• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.29-43
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costume designs that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde art. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the trend of art that Natalia Goncharova introduced in the early 20th century. The research method defined the formation and progress of the development of the Neo-Primitivism centering the works of art by Natalia Goncharova. Based on this method, Goncharova designed the set and the costume designs for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing art. The result were as follows. First of all, Goncharova's costume designs were all manufactured based on the theme of Russian folk art and genesis. In other words, Goncharova represented the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art Lubok, and Goldern cockerel or religious Icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume designs. her design displayed the Neo-Primitivism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, which defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Goncharova had one realize that Neo-Primitivism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Natalia Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the early 20th century in their costume designs.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.103-115
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• 2013

This study identifies how the luxury brand marketing mix affects customer equity drivers and suggests intangible equity management strategies so that companies can make long-term profits through luxury brands based on empirical studies of Korean luxury consumers. The results of the study are as follows: First, this study classified the properties that use 8 key factors (product integrity, heritage, exclusivity, premium image, environment and consumption experience, premium price, luxury communication strategy, and brand signature). Second, it shows that product integrity and luxury communication strategy have a positive effect on all customer equity drivers, that brand signature has a positive effect on value equity and brand equity, and that premium price has a negative effect on relation equity. It is important to provide products and services equipped with high quality and luxurious designs based on excellent craftsmanship in order to establish brand equity and value equity. Brand identity needs to be maintained and unique brand signatures need to be developed based on the long history of luxury brands against a traditional backdrop. A diversified communication strategy improves brand recognition while playing a part in facilitating brand association and brand image. In order to improve relationship equity, actions such as a loyalty program to strengthen brand loyalty, need to be taken as well as measures to maintain and enhance customer trust through a reasonable price strategy.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.822-834
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• 2015

Contemporary fashion companies have been planning marketing strategies that can promote brands and products more effectively for satisfying consumers' increasingly diversified needs. For this reason, retail spaces have continued to evolve and the modern concept of pop-up stores appeared through this process. Therefore, the object of this study was to research domestic pop-up fashion store cases by collecting article data. These data are from Internet fashion-specialty sites and analyze the types and characteristics of pop-up fashion stores by providing basic information that will be useful in the pop-up fashion stores of companies when they establish their marketing strategies. This study utilized the content analysis method and derived the results by using SPSS Statistics. As a result of this study, the type of "pop-up fashion stores opening in distribution enterprises" comprised the highest percentage of the whole store types and the pop-up fashion stores' management purposes were focused on product introduction, promotion, and market testing. As time passed, not only did pop-up fashion stores' growth rate increased, but also the types of pop-up fashion stores have become more diverse. In other words, contemporary fashion companies are utilizing more pop-up fashion stores as a marketing strategy than before. However, due to the short history of domestic pop-up fashion stores, the variety of research is still insufficient, so more extensive research on pop-up fashion stores is required.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1979

This is a study on angels' costumes in religious paintings, especially as this relates to the questions of concepts and theological symbolism. Angels, as spiritual creatures in Christian thought, play the role of praising God's glory, as messengers of God, the role of guarding Israel and the Church, and protecting or punishing human beings. Sometimes the angels appear in incarnate form. They display no sexual differences and are not able to procreate. The angels' funtional classification being thus; nevertheless, they are pictured in various costumes and appearances according to characteristics of the paintings. The angel Michael appears as a man of dignity when pictured as a guard; the angel Gabriel in the annunciation is often portrayed as a woman of mystical beauty. Under the Renaissance, the mighty cherubim and seraphim at Yahweh's throne are degraded as plump child-angels, or winged child-heads looking alike Eros or Cupid. They have become playful and all too obviously non-heavenly chrubs, accepted features of the Temple decorations. However, cherubim are often depicted as naked or wrapped around with a piece of cloth and accompanied with wind, which symbolizes the Glory of God. The angels, costumes without seam are hung over or wrapped around the body, and when sewn they are simple and ample enough that they fall in a great many folds. However, by the 14C. angels are mostly dressed in costumes common to all Europe, and after that angels gradually appear in folk costumes; for example Italian, Flemish, etc. Dalmatic, the typical costume of Byzantine often shows up as angels' dresses even after the period. Originally the dalmatic was the Roman tunic to which Eastern influences added. The Roman clavus on the tunic had gradually lost distinction until, by the Imperial epoch, it was worn by the lowest servants. It was proudly therefore, as 'The servants of God', that the early Christians are shown wearing the clavus on their wide, ungirdled, sleeved dalmatics. In addition to their costume, angels have some other distinct charateristics. First, angels have a halo around their head; this symbolizes their holiness. Second, angels wear a narrow diadem or a queen's crown that seems to denote their glorious status close to God's throne. Third, the cloth band across the breast resembles a priest's stole, which suggests the sacred role of a priest and symbolizes the grace santified. Fourth, lilies in the annunciations are symbols of Mary's virginity. chastity, innocence and heavenly bliss. Angels hold palms or olives in their hands. The former denote prosperity. beauty and the Christians' reward after death; the latter represent peace and amity. the imperial crown made of olives means victory. Fifth, angels in paintings always have a pair of wings, which can be traced to scripture where cherubim and seraphim are described as having pairs of wings. Angels' wings often have colors of the rainbow, and the rainbow is compared to God's glory. Sixth, generally artists paint angels' costumes as white, blue, green, gold and purple. Other colors such as red rarely appear. According, to scriptures it is believed that angels should be depicted 'as white as snow'. According to the biblical expressions of angels as lightning, sun or a pillar of fire, angels should be described as creatures of light. Nevertheless being a form of art, religious paintings may differ in their presentation according to an artist's inspiration and intention. Since religious paintings illustrated above were almost all done before the Reformation, symbols of colors used in the Catholic Church will also be mentioned. The white color symbolizes chastity, purity, brightness, delight and divinity. Green represents new birth, eternal life, spiritual revival and the expectance of the grace of God. Blue, the color of sapphires, denotes chastity and truth. Red, the color of rubies, represents divinity, love and religious passion. Violet is the color of dignity, indicating the sovereign, royal or imperial power and the great Sacrifice of Christ. As mentionad above, angels' costumes were expressed in accordance with contemporary patterns or as indicated in the Bible, and accesories and colors correspond with Christian symbols. Therefore these facts should be taken into consideration when it comes to the study of costume history.

• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.113-133
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to establish academic identity as well as produce human resources that industries need by grasping curriculum of the departments related beauty focusing on Korean colleges (junior colleges and four year course colleges), analyzing examples of advanced countries and suggesting their developmental direction. For the research method, the reference period of curriculum in Korean colleges was from Jul. 05th, 2011 to Aug. 05th, 2011. the investigation method is as follow: first, the curriculum of the departments related to beauty which were registered in the web sites were investigated. Second, the documents were received by fax and Email from each department after calling it. Third, questions and answers were done in reference to majors on the phones. these methods are intended for 65 junior colleges and 16 four year course colleges (total 81 ones). It clarified that lifelong education centers and the graduate courses were ruled out. the statistical analysis about data which were investigated like this were done by the frequency analysis. The results which examined the major subjects of Make-up focusing on Korea and foreign countries are as follow: First, the result which examined the major and theory subjects of Make-up has found that there are the human body theory, the equipment theory, the marketing theory are the management theory in Korean junior colleges and physiology/chemical, management, marketing and equipment product were treated in four year course colleges of Korea. As for foreign colleges, the subjects related to history and culture are mainly treated as the theory courses and their purpose is to cultivate basic knowledge of the fields which are mainly connected to Make-up including plays, movies, TV and studios. Second, the result which examined practice subjects of Make-up major has found that practice subjects of the total ones are of great importance in junior colleges. And it could be found that the Make-up field is of little importance as it is not independent and exists with the hair and skin fields in one department in the four year course colleges. Especially, in the foreign countries, the more detailed and professional subjects including classes which treat digital media, studio technologies, production, wigs and the special effects were treated by the field class system and these characteristics implies that Korean curriculum should be changed in the future. Based on this analytical results of investigation, this researcher tried to propose the developmental direction of Korean curriculum in the future.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.173-187
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제34권3호
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• pp.1-23
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• 2022

본 연구의 목적은 미얀마의 섬유 및 패션산업에 대한 교수 및 대학생들의 인식을 살펴보고 패션 관련 고등교육 프로그램의 현황과 수요를 파악하는 것이다. 이를 위해 미얀마 대학생들과 양곤공과대학교 섬유공학과 교수들을 대상으로 인터뷰 및 설문조사를 실시하였다. 한 명의 한국인 교수를 제외하고 교수들은 이메일을 통해 폐쇄형 및 개방형 질문이 포함된 설문지에 응답하였다. 학생 데이터는 온라인 그룹 인터뷰 또는 이메일을 통해 수집되었다. 응답은 키워드 추출 및 분류를 통해 분석되었으며, 미얀마의 고등교육에 대한 일반적인 의견에 대한 폐쇄형 질문에 대해 기술통계분석이 실시되었다. 일반적으로 교수들은 고등교육이 매우 중요하며, 미얀마의 고등교육이 개선될 필요가 있다고 하였으며, 예체능 교육이 매우 중요하고, 예술과 패션을 포함한 문화산업은 미얀마의 사회경제적 발전에 중요하며, 패션산업이 미얀마 경제에 기여하는 바를 고려할 때 패션교육은 중요하다고 답하였다. 미얀마의 패션 산업에 대한 관심은 특히 학생들 사이에서 매우 높았지만 섬유공학 분야 학위 취득에 대한 관심은 제한적이었다. 의류업계의 낮은 임금, 관심이 아닌 학점으로 전공이 결정되는 것, 미얀마의 고등교육 및 패션스쿨 패션학과의 부재 등을 이유로 들었다. 일부에서는 미얀마 대학생들의 교육적 요구에 맞는 패션 학위가 제공되면 이러한 인식이 개선될 것이라고 믿었다. 패션상품개발, 패션디자인, 패턴 메이킹, 패션마케팅, 패션 브랜딩, 패션매니지먼트, 복식사사, 문화연구 분야에서 교육 프로그램에 대한 수요가 높았다. 섬유공학과 학생들은 졸업 후 섬유 및 의류공장을 주요 취업 기회로 인식하였다. 많은 학생들이 더 높은 급여를 받고 더 높은 수준의 지식과 기술을 습득할 수 있기를 기대했기 때문에 글로벌 패션 브랜드에 취직하기를 원했다. 미얀마 패션교육프로그램 개발은 패션 및 패션교육 분야에 대한 관심 증가, 교육을 받을 여력이 없는 학생들에게 학습 기회 제공, 미얀마의 국가 브랜드 개발, 미얀마 패션산업 및 전통 브랜드의 브랜드화 개선 등 다양한 긍정적인 효과가 있을 것으로 기대하였다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.137-156
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• 1998

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.