• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1836-1843
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• 2010

This research examines the possibilities of a traditional costume revival and digital exhibition as well as the application of 3D virtual clothing modeling data in order to preserve and record a disappearing costume heritage to realize it as a social education tool through the newly emerging technology of 3D virtual clothing. A 3D revival of costumes worn by royal families and aristocrats was accomplished through the 3D animation and simulation technology of Maya 2011 (Autodesk, Inc.) and Qualoth (FX Gear, Inc.). The simulation shows the possibility of a 3D revival and digital exhibition of costume heritage. However, further technology support to analyze and realize the composition and design is still necessary to develop the digital contents of traditional garment culture that includes skirt pleats, petticoat silhouettes, that exaggerates the skirts and knots of traditional upper garments (Jeogori). Further studies on design attributes of historic costumes and the upgrading of 3D simulation software are required to realize 3D virtual clothing. Korean traditional costumes will be revived as a cultural content in the digital era as a result of outstanding issues detected by this study.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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• no.48
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• pp.549-569
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• 2012

Since 1995, the Local autonomy era has opened, local festivals have been increasing throughout the country. Traditional culture festivals are also increasing. Performing traditional culture festivals is effective for maintenance and transmission of traditional culture as well as creation and nurturing of local culture. They are also effective promoting local economy. Depending on realization level of character, place and costume based on historic research, traditional culture festivals are classified as the "Representation event" or the "Reenactment event". But there are two problems. The first is unexacting classification method for festival types made by Central government yearly. The second is unable to meet one of two goals which are protecting traditional culture and stimulating local economy throughout increasing tourists. The purpose of this study is to suggest improvement of classification method for festival types, and to offer two suggestions for ensure successful local festivals. First of all, I suggest advanced classification method for festival types. For more sophisticated collection process of national festival status, local government department should ensure purpose of festivals, and central government department should add 3 steps to existing process. For example professional committee for judgement of festival types should be founded for consulting of local and central government department. The second suggestion is reinforcement of historic research for the Representation of traditional culture event. The representation of traditional culture should focus on protection of tradition, and could be perfect by continuous historic research. The last suggestion is cooperation with local governments each other for the Reenactment of traditional culture event. The Reenactment of traditional culture should focus on promoting local economy by increasing tourists. So local governments who have similar traditional events should cooperate to get preventing loss of resource and overcome weakness of promoting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.924-936
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• 2008

The purpose of this thesis is to discuss corsets that represent an undergarment that later became a popular outerwear. It discusses its forms and distinct characteristics to help create a unique fashion design and its execution. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The results of this study are summarized as follows: The standard look of corsets in modern fashion can be classified into styles of glamour, revival, and dismantle. The materials used vary from traditional fabrics such as satin or lace to newly developed materials such as metal or glass. Its presentation can also differ in that it may be used as an accessory with additional details, as an outerwear, as an extra decorative layer, or as a revealing innerwear by open outerwear. Characteristics of these various looks of corsets are; first, it redefines the revival of the traditional corsets through introduction of its historic elements and its compromise. Second, glamorous and feminine images are maximized through drastic and direct exposure by using tight lacing, a waist nipper or garter belts that emphasize a woman's curve. Third, it represents borderless dismantlement through experimental and irregular images using unconventional materials, new execution techniques, or alteration from the standard forms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.98-112
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• 2014

Since 2010, Goth styles have risen rapidly in prominence as one of the major trends of fashion. This study intends to understand the Goth style shown from the modern fashion by examining its historically formative characteristics and internal meanings of the Goth style. With mystic attitude toward the medieval Gothic culture, Goth style refers to its reproduction over the cultural circles including music, literature and arts. From the result of the historical review, the formative characteristics of the Goth style may be divided into darkness, distortion, memento mori and bricolage. The historical review of the Goth style contains symbolic meaning of mystery, terror, escape and theatricality. After 2000, Goth style, in combination with factors such as postmodernism and human desire, has been established as the main trend of modern fashion, going with the popular culture. The formativeness of modern Goth fashion is the same as that of Goth style examined from the historic review. However, in modern Goth fashion, the symbolic meaning has the processes of the new: unconsciousness, kitsch, overthrow and popularity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.125-139
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• 2002

