• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.140-159
• /
• 1994

Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.14 no.3 s.35
• /
• pp.196-207
• /
• 1990

The western heraldry influenced by the style of periodic art, the lion and the eagle charges were expressed simply and laconically in Romanesque period, laconically but forcibly in Gothic period, and elegantly and elaborately in the period of the Renaissance. The symbolical character of each charge expressed in the heraldry in the process of the changes of the times can be summarized as follows: 1) The ferocious beast like the eagle or the lion in the heraldry is symbolic of a majestic appearance of sovereign's. 2) The legendary or mythical monster in the heraldry is the symbol of holding sacred the heraldry owner endowed superhuman ability from him, or the symbol of coercion or menace to the other party on the appearance of being sized with fear. 3) The domestic animals or the poultry in the heraldry are chiefly symbolic of intrepidity, bravery, sacrifice, or faithfulness, which can be supposed a subject's loyalty to his sovereign. 4) The lamb or the cross in the heraldry is the charge concerned with Christ who brought a fundamantal thought in the middles ages. So they can be said the symbol of Christianity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.44
• /
• pp.153-167
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study was to supply the opportunity of being used as a material which can predict future fashion. This study had been divided the symbolic meaning into three parts. The first part was the symbolic expressions in the materials of modern fashion, and the second part was symbolic meaning which was expressed in the accessories, and the last part was the symbolic meaning which was expressed in the physical ornament. The results could be summarized as follows. First, among the forms of heraldry were expressed in modern Fashion, were such as animals like a lion and eagle, which evoked the powerful and lively mood. A vegetable heraldry was expressed on a pattern of textile fabric to pursue the beauty of dress, represented female and classical beauty. A inanimate object heraldry was included all natural material that didn't have all lives the world, represented the mystery and intensity of nature as using the design that sets off the idea through color and figure. Second, in the case of being the forms of heraldry used as a mark or logo in modern fashion, it was visualized the fashion of traditional sense, marine look and military look. This mark or logo had important characteristics of symbolic in that the product had a special meaning and function by trade mark. Third, tattos were used to heighten the people's union in the various subordinate cultures. By ornamenting their bodies, they expressed their special identity and consciousness. Tattos represented a unique menas, which effected a mood of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.4
• /
• pp.27-40
• /
• 2004

In this thesis, the connectivity between the military culture in the Middle Ages and costumes by researching the effect on the clothing in the Middle Ages of the culture of knight from the 11th century to middle of the 15th century was tried to be recognized. The culture of knight was widely divided into 4 articles - Chivalry, Tournamemt, The equipment of knight, Heraldry - and then researched. The conclusion after researching the influence of the culture of knight upon the clothing in the Middle Age in the above is as follows. Regarding the clothing, the military culture such as the crusader war, armor, and heraldry was popularized over the entire Middle Ages as the military-look style, and regarding the ornament the result of the crusader war caused the introduction of the Eastern civilization and development of the commerce and industry, and also trade, and consequently the ornament became luxurious. Regarding the footwear, when seeing the Gothic shoes, it can be found that it is similar with the knight's shoes made of the metal. As seen in the above, it can be recognized that the culture of knight caused the huge influence upon the whole politics, culture, and society in the Middle Ages as well as upon the costumes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.5 no.3
• /
• pp.129-143
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to pigeonhole theoretical notions of asymmetry and historical flow of asymmetry designed dresses, understand the trend of asymmetry design in modern fashion and find out its plastic character. The result of this study is as follows. The asymmetry is un-harmony artistic structure that unbalanced left and right in designing. The asymmetry fashion were seen that drapery dress of Egypt, Greece, Rome in ancient times and design by strong color contrast in heraldry and hose, accessory in the middle ages. In modern times, it was seen as complicated and mixed appearance by the influence of post-modernism. The asymmetry designs in modern fashion are shown varied styles by asymmetry of silhouette, detail, fabric, wearing method. The characters of these are a sense of de-construction, formative sense, and exaggeration The asymmetry design must be made by cutting, sewing, and high degree of technique through the latest skill and study.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.4 no.2
• /
• pp.138-145
• /
• 2001

This study aims to compare the beauty of costume in the Gothic with that of Renaissance periods. By analyzing the beauty of costume which reflects the ideal of the age, this study attempts to provide the insight which can predict the beauty of future costume The characteristics of Gothic costume is the from of the loose enveloping of the body, which can be accounted for from the influence the Christian religion, and the emphasis on the vertical line influenced by the steeple in the Gothic architecture expressing the enthusiasm of the religion. The emphasis on height in the Gothic cathedrals was reflected in the hennin, pointed shoes, and lengthy sleeves of Gothic dress. The beauty of Gothic costume lies in the from of slender, the emphases on the vertical line, the we of heraldry and parti-color, and pointed hat and shoe. The Renaissance architecture shows a broad horizontal appearance. There is the similarity between the Renaissance costume and Renaissance architecture. The beauty of Renaissance costume lies in the form of the exposing body, the exaggerated silhouette, the emphasis on the horizontal line, the use of ruff and slash in order to display the beauty of human body and the beauty of cubic. The ideal beauty of Gothic and Renaissance costume was influenced by the spirit the age and was in contrast.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.177-188
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to appreciate Japanese clothing and ornament of the men's costume that showed a unique style of Japan as well as a mixture of foreign civilization in Edo period. The data related clothing, ornament and art of Japan were collected from books and slide films that had been studied in Japan, because the data studied in Korea were not enough. The results were as follows: First characteristic is. the dualism. The dualism was shown in the social class, estheticism and originality. In terms of the social class, the feudalism remained through their heraldry or mark of organization even though it was broken down. In terms of estheticism, it showed the coexistence of gorgeousness and plainness. In terms of the originality, it showed the coexistence of original Kosode and Kappa under the influence of Southern barbarians' mode. Second characteristic is the utility. $Ch{\check{o}}nin$ was needed to the functional clothing because of Its social position that had much activity. Therefore, the utility was shown in a simple silhouette of Haori and Hanten and in its way of wearing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.8
• /
• pp.1353-1364
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.