• 건축역사연구
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.75-86
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• 2016

This paper examines the pagodas during the Bagan period, which are thought to be most valuable among those in Myanmar. They have not been sufficiently studied, in spite of their high Buddhist status. It considers the contemplation of Pato, their formal characteristics in the Bagan period and the formal categorizations of pagodas in the same period. Thus, following seven kinds of conclusions are derived: first, researchers provide opinions to the Pato which should be regarded as the Buddhist shrine-type of pagoda with a unique Bagan form, symbolically indicating that Theravada Buddhism incorporated Hinduism; second, the terraces were characteristic components in pagodas, during the Bagan period, which were built after the enthronement of King Anawratha and are thought to symbolically express the wish to widely spread Theravada Buddhism; third, Shwesandaw Zedi seems to affect not only Shwezigon Zedi, a representative standard form of pagoda in Myanmar, but also Ananda Pato; fourth, it is thought to be proper to examine the terraces by classifying them into lower, central(from pedestals to Angryeon and Bokryeon) and upper part, if it intends to divide a pagoda with bell-shaped body on the terraces during the Bagan period, into three parts; fifth, the Pato may be identified as a form of pagoda during the Bagan period, and such a form can be classified as that of Sikhara on the rectangular terrace; sixth, forms of Myanmar's pagodas can be classified into fourteen kinds of them, and they may be also grouped into transmitted, general and special type; and seventh, on the basis of the findings, it is thought that the pagodas during the Bagan period may be classified into six forms, and they can be largely categorized into transmitted, general and special type.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.67-78
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• 2016

Research on ancient Indonesian 'sacred cloths' is essential since it shows a different perspective into Indonesian identity. Based on its function, the 'sacred cloths' are either made as a medium for religious ceremonies or as a medium for the living and the dead. The consuetude of preparing and creating the 'sacred cloths' are done to achieve the finest 'sacred cloths' worthy to be presented to God. The research aims to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles and to focus on the 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts, and this paper is the first part. The paper analyzes the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles by focusing on the period, religion, region, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The subsequent research analyzes the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles by focusing on the techniques and the patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' In this first part of the main research, the analysis reveals that animism developed in various ways in Indonesia from 500 BC to AD 1800. It was also as kingdoms of Buddhist, Hinduism, and Islam. The changes of religion may differ according to its region. Indonesian regions are divided into six big regions that produce textiles. These islands are Sumatra, Borneo, Java, Celebes, Nusa Tenggara, and Bali. By space and time, the colors of Indonesian textiles represent the ideology of one religion. Indonesia produces primary colors of red, yellow, and blue(RYB). The colors are produced by extracting leaves of Indigo, Indian Mulberry root shell, Sappanwood's branches, Candlenut fruit, Turmeric root, and Mangosteen rind. Indonesia is a religious country, therefore the meaning of creating each 'sacred cloth' shows piety of the maker and the wearer.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.47-64
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• 2014

A variety of traditional costumes have been developed in Asia due to different natural and cultural environments and they are still worn by people in many areas. Traditional costumes in Asia have been formed under the influence of various ideologies, as well as technology and social structure. Three Asian religions(Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam), which have undeniably strong influence on traditional Asian cultures, have great effects on the styles of traditional costume in each region of Asia. The purpose of this study is to compare the characteristics and aesthetic values of traditional Asian costumes. To do this, the author used images of traditional costumes, which were taken in person by the author, in each region of Asia as reference. Unlike the traditional costumes in the West, which expose the body shape, traditional Asian costumes have nonstructural features in construction, form and wearing rules. They are also decorated with religious symbols and other ornaments, which is different from functional and non-decorative modern clothes. Each traditional Asian costume has unique characteristics. The costume under the influence of Buddhism shows the beauty of concealment that features trans-spatiality and abundant silhouette. On the other hand, the Hindu costume shows the beauty of symbolization represented by very colorful and complex ornaments, while costume in the Islam regions shows the beauty of restraint with clothes that wrap up the body in accordance with its strict religious discipline. Asian religions also represent philosophy, culture as well as an ethnic group. They have influenced entire Asian cultures including the arts, aesthetics and social structure and decided the style of costumes.

