• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.129-143
• /
• 1997

This study is about'The Costumes of Ch'oyong dance. (namely Ch'oyong-mu-bok; 처용무복)': emphasis on its structure and change. 1 studied Akhakguebum (the book of music and dance; 낙학궤범), Eui-Gue-Do (a collection of a series of paintings showing the whole processes of the royal courtesies and ceremonies; 의궤도) and some genre painting (풍증화). 'The costumes of Ch'oyong-Dance'were composed of robe(의), pants-skirt(대) , outer-skirt (상) , scarf-string(천의·길경) , shirt(한삼) , hat with mask (사교·가면) , belt(대) and shoes (혜) . According to the position, the colours of robe(의) and pants-skirt(군) were different. What is called, it is'the Colour of Five-Position (오방색) .'The Costumes of choyong-Dance' can be divided three factors by its symbolic means; i. e. shamanism, buddhism and bureaucratism. The pants-skirt(군), outer-skirts(상), scarf · string(천의·길경) and mask are considered as shamanic factor. However, the scarf(천의) , string(길경) and patterns(만화)which are decorated with many lotus patterns enclosed with vine are considered as buddhistic factor. And the hat (사모) , robe(의) , outer-skirt(상) , belt(대) and shoes(잔) are considered as bureaucratic factor. Ch'oyong is endowed with some power by these factors, and its symbolic means became stronger and enlarged by 'the Colour of five-position'. As time goes, the forms and details of robe had been changed noticeable; sleeve-width, neck-line and patterns. The shamanic, buddhistic and bureaucratic factors are reduced. These changes were derived from the changes of Ch'oyong·Dance. On the ground of the shape of mask and round-neckline robe(단영) , someone has an opinion that Ch'oyong is an aribian. However, according to this study, Ch'oyonh is Korean traditional thing; round-neckline robe already existed and settled in Silla dynasty and Ch'oyong-mask symbolized shamanic power.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
• /
• v.11 no.8
• /
• pp.123-129
• /
• 2020

Since the artist considers the space to display the work, the artist evaluates the exhibition space after using the exhibition space. Since this can be different depending on age, career, and genre, this study analyzed the difference in exhibition hall satisfaction according to the characteristics of artists using Marketing Mix 7P. The results of the study are summarized as follows. First, the product satisfaction of 20's and oriental painting artists was high. Second, the environment satisfaction of oriental artists with 5-10 years of experience and 40 years of age was high. Third, the promotion satisfaction of more than 21 years of career and 50's was high. Fourth, the exhibition manager satisfaction of with 20's and oriental painting artists was high. the process satisfaction of 5-10 years of experience and 40 years of age and other was high.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.5 no.5
• /
• pp.481-494
• /
• 2003

The Gamrotenghwa of the Choson Dynasty is a unique genre of buddhist painting in that the destiny of the dead souls and the guidance to nirvana are expressed in reality. More than 50 of the Gamrotenghwa are known to be present, and the lower part of the paintings includes a wide assortment of folk customary scenes reflecting the social life style of the time when the painting was drawn, such as difficulties in life. public life, punishment and war. Changes in the costume of the people shown on the customary scenes of the Gamrotenghwa according to the time based changes in painting style were investigated in this study. The results are summarized in three points. First, the costumes of bureaucrats showed a tendency of preservation without any major changes in the painting. On the other hand, costumes of public and entertainer in the scenes were very close to those worn by the people at that time. The realistic description of public life in the painting may establish the value of the Gamrotenghwa as the historical documents. Second, the costume of the people in the painting showed a dual structure as the social positions; bureaucrats wore various official hats, large coats and belts to expose their social prestige. while the general public wore simple and convenient clothing which is divided into shirt and pants. The dual structure of the costume in the painting is in well accordance with that of the later period of Choson dynasty, suggesting that the customary scenes in the painting represent the social life style of the period. Finally, the customary scenes in the Gamrotenghwa are very variegated. which shows a variety of beauty of wearing even though they look coarse in a sense. The diversity of wearing beauty in the picture may contribute to the recreation of the beauty of shape in the new design of Hanbok.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.3
• /
• pp.54-68
• /
• 2006

