This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal·plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.
The purpose of the research is to reveal the process of the formation of modern church architecture in 20th century. In order to do that, neo-gothic architecture which starts in the point of view of ethic in the 19th century will be discussed first. Then the relations between Arts and Crafts Movement and church architecture which is the beginning of modern architecture movement will be revealed. After that, the purpose of Secession's church architecture which tried to separate from old architecture and the formation of background of localistic church architecture which is one of the modern church architecture will be discussed. Based on those discussions, the research in concluded the several characteristics of church architecture which makes it modern architecture. The research is focused to the portions which is related to the church architectures among the architectural conditions so complicated as to be easily confused. And also it is focused the architect those who should be mentioned in the same context and their works.
Even though Gothic architecture, one of the most technologically complex sophisticated structural systems, has been interpreted by art and architectural historians since the nineteenth century, we still cannot entirely comprehend either the medieval builder's constructional technique and structural knowledge or the meaning of Gothic architectural elements. The major reason is that contemporaneous written documentation concerning design methods and constructional techniques of medieval architecture is lacking. In 1955, the Bibliotheque Nationale in Paris exhibited the sketchbook of the thirteenth century architect Villard do Honnecourt. After the exhibition, analysis on the architectural drawings of Villard's sketchbook had reported widely. Most of analysis on Villard, however, has been on his drawing and artistic style, and there has been very little published analysis of his profession and question on the author of the sketchbook. Thus, the purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of the sketchbook and identify the artist who drew it. The sketchbook poses a number of unsolved questions. There is no doubt that several hands have contributed some drawing with appropriate captions, particularly in the section devoted to the application of practical geometry to problems of masonry and carpentry. Scholars have assumed and revealed that it was not made by only one person, and it dealt too many different fields and styles. Through this study, the sketchbook drawings consist of five different styles and person (original painter, master1, master2, master3, and the last owner), and they, not Villard, just redrew the original drawings and bound the sketchbook. Therefore, Villard de Honnecourt was just a mentor of the sketchbook and he did not participate any writing and drawing in the sketchbook.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.13
no.4
/
pp.127-138
/
2011
The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.
The purpose of this paper is to reconsider and revaluate Ste. Genevieve Library designed by Henri Labrouste as a criticism of Classicism. Considered as the epitome of the early structural Rationalism the modern historian tried to focus only on the iron structure of the library. Arguably, the structural concern was one of the ideas that the architect wanted to manifest in the library. As a rebel against a view of the Acad$\acute{e}$mie des Beaux-Art the notions of H. Labrouste were radical. He criticized an autistic Classicism with an echoing Claude Perrault's doubt about the myth of classical beauty. These radical ideas firstly showed in his report of the Grand Prix de Rome and must have been developed through several discussions for a novel: Notre-Dame de Paris by V. Hugo. 'Ceci tuera cela', one of the chapter of the novel, was generally known as the death of architecture due to the invention of the printing press around Renaissance period. We, however, consider that even though the historical background of the novel is the Gothic period the ideas, which was discussed with Labrouste, related to the death of architecture was not the architecture itself but classical architecture recomposed during Renaissance period. As the first design work the library must be reflected his ideas, which were developed, and manifested his criticism of the Classicism indirectly.
This paper aims at understanding the transformed characteristics of expressional system of Church architecture in Korean traditional style. Through the analysis of transformed forms and its meanings of those, this paper investigates the unique process of stylistic development of Korean traditional church architecture in early modern, 1900's. The method of this study is the analyse of them after the actual field surveys of Korean traditional churches, specially eclecticism churches as the HWSAN church and KUPODONG church, and the analysis of Semiology. Theory for Semantic Interpretation of artistic objects as an objects of art and architecture. Specially, the survey concentrates on the architectural elements(the form, the architectural structure, the material, the roof shape, the window, the door, the bell tower, the plan, etc) of eclecticism churches, especially those of HWASAN church and the analysis of semiology theory contains the research results which were studied by theorists as Charles Jencks, Umberto Eco and Juan Pablo Bonta. Acceding to analysis, Korean eclecticism churches have the unique transformation process and specific meaning of the spontaneous process of development. In the results of the semiological analysis of HWASAN church, it can be revealed clearly that transformed process of form리 characteristics of HWASAN church intented to formal originality of western Gothic church, but its form and meaning were based not on any simply imported western style but on existing system of Korean architecture.