• 복식
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• 제67권4호
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• pp.38-57
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• 2017

Traditional costume in Indonesia represents identity of a person and it displays the origin and the status of the person. Where culture and religion are fused, the traditional costume serves one of the most functions in rituals in Bali. This research aims to analyze the characteristics of Balinese costumes by focusing on the Legong dance costume. Quantitative research was performed using 332 images of Indonesian costumes and 210 images of Balinese ceremonial costumes. Qualitative research was performed by doing field research in Puri Saba, Gianyar and SMKN 3 SUKAWATI(Traditional Art Middle School). The paper illustrates the influence and structure of Indonesian traditional costume. As the result, focusing on the upper wear costume showed that the ancient era costumes were influenced by animism. They consist of tube(kemben), shawl(syal), corset, dress(terusan), body painting and tattoo, jewelry(perhiasan), and cross. The Modern era, which was shaped by religion, consists of baju kurung(tunic) and kebaya(kaftan). The Balinese costume consists of the costume of participants and the costume of performers. Bali dancing is grouped into Wali dance(sacred), Bebali dance(theatrical), and Balih-balihan dance(entertainment). The Legong dance is included in the Balih-balihan dance, and its costume developed from 1920 until present. The characteristics of Legong dance costumes are 'Theatrical,' 'Angelic,' 'Charming,' and 'Decorative.' In conclusion, the balance of religion, culture, and art gives a unique trait in Bali. The Balinese social system, which is based on Hinduism, has influenced art and its function. This relationship creates a strong structure to the Balinese ceremonial costume, especially the Legong dance costume.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.21-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to research the symbolistic values of western beards' style in the twentieth century. Namely, it is to consider the relationship between social-cultural factors and aesthetic meanings of western beards' style. The contents are, firstly, studying the conception and the types of beard. A beard is the hair that grows on a person's chin, cheeks, neck, and the area above the upper lip. At the World Beard & Moustache Championships, there are moustache category (natural, english, hungarian, dali, fu manchu, freestyle), beard category (natural, musketeer, goatee, sideburns, freestyle), and full beard category (natural, garibaldi, verdi, van dyck, freestyle), Secondly, this paper is continued by researching the history of beard from the ancient to the present day, and thirdly, analyzing political dictatorship, social resistance and expression of personality, religious dignity, related with the change of world situation, the formation of postmodern anti-culture and pop-culture, and the coexistence of traditional culture. There are long and bushy full beards in some religions like Hinduism, Judaism and Islam. The meanings of their beards are purity, life and holiness. The beards of some politicians symbolize dictatorship. Namely, the chaplin of Hitler, the moustache of Hussein and the musketeer of Castro express strong power and charisma. In 1950s'-70s' subcultures, Hipsters' goatee, Bikers' horseshoe, Beat generations' goatee and Hippies' natural represent the lack of adaptability and social resistance. Also, the celebrities and artists like Ronald Colman, Clark Gable, Don Johnson, George Clooney, and Salvador Dali express freedom, personality, and taste with beards. For that matter, the symbolistic values of beards' style in the twentieth century are the religious dignity, the political dictatorship, the social resistance and the expression of personality. Today the beards' style is one of fashion items as well as a symbol of masculinity, customs and classes.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2018