Suhainmyuldo (樹下人物圖) is a type of picture which expresses a person under the tree and is known to be brought to the Korean Peninsula from the Middle Asia. The origin of this kind of expression is assumed to be from Iykshini (or Iygsha), the fairy of tree, in India and the 'Tree of Life' in Western Asia which influenced on the craft art design of Chinese art. However, Chinese art had already developed the motif of this kind in its unique way; for example, Jookrimchilhundo (竹林七賢圖: seven wise men in bamboo forest) in the Six Dynasty. There are only two items of female dress and its ornament from the 4th to 6th century Suhainmyuldo of the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural: one from the Jangchun Tomb No. 1 in which a female figure is portrayed as a part of living genre painting and the other from the Anahk Tomb No. 1 with seven female figures in a painting which is one of the earliest Suhainmyuldos, presumably from the 4th century. These two paintings must be considered in parallel with the origin of Suhainmyuldo. The mountain wizard's dress and Men's dress and its ornament in Suhainmyuldo from the 4th to the late 6th century Goguryeo ancient tomb is mostly joint adjust in which its collar is connected by a line and almost all the wizards are wearing Sang (upper garment). Most mountain wizards are wearing black feather shaped jackets and upper garments. One noticeable observation is that the mountain wizards of Mooyongchong, Tongu Ohgoibun Nos. 4 and 5 are completely different from one another in terms of ways to dress each wizard's official hats and shoes.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.257-287
• /
• 1996

The late period of Choson was the renaissance of the modern literature and art of the 'common-people'. Appearance of the common-people class following the emergence of such literature and art highlighted the common costume culture and evoked a fashion. The common trend of fashion of all classes at that time included a exaggerated hair style, a jacket short and tight enough to expose the breasts, a belt looking like a sensual silhouette of a woman body were expressed. Appreciating the human body could be regarded as some social advances at that age, when all the woman's clothing behaviors were restricted and controlled by the Confucian rules. Although eroticism itself is quite dependent on the basic instinct of a human being, this way of expressing eroticism had a social significance, in that women tried to be freed from the long-lasting social bondage. Therefore, the erotic mode during the late half of Choson reflected the society as well the women's repression. In addition, was the disclosure of humanity shadowed by the crusts of the hypocritical and superficial Confucian morality. It implied advances and modernity of the literature and art of the common-people at that time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.8
• /
• pp.18-31
• /
• 2011

Gianni Versace was a designer who established his unique fashion world by thinking creatively and using rich design sources. The purpose of this study is to present designers a methodology for creative and characteristic design development by searching Gianni Versace's idea source for fashion design. As a method of the study, visual and textual data were investigated for Versace's fashion and design source especially focusing on those elements that inspired him. Versace was born in the southern area of Italy in 1946. Ever since his childhood, he had a lot of experience with clothes because his mother was a dressmaker. His first collection was made in 1978, and Versace became one of the most famous fashion designers in the world within 20 years. He used a wide range of design sources such as history, culture, and art and created his design world with it. He focused on four important epochs. They were classicism, Byzantium, the eighteenth century centering on Baroque, and the 1920s and 1930s centering on Madeleine Vionnet and Madame Gres. Among cultural elements, costume design for ballet and opera and rock 'n' roll music inspired him greatly. Also, Pop art and various paintings such as Chagall's and Delaunay's had a huge effect on Versace. With these elements, he created a bold and unique coordination of style by mixing & matching history, genre, material, and style into his design. Thus he completed an extraordinary and original fashion style by emphasizing on decorative and glamorous points and changing a way of thinking.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
• /
• no.7
• /
• pp.125-163
• /
• 2009

