• Title/Summary/Keyword: grading rules

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Development of Standard Sizing System and Grading Rule according to Body Types for Manufacturing Clothing of Elderly Women (노년여성의 의복제작을 위한 체형별 치수 및 그레이딩 체계에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Jeong-Yim;Joo, So-Young
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.6 no.4
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    • pp.475-484
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study was to suggest the standard sizing system and grading rules according to body types of elderly women. The data were the anthropometric measurements of 329 women aged 60 and older measured in 2001. To determine the effective and useful clothing sizing system, the distribution of hip girth and bust girth of 3 body types which were suggested in KS K 0055 was analyzed, and the significant difference among adjoining hip girth ranges was analyzed, too. And the sizes of major body parts that were used for manufacturing clothing were made to have regular interval between each clothing sizes. From this study, we certified that each different sizing system for 3 body types to manufacture more suitable clothing for elderly women was necessary and suggested the standard size for each body type. And we also suggested the patternmaking sizes that were needed to manufacture ready-made clothing. On the basis of standard size, we suggested the grading rules for 3 body types. And we verified the propriety of the grading rules for 3 body types through the fitting test, and we knew that the grading rules for 3 body types of this study was very useful to manufacture clothing for elderly women.

A study on log diameter classes of Korean softwood log (국산 침엽수 원목의 경급구분 기준에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Jung-Hwan;Kim, Kwang-Mo;Eom, Chang-Deuk;Jung, Doo-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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    • v.41 no.4
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    • pp.337-345
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    • 2013
  • Log grading rules are essential tools to ensure the quality of logs in distribution structure. The rules should reflect the long experience and accepted usage practice in the market. A gap between the rules and market should be improved based on analysis of log qualities that produced and market demand. In this study more than ten millions logs which were produced by 5 Regional Forest Services in 2010~2011 period, were analyzed in their qualities including diameters and lengths by species. A proposal was driven to improve the current log grading rules in terms of log diameter classes and length. The followings are the summary of this study. Most of domestic softwood logs are belong to small diameter class of 100~160 mm, which imply the diameter classes of current log grading rules are immoderate. Distributions of log diameter shows distinctive patterns by species, which indicate a necessity of differentiated diameter classes by species in an improved rules. Lengths of logs in productions do not corresponding to the demands and preferences in sawmills. Therefore it is highly recommended to include log length term in an improved log grading system. Based on these findings, 6 log grading systems for 3 species groups of softwood are newly proposed to improve current log grading rules. Limits of log diameter and log length are also proposed for each log grading system.

A Study on Improvement of Floor Impact Noise Section in the Housing Performance Grading Indication System (주택성능등급제도내 바닥충격음 개선방안 연구)

  • Go, Jong-Chul
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Noise and Vibration Engineering Conference
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    • 2008.11a
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    • pp.593-594
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to review and to suggest improvement concerning floor impact noise section of the housing performance grading indication system. After a result, the main improvement is to resolve the discrepancies in the rules or regulations such as design specification(standard floor system) or design performance(accredited floor system) and as-built performance like 58 dB.

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A Development of the Slacks Pattern Grading Rule for Middle-aged Abdominal Obese Women (복부비만 중년여성의 슬랙스 패턴 그레이딩에 관한 연구)

  • Lim, Ji-Young;Kim, Yang-Weon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.11 no.5
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    • pp.771-778
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    • 2009
  • There may be some problems in size fitness for ready-made-clothes purchasers with fatty body shape especially for them with abdominal obesity. The purpose of this study was to improve the wearing comfort of Middle-aged women slacks by setting grading points and developing grading rules proper to the abdominal obesity. The subjects in this study was over $25kg/m^2$ of the BMI, over 85cm of waist, and over 0.8 of WHR. A total of 176 Middle-aged women satisfyingthem were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: (1) The majority segment is 85-94 size accounting for the 11.36% of subjects. (2) The measurements on 11 size from three groups after drawing slacks pattern on them revealed that the changed values of slacks front and back on the grading point marked are differ, indicating that it is needed to apply body shape and age specific grading rule. (3) The evaluation on the appearance for wearing slacks showed relatively high score, indicating that the grading between sizes within each group was effective. The studies on the body size distribution on each obesity pattern and on the setting size system reflecting characteristics of each body shape should be performed continuously.

A Study on Grading Practices of Men's Pants in Apparel Industry (기성복 남자 바지 패턴 그레이딩에 관한 연구 -35-55세를 중심으로-)

  • Kyung, Yoon-Mi
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.6
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    • pp.934-942
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    • 2011
  • This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

A Study on the Obese Junior-High School Girls' Slacles Sizing System and Slacks Pattern Grading (비만체형 여중생의 슬랙스 치수규격 및 그레이딩 증감량 설정에 관한 연구)

  • Lim, Ji-Young
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.12 no.2
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    • pp.194-202
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    • 2010
  • There may be some problems in size fitness for ready-made-clothes purchasers with Obese body shape. The purpose of this study was to improve the wearing comfort of Junior-High School Girls' slacks by setting grading points and developing grading rules proper to the obesity. The subjects in this study was over 23 kg/m2 of the BMI. The subjects were 124 Junior-High School Girls of 12 to 14 year-old. The results of this study are as follows: (1) The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 5%, was classified 8 cases. The majority segment is 76-97 size accounting for the 11.29% of subjects. (2) The measurements on 8 size from two groups after drawing slacks pattern on them revealed that the changed values of slacks front and back on the grading point marked are differ, indicating that it is needed to apply body shape. (3) The evaluation on the appearance for wearing slacks showed relatively high score, indicating that the grading between sizes within each group was effective. The studies on the body size distribution on each obesity pattern and on the setting size system reflecting characteristics of each body shape should be performed continuously.

