• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.968-973
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• 2009

To get a variety of colors on silk fabrics with natural dyes, mordanting and combination dyeing were carried out. Gromwell, sappan wood, safflower were used as the three primary colors for combination dyeing. Metal compounds containing alum and iron were used as mordanting agents. In combination dyeing of safflower and sappan wood, safflower and gromwell, gromwell and sappan wood, various colors were obtained according to the content of dyes used. Safflower/sappan wood dyeing showed different colors between yellow red and red purple of Munsell color circle such a YR, R and RP. And safflower/gromwell dyeing showed R, RP, P and PB Munsell color circle and then gromwell/sappan wood showed R, RP and P. As the result of these experiments, wide range of colors (YR-R-RP-P-PB-B) were obtained according to various mixing portion of safflower, gromwell, sappan wood, dyebath pH and repetition dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.18-26
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• 2012

In this work, colorants extraction process from gromwell was studied for making powder form of colorants by solving the high viscosity problem of gromwell extracts. In order to do that, sugar extracted together with colorants must be pre-extracted. For sugar decomposition, gromwell roots were pretreated with various enzyme solutions. The total sugar content of pre-extract with enzyme solution was measured. Accordingly, the effects of enzyme type and pretreatment condition on sugar decomposition were investigated to find appropriate enzyme(amylase, hemicellulase, pectinase) and enzyme activity (100~1000unit), pre-extracted time(3~24hr). Color characteristics and dye uptake of dyed fabrics were evaluated. Gromwell colorants were assessed for their potential antimicrobial activities, which possibly expand their end use as functional pigments. The efficiency of removing sugar was increased in the order of hemicellulase, pectinase, amylase, $H_2O$. Gromwell colorants powder yield was in the range of 4.4% to 9.8% depending on pretreatment enzyme. Gromwell colorants produced RP color on the silk and wool fabrics with good dye uptake. Antimicrobial activity of gromwell colorants will greatly increase its potentiality for applying as functional natural colorants in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.7
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• pp.1081-1087
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• 2000

Gromwell colorants were extracted with methanol and dried. Four fractions were obtained by silica gel adsorption column chromatography using step-wise elution method. Relative ratio of four fraction is 1.00:0.07:0.22:0.30(Fl:F2:F3:F4) and gromwell colorants mainly consist of Fl, F3 and F4. IR analysis shows that each fraction has similar structure. Main component of gromwell extracts is acetyl derivative of naphthoquinone, and the rest are isobutyl derivative and isovaleryl derivative etc., in order. Gromwell colorants exhibit relatively good affinity to protein and polyamide fibers, but low affinity to cellulose and regenerated cellulose fibers.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.42-47
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• 2002

Antimicrobial activity of silk and cotton fabrics dyed with gromwell colorants was examined by shake flask method. The effects of bacterial reduction rate on dye uptake and mordanting were explored. The silk(K/S value 8) and cotton fabric (K/S value 4) dyed with gromwell colorants showed high bacterial reduction rate of 99 % and 88 %, respectively. Post-mordanted silk fabric increased at K/S value, also showed higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. But the effects of antimicrobial activity on mordants showed respectively different results. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric except Sn mordant increased at K/S value, but it was not significant. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric showed significantly higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. Therefore, it was considered that dye uptake of cotton fabric dyed with gromwell colorants and mordants were involved in the bacterial reduction rate. It was concluded that gromwell colorants had antimicrobial activity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.15-27
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• 2014

