• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.640-650
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• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.121-135
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• 2024

By reviewing the cultural and historical literature on persimmon juice dyeing and Galot in Korea and Japan, this study aims to show the similarities and differences between the traditional and eco-friendly persimmon juice dyeing practices of these two countries and suggest a direction for the development of modern Galot. The root of persimmon dyeing in Korea is presumed to have begun around the 13^th or 14^th century; however, no documents or records have been found to support this notion. Meanwhile, there are records of persimmon dyeing in Japan that date back to around the 10^th century, but that fact is rarely mentioned. The historical and folk cultural significance of traditional persimmon dyeing in Japan and Korea was different in terms of the use of persimmon dye and the wearing of Galot. In other words, in Korea, Galot was mainly used as work clothes for farmers and fishermen, who took advantage of the garment's functional strength, while kaki-tannin in Japan was applied to fishing tools and industrial materials. Furthermore, Japanese traditional Galot (Kakigoromo) was worn by monks. This was a remarkable difference in that the garments were used as clothing by a special class within society. There were also differences between the two countries in terms of their use of modern persimmon juice dye and Galot. Korea is currently developing and releasing a variety of modern Galots. Meanwhile, Japan is attempting to develop a feeling of relaxation by using the natural colors of Kakisibu dyeing and applying sophisticated traditional pattern printing techniques to modern Galot.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.17-31
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is to propose a modern use of traditional culture by developing creative fashion designs that combine modern and traditional styles based on an analysis of traditional costumes of women in the Tang Dynasty of China. The characteristics of the Tang Dynasty women's costume are as follows. The Tang Dynasty women's costume consists of a short coat (衫, Shan), skirt (裙, Qun), half-arm shawl (半臂, Banbi), and short embroidered cape (帔, Pei). The colors are succinct and elegant, commonly red, yellow, green and navy blue in its entirety. It may be classified by pattern that blend plant patterns, animal patterns, geometric patterns, and two or more mixed patterns. On the basis of the characteristics for traditional women's costume during the Tang Dynasty, the CLO 3D program is employed to develop digital fashion design for four pairs of 3D digital clothing and the production of two pairs of work product. The results are as follows. First, the development of fashion design reflecting the design characteristics of traditional women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty of China could be expressed as fashion design reflecting unique values while connecting tradition and modernity. Second, the 3D virtual clothing program displays an extremely important effect in design deployment and pattern arrangement by having efficiency and convenience in clothing production. The CLO 3D program is closely combined with the 2D design and 3D effect and heightened efficiency while being appropriate to realize sustainability while saving processing time and energy for the sample products. Third, the production of an actual product by facilitating the 3D virtual clothing design may lead to time savings and an effective economy and may allow for the comparison of digital fashion design and actual products as well as confirming the effects of digital fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.125-137
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• 2021

This study was intended to develop a prototype of new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece. Through this, it was intended to provide information on patterns that are fundamental to the production of new Hanbok Cheollik one piece. The pattern of the experiment was produced by modifying D pattern, which was selected as excellent in the comparison of commercial Cheollik one-piece patterns. The SPSS 26.0 program was used to analyze the appearance evaluation of patterns. As a result of the 1^st evaluation of appearance and garment pressure, the shoulder, sleeve length, skirt length and sleeve width required modification, reducing the sleeve length by 8.0cm and the sleeve width by 1.0cm in total. The length of the skirt was reduced by 5.0cm and the shoulder end point was reduced by 0.5cm on both sides to modify the shoulder width. As a result of the 2^nd evaluation, the waist area, sleeve width, and skirt wrinkles were required to be corrected, reducing 2.0 cm waist width and 1.0 cm sleeve width and removing wrinkles on the front center and side area. The final pattern was highly appreciated. In future studies, it is thought that research should be conducted through study of Cheollik one-piece pattern according to material and age and the actual wearing experiment according to fabric and age.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.141-148
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• 2012

