• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권12호
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• pp.1683-1689
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• 2006

리오셀직물은 면직물보다 강하고 습윤시 치수안정성이 높으며 우수한 드레이프성, 탁월한 광택, 소프트한 촉감 등 우수한 성능을 가지고 있어 최근 각광받고 있는 신소재 중 하나이다. 그러나 리오셀직물에 관한 연구는 섬유의 성질, 가공염색방법에 관한 것이 대부분으로, 적합한 봉제방법, 심지선정 등에 관한 연구는 찾아보기 어렵다. 이에 본 연구에서는 겉감으로 시판 리오셀직물 중 숙녀복 수트용으로 사용되고 있는 100% 텐셀직물과 65/35% 텐셀/면 혼방직물 각각에 대해 20수와 10수 모두 4종류를 선정하고 접착 심지로는 중량과 조직을 달리하는 시판 직물심지 5종류와 부직포심지 1종류를 선정하여, 리오셀 심지접착포의 접착심지와 리오셀겉감의 특성에 따른 외관적 성능과 역학적 특성을 측정한 후, 통계적 분석(t-검정, F-검정)에 의해 검정하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 1. 리오셀 심지접착포의 드레이프성과 구김회복성은 접착심지의 구조에 영향을 받고, 강연성은 접착심지의 구조와 리오셀겉감을 구성하는 실의 변수에 영향을 받는다. 2. 리오셀 신지접착포의 인장특성중 WT는 리오셀겉감을 구성하는 실의 번수와 혼용률에 영향을 받고, RT는 리오셀 겉감을 구성하는 실의 번수에 영향을 받는다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.17-26
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• 1982

This article aims to determine the interrelation among exfoliation strength, the repeated laundry number, the coefficient of friction and the cover factor about the fusible interlining produced by using different amount resin. The practicality of stiffness and warmth of the fusible interling were examined. The results are summarized as follows: 1) As a factor that affecting the exfoliation strength of fusible interlining, the coefficient of friction and the cover factor about the fusible interlining produced by using different amount resin. (2) Regardless of the weight of the resin, the exfoliation strength of fusible interlining declined gradually as the repeated laundry number increased. This tendency arises much more in the case of the filament yarn fabric than in that of the spun yarn fabric. The stability of the exfoliation strength was better, regardless of the increase of the repeated laundry number, when the weight of the weight of the resin was 10 g/$m^2$. (3) The spun yarn fabric, which has more fuzz than the filament yarn fabric, is more suitable for the fabric of fusible interlining. The smaller the cover factor difference between the face cloth and the interlining cloth, the stronger the exfoliation strength. (4) When the stability of the shape is a necessary factor in the consumption of the fusible interlining, a resin weight of 20 g/$m^2$ is the most suitable; however when stiffness and warmth are necessary factors, a resin weight of 10 g/$m^2$ is the most suitable.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.585-590
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• 2006

In the variation of physical properties of adhesive fabrics, the objective of this study is to analyze fitness of fusible interlining to four sorts of fabrics for men's suit with various structural parameters. Four fusible interlinings are used for adhering to fabrics for men's suit. Mechanical properties of these 16 adhesive fabrics fused with these interlinings are measured by KES-FB system for analysing appearance and wearing properties of garments and for examining the fitness of fusible interlining to the fabrics for men's suit. The variation of bending property for adhesive fabrics are found to be higher in the order of interlining 1(Cotton30/Rayon70, plain), interlining 2(Polyester30/Rayon70, warp knit), interlining 4(Polyester, shingosen fabrics with drawing textured yarn) and interlining 3(Polyester, double dot coating interlining). The variation of adhesive effect shows the same results with bending property and shows negative relation with extensibility in weft direction per extensibility in warp direction(EM2/EM1). The variation of peel strength of adhesive fabrics, woolen fabrics in the case of face fabrics and interlining 3 in the case of interlining shows the largest value respectively.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권7호
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• pp.15-24
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• 2002

