• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.73-82
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• 2018

This research investigated the mechanical properties of the 4 different types of $3{\times}3$ cable stitches on weft knitted fabrics. The 4 kinds of cable-stitch fabrics were knitted under the same knitting conditions, then the mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, elongation, stiffness, etc. were measured according to the Korean Industrial Standards (KS K 0642). The knitting time for the sample produced by the knitting process 1 was the shortest among the 4 different types of samples. It means that the knitting process 1 would have benefits of higher productivity if there is no yarn breakage during the knitting of the cable stitches. In the test for tensile strength, the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have tensile values of approximately 8~11% higher than the sample produced by knitting process 1. The test for elongation also shows that the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have up to 18% higher elongation values than the sample produced by knitting process 1. On the other hand, the stiffness test showed no significant difference between the 4 samples. This study is expected to increase the competitiveness of the local knitting industry as a result of providing basic data on the mechanical properties of special knitted stitches, such as cable stitches.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.331-338
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• 2000

To study on the actual condition of care label attached to clothing and consumers' perception, 250 summer clothes sold at department store-blouse, trousers, one-piece dress, knit cardigan and skirt-were investigated during July 2000. In addition, a questionnaire was administered to 192 women in Taegu during August. The fiber contents of surveyed clothes were polyester 100% & polyester blend (26%), rayon 100% & rayon blend (18%), cotton 100% & cotton blend (17%), wool 100% & wool blend (14%) and others. All clothes surveyed were attached care label and the signals showed on care labels were 4~6 kinds about cleaning, squeezing, drying, bleaching, and ironing methods. 92% of clothes had to be dry-cleaned and only 8% could be wet-cleaned. Considered the surveyed clothes were for summer which needs frequent washing and the clothing items, the number of clothes had to dry-cleaned were too many. The bleaching instructions were no chlorine bleach (74%), no bleaching (21%) and others. The ironing instructions were cool ironing ($80{\sim}120^{\circ}C$) with cover (24%) and warm ironing ($140{\sim}160^{\circ}C$) with cover (69%) primarily. The drying instructions was dry on a hanger in the shade (54%) and 38% had no signal or incorrect signal. The properties of summer clothes considered important by consumers were wrinkled hardly, hand-washable, machine-washable, needed no iron and etc. Actually most of summer clothes were hand or machine-washed. Also, the majority of respondents felt inconvenient to have to dry-clean summer clothes. More than 80% respondents looked over care label and fiber content label before buying clothes. However most of respondents did not followed that instructions exactly and thought care label instructions were not correct. Considered this results, the suppliers have to make efforts to attach correct and appropriate care label which furnish the correct information to consumers.