This study investigated the structural coloration and fabric hand of the caustic reduced fabrics for emotional garment using structural color yarns, which was spun by 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers capable of producing basic colors using biomimetic technology. The colorations of the three kinds of structural color yarns were confirmed using multi angle spectro-photometer, and their triangular cross sections composed with 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers were measured using SEM and were discussed with layer length in relation with coloration and spinning conditions were also set up. The apparent color difference and reflectance of the three kinds of fabrics with different density and weave pattern were analysed as ranging from 400nm to 700nm. The optimum fabric structural design which is made by warp and weft densities(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) and caustic reduction condition by $100^{\circ}C$ temperature and 60minutes with NaOH, 20g/l solution were decided through analysis of the mechanical properties and fabric hands of these three kinds of fabrics treated with 3 kinds of the caustic reduction conditions. And it was shown that the rate of caustic reduction was increased from 13% to 23% with increasing temperature and time of caustic reduction. The extensibility, bending rigidity and shear modulus of caustic reduction treated fabrics were decreased by treatment of caustic reduction, on the other hand fabric compressibility was increased. And it was shown that the hand value of specimen number one which was treated with temperature $100^{\circ}C$ and time 60minute was the best and the hand of this fabric was better than that of Morpho $fabric^{(R)}$ made by Teijin co. Japan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.169-186
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• 1999

The objectives of the present study were to investigate the relationship between self-concept and clothing buying pattern in accordence with their self-concept. The method employed to conduct this study was normative-descriptive survey using questionnaires. Subjects were 438 high school girls in Seoul and the survery was implemented from the begining of May 1998 to the end of June 1998. The questionnaires were completed by students during class. Mean Standard Deviation Chi-Squeare and t-test were employed to analize the data gathered. The results are summarzed as follows: (1) The group who has the higher score in total positive self, self identity self satisfacton self behavior physcial self moral ethical self personal self and family self cares more about economical efficiency of clothing than the group who has the lower score. (2) The group who has the higher score in total positive self, self satisfaction personal self and family self attachs greater importance to the practical use of clothing than those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept. (3) The group who has the higher total positive self score cares originality more than the group who has the lower score when they purchase outdoor garment. (4) The group who has the lower social self score cares modesty and ostentation more than the group who scored higher in social self. (5) The group who has the higher score in positive self behavior personal self and family self cares about convenence in care and maintenance of the clothing than the group has the lower score. (6) Friends buying and use experiences of herself and the observation of other's attire are the main source of fashion information for the present Korean high school girls. The group who has the higher score in total positive self personal self family self, self identity self satisfactio self behavior used their own experiences more often as a source of fashion information than those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept. The group who has the higher score of total positive self personal self family self, self identity self satisfaction self behavior uses family members more often as a source of fashion information than those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept. The group who has the higher score in self identity and self behavior uses store displays more often than the group who scored lower. (7) Bonded processing goods stores or fancy goods shops(haberdashery) located in trendy shopping district discount stores and outlet stores of the famous manufactures are main places where Korean high school girls buy their outdoor garments. The group who has the higher score in social self, self identity and personal self uses department stores more often and rerely shops at bonded processing goods stores of fancy goods shops located in thendy shopping district compared to those who scored lower with in said categories of self concept.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.343-366
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• 1997

Most of the recently-exhumed excavat-ed costume is the garment for the dead which is one of the costume of funeral rite Investigating the birth and death years of the dead reveals that the excavated cos-tume was mostly used in the 16th and 17th centuries, . The study on the change of clothes in-cludes two aspects; one is manifestication of the structure of clothes and the other is elucidation of the constructure of clothes through examining constructure compo-nents and constructure compo-nents and construction method. This study investigates the costume of the midddle years of the Chosun dynasty in these aspects by examining the excavated Costume of 16th and 17th centries and Ryesu. This study also aims to assist to comprehend the constructure of costume by comparing actual excavated clothes with chronological standards through in-specting diverse clothes in a specified pe-riod. The construction of the clothes of the middle years of the Chosun dynasty is different depending on the purpose of theclothes and the principle of sewing is set up on the bases of mentality and body That is the Costume stands for the individual social and men-tal world of the people at that time since the external construction of the clothes represents their social rank and the inter-nal construction of sewing symbolizes their mentality. The characteristics features of the clothes of the middle years of the Chosun dy-nasty coexistence of diverse sorts and patterns indicates a change in clothes. This suggests that the clothes of a partic-ular class last and change in role corre-sponding to formation lasting and extinc-tion of the class. Thus diversityof the sort of general costume advancement of pattern and the change of clothes de-pending on the change of the class signify that the middle years of the Chosun- dy nasty is a period in which the general costume is actively developed and a turn-ing point for transforming the traditional clothes into new ones, . In other words the middle years of the Chosun dynasty is characterized as an era during which a castume native to Korea is formed with respect to the structure and constructure of clothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.202-209
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• 2018

