• International Journal of Knowledge Content Development & Technology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.37-49
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• 2012

This research aims to perform a contextual study of the wedding customs, wedding procedures, and wedding costumes included in Korean traditional wedding culture, making use of cultural contents which form cultural archetypes. The range of wedding customs studied are set limits from the Joseon dynasty to ancient times, and, for wedding procedures and costumes, to the Chosun dynasty, when a wedding ceremony became the norm. Only wedding ceremonies performed among ordinary classes are included as subjects for this research; wedding ceremonies and costumes for court are excluded. The cultural archetypes developed within these boundaries suggest prior cultural content, developed beforehand. The research methods are focused on document records inquiry and genre paintings during the Joseon era, using museum resources as visual materials. The following is the outcome of this research: Firstly, wedding customs and procedures observed among folk materials are presented in chronological order. Secondly, the brides' and grooms' wedding costumes are also presented chronologically, differentiated by class-characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.579-596
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• 2011

As a sport with artistic characteristics, figure skating draws upon important elements such as costumes, music, melody interpretation, and choreography. The combination of figure skating music and costume is an important influence on scoring, moreover, it forms some images and characteristics of the athlete. The purpose of this study is to consider and analyze the correlation between figure skating music and costumes. The study mostly focuses on the main international competitions from 2008 to 2010, such as the Winter World Figure Skating Championships, Four Continents Figure Skating Championships, Grand Prix of Figure Skating Final and gala shows of a single female and male and female pairs, ice dances of the medalists. The concepts and characteristics of figure skating music were examined collected the literature quotes internet sites, photos and video, clips through the homepage and internet sites. Focusing on the medalists of the main international competitions from 2008 to 2010, following the analysis results of figure skating by genre of music, the differences among classical music, pop music, movie music, musical music, folk music have been classified, and according to the features of music genres, the differences of items, colors, details and accessories of clothing were brought out. Depending on the features of music genres, figure skating costumes have been changed of items, colors, materials, details and accessories. Thus, the close correlation between the story of figure skating music and atmosphere has been analyzed. This study contributes to improve the completion of programs which is completed through the development of figure skating costumes design that is regarded specially for the artistic value.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.481-494
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• 2003

The Gamrotenghwa of the Choson Dynasty is a unique genre of buddhist painting in that the destiny of the dead souls and the guidance to nirvana are expressed in reality. More than 50 of the Gamrotenghwa are known to be present, and the lower part of the paintings includes a wide assortment of folk customary scenes reflecting the social life style of the time when the painting was drawn, such as difficulties in life. public life, punishment and war. Changes in the costume of the people shown on the customary scenes of the Gamrotenghwa according to the time based changes in painting style were investigated in this study. The results are summarized in three points. First, the costumes of bureaucrats showed a tendency of preservation without any major changes in the painting. On the other hand, costumes of public and entertainer in the scenes were very close to those worn by the people at that time. The realistic description of public life in the painting may establish the value of the Gamrotenghwa as the historical documents. Second, the costume of the people in the painting showed a dual structure as the social positions; bureaucrats wore various official hats, large coats and belts to expose their social prestige. while the general public wore simple and convenient clothing which is divided into shirt and pants. The dual structure of the costume in the painting is in well accordance with that of the later period of Choson dynasty, suggesting that the customary scenes in the painting represent the social life style of the period. Finally, the customary scenes in the Gamrotenghwa are very variegated. which shows a variety of beauty of wearing even though they look coarse in a sense. The diversity of wearing beauty in the picture may contribute to the recreation of the beauty of shape in the new design of Hanbok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.112-126
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• 2012

The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.38-52
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to confirm the international unique color sensibility according to the ethnic color preferences. The existing studies about color sensibility were investigated to analyze the international color sensibility. The countries were chosen according to its, strong regional and racial color. Also, the documents and websites about environment color such as structure color, natural feature color, traditional folk costume color and customary color names were investigated, and then, the international color sensibility was analyzed by using the color image scale. As a result of the analysis about the differences of color sensibility, internationally distinguished color sensibility was discovered. There were differences not only for the preference trend of hue but also for the tone or contrast of color among the selected countries. Especially, Great Britain had a strong preference for G categories that they preferred the warm-grayish color image. Russia has a preference for R, G, and B categories with the preference for the warm-clear image. Netherlands had a preference for R, Y, and PB categories and it preferred the cool-hard-grayish, warm-soft-clear image. Italy had a preference for R and Y categories and it preferred the warm-clear image. Morocco had a preference for R and B categories and it preferred the warm and cool, clear image. Japan had a preference for R, G categories and it preferred the warm-grayish image. Korea had a preference for R and B categories and it preferred the warm-soft-clear, and cool-clear image. With these results, the researcher concludes that the integrated analysis of the environment color and the traditional racial color factors are very persuasive methods to comprehend the international color sensibility.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.111-124
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• 2015