• 감성과학
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.141-148
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 생체모방기술을 응용하여 감성의류용 구조발색사를 방사하고, 이를 사용하여 직물을 제직 감량 가공하여 이들의 발색성 및 촉감 물성을 측정하여 감성의류용 용도의 적용성을 확인하여 다음과 같은 연구결과를 얻었다. 삼각단면을 가진 37층의 폴리에스테르와 나일론을 교호로 적층한 구조발색사의 방사조건을 확립하였으며, 이 세 가지 사의 발색성을 multi angle spectro-photometer로 확인하였다. 그리고 이 사들로 제직한 구조발색 직물 세 가지의 겉보기 색차와 반사율을 분석한 결과, 700nm에서 400nm까지의 파장에서 발색성을 확인하였다. 또한, 직물의 밀도와 조직이 다른 세 가지 구조발색 직물을 제직하고 감량 가공 처리하여 직물 역학특성치에서 촉감을 측정한 결과, $100^{\circ}C$, 60분 감량 처리한 시료가 최적설계(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) 및 감량 조건임을 확인할 수 있었다. 그리고 감량 처리 시 온도와 처리시간 증가에 따라 감량률이 13%에서 최대 23%까지 증가함을 확인할 수 있었다. 이때 직물의 신축특성, 굽힘강성 및 전단강성은 감소하며 압축특성은 증가하는 현상을 보였다. 그리고 최적설계조건인 1번 직물시료를 $100^{\circ}C$, 60분 감량 처리할 때 촉감이 가장 우수하며 일본 몰포 직물보다 더 우수한 촉감치를 얻었다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.113-124
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to designing a scientific and systematic merchandising program for infants' wear brands. For this purpose, designer and MD working for 8 local infants' wear brands were surveyed to analyze the conditions of their designing and merchandising of infants' wears. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Only 3 brands employed MD for their merchandising departments. The average number of clothing designers employed by the subject brands was 3-5, while that of colorists was 1-2, and that of accessory designers was 2-3. On the other hand, the average number of patternmakers employed was about 1, while that of sewer was 4. 2. Many of the sample infants' wear brands tended to collect and analyze the information for merchandising, while most of them relied less on outside planned data. The information source upon which they relied most was 'local and foreign fashion magazine', followed by 'data surveyed by local and foreign department stores' and 'data surveyed for local fabric markets' in their order. Meanwhile, the main color represented 70-90% of the total colors, while the pastel groups accounted for 30-40% and vivid color groups for 40-50%. On the other hand, knit accounted for about 60% of their materials, while woven and sweater accounted for 30% and 10%, respectively. 3. In overall terms, most of brands felt that their brands were preferred as much as or less than their competitive brands, while consumers felt expensive for infants' wears. Namely, most consumers were dissatisfied with the price levels of infants' wears. On the other hand, consumers were found to favor the pastel color groups a little more, while being aware of each brand's sizes more or less precisely. 4. The medium upon which the infants' wear brands depended most for their advertisement was 'magazine', followed by 'radio' and 'catalogue' in their order. Most of them were analyzing the results of their sale turnover monthly or frequently in order to review their sales performances in comparison with their competitors. Most of brands bothered to program a sale strategy 4 times a year, primarily to dispose the stocks or find a breakthrough for their sales activities.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권9호
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• pp.1546-1557
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• 2010

This study analyzes the status of foreign direct investment in Korean textiles and fashion firms and investigates the factors determining their performance. A total of 1,251 cases (including 1,116 manufacturers and 135 of distributors from the 2009/2010 Korean Overseas Business Directory published by KOTRA) were used. The results of this study are as follow: 1) In the case of manufacturers, China was the most heavily invested in country, and the Asian region that included China, Vietnam, Indonesia and Bangladesh consisted of 80% total investment. In cases of distributors, China was also the first ranking country and other countries, that included Vietnam, United States, and Japan are major ones. 2) In terms of the foreign entry mode, wholly-owned subsidiaries represented 90% of total cases. As the index of the degree of localization, the ratio of local employees was very high. 3) Different countries were utilized by year, type of business, and area of process. In manufacturers, Indonesia, China, and Vietnam were the most heavily utilized countries in the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s, respectively. For distributors, China was the major market ill the 1980s and 1990s but Vietnam has emerged as the biggest market in the 2000s. In terms of area of process, China was for manufacturing fibers and fabrics, Vietnam was for most items, Indonesia was for assembly, knit, accessories, and Bangladesh was for embroidery and accessories. 4) The determining factors of the age of foreign business as the proxy index and performance of foreign business entry, were different by the type of business. For manufacturers, four factors including the dollar amount of investment, number of local employees, the mode of foreign direct investment, and entry to China were significant. On the other hand, only two factors including the dollar amount of investment and entry (other than China) were significant distributors.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.43-51
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• 2009

The cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen or argon plasma, enzymes(cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and examined for their weight loss and conditions for treatment for the environment friendly finishing. In the plasma treatment argon gas had better effect on the weight loss than oxygen gas did and the weight loss of all the fabrics was increased as increasing discharge power and discharge time. The weight loss of cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) fabrics decreased in a large measure after 1 hr but that of tencel didn't decrease after 1 hr. In case of cellulose fibers oxygen gas plasma induced chemical functional groups on the surface of substrate more than argon gas plasma did so the weight loss of wool was larger than that of cotton, tencel fabrics in oxygen plasma-enzyme treatment. The weight loss of cotton and tencel fabrics decreased the initial stage because oxygen plasma pre-treatment caused cross linking as well as etching effect but argon plasma pre-treatment didn't. The plasma pre-treatment cleared the way for enzyme treatment on the whole but oxygen plasma pre-treatment bear in hand the increase of weight loss more or less because of the cross linking on the surface of cellulose fibers. The appropriate conditions for plasma treatment was 10-1Torr, 40W for 30minutes and for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of $3g/{\ell}$, pH 5, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of $4g/{\ell}$ pH 8, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative beauty, changes in fashion and aesthetical sense that can be seen in the bias drapings of Madeleine Vionnet and her influences on modern fashion since she used draping as a new fashion means to represent the new feminine images which modernism of the early 20th century and social changes from the two great World War's generated, and to provide proper data to encourage designers' creativity that is wanting in the circle of Korea fashion. Bias draping led women to respect worship their body from the heart with seductive modernism enriching the material's texture to the utmost through geometrical patterns of triangle, quartered plane and quardrants and simple cylindrical cuts and with an attribute adapting itself to the wearer's body. Bias draped wear consisted of light and transparent materials and overall surface decoration revealed women's movements and sought the extension of environmental movements and demonstrated its eroticism. On the other hand, biased daywear gained anonymity through cutting true to body line and psychological protective quality as of cape, and this went well with the independent femininity accepting difference as well as pursuing revolution from the inside. The great inflation and the 2nd World War gave birth to escape from reality like surrealistic artistic tendencies and Hollywood films and increased romanticism. Bias draping once underwent unpopularity except in expensive clothes due to knit wear boom and the utilization of new elastic materials, however, it began to receive lights again from pluralization waves and retro tendencies and to be introduced in many designers' collections. A young genius of England, John Galliano improved functions of Haute Couture through creation of new styles and fantastic shows to promote profits in the fashion markets. Bias draping fitted in human body line provides us comfort and aesthetic qualities through careful choice of material and elegance by delicate cutting.

• 감성과학
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.49-58
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• 2015

본 연구는 감성의류용 탄화지르코늄 함유 축열 니트의 원적외선 특성을 연구하였다. 탄화지르코늄 함유 축열 PET 원사가 이성분 방사법에 의해 방사되었다. 이 원사의 core부에는 고점도 PET와 탄화지르코늄을 혼합한 용액을, sheath부에는 저점도 PET 용액을 사용하여 콘쥬게이트 방사를 실시하였다. 이들 방사된 원사의 원소분석과 원적외선 특성 분석이 EDS와 FT-IR 계측기기에 의해 분석되었으며 두 가지 조직의 니트 소재를 편직하여 이들의 열적특성을 분석하였다. EDS 분석에서 Zr 피크를 확인하였으며 원사내에 Zr 원소가 19.29% 함유되어 있음을 확인하였다. 또한 원적외선 분석에서 $5{\sim}20{\mu}m$ 파장 영역에서 원적외선 방사에너지가 $3.65{\times}10^2W/m^2$, 방사율이 0.906 임을 확인하였다. KES-F7 측정기 분석에서 ZrC 함유 편성물의 Qmax 값이 일반 PET 편성물의 값보다 낮은 값을 보였고 보온율 값은 ZrC 함유 편성물이 일반 PET보다 더 높은 값을 보이므로서 ZrC의 축열성을 확인하였다. 열전도도는 Zr의 높은 열전도도 때문에 일반 PET 편물보다 더 높은 값을 보였다. ZrC의 함유가 편물의 촉감에 미치는 영향을 없었으며 편성 조직이 더 큰 영향을 주는 것을 확인하였다.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.

