• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.293-304
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamono-katary$\boxUl$This book is a novel de-scribed the Royal Court from 883 till 1107. In this book many kinds of Garments Orna-ments Colors and Materials were mentioned. But in this paper 69 kinds of Garments and Ornaments were reserched and the rest will be reported in the next paper, The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. All the things of this book were reflections of the reality in Heian period. 2. The main styling of that period was a little bit soft but the straight silhouette were fashioned, . In that time Clothing had a special meaning and the manner for a fashion was very important, .3 In the female garments Karakoromo were developed many kinds of pattern by dyeing method, Especially the Surizome was fashioned very much. 4. there were many kinds of gray tone like as clerical robe and mouning dress. This was the effection of Buddism style. 5. The decoration of fablics and garments were usualized for instance smooding and luster by beating and starch sewuing a piece of gold silver and shell nakabe and knot bend. Shawl Yumaki and Kosizasi was a charming point of that time, . 6, hair decoration shose parasol rain coat etc, . were developed and use freuently.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.87-98
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate body image as attitude toward physical appearance, and appearance-management behavior, and to analyze the relationship between body image and life style which affects consumer behavior. The method of the study was survey research by using questionnaires. Subjects were 323 women in their twenties. Statistical analysis methods were frequency, percentage. factor analysis, discrimination analysis, one-way ANOVA, x 2- test, and Duncan's multiple range test. The results of the study were as follows. As for appearance-management behaviors of woman in her twenties. 60.1% of all respondents experienced in diet. 31.6% experienced in plastic operation, 47.4% experienced in skin care, 44.9% experienced in perfect make up, and 84.8% experienced in hair dyeing. The group with high appearance concern showed high body satisfaction. Life-style factors were analyzed into 5 factors. The group with low appearance concern considered active family-focus life factor importantly, the group with middle appearance concern considered social life factor, and the group with high appearance concern considered self-focus life type and conspicuous consumption life factor. A significant difference was found in body image between groups according to social level and demographic characteristics. The female group in the mid twenties who majors in arts and athletics, resides on southern part of Han river, and belongs to high society was analyzed to show high appearance concern and body satisfaction. and many experiences of appearance-management behaviors.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.155-169
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary (원씨물어)$\lrcorner$. This book is a novel written by a Japanese sextant worked in the Royal Court around the year 1010. In this book, about 110 different kinds of Garments, Ornaments, Colors and Materials were mentioned. The results of this paper were as follows. 1. About the Garments 8f Ornaments ; All the Clothing and Textiles in $\ulcorner$Genjimonkatary$\lrcorner$ were reflections of the reality of that time. In the Clothing, Color, Textile and even Hair style, the Symbol of Buddism appeared. Many technical methods were developed in the garment shaping, dyeng and wearing methods. 2. About the Colors Sf Dyes; There were many kinds of Color SE Dyes described in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary$\lrcorner$. This means color was developed more than other elements in that period. Among them, gray and black colors were mentioned, this means Buddist Color was fashioned in that period. $\ulcorner$Kasaneno-irome (강색목)$\lrcorner$ was changed from Ungan (운간) that had been origined of China and Korea. But it became one of the Japanese Costume. That have some reasons, for instance, high materials could not be imported from other countris and many people were controlled by the Taboo of clothing (금제) so they wanted the better method, such as Kasaneno-irome. Many kinds of colors'name was origined from flowers and plants. It also represented the seasons. Yurusi-iro (청색) was meaning the permitable color to the popular people. Without the head word, Deep Color' and 'Pale Color' meant those things of the purple and red. 3. About the Materials IE Patterns : The materials imported from other country, China and Korea, were good in quality, but those produced in Japan were not good. There were many kinds of dyeing method, especially Srijome (신염) was very special and nice method in that period.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.49-58
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of covering yarn's twist on mechanical properties of knitted fabrics of composite yarns with single covering process. Four yarns that were used in this study: two different composite yarns made from the four kinds of cotton and functional polyester-(Poly-A) with the ratio of 52:48, and the rest two yarns are the original cotton 100% yarn and the poly-A 100% yarn. The two kinds of composite yarns, CP1 and CP2, were processed on the single covering process. CP1 was applied on the single covering process with S-800 tpm, where Poly-A was used as covering yarn and cotton was used as core yarn. CP2 was applied on the same process as CP1 except that Poly-A had been applied on the two-for-one twisting process with S-400 tpm on the previous step. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the four knifed fabrics knitted under the same knitting conditions were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. And 3D CAD dressmaking simulations, which were driven by some of the mechanical properties, were presented. The results were as follows: CP2 had high RT values with twisting of covering yarn. CP2 also had high B, 2HB values because of higher linear density. SMD was affected rather by twisting of covering yarn than by fine hair of the cotton surface. Twisting of covering yarn made it decreasing T value and increasing W value. Dressmaking 3D CAD simulations showed that there are buckling effects on CP2 because of high bending rigidity and shear rigidity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.181-199
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• 1999

The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.68-77
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• 2005

A characteristic of subtropical zones region MK-T2 compares with an gaeryangppong, and the 9-10 schedule the times when a leaf blooms to are fast, and ratio that a branch edge by the colds becomes lean showed 5.7%, and a growth of the new branch which went out delivers 67.2 cm, mulberry loaves of the new branch which went out, and 18.6, a form of a leaf is the 1.10 that length of a leaf grew more a bit than width of a leaf up. Thickness of a leaf is $228.2{\mu}m$, and an area is more similar than gaeryangppong as $225.6cm^2$. in plant taxonomy, the hair whom the style exists short with 0.7 mm, and go to the pistil head inside so as to be rare is distributed, and belong to Dolichostylae Pubescentes. The new branch cutting which executed without remedy processes was independent of a thickness of a case branch, and the form and 100% root was said, and an gaeryangppong compared with the fact that 10% root went out of 15 mm ideal, and was excellent very, and looked, a root went out a root the soil and water, all showed a characteristic to go out at central of a branch bases at 45% ratio. Length was 24.6 mm, and were water rate 78.8%, and mulberry of MK-T2 was carrying together sweetness and acidity to pH 4.7 while, besides, arrival was 19.21 Brix%. A larva period and pupa ratio, cocoon thickness ratio are almost similar to gaeryangppong, or weight of one cocoon, cocoon thickness, 20,002 cocoon quantity shows some results to drop, and be soft of a leaf, and feed value certifications are comparatively top-ranking. As a result of having analyzed amino acid of the 3rd day of 5th silkworm larva which bred to MK-T2, a collation absorbing an gaeryangppong went, and looked, but compared with a collation in case of tests to eat MK-T2, and looked, and the lie collations were not detected a difference at Leu, but MK-T2 tests were detected mutual almost similar amino acid creation. medical efficacy of the 3rd day of 5th silkworm larva ethanol extract which bred to MK-T2 and black results, histologic a case did not appear at HE dyeing about the kidney organization which extracted form the rats which ate a silkworm ethanol extract and dyeing all chemical organization immunity, and one step protein revelation became lower with almost unidentified levels.