• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.79-90
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• 2000

On the beginning of 21C, in which it is a facing problem that the expansive image of future in fashion should be proposed from the comprehensive analysis for the fashion trend. Therefore, in this study, the trends of capricious fashion are distinctly quantified by investigating the cue of fashion in each styles. Also, the systematic evaluation is carried out of analyzing photographs to which the four important fashion styles. In particular, this study takes the practical and numerical results through quantitative analysis by statistical treatment as well as through qualitative analysis that has been formerly used in the other studies. The purposes of this study are to examine fashion trends expressed in important styles in the 1990s, and to formulate productive fashion of the future. In the qualitative analysis, the four important fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportive-casual and techos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s A/W. It takes frequency, percentage, $x^2$-test and etc, by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the A/W fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. The results of this study are summarized as follows: (1) In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. (2) 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special make-up. (3) 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. (4) 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.71-83
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to analyze the present fashion phenomenon by considering the types of street fashion, the center of avant-grade modern fashion, that shows the origination background and special feature concretely. The times was defined through the 1980's from World War II that street style originated, so the range of study was the 1990's when the street style was influenced by that of the past and was revived. The ways of study were to analyze the records of ideology, art and music connected with the street style from World War II to the present when it has risen. The summary of result is as follows. (1) In the 1940's, Zooties was the jet of desire suppressed by African-Americans that couldn't receive favors socially and economically and Hipsters pursued reformative bebop that made up of soft Jazz. In the 1950's, Modernists were running after Cool Jazz to the minimum. In the 1970's, Funk appered in the sexual desire and erotic strength, and was surfaced from Negro Getto. In the 1980's B-boys & Flygirls showed the street style by the scribble art of slum in the New York. As mentioned above, In the 1990's, Acid Jazz influenced by the Jazz of Negro has been the fashion added to the tradition of musical form that come from eclecticism of Jazz tended Neo-Jazz. (2) In the 1940's, Western style dreamed the country life because of rapid urbanization. In the 1950's, Beat obtained the feeling of liberation from the dissolute life and activity. In the 1960's, Psychedelics showed the freedom affected by the Pop-art and Op-art, and Hippies pursued the true individuality as 'love & peace' life style and the return to nature. In the 1990's, Grunge look influenced by the above has been fashion that shows the practical use of second-hand clothing or patchwork contrary to elitism. (3) In the 1940's, Caribbean style appered in the typical textile color with the center of West Indies. In the 1960's, Rude boys showed the magnificence and difficulty of Jamaica, and Rastafarians had a tendency to come back to the ancient civilization of America. In the 1970's, Two-tone was the simple clothing for harmonizing among human races. In the 1990's, Jamaica look influenced by the above has been the Lege fashion introduced to a high fashion, appearing in the special bright color, applique, unique hair style, and so on. (4) In the 1950's, Sufers pursued natural rhythm, getting out of everything. In the 1970' s, Skaters enjoyed the speed on the paved road. In the 1980's, Casuals emphasized the spirit of cooperation of young-things. In the 1990's, Casual look Influenced by the above has been the fashion that forms the activity, function and strong spirit of cooperation by pursuing comfortable life and sports in the tension of life and variety of modern society. (5) It was hard for Bikers to adjust themselves in society after the war. In the 1950's, Coffee bar cowboys were the reckless running boys in the leather jacket. In the 1960's, Rockers created the group originality as disobedient outsiders and Greasers imitated Rolling Stones. In the 1980's, Punks resisted the viewpoint of the old generation in offensive fashion. In the 1990's, Cyberpunk influenced by the above has pursued the classless structure, electronic music and metallic clothing that forebodes gloomily as the computer generation of ultra-modern science times. Accordingly, in understanding a complex modern fashion phenomenon, it was analyzed that the street styles of the past, from World War II to the 1980's, were reflected in that of the 1990's dividing into the five types in a word, namely Acid Jazz, Grunge look, Jamaica look, Casual look and Cyberpunk.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.108-108
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• 1995

This study, on the American hippies and their fashion, is composed of an examination of the following; the social and cultural circumstances of America in the late 1960's, the charac? teristics of the hippies that appeared in the midst of the foresaid background, how those factors materialized in the hippies' distinctive fashion and how they influenced tahion to come. The hippies were composed of the young generation that revolted against all general conventional values of American society and seceded from it, seeking for the ideas of love and freedom. They expressed their newly defined culture-rock music based on drug culture, psychedelic art, rejection of an established society and ethnic tastes that sprang up from nostalgia concerning nature-by means of their own distinctive fashion. And as a revival of the hippies' fashion, neo-hippie and grunge fashions newly appeared in the F /W season of 1992 and afterwards, adding fresher and more abundant sensibility to the original image and layered look of the hippies. The hippies' fashion has not only played a significant part in modem fashion history but will continue to exert its influence in the 1990's as the hippies generation are presently the center of American culture and leaders of world culture. In conclusion, various sorts of "individ- uality" and "the pleasure in the wearing itself" expressed by the original layering of the hippies' fashion presents new promise in the coming development at fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.278-286
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• 1995

