative film that deals with Chinese history and traditions. This movie can illustrate the correlation between the temporal backgrounds and the costumes in the movie with the criteria of Eastern color systems. The results of this research are summarized as follows. First, the image of Chinese traditional colors represented in many parts of and the cultural preferences that underlies their works through the expression of traditional colors. The scenes of traditional costumes and colors express the visual embodiments of the costumes that reflect a specific status, ceremony, or ritual. Second, the traditional colors used in the movie are based on the Yin-Yang theory. Particularly, Red, Yellow, Black is mostly used for ordinary clothing. Third, there are some differences in the use of color arrangements, that change regarding the use of traditional colors according to images and situations that follow the intention of the director. Planning the color arrangements is considered an engaging connectivity between traditions and images in the movie and it is extended or reduced based on cultural preferences. Fourth, the increase and decrease of color arrangements is distinctively represented as the story of the movie proceeds.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.51-65
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to investigate research trends in the knitwear fashion field and suggest future directions for fashion businesses and research. Research trends in the knitwear fashion field were investigated. A total of 134 articles on knitwear fashion field among 4027 published in five journals - Journal of the Korean Society of Knit Design, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion & Costume, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume - from 2001 to 2010 were analyzed. Most (32.84%) of articles related to knitwear fashion were published in Journal of the Korean Society of Knit Design. The knitwear fashion field was divided into fashion design, clothing construction, textile science, fashion marketing, and history of costume. The majority (43.28%) were on the research topic of fashion design, followed by textile science, clothing construction, fashion marketing, history of costume. From 2001 to 2010, the number of papers relating to knitwear fashion increased from year to year. The further development of the knitwear fashion field can be expected in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.158-170
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• 2016

This study analyzes historical drama costumes as a domain of popular culture through an examination of the changing process, factors, and design characteristics of historical drama costumes according to trend changes in historical dramas after the 2000s. Public interest in Korean traditional clothing has grown due to the historical drama fever. Research results are as follows. First, historical dramas are divided into: authentic historical dramas, popular dramas, and fusion dramas. Historical drama costumes show characters' status and roles to help viewers become absorbed in dramas and increase understanding the historical periods and knowledge. Second, the characteristics of TV historical drama costumes (according to changes of the historical dramas according to 2000) brought diversification as they are diversified by period, genre, and character and costumes which are suitable for them additionally resurfaced. Third, as for the design characteristics by type in TV historical costume after 2000s, authentic historical dramas' design was done by comparatively in-depth historical research based on historical materials to help public understand the past. Popular historical drama costumes are based on history, but the forms of costumes were emphasized (or exaggerated); in addition, colors, subjects, and patterns were modified to emphasize image beauty, dramas' atmosphere, and characters by reflecting intention. The fusion of historical dramas' costumes attracted the attention of the public about Korean designs that harmonized tradition with modernity to actively reflect current trends in past periods and show new types of creative design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.127-138
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• 2009

This study is about the analysis on symbolic meaning and kunstwollen of Issey Miyake's art works which is influenced by various external factors such as social and cultural background, nationality and philosophy. Especially, this research focused on 'Pleats Please Issey Miyake' and 'A Piece of Cloth' which are the core of his works. The most important concept of Issey Miyake's works is the relationship of human body and a piece of cloth. Miyake's clothes has provided the time and the space where inspires the vitality into wearer. He accomplishes the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Miyake wants to express the emotion of the human being through his clothes and tries to make special code between creator, wearer and viewer. Fashion is accomplished in connection with human body, not exists just as 'clothes'. Fashion has valued as an art which expresses the ideology and the sentiment of human being most directly. Issey Miyake who has tried to express human life and emotion has promoted fashion as an important part of art. Miyake is accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.379-390
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• 2009

This Study is a research on symbolic meaning and artist's will of Vivienne Westwood's works which provide a new vision on woman's body and clothes. For the literary research, this study investigates theories of human's body which are phenomenal body of Merleau-Ponty's, the relations between power and body of M. Foucault's, cultural and social body of E. Goffman's and habitus of p, Bourdieu's. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood's collections are classified into each item which exaggerating and distorting woman's body such as Mini-Crini, corset, bustle cushion, bum-pad, farthingale and tailoring suits. Also she puts man's clothes item such as codpiece into woman's body. Through all of these design, she wants to reinterpret the woman's body and self-identity. Vivienne Westwood dose not leave the past just as a historic trace but recreates with her way of creation. Westwood has presented the satire which leads the parody of past in her unique ways of thinking and interpretation which mix the ideology of the past and the presents. Those make her look back the history and culture and express her esteem for self-identity of woman. Vivienne Westwood's works express woman's power and freedom in modem society.