The artworks of Socialist Realism of the former Soviet Union, with the beginning of the 21st century, are gaining a new attention from art collectors. One reason for this might consist in the fact that relevant art pieces exemplify the ways in which they visualize ideas on the basis of their high-profile art tradition and also in which they integrate their utopian ideals with mysticism. These aspects of the Soviet art goes far beyond the wide-spread assumption that their art, as a means of propaganda, principally represents a political allegiance to the system. With Stalin coming into power in the 1930s, the artistic trend of Socialist Realism obtained a nationwide sympathy and support from people, giving birth to a new art which essentially corresponded to the demands of the political power. An official art current of the USSR over the period from the 1930s to 1950s, Socialist Realism was in tandem with the Communist commitment to the party and popularity, symbolizing a loyalty to the cause. It was thus characterized by plainness and lucidity so that ordinary people could gain easy access to art. Its salient feature, over an entire range of art, was an optimistic pursuit of a utopian dream. Therefore, it tallied with the popular sentiment for a Communist paradise, giving form to their beliefs in human agency working at the materialist world and also to such abstract concepts as force, fitness, and beauty by adding even mythical ideals. Its main subject matter includes harvest feasts of collective farms, imaginary socialist cities, grand marches of heroic laborers and in this way it served as a propaganda for a sacred utopia of socialist totalitarianism. On the other end of the spectrum, however, rose the second camp of art, which put an emphasis on bona-fide artistic activities of plastic art and on an artist's personal expression and freedom, as opposed to the surface optimism of Socialist Realism. Central to the Russian Avant Garde art, which prized the above-mentioned values, were Malevich's Geometric Abstraction and A. Rodchenko's Constructivism. Furthermore, in the transitional era of the late 20th century and the 21st century it was recognized that film art or electronic media art, rather than traditional genre of paintings, would function as a more efficient way of propaganda. These new genres were made possible by ridiculing the stereotypes of the Russian lifestyle and also by ignoring ethical or professional dimensions of artworks. That is, they reinvented themselves into a sort of field art, seemingly degrading the quality of artworks and transforming them into artifacts or simulacres in the very sense of post-modernism. The advent of the new era brought about the formation and occupation of pop culture of the younger generations, calling into question the idea of art as the class-determined. It also increased the attention to field art, which extensively found way to modern art centers, galleries, and exhibition projects. It can be stated that this was a natural outcome of human nature.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.21-28
• /
• 2024

The public can access movies more easily than any other cultural genre. The film's costumes convey the social, political, and cultural climate of that time period. Additionally, it subtly conveys the message of the movie, including the intentions of the director and the characters. Filmmakers can now use fact-based materials to plan their films, and audiences can now watch costume in movies with objective standards, particularly in period dramas, thanks to the advancements in over-the-top (OTT) services. The 77th British Academy costume Award went to the movie Napoleon because of how much emphasis it placed on the outfit. Ninety-five percent of the costume was made by experts in military uniforms and costumery. In contrast to the previous aristocratic and exaggerated Rococo costume, Napoleonic clothing had a natural and common-class character. A natural-shaped Chemise dress composed of light, reflective material first appeared in the Directoire era, just after the French Revolution. Chemise dresses made of a variety of materials gained popularity during the Empire era. With Napoleon taking the throne and Josephine becoming the empress, the vibrant court culture resurfaced during the Empire era. The silk was embellished with gold thread and embroidery, train dangling forms, and different types of sleeves appeared in Empire styles. They wore Pellisse and shawls under the coat. The hair style had long, ancient hair and was adorned with fillets. They also wore straw hats, bonnets, and caps. Long gloves and parasols were also popular accessories, as were pearl or colored jewelry necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rings. During the Empire era, tiaras were fashionable. Shoes were either low-heeled pumps or sandals. The movie uses Chemise and Empire costumes, which are versatile enough to be used in a range of settings and eras. When it came to details, the type of sleeve was employed without regard to time, such as when using those from an earlier or later period. Since jewelry was worn more often than not in that era, practically every character has earrings on their necklaces. Nearly exact replicas of the coronation costume can be found in paintings by Jacques-Louis David. The red trains, Josephine's Empire dress, the crown, the Tiara, and the costumes of every character in attendance were all clearly identifiable in terms of form and color. To further aid viewers in understanding and enhancing the film's overall coherence, a scene featuring David drawing the coronation was added. Overall, there were differences in that the historical costumes were accurately recreated, the materials and details were utilized without restriction, and some of the costumes were designed with modern materials or accessories that were used more than the historical costumes. This section appears to have been written to highlight the beauty of the characters' personalities or settings. There is a limitation to this study in that it only looked at aristocratic clothing, which includes Josephine's. We will concentrate on male clothing in future research.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
• /
• v.28 no.2
• /
• pp.1-8
• /
• 2010