This study, on the American hippies and their fashion, is composed of an examination of the following; the social and cultural circumstances of America in the late 1960's, the charac\ulcorner teristics of the hippies that appeared in the midst of the foresaid background, how those factors materialized in the hippies' distinctive fashion and how they influenced tahion to come. The hippies were composed of the young generation that revolted against all general conventional values of American society and seceded from it, seeking for the ideas of love and freedom. They expressed their newly defined culture-rock music based on drug culture, psychedelic art, rejection of an established society and ethnic tastes that sprang up from nostalgia concerning nature-by means of their own distinctive fashion. And as a revival of the hippies' fashion, neo-hippie and grunge fashions newly appeared in the F /W season of 1992 and afterwards, adding fresher and more abundant sensibility to the original image and layered look of the hippies. The hippies' fashion has not only played a significant part in modem fashion history but will continue to exert its influence in the 1990's as the hippies generation are presently the center of American culture and leaders of world culture. In conclusion, various sorts of "individ- uality" and "the pleasure in the wearing itself" expressed by the original layering of the hippies' fashion presents new promise in the coming development at fashion.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to examine the rise of hip-hop culture and its characteristics which have been established as a part of popular culture amid other subcultures and to examine the overall concept of hip-hop fashion which has been developing since its rise in the 1970s and particularly to examine the hip-hop after the turn of the new century when it has gone through several iterations and changes while simultaneously accommodating different trends and reflecting a highly diverse larger culture. The research methodology is a literature-based research that uses classification and analysis based on the preceding research including related books and dissertations and, considering that this research focuses on the characteristics of hip-hop from the 2000s to the present, mainstream news media such as newspapers and magazines around New York images of famous hip-hop culture & stores websites were used in this research. The most characteristic hip-hop fashions since the 2000s examined by this research comprise prep-hop, slim formal suits, skurban, hip-hop Goth, and hip-hop Tatto. First, prep-hop is a mixed match of a preppy look with latest hip-hop sentiments and hip-hop styles. Second, there are slim formal suits that reflect a change of trends that strongly show changes of hip-hop fashion consumers who have been following sports stars' fashions. Third, skurban is a hip-hop fashion combined with the look of skaters. Fourth, hip-hop Goth is what emphasizes strong Goth images such as grunge, skull, and devil in hip-hop fashions based on vintage fashion. Fifth, hip-hop Tatto style designs have appeared in diverse items such as trendy clothes and accessories that were most popular since the 2000s. Hip-hop fashion since the 2000s up to the present is beginning to be integrated with diverse other cultures and its most prominent characteristics is a change into slimmer silhouette.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.133-146
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fusion phenomenon that appears in contemporary women's denim fashion in order to find a way to come up with a creative denim design. The methodology of this study is to research documents related to fusion phenomena and consider precedent studies to establish a criteria for analyzing fusion phenomena. The results are as follows: First, fusion phenomena in modern women's denim can be categorized into fusion of time, fusion of space, fusion of gender, fusion of culture, and fusion of genre. Fusion of time appears as fusion with the past and fusion with the future. Fusion of space appears as fusion with Asia and fusion with other regions. Fusion of gender appears as unisex, androgynous, and genderless. Fusion of culture appears as fusion with subcultures such as grunge, kidult, lingerie, hippy look, hip hop fashion, etc. Finally, fusion of genre appears as fusion of materials, fusion of style, and fusion of circumstances. Second, when analyzing the frequency of appearance for fusion phenomena, fusion of culture appeared with a frequency of 29.7%, followed by fusion of genre with 19.1%, fusion of time with 10.5%, fusion of gender with 9.9%, and fusion of space with 8.5%. When analyzing the most frequently appearing fusion phenomena by year, fusion of culture appeared the most from the year 2000 to 2004, fusion of space and time in 2005, fusion of genre from 2006 to 2007, fusion of culture again in 2008 and 2009, and once more fusion of genre appeared the most in 2010.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.183-203
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• 2007

This study aims at providing useful fundamental information to re-establish the theories of modern fashion by examining the origination and genealogy of street style. The street styles focusing on caucasoid have a variety of genealogies such as western type, beat, teddy boy, hippie, skinhead, punk, neuron-mantic, indie kid, riot grrrl, grunge and techno cyber punk. In the same period, on the contrary, the streets styles focusing on negroid are zootie, hipster, modernist, rude boy, two-tone, rastafarian, funky, B-boy, fly girl, raggamuffine, bhangra, and acid jazz, which are seen as the culture of the large cities formed along Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean sea like England, America and Jamaica. These have root as the main fashion in western society. Ironically, most of the subculture concentrated on the whites were racists. Because of such a reason, the street styles have been formed as resistance culture that was unable to sympathize with their society and characteristics by distinguishing the whites and the colored people. Zootie or hipster that is one of the street fashion styles was formed in the 1940-50s, while the colored people who lived in the west Indies migrated to England or America. As a minimal modernist style called Ivy look in US, in that time, anti-culture formed by teenagers in whitey, teddy boy and mods fashion can be strictly different from the zootie and hipster. The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, the street styles of the whites were mostly the skinhead or hippie. Most of them were racists toward the colored people. The punk type on shown on the whites focused on luxury and exaggerative costume. On the contrary, the funky style of the colored people focused on aggressive nihilism and form. With B-boy, fly girl, reggae, rap music, and break dancing in the 1980s, the subculture gradually told on the high fashion as well as the culture between the whites and the colored people. From such aspects, the colored people tried to maintain their unique traditional characteristics. However, their individual values surged by the coming young generation excluded the colored people's characteristic street styles. Focusing on gender, violence and private success among their major concerns, the raga muffin style that represents multi-races and multi-cultures was formed. The jazz style in the 1990s showed cold post-modernistic eclecticism different from that of the 1940s-50s. Simultaneously, the various classes appeared their street styles by emphasizing on each personality. Now that we are living in multi-cultural society, a human race or nationalism concept is getting obscurer. There is no obvious boundary line in the differences between human race and its fashion.