As a proto-modernist work the Amsterdam Exchange has been regarded as a specimen of Structural Rationalist's architecture. Because of its ma]or steel structure, use of geometry, and reminiscence of Gothic the designer of the building was labeled by Kenneth Frampton as one of the apostles of Viollet le Duc. The architect was Hendrick Petrus Berlage. Contrary to above Nicolaus Pevsner claimed that Berlage's architectural discourse was 'Anti-Rational' because of its anachronistic formal language, Expressionism. In terms of structure Berlage's idea is rational, whilst formally 'Anti-Rational'. These polarised view points were due to the legacies of Modern Architecture that was controled by hegemonic figures in terms not only of practical field but of historiography. The hegemonic figures wanted to see Berlage as what they wanted to see. With this idea, this paper is one of endeavours to collect fragmented history in the early modern architecture. The Amsterdam Exchange has a long term story until the opening. Without understanding the story we have to withhold an evaluation of Berlage's architecture.
This is part of a study on the origin of modernist forms and settings. Forms in Modern Architecture are totally new as though they seemed to be originated from some remote culture. Archaeological studies and Laugier's primitivist attitude to the classical architecture provided a way leading, in the end, to pure structures and abstract forms. An application of the classical elements was combined with the ultimate image of nobility, simplicity and rationality. What the seventeenth and eighteenth century theorists realized in the ruines of the classical structures were not the ones with their original organic vitality but the deteriorated, naked and abstracted ones. The essence of the classical structures has been the one of the main references of the modern white architecture. Ration and Nature were the quintessential terms in the design process of the Enlightenment architects of the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as they were in the twentieth century architecture. Pure geometric and symbolic forms were new inventions for the new revolutionary age after the development of architectural Styles, successive until Baroque and Roccoco, ceased to go on to the next phase. Many of their buildings appeared so modem in character, for they were omitted all but the essential structure and decoration. Other sides of rationality in the pre-modern age were evolved in terms of the paradigmatic research and the logic in structure. Durand developed a systematic typological approach to the forms. Geometry was the basis of his designs and his illustrations resembled endless simple geometrical problems. One of the other rational approaches was mainly developed by Viollet-le-Duc. To him, Gothic architecture was the model in which each members functioned actively and exerted counterpressure and the Middle Ages invented new fantastic forms. The several ways of rational approaches in architecture were led to the 'tabula rasa' planning in modern architecture. Nature was remained untouched and not deformed as Ledoux's houses in the $H{\hat{o}}tel$ de $Th{\acute{e}}lusson$ were setted on informal gardens. It is part of the modem image that Nature flows or interpenetrates through the white prisms of the strictest classical purity and machines.
Purpose: The early churches such as tabernacle, temple and synagogue had played a important role to form space concepts of western churches. Tabernacle and temple were designed with vertical axis which consisted of sanctuary, sanctum, outdoor yard. Synagogue was designed pew of congregation around pulpit to give a sermon. The aim of this paper is to analyze spatial principles of churches designed with vertical axis and centralized plan. Method: The concept of vertical axis plan succeeded to Basilica, Romanesque and Gothic churches, and the concept of centralized plan succeeded to Byzantine and Renaissance churches. Therefore, this paper analyzed spatial characteristics and role of light in churches according to epoch, and was progressed by examining the existing researches and case studies. Result: The churches designed with vertical axis plan realized spatial composition to show the concept of domus dei, and worship space was illuminated with mysterious light. The churches designed with centralized plan realized spatial composition to show the concept of domus ecclesiae, and light created dramatic holiness in worship space.
The purpose of this paper is a study on the dome plan of S. M. del Fiore Church of F. Brunelleschi. The results of study are as follows: 1. The planning of floor, elevation and cross section plan of S. M. del Fiore church is basically planned by each other correlation. In particular, the octangular form of geometrical standard which is formed with altar as the center at the crossing part is important component elements which is decided by not only the dome, but form and size of the drum and floor plan form of the lantern 2. The dome which has been planned by F. Brunelleshi has completed the new dome, preserving gothic thought intended by the church plan after study on architecture of ancient Rome with Pantheon. And the dome which is a main space of church through all aspects of plan, structure, function and construction about the dome is a opportunity in the beginning of Renaissance architecture which is a new epoch and a turning point of architecture on various point of view. 3. The dome which is constructed by F. Brunelleshi has been planned through the innovative solution by the refusal of traditional semicircle form dome, centering use and creation double-shell structure form for the first time in history. And the construction of dome has been solved with the invention of various construction equipments and machineries, the stone rib planned for connection and reinforcement about shells of the octangular form, the support method for reduction the gravity of bricklayers work and the brick work of nock-patterned shape which is masonry construction method of the architecture of ancient Rome.
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