• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.172-183
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.48-61
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• 2008

This study aimed to examine emo fashion, a very recent music-related fashion trend spreading fast amongst youths, and understand emo ideas and methods of expression for a greater understanding of contemporary youth sub-cultures and fashion trends. Documentary research, positive research and in-depth interviews were used throughout the study. 4 Korean emo bands and 4 U.S. emo bands were selected based on music chart rankings, and a total of 37 photographs from the bands' Internet websites were selected, and their clothes shown in the photographs were examined. 5 Korean emo band musicians were subjects of in-depth interviews, and they were asked about their emo culture, music, fashion, ideas and styles, and photographs were taken of the subjects and evaluated, too. Lastly, Korean and U.S. emo kids were studied through photographs, and comparatively analyzed. Both Korean and U.S. emo musicians wore slim silhouettes, skinny jeans, t-shirts, sneakers, black, studded belts and plastic-framed glasses. Korean fashion expressed a less depressive atmosphere with color and other details compared to the United States, and did not prefer dark black eye make-up, which United States emo style appeared to express frequently. Korean musicians' emo fashion was closer to other youth fashions, whereas U.S. emo fashion included more formal styles such as ruffled shirts and pin-striped vests. Korean emo kids wore clothes not much different from most Korean youths, but U.S. emo kids wore a lot of eye make-up and black t-shirts with graphic or skull prints, and had more geometrical hair styles, as if cut at home. The reasons for such differences were found to be a longer emo music and culture history in the United States leading to more elaborate fashion expressions and a difference in the states of mind, such as Korea pursuing to express love, and the United States pursuing loneliness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to examine the rise of hip-hop culture and its characteristics which have been established as a part of popular culture amid other subcultures and to examine the overall concept of hip-hop fashion which has been developing since its rise in the 1970s and particularly to examine the hip-hop after the turn of the new century when it has gone through several iterations and changes while simultaneously accommodating different trends and reflecting a highly diverse larger culture. The research methodology is a literature-based research that uses classification and analysis based on the preceding research including related books and dissertations and, considering that this research focuses on the characteristics of hip-hop from the 2000s to the present, mainstream news media such as newspapers and magazines around New York images of famous hip-hop culture & stores websites were used in this research. The most characteristic hip-hop fashions since the 2000s examined by this research comprise prep-hop, slim formal suits, skurban, hip-hop Goth, and hip-hop Tatto. First, prep-hop is a mixed match of a preppy look with latest hip-hop sentiments and hip-hop styles. Second, there are slim formal suits that reflect a change of trends that strongly show changes of hip-hop fashion consumers who have been following sports stars' fashions. Third, skurban is a hip-hop fashion combined with the look of skaters. Fourth, hip-hop Goth is what emphasizes strong Goth images such as grunge, skull, and devil in hip-hop fashions based on vintage fashion. Fifth, hip-hop Tatto style designs have appeared in diverse items such as trendy clothes and accessories that were most popular since the 2000s. Hip-hop fashion since the 2000s up to the present is beginning to be integrated with diverse other cultures and its most prominent characteristics is a change into slimmer silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.77-91
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the perceived facial attractiveness and appropriateness of clothing on the evaluation of task performance of target person mediated by subjects'likability toward and trait evaluation of the target person. The facial attractiveness of the female university students were used as index of physical attractiveness in this study. Three levels of facial attractiveness was manipulated based on the judgements by 30 female university students. Four types of clothes were selected perceived appropriate for two assumed situations by female university students. Three female faces having high. medium, and low attractiveness were simulated with the same body dressed four types of clothing respectively using CAD system, and a total of 12 stimulus persons were created. The design for the experiment was a $3\tiems4\times2$ randomaized factorial. with three levels of facial attractiveness(high, medium, low), and four types attire(formal-masculine, formal-feminine, casual-masculine, casual-feminine), two kinds of context (job interview, dating) in which perceptions were occurred. The subjects of this study was 524 male and female(262 of male, 262 of female) university students from 3 universities in Kwangju, Korea. The data were analysed using factor analysis. descriptive statistics, regression, path analysis. The results were as follows : 1. In bogus job interview. the direct effect of perceived facial attractiveness on task performance evaluation was .175 and the indirect effect mediated by likability and trait evaluation was .285 in path analysis model. The direct effect of perceived appropriateness of clothing on task performance evaluation was .111 and the indirect effect mediated by likability only was .0564 in pass analysis model. 