In this work, the effect of fusible interlining on the appearance related properties and mechanical characteristics of Lyocell fabric after fusing was investigated. Two different types(20's and 10's) of Lyocell face fabric with six different interlining(by thickness and structure) for earth Lyocell fabric were examined. In order to establish the optimum fusing condition for the different face fabric and interlining, peel strength of each fused fabric was measured, which was dependent on the fusing temperature, pressure, and time. The characteristics related appearance and mechanical characteristics of each fused fabric were determined. The results are as follows: The peel strength was excellent, when the fabric was fused with the force of 3kgf/$textrm{cm}^2$ at $120^{\circ}C$ for 15seconds. Flex stiffness, G, 2HG, 2HG5(shear), B, 2HB(bending) of 100% Lyocell fabric 10's were higher than those of 100% Lyocell 20's. Flex stiffness, crease recovery, G, 2HG, B, 2HB of thicker woven interlining were higher than those of thinner woven interlining. Crease recovery of twill interlining were higher than those of plain interlining. In case of shear and bending properties, however, plain interlining was higher than twill interlining. Flex stiffness, crease recovery, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB of nonwoven interlining were higher than those of woven interlining. In case of drapability, however, woven interlining was higher than nonwoven interlining.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권7호
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• pp.1193-1202
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• 2001

The goal of this research is to investigate the effect of fusible interlinings on the mechanical characteristics and appearance related values for the Lyocell fabrics. In this study, to establish optimum fusing conditions, peel strength of the fused fabrics depending on the fusing temperature, pressure and time was measured. Appearance related properties and mechanical characteristics of the fused fabrics ere determined. The reulst are as follows: In the fusing condition of $120^{\circ}C,\;3kgf/textrm{cm}^2$, 15sec, peel strength was excellent. Peel strength was excellent in the case of tencel/cotton fabric, with increasing cover factor of woven interlining, with twill and nonwoven interlining. Flex stiffness was increased in the case of tencel/cotton fabric, with increasing weight of woven interlining, with twill and nonwoven interlining. Drapability was excellent in the case of 100% tencel fabric, with decreasing weight of woven interlining, with plain and woven interlining. Crease recovery was excellent in the case of 100% tencel fabric, with increasing weight of woven interlining, with twill and woven interlining. Shear and bend properties were increased in the case of tencel/cotton fabric, with increasing weight of woven interlining, with plain and nonwoven interlining.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.648-660
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• 2009

In this research, an expert system has been developed to select optimum well-matched fusible interlinings with a face fabric. First, a database of face fabrics and fusible interlinings has been constructed. And knowledge acquisition has been performed from the previous studies about the properties of fusible interlinings and fused composites as well as fusing prsocess quality control. Then, a rule-based knowledge-base has been constructed through knowledge classification. Finally, we have constructed an inference engine with the knowledge-base. The expert system enables us to easily select optimum fusible interlinings for a face fabric considering high quality fused composites and fashion trend.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권7호
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• pp.807-815
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• 1998

Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of garment. The objective of this study is to analyse the thermal properties of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose fo this study, eight specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made by Nylon/Polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Thermal properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with 3 nonwoven interlinings are measured by KES-F7 System for analysing the thermal suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. And air permeability, which was measured by KES-F8-API, of 24 nonwoven adhesive interlining fabrics was also analysed and discussed with the various kinds of nonwoven interlinings and fabric structural parameters.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.671-683
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• 1995

This paper described the changes of mechanical KES values after fusing 4 different (in weave & density) wool face fabrics with 3 different (in weave & extensibility) fusible interlining. The fusing condition was 15$0^{\circ}C$, 4kg.f/cm2 The results of the study were as follows: (1) After fusing, KES mechanical value of B, 2HB, G, 2HGS, WC increased, where as LT, WT werent't changed so much and EM, RT decreased. It means after fusing extensibility and recovery property were decreased and volume and stiffness were increased. (2) Within the limits of this investigation, tensile property seemed to be more influenced by the characteristics of face fabrics, and bending property nil by the effect of adhesive penetration and shear and compression property did by complex of the characteristics of face fabrics and interlining and the effect of adhesive penetration.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.448-457
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• 2017

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of interlock fabrics knitted with three types of fibers (i.e., cotton, wool, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers (i.e., 10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system. We experimented with four properties and thicknesses of twelve specimens of interlining bonded knitted fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings. The results showed that the tensile property changed values (i.e., LT increased, and WT and RT decreased) according to the denier of interlinings; however, the change was slight. On the other hand, the bending property increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the wale and the course. Among shearing properties, the value of G increased as the denier of the interlining increased on both the wale and the weft; however, 2HG decreased. Additionally, changes in the compression property varied according to the fibers and the denier of the interlinings. The thickness of the knitted fabrics increased or decreased slightly by bonding the interlining. based on these results, we conclude that the 3D virtual system users need to reflect these numerical changes of interlock fabrics by bonding interlinings when they perform fitting tasks on the screen to accurately express the to accurately express the manufacturing conditions of the real garment.