This study examined thermo-physiological responses according to the design change of construction site working clothes (control (C) working clothes; prototype (P) working clothes). We measured rectal temperature, skin temperature, micro-climate within the clothes and sweat rate. In the evaluation of physiological functionality, based on pattern improvement in working clothes, P working clothes showed significantly lower rectal temperatures, trunk and thigh skin temperatures than C working clothes. It is preferable that rectal temperature should be kept low during work that is not favorable to an increase in body temperature. P working clothes were more physiologically functional than C working clothes. In addition, P working clothes showed significantly lower temperatures in the trunk and thigh parts in a micro climate temperature. We could explain that the side seam zipper on the pants and the gusset on armpit parts create an air permeability effect of lowering the temperature of micro-climate. Aggressive ventilation through the slit of the garment is an important factor for the restoration of the physiological function of the worker at rest between work. Sweat rate showed a higher level in C working clothes than P working clothes. When working in a hot environment, workwear needs to be designed so that the worker is not exposed to thermal stress. Therefore, it was evaluated that the P work clothes used in this study alleviated the physiological burdens of heat.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.74-87
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• 2017

The aim of this study was to analyze the features of bodice patterns modeled using a dress form that represents Korean female fashion models' body features. A controlled experiment was carried out using an existing dress form that has been frequently used in South Korea. The purpose of the study was to suggest notable findings derived from understanding the development of bodice patterns for Korean female fashion models. The comparison of features of bodice patterns from the developed and existing dress forms was carried out with consideration of the upper body features of the developed dress form, such as body angles and body cross-sectional shapes. The following results were derived from the investigations. (1) The angles of the upper and lower breast cups of the developed dress form differed to those of the existing dress form, showing a 5.0cm smaller front shoulder dart and a 3.5 larger ㎝ ㎝ front waist dart within the bodice patterns. (2) The body angle features of the developed dress form included a straighter neck and shoulder blade and more concave center back than the existing dress form, with a 2.0 reduced back neck height and a 4.8 larger back waist dart for ㎝ ㎝ the bodice back panel. The more realistic body angles of the developed dress form anticipate the improvement of garment pattern-making. (3) The altered shoulder angles resulted in an increased size of the back shoulder dart and a decreased size of the front shoulder height within the bodice patterns. (4) The increased rate of curvature of cross-sectional shapes on the bust and waist circumferences of the developed dress form resulted in an increase in the sizes of the front and back waist darts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.193-202
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to find out effects of textile motifs and the application methods on wearer's image perception. A survey was conducted to total of 255 male and female university students who are residing in Daejeon and Chungnam province. The stimuli were composed of 2 level tones(dark and light), 3 level complexity(simple, medial and complex), 3 patterns(polka dot, stripe and check) and the 2 way of stimuli application methods(fabric and garment). The instrument for measuring preference of stimuli consisted of 4 items, encouraging, preference, purchasing and popularity. The instrument for measuring image of stimuli consisted 24 pair items. Factor analysis for the adjective pair images(24 inquiries) about the textile patterns which were used in this study was performed. It resulted as three factors which are attraction, salience, and potential. Attraction, salience, and potency dimensions showed the most significant interaction effects of application methods and patterns. And tone and application method effected attraction and salience, tones and patterns effected attraction, tones and complex effected salience. Application methods and patterns effected potential and patterns and complex effected salience. The preferences toward stimuli, it resulted only interaction of tones and patterns affected the preferences('total preference' and 'purchasing'). Pearson's product-moment correlation analysis carried out to find out the relation of images of clothing and preferences. As a result, salience was significant relation with attraction and potency. In correlation between image of textile pattern and preference, attraction is most significant relation with the preference. The results of the study could be used for the marketing strategies of the motif in fashion product.