2. In dating situation, the direct effect of perceived facial attractiveness on task performance evaluation was .355, the indirect effect mediated by likability and trait evaluation was .188 in path analysis model. The direct effect of perceived appropriateness of clothing on task performance evaluation was .108, the indirect effect mediated by likability and trait evaluation was .060 in Pass analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.71-86
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• 2008

The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.270-279
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to make a basic resource in developing a design satisfying male consumers＇ fashion inclination by examining the features of the men＇s fashion style shown in the fashion collections. Collected were 1,291 photos relating to the suit style through the analysis on the men＇s fashion collections for 8 years(1995-2002). Representative men＇s fashion images are extracted from these photos, then figurative features were analyzed and typified according to image, and finally representative fashion styles were presented and its meaning was analyzed. Representative men＇s fashion images are Sophisticated, Casual, Elegant, Active, Natural, Classic, Romantic, Ethnic, Military, Marine, Colonial, and Avant-garde. With the subcategories such as detailed shape of jacket and trousers, the relationship of color between upper and lower clothes, type and organizing method of material quality, type and arranging method of pattern, and coordination, the extracted fashion images were analyzed the figurative features. After finding out the common and different features, four men＇s fashion styles were suggested. Formal style maintains the typical suit style and has the feature expressing the men＇s authority, tradition, and honor. It includes Sophisticated, Elegant. and Classic image. Casual St Sporty style has the feature that there is a change in the volume of suit by adding activity to the typical suit style. It includes Casual, Active, and Natural image. Uniformed style is that political and social environment such as war has an influence on the suit design. It includes Military, Marine, and Colonial image. Deformed style has the feature that it suggests new type instead of adhering to the typical suit design. It includes Ethnic, Romantic, and Avant-garde image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.9 s.109
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• pp.127-142
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• 2006

In this study, I have analyzed Indian traditional clothing in fashion design of 21st century by comparing 1,286 fashion items designed by Indian designers and 722 Western fashion items, which were presented from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W Formal analysis were made for change in how to wear clothes, and change in items and ornaments. Change of traditional clothing was found in two ways; Western elements added to Indian tradition and Indian traditional image adopted in Western clothing. First, Indian traditional elements added to Western clothing in the formal aspect was found in 83% of Western collections and 27.2% of the Indian designers' collections. In Indian designers' collections, traditional clothing form takes 72.8%, which shows the regional characteristics of India where the traditional clothing is still adhered to in daily life especially by women. Second, from the fashion design of the Indian designers, we can find modernization of sari, change of traditional items into more active and modern way by adding Western clothing; change of form, color and material of traditional items in various ways; and decorative aspects highlighted by adding Indian traditional color, pattern or decoration into Western clothing. In most cases, Western collections are seasoned with Indian traditional image, rather than utilizing the form of Indian clothing. Although adopting the farm of Indian traditional clothing, it can be considered as a translation from the viewpoint of the West. Third, Indian look is expressed in various ways by reproducing Indian traditional ornaments such as earings, bracelets and henna, or by adopting Indian traditional fabric design and decoration in mufflers, bags and etc.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.19-33
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• 2002