A Study on the Pattern and Grading Rule for Dress Shirts (드레스 셔츠 원형 설계 및 그레이딩룰에 관한 연구)

  • 황영미;이정란
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.1
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    • pp.48-59
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    • 2003
  • The purposes of this research lie in developing dress shirts pattern targeting adult males between 25-34 years of age and presenting the rules of grading according to the real circumstances of dress shirts industry. The findings of this research are as follows: 1. The surveyed companies kept different size systems ranged from 5 to 18. They kept different size systems each other, and the pattern making was conducted by modification of the collar size, chest size, etc of the pattern developed through each company's know-how. All the surveyed companies were using point method of grading. 2. The method of the research pattern was to adopt N/6+1(cm) for the width of the back of the neck. N/6 for the front neck, N/6+2 for the depth of the front neck, B/6+7 for the shoulder width, B/6+5.5 for the breast width, B/4+5 for the whole width (back), B/4+4 for the whole width (front), B/4+3.5 for the depth, AH/2+0.5 for the back arm hole, AH2+1 for the front arm hole. 3. The grading rule was made after classifying the sizes into 14 centered on the standard size 40. Through the wearing test of research grading rule, 1 found the suitability of grading size 36 and 43 satisfiable.

Dimensions, Ease, Grading Rule, and Wear Sensation for Commercial D and C Levels of Personal Protective Clothing (D와 C등급 전신 보호복의 치수, 여유분, 그레이딩 편차 및 착의 평가)

  • Sunhee Park;Soyoung Park;Eunsun Kwon;Junmo Kang;Yejin Lee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.47 no.5
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    • pp.839-852
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    • 2023
  • This study examined personal protective clothing, specifically the D (M, L, XL) and C (L, XL, 2XL) levels with high sales rates. The goal was to collect essential data for developing Korean personal protective clothing. There were eight and twelve patterns for the D-level and C-level, respectively. While the pattern dimensions were similar, the chest and waist circumferences (relaxed) were larger in the C-level, and the waist (extended), hip, upper arm circumference, and total lengths were larger in the D-level. The D-level wear sensation worked well for average-sized Koreans in their twenties, but the C-level caused discomfort in multiple areas, such as the face, arms, armpits, hips, crotch, thighs, and knee during movement. Consequently, this region required pattern adjustments and resetting for improved comfort. The grading rules were 10 cm in the chest, waist, and hip circumference, regardless of the level, with slight differences in other parts depending on the levels. Thus, manufacturers should establish new grading rules to suit the Korean body shape.

Review of Visual Grading and Allowable Stress Determination Methodologies for Domestic Softwood (국산 침엽수재의 육안 등급구분방법 및 허용응력설정에 관한 총설)

  • Kong, Jin Hyuk;Jeong, Gi Young
    • Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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    • v.43 no.1
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    • pp.25-35
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    • 2015
  • The goal of this study was to review the visual grading and allowable stress determination methodologies for the domestic softwood. Previous studies used different grading (KFRI 1995-27, KFRI 2000-39, KFRI 2007-3, KFRI 2009-1) and allowable stress determination methodologies (ASTM D 245, KS F 2152, JAS 1990). The results of the visual grading were different by each researcher. Compared to the $1^{st}$ grade proportion from the previous studies using the previous specification on visual grading (KFRI 1995-2007), a higher $1^{st}$ grade proportion was found from the studies using the current specification (KFRI 2009). Compared to the allowable stress values from the small clear sample, the higher allowable stress values from the structural size were found. The results indicated that the strength reduction factor used in small clear sample was too conservative for the different grades. To obtain consistent results for the grade, it is required to have experts in visual grading and authorized organizations. An official standard methodology for the allowable stress value determination needs to be defined for the reliable stress value.

Assignment of the Allowable Design Values for Domestic Softwood Structural Lumber - Structural I-grade - (국산 침엽수구조재의 허용응력설정에 관하여 - 1종 구조재를 중심으로 -)

  • Oh, Sei-Chang
    • Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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    • v.24 no.1
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    • pp.11-16
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    • 1996
  • The purpose of this paper is to present a summary of assignment design values according to domestic softwood structural lumber grading rules. Allowable stresses for visually graded lumber were determined from basic data on small. clear specimens. The data corrected for variability such as natural defects and other factors. The procedure adopted by Japan was used for assigning allowable design values. Strength ratios in relation to each defect were taken from ASTM D 245-81. Korean pine(Pinus koraiensis S. et Z.), Korean red pine(Pinus densiflora S. et Z.), Japanese larch(Larix leptolepis Gordon) and Needle fir(Abies holophylla Max) were applied to this study. The calculated allowable stresses were same in Korean pine and Korean red pine. These values were highest in Japanese larch lowest in Needle fir. So, it is desirable for these species to be classified into different catagories Species Group. However, accurate comparison in design values on lumber grading rules among U.S., Japan and Korea was somewhat difficult. And full scale testing will be necessary for accurate determination of the correction factors to setting up design values.

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