• Asia pacific journal of information systems
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.31-59
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• 2007

We frequently use search engines to find relevant information in the Web but still end up with too much information. In order to solve this problem of information overload, ranking algorithms have been applied to various domains. As more information will be available in the future, effectively and efficiently ranking search results will become more critical. In this paper, we propose a ranking algorithm for the Semantic Web resources, specifically RDF resources. Traditionally, the importance of a particular Web page is estimated based on the number of key words found in the page, which is subject to manipulation. In contrast, link analysis methods such as Google's PageRank capitalize on the information which is inherent in the link structure of the Web graph. PageRank considers a certain page highly important if it is referred to by many other pages. The degree of the importance also increases if the importance of the referring pages is high. Kleinberg's algorithm is another link-structure based ranking algorithm for Web pages. Unlike PageRank, Kleinberg's algorithm utilizes two kinds of scores: the authority score and the hub score. If a page has a high authority score, it is an authority on a given topic and many pages refer to it. A page with a high hub score links to many authoritative pages. As mentioned above, the link-structure based ranking method has been playing an essential role in World Wide Web(WWW), and nowadays, many people recognize the effectiveness and efficiency of it. On the other hand, as Resource Description Framework(RDF) data model forms the foundation of the Semantic Web, any information in the Semantic Web can be expressed with RDF graph, making the ranking algorithm for RDF knowledge bases greatly important. The RDF graph consists of nodes and directional links similar to the Web graph. As a result, the link-structure based ranking method seems to be highly applicable to ranking the Semantic Web resources. However, the information space of the Semantic Web is more complex than that of WWW. For instance, WWW can be considered as one huge class, i.e., a collection of Web pages, which has only a recursive property, i.e., a 'refers to' property corresponding to the hyperlinks. However, the Semantic Web encompasses various kinds of classes and properties, and consequently, ranking methods used in WWW should be modified to reflect the complexity of the information space in the Semantic Web. Previous research addressed the ranking problem of query results retrieved from RDF knowledge bases. Mukherjea and Bamba modified Kleinberg's algorithm in order to apply their algorithm to rank the Semantic Web resources. They defined the objectivity score and the subjectivity score of a resource, which correspond to the authority score and the hub score of Kleinberg's, respectively. They concentrated on the diversity of properties and introduced property weights to control the influence of a resource on another resource depending on the characteristic of the property linking the two resources. A node with a high objectivity score becomes the object of many RDF triples, and a node with a high subjectivity score becomes the subject of many RDF triples. They developed several kinds of Semantic Web systems in order to validate their technique and showed some experimental results verifying the applicability of their method to the Semantic Web. Despite their efforts, however, there remained some limitations which they reported in their paper. First, their algorithm is useful only when a Semantic Web system represents most of the knowledge pertaining to a certain domain. In other words, the ratio of links to nodes should be high, or overall resources should be described in detail, to a certain degree for their algorithm to properly work. Second, a Tightly-Knit Community(TKC) effect, the phenomenon that pages which are less important but yet densely connected have higher scores than the ones that are more important but sparsely connected, remains as problematic. Third, a resource may have a high score, not because it is actually important, but simply because it is very common and as a consequence it has many links pointing to it. In this paper, we examine such ranking problems from a novel perspective and propose a new algorithm which can solve the problems under the previous studies. Our proposed method is based on a class-oriented approach. In contrast to the predicate-oriented approach entertained by the previous research, a user, under our approach, determines the weights of a property by comparing its relative significance to the other properties when evaluating the importance of resources in a specific class. This approach stems from the idea that most queries are supposed to find resources belonging to the same class in the Semantic Web, which consists of many heterogeneous classes in RDF Schema. This approach closely reflects the way that people, in the real world, evaluate something, and will turn out to be superior to the predicate-oriented approach for the Semantic Web. Our proposed algorithm can resolve the TKC(Tightly Knit Community) effect, and further can shed lights on other limitations posed by the previous research. In addition, we propose two ways to incorporate data-type properties which have not been employed even in the case when they have some significance on the resource importance. We designed an experiment to show the effectiveness of our proposed algorithm and the validity of ranking results, which was not tried ever in previous research. We also conducted a comprehensive mathematical analysis, which was overlooked in previous research. The mathematical analysis enabled us to simplify the calculation procedure. Finally, we summarize our experimental results and discuss further research issues.