"Dokseoyeoga Do"(An Enjoyable Pleasure with Reading) is a work included in a collection book of both poems and works called as "Gyunggyo Myungseung Cheop"(Collections of Beautiful Scenary in the Suburb of Seoul) with a promise that a great painter Gyumjae Jung-Sun(謙齋 鄭敾) and his lifelong friend, Sacheon Lee Byung-Yeon(李秉淵) should hopefully exchange their poems and painted works. So far, general perspective of art history toward this work is either self-portrait of Gyumjae himself or genre painting of the aristocrat. The purpose of this study is to interpret in-depth meanings implied in this work with various considerations of plant elements appeared in this work. As a result of this study, We could draw newer and additional meanings beyond the existing perspectives of art history research categories, and the details can be summarized as following below. First of all, we could approach a new interpretation implying that Gyumjae and Sacheon hopefully wished their well-being, friendship, and reunion. Second, as a means of expressing this meaning, plant elements like old juniper(Juniperus chinensis L.), orchid(Orchidaceae), and peony(Paeonia lactiflora var. hortensis) were used. Third, each plant element can be literally seen as an icon implying message that Gyumjae desired to give to Sacheon. To be more detailed, experience and greenness of old juniper imply well-being of two people, and orchid implies fragrant friendship, and peony implies the feeling that Gyumjae hopefully desired to make a reunion with a parted friend. The significance of this study is that throughout old paintings, we could observe substantial examples of recognizing the meanings of plant elements in a category of traditional landscaping and utilizing them. Moreover, adding various point-of-views of many professional categories like Korean Landscaping history in the traditional painting research, we could also recognize the potentials for making rich interpretation toward implicated meanings of old paintings.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
• /
• no.7
• /
• pp.37-64
• /
• 2009

The theories of Korean Public Art originated by the artists who were against dictatorship and they associated with democratic politicians. They criticized the Fine art that were supported by the dictatorship and gave their efforts for restoration of 'resistance paintings(against dictatorship)', 'proletarian painting', 'realism painting'. In addition, they participated new social ideology(democracy) movement and demonstrated for their rights in arts. These became the main kernel the public art theory was initiated. The public artists splitted into several different parts and participated in the democratic social movement as well as the art movement for freedom. They opened various art exhibitions within different genre, diverse space for various art section such as an exhibition hall, a factories, a university, or a congregation square. Furthermore, the public art theorists published their divergent views through newspaper/broadcasting or unauthorized printed materials. Most of the public artist and the theorists kept their relationship strongly until 1985, the time when 'National Arts Association' started. In 1983 and 1984, they were clearly separated into two parts; artists(move only in art museums) and activists(move in public spaces like school, convention square etc). Their ideological separation also took out national problems. The division; professional artists and armatures, became the social issue as a social stratification matter. And in creating method, there are also other conflicts; critical realism, and public realism as well as western painting and traditional one. These kinds of separation and conflicts made different Public artists associations, under divergent names; 'Reality and Speak'(R&S), 'KwangJu Art Association', 'Durung', 'Dang(Land)', and 'Local Youth Students Association'. In addition, their ideology and pursuit toward art movements were very difference. However, the differences and conflicts weakened When the oppression of democratic education from new dictatorship(Pres. Jun, Doo Hwan) came out. In August. 1985 the government opened to the public so called, 'The draft of School stabilization law'(Hankwon Anjung Bup) to control the teachers' rights and that initiated bigger street demonstration and conflicts between police and educators. In November.1985, assembly meeting of National Arts Association in democracy opened as 'ONE' combined organization. In this presentation, I'd like to summarize the stream of art movement until 1984, and clarify the main art theories that lead the Public Art Movements in 1980s. The main theories in 1980s are crucial because they become the origin of public art theories. This presentation started with O,youn's "Hyunsil Dong In the first declaration" and explained the absent of practice in 1970s. In addition, Won, Dong Suk 's theory was mentioned as all over struggles in theories before 1980s. GA and R&S 's founding declarations in 1970s were the start of public art theorists' activities and this article reported the activities after the declarations. First, realism base on the consciousness of reality. Second, practice art democratization based on the ideology. Third, the subject of public art movement based on understanding people's social stratification structure. Fourth, the matters of national forms and creative ways in arts based on showing reality. Fifth, the strong points in arts that the practitioners accepted. About the public art theories around 1984, I discussed the dividing point of public art theories that were shown in 'generation theory', 'organization theory', and 'popularization theory' by the practitioners. The public realism theory that subjects the contradiction of reality and point out the limits of critical realism not only showing the new creative ways but also giving the feeling of solidarity to the public art activist groups. After that, public art movements expressed 'Dismentlement of Capitalism' and 'Public revolution'. In addition, the direction of public art movements were established strongly. There were various opinions and views during the start and formation of the public art theories. The foundation of theorists activities derived from the practitioners who had the concept based on stratification and nationalism. The strong trend of group division spreaded out by practitioners who opened art work together in factories, universities, squares and rural areas. Now many lively active practitioners are gone to the other field not related with arts, and others join into professional art field not public art one with unknown reason. The theorists have the same situation with the practitioners. It means to me that theory always have to be based on the practice.