Pagodas in Myanmar can be largely divided into Zedi and Pato. Zedi is a developed form of the early domed pagodas in India and Sri Lanka, which can be found in the introduction of Buddhism in Myanmar and the comparison of early pagodas in India, Sri Lanka and Myanmar. On the other hand, Pato is where statues of Buddha were enshrined, which is why many scholars referred to it as a temple. However, this study proposes that Pato shall be referred to as a temple-style pagoda in a form unique to Myanmar, based on the origin of Pato, definition of pagodas, and Sarira Enrichment Record of Pato. Moreover, it seems more appropriate to name this type of structure Stupa Temple(塔殿) or Stupa Shrine(塔堂) rather than a Buddhist temple(佛殿) or Buddhist shrine(佛堂) for clear distinction. Pato, or temple-style pagodas, has a ${\acute{S}}ikhara-style$ structure at the center like Ananda Pato upon entering the Pagan (Bagan) kingdom period, on which Zedi-style structures are built. As a result of examining the integration of various Buddhist schools and religions focused on Theravada during the period of King Anawrahta and King Kyanzittha, the ${\acute{S}}ikhara-style$ structure is a symbolic representation of the fact that Theravada embraced Hinduism. The common features shared by pagodas in Myanmar are the centrality of place and the verticality of $y{\check{a}}ngti{\bar{a}}n$ (looking up to the sky) in terms of shape. All temples are placed at the most important and central space, and their forms represent strong religious $y{\check{a}}ngti{\bar{a}}n$ and verticality. These are the features that stand out most among various pagodas in Buddhist countries.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.758-769
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the traditional embroidery in India by region based on Bourdieu's cultural theory. As the research methods for this study, literature and case studies were conducted. The results of the study are summarized as follows. First, India's regions could be divided into four distinct regions based on language and religion. The main concepts of Bourdieu's cultural theory, namely the sub-dimensions of field and habitus, were the field of social system, the field of goods & economy, the field of environment/region, culture, and ethnicity. Second, Eastern India's embroidery was influenced by Hinduism and traditional art. The embroidery used various fabrics such as the Applique work, and vivid colors and patterns were mainly used in the Hindu myths, animals, and flower patterns of the embroidery. Third, embroidery in Western India was influenced by exotic cultures like Persian due to geographical conditions, and embroidery via the use of gold threads and various ornaments was developed. Symbolized flower patterns and geometric patterns were used a lot in the respective embroidery. Fourth, embroidery in southern India was influenced by the Dravidian culture and their architectural style, which saw the emergence of an embroidery that used simple colored cross-stitch. Most of the patterns in this embroidery are geometricized. Fifth, Northern Indian embroidery has historically served as the center of power, resulting in an embroidery that uses various forms and materials. In this embroidery, flower patterns are mainly used. Finally, the characteristics of the traditional embroidery of India's each region is based on Bourdieu's cultural theory, which could be summarized as ethnic religiosity, exotic splendor, structural formality, and symbolic power.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제19권12호
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• pp.615-622
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• 2019

근래 인도에서의 잔혹한 집단 성폭행 사건에 대한 보도를 자주 접하고 있다. 인도에서 가장 부각된 집단 성폭행 사건은 2012년 의대생인 조티 싱을 버스에서 6명이 집단 성폭행한 후 성기와 장기를 손상해 사망하게 만든 사건이다. 이 사건을 계기로 성폭행에 대해 사형까지도 포함한 강력한 처벌 법안이 발의되고 통과되었다. 그러나 그 이후로도 성폭행은 여전히 증가하고 있다. 이에 성폭행 사건 발생지역을 중심으로 지역적 특성과의 연관성을 살펴본 결과, 언론에 보도된 집단 성폭행 사례의 대부분이 인도 중북부에서 발생하는 것으로 나타났으며, 이것은 지역적으로 힌두 강세지역과 일치하는 것을 확인하였다. 그렇다면 그 원인은 여성 경시가 심각한 힌두 근본주의가 그 원인이라고 결론 내릴 수밖에 없다. 힌두 근본주의자들은 강한 복고주의적 경향을 가지고 여성에 관한 전통적 가치를 부활시키려 한다. 인도 사회에서 여성은 아직도 종속적인 피해 위험에 노출되어 있다. 집권당과 정치지도자들의 힌두 근본주의 노선 추구는 인도 여성의 사회적 지위와 인권을 개선하는 데는 많은 시간이 더 필요할 것으로 보인다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.935-946
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• 2008

