• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.155-168
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• 2006

The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.29-47
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• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1042-1055
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to consider the formative characteristics of dance sports from such points of view as shapes, colors, material and decorations, and to examine artistic characteristics that are expressed through those elements. As a result, this study shows five artistic characteristics as follows; First, rhythmic characteristic is expressed with repeat of lines that is formed by pleats, shirring or gather, with duplication of ruffle's wave, with gradation of colors, with Moire-effect that is generated with overlap of see-through material, with glossy material that reflects lights to a great extent, with fringe. Second, bodily characteristic emphasizes the beauty of human bodies through direct or indirect body exposure by way of cut-and-open, see-throughness or close adhesion. Third, decorative characteristic is shown with beads, fringe, ruffle, embroidery, shirring, binding, or feather. Fourth, the beauty of female body is manifested to express eroticism, which is culminated by body exposure, body consciousness, use of illuminating or see-through material or colorful trimming. Finally, elegant characteristic is revealed through feminity, sophistication, and harmony that are expressed with black and white colors, see-through material, or bead trimmings.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.455-476
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to develop Jiangxi Nuo masks using 3D digital fashion design technology and suggest various ways to utilize traditional culture based on the characteristics of Nuo masks, a traditional Chinese artifact of intangible cultural significance. The researchers conducted a literature review to gather information about Nuo culture and masks that could represent Jiangxi. Features of the masks were analyzed and classified. The result are as follows. First, the symbolic characteristics of Jiangxi's Nuo masks can be divided into those based on their origin and history, the user's social status, and the notions of primitive beliefs of the chosen people, such as naturism and totemism. Second, Nuo masks' splendid decorations convey meanings such as luck, the bixie, longevity, wealth, and peace in the family. Third, playfulness in mask-making is about dismantling the original form of the mask, re-creating it through application. Fourth, the masks express primitiveness mostly by conserving the wood's original color or material. The initial masks carved to represent images of figures aptly deliver the primitive forms and images of Nuo culture. In this study, Nuo masks were developed and produced using the 3D digital technology CLO 3D by adopting the expressive characteristics and applying design methods such as asymmetricity, exaggeration, and modification. The results of this study demonstrate the possibility of creating diverse as well as economical designs through the reduction of production.