In the middle of economic and mental riches in the 21st century, the importance of well being and the pursuit of happiness are emerging as the new trend. Thus the lifestyle that values comfortable and practical naturalness and intrinsic merits has come to influence the human life rather than the old showing-off and formal desire. In addition to this, the spread of the five day week has given more leisure time, which has led to the increasing interest in health and leisure. The interest in sports has skyrocketed since the successful holding of the 2002 Korea and Japan World Cup event. All these changes to the lifestyle have contributed to the fusion of luxury wear and sports wear. As the result of the consumers in the 21st century having more classified and upgraded way of living thanks to the settlement of the above-mentioned lifestyle and the enlargement of the leisure sports culture, there has appeared the wellness kin, who value the importance of life and the nature and believe in the idea that they can reconstruct the environment in the way they can enjoy their lifestyle and pursue happiness. They favor healthy fashion items and think much of exercise, nutrition, and rest. They pursue the natural and comfortable style, whose ideas came from simple exercises such as health training and yoga and the easy and comfortable look observed at resorts. Their fashion style can be divided into three of fitness fashion, yoga fashion and resort fashion. First, the boxer fashion is characterized by the relaxing design and practicality. The major items of the fashion include running shirt-styled upper clothes, training pants, hooded shirts and sneakers. Simple and comfortable look should be induced from the combination of the items. Second, the yoga fashion was motivated by the comfortable yoga wear. It advocates stress-free spirit and comfortable and stable naturalism. Along with the advantages of the good feeling to wear and the functionality to help exercise better, the yoga fashion gives the wearer enough room to move around in, using the unique lines. Third, the resort wear refers to the kinds of clothes you tend to wear at the beach and the park. There are various kinds of the resort look; bathing suits, the beach wear you can wear with the bathing suit, the resort evening wear, the full-side look that you try on top of the bathing suit and is made of the same material of the bathing suit, and the marine look, the symbol of the summer. In short, the study attempted to investigate many trends occurring as the result of human recent increasing interest and concern in the quality of life, and the impacts of them on the fashion world. This kind of research that examines the background of the times and society will help to grasp with the fashion trends of the present and the future. And more studies should be conducted on the development of new and original design in clothes fashion, which reflects the characteristics identified in this kind of research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.547-560
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to segment Chinese career women by experience in purchasing Korean clothing and to analyze and compare clothing purchasing behavior between the 2 groups and to provide useful information to Korean manufacturers for establishment of marketing strategies for China. The subjects were 602 career women of middle and high class In their 20's and 30's. A total of 602 questionnaires were analyzed by using frequency, mean, Cronbach's $\alpha$, factor analysis, t-test and $X^2$-analysis. The results were as follows: 1. The demographic variables such as an age, residential city, marriage, and total monthly income were proven to be significantly different between the 2 groups except an academic background. 2. The clothing purchase behavior variables such as purchasing motive, using informants, clothing selection standards, store selection standards, purchasing place, satisfaction after purchasing clothes, shopping time, average monthly expenditure on clothing, purchasing frequency of casual wear, purchasing price, and paying method were proven to be significantly different between the 2 groups. However, the clothing purchase behavior variables such as purchasing frequency of formal wear and purchasing price of fur coat and sweater were proven not to be significantly different between the 2 groups.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.13-26
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the preference of design and body shape for korean baby-boom generation women. For this study, in-depth interviews were carried out to 11 women who were born in 1955~1963. They are called korean baby-boom generation. The results were as follows; 1) Korean baby-boom generation women care to their body shape, and they make much of the balance of body, not just looking slim. 2) Korean baby-boom generation women become more interested in their clothing, and they want to look with casual image than elegant image before. But overweight women preferred elegant image. 3) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer mix-match style for everyday clothes, but they prefer suit-set for formal wear. 4) When Korean baby-boom generation women choose of jacket or coat color, they consider more of their body-shape than season color. 5) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer plain style and jacquard with metal yarn. 6) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer out-door cloth fabric, at special time, they choose pure wool and pure silk. At ordinary time, they like more comfortable fabric like cotton mixed spandex or wool mixed spandex blends.