This research was conducted to develop soccer uniform designs for the enforcement of the identity of Korea. Throughout the development of the image of Taeguek and the pattern of tiger on the soccer uniform design, it was tried to show colors and symbolic elements representing Korean traditional themes. The contents of the research cover; first, analysis of historic changes in Korean uniform design for the representative soccer players and uniform designs of the soccer players in other countries; second, analysis of the image of Taeguek and the pattern of tiger; third, analysis of the surveys of professional soccer players; and forth, uniform designs proposed and evaluation. To develope new uniform designs, Taeguek and tiger motives were adopted to express the identity of Korea by looking at the analysis of uniforms in countries including Korea. In an addition, today's fashion trends of active sportswear were analyzed to get the new idea of design. With considering the surveys of the professional soccer players in Korea, the functional designs identifying the Korean image could have come out. As a results of this research new designs of national soccer players' uniform including 4 designs for the motif of Taeguek, 4 designs for the motif of guae, 4 designs for colors of Taeguek, 4 designs for the motif of Tiger were developed, and 2 samples were made. Surveys for evaluation comparing new design & present uniform were progressed. An aesthetic and symbolic aspects of new design were better than present uniform regarding this survey.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.91-107
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• 1999

The primary purpose of this study is to inquire into the characteristic of exposure presented in fashion, identify the correct concept of exposure from an aesthetic perspective, and grasp the contemporary meaning of exposure presented in fashion. As a result of study, the following findings were obtained: First, the surrealist style of fashion exhibited representations such as the relocation of the partial details, the harmonization of the natural and the artificial, the emphasis or expansion of each part of the body, and the like. It used highlighted the genital region with ornamentations or used the technique of paradoxically exposing the part of the body always covered. And it exbibited the paradoxical relationship of exposure and concealment by exposing the concealed part of the human body. Second, the post-modern style showed the complicated phenomenon that the values of several meanings such as the historic, the folk, and the like appeared in its fashion. It shares in spatiotemporal eclecticism, pluralistic characteristics and the like found in the post-modern culture. Third, the deconstructive style gets rid of the distinction between the external space and the private space by translating underwears into outer garments. It destroys clothing by tearing or perforating clothing whereby it represents the poor image. Coupled with women‘s psychology of exposure and the new generation’s way of thinking indifferent to others‘ eyes, this fashion of deconstruction occupies the great current of fashion. Deconstructive fashion gets away with the rule of ‘having to wear clothing to suit TPO(Time, Place and Occasion), the traditional norm of wearing clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.53-70
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• 1996

The inspiration and its application in fashion design is considered as one of the important factors in boosting the fashion arena. Many inspirations are adapted in fashion de-sign and they make the fashion design unique and characteristic. In this study many fashion designs are analyzed to find what kind of inspirations were adapted and utilized for the fashion design in reality. The nature historic costumes ethcin costumes arts sciences literature music sports were revealed as the sources of fashion inspiration.l The concerns on the environments movies and dramas could provide inspirations in fashion as well. Several contents or steps were studied to provide the one of the example of appli-cations as follows: 1. The works of Marc Chagall were analized to figure out and several plastic characteristics from his works were revealed such as fantastic strong colors unreal animal pattern or their details his wife and friends various divisions of the surface and so on. These attributes had been favored in depiction of his works to ex-press his home town or nostalgia. 2. '90s fashion designs inspired by the works of Chagall were analized to find out the meth-odology or the process of designs. The same Chagall colors were used in design and similar pattern were expressed through beaded work or printing jobs. The surface designs such as printing were the most prefered method in adapting the inspirations. 3. The plastic characteristics of the work of Chagall were attempted in clothing design and construction. The color combination patterns which remind the animals the surface divisions were used in design ot practive the methodologies.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.529-541
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of PRADA's sports fashion, leading the fashion trend and one of the most influenced designers in 1990's, and thereby, helps to forecast them in the future. We studied the concept of sports fashion and the historic background of PRADA sports fashion. We also used corroborative method resolving Internet illustrated magazine, fashion journals and magazines so as to analyze the aesthetic and formative features from 1990's up to now. The results were summarized as follows ; The sports fashion in 1990's was classified into functional sportswear and town sports look. The functional sportswear can be separated into active sportswear and street sportswear. Town sports look that has been combined the elements of design in active sportswear had characters slim silhouette and simple details influenced by minimalism and reflected on the mainstream of 1990's lifestyle. Especially, PRADA's town-wear using high-tec textiles for sportswear affected on other couturiers and settled down them in the world wide fashion trend with her aesthetic expression. The aesthetic characteristics of PRADA's sports fashion appear the zenith of the minimalism and the elements of postmodernism which expressed remarkably the advanced future and familiar past at the same time as like high-tec materials, and classic silhouettes with functional details. Finally, we are able to anticipate that the aesthetics of PRADA sports look will be continued in the 21C with concerning about well-being, health, and sports & leisure.