This study inferred the symbolism of shaman's costume in China from shamanism and types of shaman's costume in Naje, Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong, China through field survey. Shamanism in China has complicated aspects due to negotiations with other culture for a long time while maintaining its own consistency based on ethnicity. Symbolism of shaman's costume in Naje, Guiju-seong, China is observed as follows. First, the shaman's costume in China appears differently from every Jangcha in relation to the position of god appearing in Jangcha when Tolosa takes the position of god as a symbol of sex and god. In Naje of China, the most important shaman's costume indicating the position of god has a unique mask for every deity. It communicates that Tolosa wearing a costume appropriate for the god of wine shall become the god in that Jangcha. Second, the shaman's costume in China has something to do with Yin-Yang and the five elements theory of Taoism as a symbol of shamanism visio of the universe and system of reason. Most of Tolosas hosting Naje are men but dress up as women by wearing Nagun looking like a skirt. Nagun is usually red, the color of Yang, which symbolizes that by wearing such costume that takes color of Yang, Tolosa expels an ominous thing by balancing yin and yang and taking god's strong power. Third, Tolosa takes an eight-breadth Nagun, as a symbol of people. An eight-breadth worn by Tolosa in Naje strengthens the spirit of union and fight of the Tujia nationality who live in Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong through folk legends. In this course, a symbolic meaning of the national spirit has been provided on an eight-breadth Nagun, a shaman's costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2018

This study focuses on the correlation between Kotgal and paper-folding. This paper first examines the meaning and history of Korean ancient Kotgal and then investigates relationship between Kotgal and Korean paper-folding culture which has been inherited in various ways. Throughout the study, literature research and analysis have been conducted along with empirical studies. The results of the study are as follows. First, it has been told that Kotgal was used a as a trident hat symbolizing the sky, land, and man, whereas Korean paper-folding is known as closely related to the folk beliefs which had existed since ancient times. From ancient times, the Korean ancestors expressed the Three Gods representing beauties of the nature, 'sky(Chun), land(Ji) and man(In)' on the conical hat and prayed for their wish to the heaven. Second, Kotgal has been evolved in various ways from ancient times through Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty to present. The form of Kotgal has begun with folding and this is closely related to the origin of Korean paper-folding, which is the Korean traditional craft. Third, the paper-folding tradition of Korea has been variously applied in the Korean culture such as rituals, life crafts and plays and expresses the unconventional philosophical concepts unique of Korea. In conclusion, this study evidently shows that the Korean philosophical ideas behind Kotgal which originated from ancient paper-folding are scientific and systematic.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.1-20
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristic of modern Tap dance costume according to its origin and kinds. For this purpose, the study explored the review of literature focusing on the historical back ground of Tap dance and investigated into the kinds of modern tap dance and the formative feature of the tap dance costume. Costumes of leading tap dancers in representative performances and movies are analyzed. The results are summarized as follows: The kinds of current tap dance could be categorized as three types of Jazz Tap Dance, Rhythm & Funk Tap Dance, Irish tap Dance as their development origin. The Tap dance widely distributed through the U.S. Hollywood movie, The Jazz Tap Dance costume was composed of magnificent and luxurious design applying the high fashion of the 1930s and 1950s in the male and female costumes. The U.S. Blacks' tap dance, Rhythm & Funk Tap costume had a close relation with resistant blacks' culture, and showing the type of free dressing not bound by previous tap dance dress. The Irish Tap Dance originated from Irish folk dance displayed the tap dance embroidered costume using the Irish traditional pattern. This study systemized the characteristic of the tap dance costume by kind, and explored the dress revealed at the tap dance as a symbolic system to the cultural zone where the dance is made.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.67-89
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• 1997

During thousands of years the people of china have not only created the brilliant cul-ture with a world reputation but also brought about an abundant treasury of paramountly beautiful hairdo fashions beyond comparison. Hair styles are an important symbol of the ma-terial and cultural civilization of a certain his-torical period. In Dang Dynasty the country was unified the economy was properous and the political situation was relatively stable. These spelt the solid foundation on which the rich and colourful varieties in the hair styles of women emerged. The numerous hair fashions in Tang Dynasty woman folk could be summed up into three catagories-high bun hanging bun and flat bun. Of course like the garments hair fashions are also the marks for the social status of the women in the feudal society. The hairstyle of the women of the Song Dynasty still followed the fashion of the later period of the Tang Dynasty the high bun be-ing the favoured style. To dress this type of high bun switches were generally used sometimes fashioned in to switch buns of various shapes coiled directly on top of the head. Women from rich families however usually had hairpins and combs made into the shape of flowers birds phoenixes of butterflies to be pinned on top of the buns.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• no.6
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• pp.38-44
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• 1995

The purpose of this paper is to show that a shape pro-duced by natural factors such as weather, environments, etc., can be introduced into the emotion of a design, and to make a design process by planning a Korean image and characterizing its concept. Human beings, nature, man-made objects, and society have their own functions in an environmental structure. When all their functions are kept in working order, human beings come to discover orderliness out of which they can absorb pleasure. They cannot look into their own inside but they can trace back in their memories a variety of panoramic experiences which have been embed-ded onto their identity during their lifetime interactions with an empirical world. Children first acquire a way of cognition in the space, a comprehensive premise, connecting a specific place and an object of cognition. Such subconsciousness forms sky-lines of mountains, seas, and trees under the sky, and produces axis lines and beehived domes under the influ-ence of natural, cultural, and social factors, forming a folk culture. A subconscious composition of existential space is extended. A subconscious composition of existential space is extended to the areas of environmental design, product design, and fashion design. The development of a concept of place and space as a system is a necessary condition for discovering an existential foothold.