종교는 인간을 궁극적인 삶의 조건과 관련시키는 일련의 상징적인 형식과 행위이다. 종교사상은 상징을 통해 세상을 이해하고 또 상징을 통해 행위를 유발한다. 본 연구는 종교가 복식에 미치는 영향과 그 메커니즘을 규명하는데 목적을 두고 문헌을 중심으로 연구를 하였다. 세계 고등 종교 중 불교, 힌두교, 이슬람교를 중심으로 연구하였으며, 종교의 여러 구성요소가 의례로 표현되고, 복식으로 표출되는 메커니즘을 연구하며, 그러한 일련의 과정을 도식화하여 제시하는 것에 목표가 있다. 믿음체계, 경험, 공동체, 의례 등 종교의 구성요들은 긴밀한 상호 연관성을 갖는다. 특히 의례는 종교적 의미를 표현하는 상징적 행위이자 실천이며, 구원의 방편이다. 모방의례, 긍정적 혹은 부정적 의례, 희생의례, 통과의례 등의 종교적 의례들은 제사와 같은 종교 예식은 물론, 종교음악이나 복식, 건축, 미술 등의 조형예술로 표현되어 왔다. 종교는 삶의 의미를 밝혀 주고, 불안이나 갈등과 같은 문제의 해결책을 제시해 주는 신앙체제로서 복식을 포함한 문화 전반에 큰 영향력을 끼쳐 오고 있다.

• 수완나부미
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.57-90
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• 2012

This essay is for a study on the survey of buddhist cultural literary document about the Southeast Asia by Nanqishu(南齊書), Liangshu(梁書), Chiu T'angshu(舊唐書), Hsin T'ang shu(新唐書) which are included in the Chinese Official History and Jí-shénzhōu-sānbăo-găntōng-lù(集神州三寶感通錄), Weioshu Shilao Ji (魏書 釋老志). These documents allows us to imagine next some historical states. First, these documents are recording this area, especially Funan, as a plentiful diggings of gold, silver, tin, copper, etc. These are important materials for gilt bronze sculptures. Further, this local produced gold called 'Yangmai(楊邁)' is recognized as same as Zĭmòjīn(紫磨金) in china, and these documents explains the process of producing the bronze images and golden ornaments in Southeast Asia. Specially, this plentiful materials leads them to make a 10 wei(圍) tall golden-silver image which worshiped as hindu god or sometimes buddhist images. Second, Vietnam and Funan in Northern and Southern Dynasty periods were in antagonistic relationship not only in the political but also in religious between Vietnamese Hinduism and Funan's Buddhism. Under this situation, the monk Nagaxian(那伽仙) who had came from India was accredited to Southern Qi court as a delegate to build a good relationship by the common religion Buddhism. It means the Buddhism of Southeast Asia also took a role of diplomacy. Third, these documents proved the active Southeast Asian cultural exchange in early 3th century. At this time, Funan delegate Suwu(蘇物) visited the court of Kushan Dynasty in India and he is seemed to travel the city of Pātaliputra. It oppressed us to extend our outlook which have been restricted in the relationship between Southern india and Southeast Asia to more broaden area. In addition, the buddhist art of Southern India and Bodhgaya temple was imported to Southeast Asia directly to send to Southern China. For example, the wooden buddha image, Bodhgaya stupa image, and Sri Lanka style's buddha images are looked be introduced to Southern China at this time throughout the Southeast Asia. At last, we got to know that the court music of Kucha in the northern silk route was imported to the Southeast Asia in early middle age. Even it may be introduced by China, but this document is very important to make the surmise is not unreasonable that the buddhist culture of northern silk route imported to the Southeast Asia accompanied with Kucha music. The buddha images in Gandharan style which are excavated from some site of Southeast Asia may demonstrate this literary sources is authentic.