• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.239-245
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was for analysis of ease about basic bodice pattern, as the first step of the research process for the drawing method of basic bodice for women in their twenties. The five selected basic bodice were made and they were worn by FRP body The garment space of each bodice was measured by analysis of the garment space of each section in figure of polymerization of cross section by a 3-D measuring instrument. The research suggests that this compared analysis is an objective reference. This analysis not only of the area of cross section of garment space and ease but also of the girth of the body shape and wearing shape, using the PAD system and 3-D measuring instrument, can be helpful in making garment patterns.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.144-158
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• 2014

National Competency Standards(NCS) is to systemize the competency that is necessary for performing duties in industrial fields and to utilize synthetically duty, vocational education training, and qualification at the national level. The purpose of this study is to analyze the process of NCS development and verification, which systemizes competency units and competency unit elements through the analysis of duty in pattern field. It is to cultivate competent people to be able to promote the development of pattern industry ultimately through being a complementary to educational circles and industry then to give them practical knowledge that is demanded in the field. Furthermore, it is to be utilized as a fundamental data for reforming the system of duty competency evaluation so as to manage personnel career systematically and to improve their competency. Focus Group Interview(FGI) was adapted as the method of this study, which was proceeded 3 times, and validity of the drawn result is verified through expert questionnaire survey. Research result, which is competency units, is 10 as follows; Fit trend analysis, Analysis of sample garment Specification sheet, Pattern making for sample garment, Pattern making for manufacturing garment, Creation of sewing specification, Instruction of manufacturing technique, Sample garment Inspection for quality control, Grading, Calculation of the required material quantities, Quality control.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.360-365
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• 2000

This research is the trial for the computation of the ease-rate for the bodice pattern. The result of the analysis about the cross section figures of garment space by using a 3-D measuring instrument is that: The garment space of each bodice by each body size is definite. In the figure of cross section of the basic lines, an area of cross section of garment space and length of cross section of garment space are not increased in proportion to an area of cross section of the body. The ease rate is the same no matter that flat-rate of the body is same or different. The ease-rate is computed by length of cross section of garment space that is in proportion to the radius of the body.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1073-1081
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• 2006

The development of foundation garment pattern on the typical adult women's body was carried out. By means of the flatted body surface shell, the foundation garment pattern was developed. And its fitting test also performed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The investigated Foundation basic pattern was made by the allowing the maximum bust size without any surplus since it was based on the tight-fitted model drawing technique. The investigated the completed pattern was designed in three parts of front and back body, including bust. 2. The result showed by overlapping the torso basic pattern foundation and body surface development selected from body almost the same except for the shift of dart position. 3. The result by overlapping basic pattern 3 existing basic patterns. On the basis of top-bust line showed that the setting up the volume of dart of bust and its waist affect the appearance of model. Especially, it was found that the above result was related to the bust and under bust line. 4. The result of the wearing test of 3 existing basic patterns and basic pattern of this study revealed that the mean values of whole items were higher than average in type P and type E. The fitting & position of under-bust line and extent of wrapping bust showed the high points in the current study and type of P. The result of evaluating the whole appearance in three points(front, side, back) showed different according to the every basic foundation garment pattern.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.12-18
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• 2004

A parametric body model generation system has been developed. Using various mathematic and geometric algorithms of this system, a three-dimensionally scanned human body can be converted into a resizable body model. Once a parametric body model is formed, its size and shape can be modified instantaneously by providing appropriate anthropometric data. To facilitate the subsequent pattern arrangement process for garment drape simulation, a bounding box generation algorithm has been developed in this study. Also the model can be converted into a set of parametric surfaces that it can also be used for three-dimensional garment pattern design system.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.963-970
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.1-14
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• 2004

On the basis of garment spatial configuration technology, the correlation of fabric properties and garment modeling was studied in this paper. With abundant experimental data, practical modeling and the judgment of fabric properties and physical shape, we analyzed the change rules that restricting all kinds of parameters of fabric properties and garment modeling, and discussed the relation of wavy modeling and all correlated factors of fabric properties. The result showed the basis of choosing fabric for different style garment, which would help designers choosing fabric for modeling design or structure design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.267-276
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• 2019

This study develops 3D-printed-garment collections for a fashion show presentation. A design concept using traditional patterns that consisted of garments regarding the limitation of the printing technology was investigated in order to develop the collection. The structures of the connecting joints of the textile parts which could be easily and sturdily interconnected were invented. Wearability as garments that could be naturally worn on the human body were sought. As a result, four 3D-printed-garments were developed. The 1st garment composed of objects based on a 'Yeon-Dang-Cho'-pattern was constructed as a geometric robe style using a FDM 3D printer and transparent TPU filaments. The 2nd and 3rd 3D-printed-garments composed of an object based on a 'Boe-Sang-Hwa'-pattern was constructed as a distorted one-piece exaggerating the silhouettes of shoulders and waist parts as well as a straight asymmetric tunic style that used the same printer and material as the 1st garment. The last garment composed of an object based on a 'Boe-Sang-Hwa'-pattern printed using a SLA 3D printer and flexible-liquid-resin was constructed attaching the objects on the fabric material by the hot-press machine. The four developed garments were presented in the opening fashion show of 'the 6th International 3D-printing Korea Expo'. This study provides a basic case for related studies to adapt 3D-printing technology in textile pattern development of garment construction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.145-157
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• 1993

This study aimes to investigate the garment ease of pe-school children's clothing in accordance with arm movement. The experiment was done with 4 per-school children fro mage 3 to age 5, and 3 types of experimental clothes were made ; sleeveless, half sleeve, and long sleeve. The waist pattern and the sleeve pattern of each experimental clothes has no garment ease. And experimental clothes were examined to obtain the necessary ease of armcye line and waist lien by cross-cut method. The results of investigation can be summarized as follows ; 1. The resulting movement ranges of experimental clothes with no garment ease were 131.5°(sleeveless), 71.75°(half sleeve), and 62.25°(long sleeve). 2. The size order of cross-cut opening of waist lien movement were (side>front>back), and (half sleeve>long sleeve>sleeveless). 3. When the base point of measurement was set to armpit point by arm the latitudinal length of cross-cut opening of armcye line by arm movement was (anterior armpit part > posterior armpit part), and longitudinal length of cross-cut opening was (upper part>lower part).