A natural colorant was extracted from Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica and gromwell as extractants. Studies have been made on the effects of the kind of extracts and dyeing/mordanting conditions on colorimetric changes of ramie fabrics. The color of fabrics tended to become darker as the numbers of dyeing process and mordanting process increased using three kinds of extracts. As the numbers of dyeing and mordanting increased, the ramie fabrics gradually increased to show reddish and bluish signs using Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica, and gromwell extracts(500ml and 1,000ml). In the case of 1,500ml of gromwell extracts, the ramie fabrics showed the color with more redness and yellowness. Color difference (${\Delta}E$) of dyed and mordanted fabrics increased as the numbers of dyeing and mordanting processes increased. The apparent colors of ramie fabrics using Acer ginnala were Y and GY. The Alnus japonica extracts produced Y and GY colors on ramie fabrics. With varying amount of gromwell extracts, the colors of dyed and mordanted fabrics were R, YR, GY, G, PB, P and RP, however, the main color was PB. It was concluded that the extracts of Acer ginnala, Alnus japonica and gromwell can be used as a natural dye producing black colors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.3_4
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• pp.422-430
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of the colorants from gromwell on cotton fabric were investigated. The effects of dyeing conditions on dye uptake and the effects of mordants and mordanting methods on K/S value, color change and colorfastness were explored. Gromwell colorants showed low affinity to cotton fabric, and its adsorption isotherm was Freundlich type close to Langmuir type. Therefore, it was considered that hydrogen bonding and Vander Waals force were involved in the adsorption of gromwell colorants to cotton fabric. Pre-mordanting method except Sn mordant gave higher K/S value but it was not significant. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color on cotton fabric depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed cotton fabric showed generally high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased by repeat dyeing and Fe and Sn mordanting.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.51-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to check color change depending on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics was dyed with gromwell and to investigate mordant effect when synthetic tannin was used as a mordant. First, when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell, the change of color, brightness and chroma were examined by measuring K/S value, a, b value, L value and C value depending on dyeing condition. Second, color, brightness and chroma differences which appeared after mordanting with synthetic tannin were investigated and muti-functional mordanting effect was confirmed with dyeing fastness, antibiosis. As a result of color analysis of gromwell, it was proved that the main pigment of gromwell was shikonin. Color was red purple at pH 3 when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell. But It became greenish and bluish as temperature rose and time passed by. And it grew reddish and yellowish as concentration level reached higher. The color became purple at pH 5 and purple blue at pH 7. Both at pH 5 and pH 7, it became greenish and yellowish, as temperature went up and time ran by. And it became reddish with concentration increasing. Brightness and chroma decreased with temperature and concentration increasing as well as time passing by. After mordanting with synthetic tannin, the color became less reddish at pH 3 and reddish-yellowish at pH 5 and pH 7. The brightness increased and the chroma decreased. At all pH, the color, the brightness and the chroma became similarly by synthetic tannin mordanting. Dyeing fastness of synthetic tannin mordanted fabric was higher than that of non-mordanted fabric. Especially, wet fastness at pH 3 improved from 1 grade before synthetic tannin mordanting to $3{\sim}4$ grade after tannin mordanting. Antibiosis was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.3 s.25
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• pp.25-32
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• 1987

The purpose of this study is to investigate optical behaviour of coloring matter of gromwell -extracted by water, acetic acid/methanol, and the other solvents. The results were as following: UV, VIS spectra of the solution of coloring matter of gromwell extracted by water at below $80^{\circ}C$ did not reveal in the range of the visible light wavelength and coloring matter of gromwell decomposed to blue particle at $95^{\circ}C$. The solution extracted by acetic acid/methanol was tinged with reddish purple and its spectra shifted to the longer wavelength according to increase of the solvent temperature. The color of the solution extracted by water became extinct as time went by, but that extracted by acetic acid/methanol kept up original color. In case of dried gromwell, extraction by acetic acid/methanol was easier than by water, and variation of spectra did not appear but showed hypochromic shift.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.119-123
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• 2007

Dyeing properties of soybean fabrics on gromwell colorants were studied for the effect of dyeing conditions, such as colorants concentration, temperature, time and pH on the dye uptake and effect of mordants on color change, dye uptake and various colorfastness. Antimicrobial activity of soybean fabrics dyed and sim-mordanted with gromwell colorants was examined by shake flask method. Gromwell colorants showed considerably affinity to soybean fabric and its isotherm adsorption curve was Freundlich type. Therefore, it is considered that hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals force were involved in the adsorption of gromwell colorants to soybean fabric. Soybean fabrics showed R color on Al, Cu and Sn mordant, RP color on Cr and Fe mordant, but soybean fabrics showed low dye uptake depending on mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased for Cr and Fe mordants. Staphylococcus aureus reduction rates were above 90% for Cr and Cu mordanted soybean fabrics, and the others were poor. Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rates soybean fabrics did not show reduction rate hardly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.124-132
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of silk fabric on gromwell roof colorants were studied for the effect of dyeing conditions, such as methanol ratio, colorants concentration, pH, temperature and time etc. on the dye uptake and effect of mordants and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptake. And various colorfastnesses of dyed fabrics were evaluated far practical use. Gromwell colorants showed high affinity to silk and its isotherm adsorption curve was Freundlich type close to Nernst type. Therefore, it is considered that hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals force were involved in the adsorption of cromwell colorants to silk fabric. Post-mordanting method gave higher K/S value than other methods, but it was not significantly different color values from unmordanted one. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed fabrics showed high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased for repeatedly dyed and Fe mordanted dyed fabrics.