• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.634-640
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• 2004

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear. Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make various size pattern. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for high school boys' pants and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 217 high school boys of 16 to 18 year-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4%, was classified 8 cases. Among them, 71-92 and 71-88 size were the most frequent size and were adopted the basic size for the two types of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, 4 size's new grading-rule patterns were developed by each size. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.55 no.5
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• pp.555-566
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• 2017

This study analyzes the practical tasks and required competency for technical designers to provide basic data on the training of domestic technical designers. The survey was applied to 21 technical designers of big vendors as well as investigated tasks, task flow, important tasks, time-consuming tasks, and required competencies. The results of the study are as follows. First, the technical designers were in charge of several brands of buyers and distributors of fashion companies, or several lines of the same brand. The main production items were cut and sewn knits. Second, the flow of task and tasks were in the order of buyer comments analysis, sloper decision to matching style, sewing specification, productive sewing method research, size specification suggestion, pattern correction comments, construction decision to matching style & fabric, sample evaluations, fit approval, business e-mail writing, specification & grading confirmation, and communication with buyer. Third, five tasks (analysis of buyer comments analysis, communication with buyer, pattern correction comments, productive sewing methods research, sample evaluation) were important and time-consuming tasks. Fourth, reeducation was required in order of sewing, pattern, English, fabric, and fitting. Fifth, competencies to be a technical designers were fitting, pattern correction, size specification & grading, construction & sewing specification, sewing terms & techniques, and communication skills. In conclusion, technical designer training should focus on technology-based instruction, such as sample evaluation, fitting, pattern correction, and productive sewing methods research of cut and sewn knits.

• Journal of Biosystems Engineering
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• v.32 no.2 s.121
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• pp.130-135
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• 2007

An on-line real time grading and sorting system for dried oak mushrooms was developed for on-site application. Quality grades of the mushrooms were determined according to an industrial specification. Three dimensional visual quality features were used for the grading. A progressive color computer vision system with white LED illumination was implemented to develop an algorithm to extract external quality patterns of the dried oak mushrooms. Cap (top) and gil (stem) surface images were acquired sequentially and side image was obtained using mirror. Algorithms for extracting size, roundness, pattern and color of the cap, thickness, color of the gil and amount of rolled edge of the dried mushroom were developed. Utilizing those quality factors normal and abnormal ones were classified and normal mushrooms were further classified into 30 different grades. The sorting device was developed using microprocessor controlled electro-pneumatic system with stainless buckets. Grading accuracy was around 97% and processing time was 0.4 s in average.

• Steel and Composite Structures
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.865-875
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• 2019

The current article proposed to develop a geometrical model for the analysis and modelling of the uniaxial functionally graded structure using the higher-order displacement kinematics with and without the presence of porosity including the distribution. Additionally, the formulation is capable of modelling three different kinds of grading patterns i.e., Power-law, sigmoid and exponential distribution of the individual constituents through the thickness direction. Also, the model includes the distribution of porosity (even and uneven kind) through the panel thickness. The structural governing equation of the porous graded structure is obtained (Hamilton's principle) and solved mathematically by means of the isoparametric finite element technique. Initially, the linear frequency parameters are obtained for different geometrical configuration via own computer code. The comparison and the corresponding convergence studies are performed for the unidirectional FG structure for the validation purpose. Finally, the impact of different influencing parameters like aspect ratio (O), thickness ratio (S), curvature ratio (R/h), porosity index (λ), type of porosity (even or uneven), power-law exponent (n), boundary condition on the free vibration characteristics are obtained for the FG panel and discussed in details.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.481-490
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• 2006

Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athletes' tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is a challenging subject, which influences the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationship between the reduction rates of the basic pattern obtained from 3D human scan data and resultant clothing pressure was explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by clothing. 3D scan data were obtained using Cyberware and they were transformed into a flat pattern using software based on Runge-Kutta method. Reduction rate was examined by subjective wear test as well as objective pressure measurement. As a result, difference in the length between the original 3D body scan data and the 2D tight-fitting pattern was 0.02$\sim$0.50cm (0.05$\sim$1.06%), which was within the range of tolerable limits in making clothes. Among the five garments, the 3T-pattern was superior in terms of subjective sensation and fit. The pressure of the 3T pattern was 2$\sim$4 gf/cm2 at five locations on the body, which is almost the same or a bit higher than that of Z-pattern. In the case of tight-fitting overall garment, the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction is more critical to the subjective sensation than the course direction. It is recommended that the reduction grading rules of course direction should be larger than that of Ziegert for a better fit of tight-fitting garments. In the case of wale direction, however, reduction grading rule should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert (1988).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.839-852
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• 2023

This study examined personal protective clothing, specifically the D (M, L, XL) and C (L, XL, 2XL) levels with high sales rates. The goal was to collect essential data for developing Korean personal protective clothing. There were eight and twelve patterns for the D-level and C-level, respectively. While the pattern dimensions were similar, the chest and waist circumferences (relaxed) were larger in the C-level, and the waist (extended), hip, upper arm circumference, and total lengths were larger in the D-level. The D-level wear sensation worked well for average-sized Koreans in their twenties, but the C-level caused discomfort in multiple areas, such as the face, arms, armpits, hips, crotch, thighs, and knee during movement. Consequently, this region required pattern adjustments and resetting for improved comfort. The grading rules were 10 cm in the chest, waist, and hip circumference, regardless of the level, with slight differences in other parts depending on the levels. Thus, manufacturers should establish new grading rules to suit the Korean body shape.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1990.06b
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• pp.63-63
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• 1990

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.733-740
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• 2010

This proposal of eco-friendly Resort wear targeting medical tourists of Jeju intend to contribute to the local economy by creating more added-values and profits. With high-quality leisure outfits, the medical tourism could provide tourists more pleasantness as well as a souvenior, which may help them to cherish the memory in Jeju. Well-developed Galot leisure outfits matched with other Galot products could result in additionary buying of other Galot items. Furthermore, by developing the size system as well as pattern grading, we can help local Galot manufacturers who currently require these standardized creation system. The summary of this research is as follows: 1. we examined the current issues and disadvantages of the local Galot through a survey. 2. We defined the Galot leisure outfit for Jeju medical tourism, conducted market research, and reflected these into representative designs for them. 3. We developed a size system as well as a pattern grading to standardize the manufacturing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.3 s.28
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• pp.319-331
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• 1988

The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of women's Dooroomaky. The following results were given through utilizing the Computer in pattern making of Dooroomaky for women. 1. Computerization of the pattern making process was expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making. 2. Basic pattern was drafted by the hand-operation. In this study, this Dooroomaky basic pattern was selected. And a computer program for drafting was developed. Refer to