• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.17-31
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to perform historical reconstruction of the court dress coat in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the artifacts. Following steps were undertaken in the study : literature research of the laws of the era, drawing of the design, embroidering gold work, and tailoring of the coat. Embroidering and tailoring experts were consulted to complete an accurate reconstruction of the dress court. The results of this study are as follows. First, Juimgwan's coat, which was the Court Costume Rule in 1905 was selected as an experimental coat. It was revision of the Court Costume Rule in 1900. The process of selection was based on the amount and easiness of embroidery. Second, the design of the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar is reflected the pattern of the preceding research, which was analyzed from the laws, the drawing document[Gwanbokjandoan], and artifacts. Third, the gold work embroidery in the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar was done. The embroidery material were composed of gold threads, such as rough purl, smooth purl, check purl, pearl purl, rococo, and spangle. Couching was used as an embroidery method. The coat was tailored after embroidering. The coat and the buttons were made after analyzing the artifacts. The result of this study can be utilized in the field of historical reconstruction of artifacts in the museum, the designing of stage costume in the performances of reenactment events, drama, and movie of Daehan Empire. Furthermore, this study is anticipated to contribute to the fundamental research of culture contents.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.9-17
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• 1985

The pur[pose of this study is to investigate the research method and to provide a guide to the ways in which researcher, interested in costume history, can obtain in formation. There are comparison, induction, observation, awnalysis, experience and synthesis in method of science. Firstly, comparative research is to ascertain the accumulated evidence. Secondly, we can compare with historical phenomenon. A research intend to verify the hypothesis based upon the sources of information. It is an available method to investigate the costumes and adornments in the past. Whatever the approach, the researcher much discribe the facts objectively. Historical research has been approached in many warys in the field of costume. There are visual and documentary sources. Visual sources are paintings, sculptutre, frescoes, coins, potteries, medals, mosaics, wall paintings, stained glasses, seals, tapestries, illustrations, photographs, movies, and fashion dolls. Documentary sources are archives, letters, diaries, literature, wardrobe accounts, sumpturary laws, newspapers, and recollections.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.217-227
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• 1997

Costume of each age reflects its own history. Military costume is an reflections of war, social and geometrical background. Soldiers on their uniforms were at the battlefields with their lives and country on their shoulders. The main purpose of this writing is to study military costume of ancient empires in historical Point of view including especially those of Egypt, Mesopotamia, Crete, Greece, Etruria, Rome. As we will see, ancient military costume developed from earlier stages of uniforms into military costume in various ways. The types of military costume formed itself gradually but rapidly into sophisticated, useful, and excellent quality clothes. Military costume of early ancient empires signified its strength and were actual and symbolic costume that determined life and death, glory and disgrace.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.46-54
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• 2005

The Purpose of this research was focused on analyzing how costume was exactly researched for film in comparison with the original Renaissance costume, and how to change the degree of brightness and chroma in costume of two films, 'Shakespeare in Love' and 'Elizabeth: The Virgin Queen'. For these purpose, each costume of main seven scenes was analyzed in terms of silhouette, detail, and trimming. Color image, brightness and chroma of costume were compared with the color chip data from Samsung Design Net. As results, costume from two films had exactness in historical research. but the original costumes were modernly changed by the purpose of director. Color image of costume were used proper colors for the characteristic of the story. Costumes of heroine was numerically changed at the degree qf the brightness and chroma through story-going. By this change, director could effectively give dramatic rhythm for the story. The limitation of this research was that color analysis had been conducted on the screen, and this fact might mean the original colors of film might be different from those of screen.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.21-34
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• 1992

A Research on specialty carpet(Rug) in ancient Kurea. Wool carpet culture takes an important part of ancient textile culture in ancient Korea. This research on specialty carpet culture of ancient Korea has been made form the view point of traditional textile history on the basis of historical documents and the collections.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2000년도 International Costume Culture Conference
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• pp.13-25
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• 2000

The nature of internationalisation is explored and the historical stages in the process described. A series of profiles of fashion companies, which have pursued policies of internationalisation, is presented. The challenges faced by fashion producers and retailers, as they enter the twenty-first century, are identified and the changing context of fashion consumption is recognised.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.68-84
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• 2006

The aim of this study is to examine a structure of trousers worn by males in the western world during the 17th and 18th centuries in order to understand the characteristics of evolution in construction. it mainly examined engravings from these era because they provided me fine and detailed portrayals of what it needed to observe. Then, it classified them into models according to each era. it supplemented a flaw of depending on single type of studying material by examining other types of historical materials such as historical paintings and documents for comparative analysis of materials and decorations and previous studies on preserved historical documents to observe the examples of structures of trousers. Secondly, it studied both historical documents and previous studies on the trousers patterns used back in those days, analyzed the characteristics of each designing method by actually draping these patterns, and observed the differences in these completed patterns to understand the characteristics of changes in fashion design skill. As for the changes in length, these patterns show only a slight difference around above and below the knee line. However, the widths of waist, hip, girth and hem were significantly altered over the years to reduce wrinkles and the cutting lines became more refined to make the clothes fit to the body. As a result, a simple but fine patterning technique was born. In particular, new methods in cutting and sewing were invented for detailed parts such as waist, pocket, front and slit.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권2호
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• pp.360-378
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• 2018

Noeui was a garment used for women's outfits and robes. In the late Joseon Dynasty it was a special garment that could only be worn by the class belonging to the royal family. Noeui was especially prepared as a wedding dress, and was worn by the bride at the Chinyeong ceremony on the day of the wedding ceremony. Until now, Noeui did not have in depth research at the costume history despite its importance as a royal costume in the Joseon Dynasty. Thus, based on Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (which is the only material with a diagram of Noeui and its pattern) this study historically investigated and restored the Noeui set of Queen Jangryeol, which was arranged in 1638, when King Injo and Queen Jangryeol were married. This academic study is the first to historically confirm and restore Queen Noeui's set, and rigorously analyze the historical materials as well as provide new comments on the shapes of Noeui's Git and the front side.